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Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-14-2015, 8:26 PM
Hi, I have a 50 watt Chinese laser. Haven't had it very long. Today I was burning some things, then all of a sudden....no laser. Like no power to laser. Power supply fan and light working. I'm wondering about the water sensor. I have the brass and silver red cap kind. I'm wondering if maybe it quit working and this shut me down. Would the power supply still be fired up if so? And could I cross the two wires to bypass it to see if that is indeed the problem? Any help would be appreciated...doubt I'll get much from the company I bought it from... Not much luck with that so far.... Anyway any help/suggestions would be appreciated... This is my livliehood... we don't have a lot of money so I can't just go out and buy parts willy nilly to see what works... Please help.
Thanks

Chris Corwin
01-14-2015, 8:51 PM
Time to get the screwdriver out and start tightening the screw terminals on your laser power supply. Just unplug the power from the wall and wait 45 min for the power to drain from the internal capacitors before you try it.

Dave Sheldrake
01-14-2015, 9:37 PM
Hiya Jeff,

The water sensor on Chinese machines are a normally open switch, just bridge them.

Have a look on the PSU to see if there is a test button, that bypasses everything and with the control card unplugged will fire the tube no matter what interlocks or pad problems there may be

Chris Corwin
01-14-2015, 10:12 PM
Hiya Jeff, The water sensor on Chinese machines are a normally open switch, just bridge them. Have a look on the PSU to see if there is a test button, that bypasses everything and with the control card unplugged will fire the tube no matter what interlocks or pad problems there may be

Good advice. I forgot about the test button. That should narrow down the problem.

Bert Kemp
01-14-2015, 11:18 PM
Also check the cover safety switch, one might have loosened up and dropped out of postion.

Walt Langhans
01-15-2015, 11:46 PM
I've had my laser not fire for pretty much ever reason you can have, but it's more than I care to type I've sent you a PM with my number you can give me a call and I can walk you through some things.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-17-2015, 6:16 PM
Thank you, I'll try

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-17-2015, 6:18 PM
Thanks Dave, I tried both of those things right off, but still no fire. My test button actually is labeled "TEXT".... Had me pretty confused for a while...."WTH, TEXT?????" Thanks, what I want to find out now is between the power supply or tube. The power supply light comes on, fan works.... but not sure how to test it.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-17-2015, 6:19 PM
I wish, but it doesn't have one...... Thanks

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-17-2015, 6:20 PM
Thanks, I'm just now sort of figuring out this Forum how it works, wish it would email me when I get a response.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-17-2015, 6:37 PM
OK, this is the actual laser http://www.ebay.com/itm/CO2-LASER-ENGRAVING-MACHINE-CUTTING-ENGRAVER-WITH-CYLINDER-ROTARY-ATTACHMENT-d1-/150964367746?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23262d7182,
This is the tube that fits....http://www.ebay.com/itm/50w-CO2-Sealed-Laser-Engraver-Tube-Water-Cool-85CM-for-Shenhui-DC-G350-engraver-/160879770393?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25752e7b19.. any others from other companies are too long for my machine....
So the only tube I found that fits says it's for a Shenhui DC-G350 engraver.... I'm wondering if this is the machine I have? So basically I bypassed the flow switch, no change, disconnected the one 6 prong clip going into power supply and hit the test button (says TEXT on mine, weird)...no fire... I'm leaning towards the tube being the problem, but have limited resources and don't want to buy it, then need a power supply too. Also when I received the machine Nothing came on at all.... messed with the Emergency switch...then all OK. At least that is how I remember it. Walt has 2 power lines coming into his machie and the emergency switch just shuts off the laser. Does anyone have my actual machine and know anything about this. Everything else on it works, just no fire. I've been using a 5 gallon bucket of water w/ Blue Ice for cooling..... maybe that isn't enough. The highest power I run it is 89%, never for more than 10-15 minutes and that is doing multiple pieces so that it can rest in between. I really need to get this going as I have a big order coming up ...... Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks

Bert Kemp
01-17-2015, 6:57 PM
Is there a power cord coming out the back thats suppose to connect to a chiller make sure this did not come loose, if no cord then there might be a jumper bypass thingy that came disconnected if that happened the test button on the powewr supply won't even work.

Dave Sheldrake
01-17-2015, 7:17 PM
To use the test function (text ;)) you have to unplug the PSU from the mainboard (you can do it with a bridge but it can be dodgy)

cheers

Dave

Bill George
01-17-2015, 7:27 PM
I find it difficult to read a post with large bold type, small bold type and now small enough its hard to see text. Your jumping all around and not following any logical troubleshooting procedure. Also seems like your answering private emails or PM's in the forum??
It could be as simple as a safety switch on your machine, water flow switch or any number of things. But if you want to start by replacing the tube.....?

BTW Chris gave you some good advice about tightening screw connections, did you try?

Rich Harman
01-17-2015, 7:49 PM
If it were a problem with water flow then there should be an error message on the LCD stating as much. Have you used the "Test" button in the past? If not then it is possible that the laser is set to fire (when using the test button) for such a short period of time that it is not noticeable. In the LCD menu, 'Laser Set' should be "0" if you want it to fire for as long as you hold the button down.

If the tube were bad then I would expect there to be a popping or arcing noise when attempting to fire. I have had only one tube fail on me but as far as I know, tube failures generally happen over a period of time - not instantaneously.

If you were to post photos of your main board, PSU, tube - anything relevant, it would help us to help you. A video would be even better.

Jerome Stanek
01-18-2015, 8:00 AM
What is you max and min laser power setting at on the drop down in your software.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-18-2015, 8:18 PM
I disconnected the 6 prong plug going in, was told by someone that was what I was supposed to do...pushed TEXT button, nothing happened.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-18-2015, 8:29 PM
Sorry, I'm half blind so I was doing it large so I could see it... but then somehow it switched back right b4 I posted. I'm not sure what you mean by "logical procedure"...To me the first thing I checked was the water flow switch... (to me that seemed like the first logical step) after eyeballing everything else, trying different setting, etc. .. bypassed it, No change there are no safety switches on my machine like on the lid or whatever...the next thing I did was check the power supply, fan working, light on, disconnect 6 prong plug and push test....nothing... And I do NOT want to start by replacing the tube, can't afford it, that's why I'm here asking questions so I don't spend money unnecessarily... I checked the connections to the tube and all other viable connections.... I haven't had a chance to tighten yet, too much going on here otherwise....plan on trying that next. I've just started using this forum and don't know exactly how it works and don't have a lot of time to study the in's and outs and was just trying to communicate to get some help, sorry I don't know certain protocol.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-18-2015, 8:33 PM
Video is a good idea, thanks..... I'll see if there is a way to set the fire on the little panel.... Yeah, I thought it was strange that one second it was working fine, then nothing the next.... My first thought was the flow switch or loose connection, I'll try the laser test set and tightening all connections...if no go will do a video.... Thanks a lot

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-18-2015, 8:36 PM
It doesn't have a drop down, you just type it in, I just figured it was 0-100..... the max I ever use is 89, for just a few seconds..... My manual is that Chinese one totally worthless and the company I got it from does not give me any support even though they claimed to for 2 years and I've only had it maybe 5 months.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-18-2015, 9:05 PM
So I went out to check some things.... Now it didn't turn on at all..Nothing like when the emergency (piece of junk) switch freezes ...as it was when it arrived here.... will bypass emergency switch tomorrow, So there is this ceramic looking fuse like thing on the power cable coming out of the power supply... Wat dat ? HMMM???? Main fuse looks OK, can test that 2 morrow as well, and will do video if I don't get it going. Thanks for all your help, sorry I don't exactly understand the workings or protocol here, just trying to figure it out.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-19-2015, 10:15 AM
OK, I had to jumper the emergency switch, it decided now would be a good time to quit working and checked the Laser set...it was 0...... Took a video... will figure out how to add it to the thread


If it were a problem with water flow then there should be an error message on the LCD stating as much. Have you used the "Test" button in the past? If not then it is possible that the laser is set to fire (when using the test button) for such a short period of time that it is not noticeable. In the LCD menu, 'Laser Set' should be "0" if you want it to fire for as long as you hold the button down.

If the tube were bad then I would expect there to be a popping or arcing noise when attempting to fire. I have had only one tube fail on me but as far as I know, tube failures generally happen over a period of time - not instantaneously.

If you were to post photos of your main board, PSU, tube - anything relevant, it would help us to help you. A video would be even better.

Bill George
01-19-2015, 12:04 PM
OK, I had to jumper the emergency switch, it decided now would be a good time to quit working and checked the Laser set...it was 0...... Took a video... will figure out how to add it to the thread
Checked the "Laser set... it was 0..." what are you meaning by that? The HV Power supply as I understand it has an internal fuse, if you have the control terminal strip unplugged (the one by the test button) and the test button does not fire, could be that internal fuse. Or it could be a loose wire on any of the terminal strips.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-19-2015, 12:52 PM
Hi George, I guess I was replying to the wrong person, someone suggested that if the laser set switch on panel was not set to 0 that it might simply not have enough power... I have unplugged terminal strip and hit test (text) on mine.... nothing happens. Sounds a little scary looking inside the power supply 4 fuse..... I've been grounding everything w/ jumpers..... does the supply still hold power after 45 min. which folks suggest I wait b4 working on, should I still worry about too much at that point....would there be enough juice at that point to arc to me from the jumper if it was hooked to ground.
Thanks for your help, I really need to get it working, not getting any tech support from company....

Checked the "Laser set... it was 0..." what are you meaning by that? The HV Power supply as I understand it has an internal fuse, if you have the control terminal strip unplugged (the one by the test button) and the test button does not fire, could be that internal fuse. Or it could be a loose wire on any of the terminal strips.

Walt Langhans
01-19-2015, 2:43 PM
This is the Skype user name for shenhui Tech Support jane_2251, they should be able to help

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-19-2015, 5:16 PM
So tightened all connections, checked internal power supply fuse...All OK. Still does everything but fire.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-19-2015, 5:30 PM
Here is a video....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKZYYN-eD9I&feature=youtu.be, tested internal power supply fuse...OK, everything tight....

walter hofmann
01-20-2015, 5:21 AM
hi
did you check if the AC is on the HV powersupply? next step would be to open the HV powersupply and look in the front somewhere there is a glass or ceramic fuse test it if it is blown. be carefull wait at least one hour after turn the machine off that the capacitor inside get discharged there is high voltage in the game.
other then this just chek the connection on the tube if they are tight.
greetings
waltfl

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-20-2015, 8:01 AM
Hi Walter, yep, I did that, fuse was good, connections were tight... Thanks, I'm at a loss and need it fixed, might have to just get tube and power supply, but really can't afford both.... and then if it still doesn't work...YIKES.

hi
did you check if the AC is on the HV powersupply? next step would be to open the HV powersupply and look in the front somewhere there is a glass or ceramic fuse test it if it is blown. be carefull wait at least one hour after turn the machine off that the capacitor inside get discharged there is high voltage in the game.
other then this just chek the connection on the tube if they are tight.
greetings
waltfl

Bill George
01-20-2015, 8:47 AM
Hi Walter, yep, I did that, fuse was good, connections were tight... Thanks, I'm at a loss and need it fixed, might have to just get tube and power supply, but really can't afford both.... and then if it still doesn't work...YIKES.

So what was the voltage reading into the PSU and what type of meter did you use?

If you have power there and unplugged the correct plug, pressed the Test (Text) button did the tube fire then?

If not its either the PSU, connections to the tube or the tube its self. Did you get a large green resistor with the laser and does your machine have a mA meter?

What about where you purchased from and warranty?

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-20-2015, 9:17 AM
The power supply fan comes on, I unplugged the 6 prong plug and hit test...nothing happened, I took out the fuse and ran small current through it to make sure it was good. No MA meter and there is a large white resister on the power line coming from power supply. 2 year warranty, but those folks aren't really inclined to help..."we don't speak English so there is no use calling us". And even when giving them lot's of info they still just act like they are responding to somebody else, he he. So the Flow Switch was my first thought, so I just bypassed it by connecting the 2 wires direct.... shouldn't this fix the prob, if that was it. I can't afford very much to fix but was offered this at $350, what do you think http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-CO2-Laser-tube-50W-Power-Supply-Engraver-Engraving-/221641844924?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339ae228bc...
Thanks for your help

So what was the voltage reading into the PSU and what type of meter did you use?

If you have power there and unplugged the correct plug, pressed the Test (Text) button did the tube fire then?

If not its either the PSU, connections to the tube or the tube its self. Did you get a large green resistor with the laser and does your machine have a mA meter?

What about where you purchased from and warranty?

Bill George
01-20-2015, 9:58 AM
Well if you have really done all what was suggested its up to you to decide what to do next.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-20-2015, 10:10 AM
Well I had pretty much figured it was either the power supply or tube but was really hoping someone would think of something it might be that wouldn't cost me so much. But I'm thinking of going with the tube/power supply combination.
It just didn't seem to me that in one breath the tube would be perfect, then the next one.... gone, no visible prob, no audible clue.... And the power supply fan works fuse OK, but haven't actually tested the output, not an electrician and haven't really found a simple way to do that online..... so guess I'll go for the combo and cross my fingers.
Thanks again, if you think of anything else let me know

The power supply fan comes on, I unplugged the 6 prong plug and hit test...nothing happened, I took out the fuse and ran small current through it to make sure it was good. No MA meter and there is a large white resister on the power line coming from power supply. 2 year warranty, but those folks aren't really inclined to help..."we don't speak English so there is no use calling us". And even when giving them lot's of info they still just act like they are responding to somebody else, he he. So the Flow Switch was my first thought, so I just bypassed it by connecting the 2 wires direct.... shouldn't this fix the prob, if that was it. I can't afford very much to fix but was offered this at $350, what do you think http://www.ebay.com/itm/50W-CO2-Laser-tube-50W-Power-Supply-Engraver-Engraving-/221641844924?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339ae228bc...
Thanks for your help

Jerome Stanek
01-20-2015, 12:40 PM
Here is a link on how to test your power supply

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-test-and-set-a-Chinese-China-made-CO2-Laser/

Or this one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=WRWCPxQlGPs

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-20-2015, 8:41 PM
Thanks will check tomorrow....

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-20-2015, 10:54 PM
Yep, I've seen these. The second one isn't really useful because it's just power to the tube that I don't have...the rest is OK. The other video I saw but parts made no sense to me, so I sort of avoided it. Like step 3, where it tells you to use the menu on touchpad, set to 100% blah blah and read the meter.... but the meter isn't even hooked up yet... I don't get that...And then when they do finally get around to hooking it up(which apparently requires that I take the wires off the tube...(which I haven't quite figured out how to do that without destroying the freakin tube...any suggestions there would be useful... I think under the plastic tube shot full of silicon I have soldered wires.... but that plastic tube shot full of silicon is like grown on there....how are you supposed to get that off without destroying the wire? ? but anyway later when the meter is hooked up they say set it low first to check for arcing etc..... so why are they saying in step 3 to set it to 100%, when it's not even hooked up.... And I've never seen anywhere on my unit or keypad where I can set the time... to 3000 ms. And once it fires for that tiny burst, won't my meter just return to zero, I don't think my brain can even process what it sees in 3000 ms.
So with all these things not making sense to me, I avoided this one too. I was on another forum where some guy, I couldn't believe this..... gave advise on an easy way to do it. So I printed it out and was going to go do it..... but decided to read down a little further just to see what else folks said.... Well it turns out that guy was just joking....and his advise would have killed me.. (or the person who originally posed the question...rest in Peace.. HA HA, really funny... And if I hadn't read down further I'd be toast this very moment...... so when I don't quite get something, I'm a little nervous about doing it...... But I would sure like to know for sure b4 I spend money I can't really afford.

Here is a link on how to test your power supply

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-test-and-set-a-Chinese-China-made-CO2-Laser/

Or this one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=WRWCPxQlGPs

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-28-2015, 12:46 PM
305348 So, in case there are any electrical experts out there. Here's a schematic of my power supply. I do not believe I have any output from it.... For lack of anything better I did the styrofoam peanut test, Nada. I put a meter on L and ground and had the 4.96 volts, hit test, goes to 0.... Then put it on the IN and read 3.56 volts, hit test and it goes actually up to almost 4..... Any expert opinions... My thought is it's something on the HV side of the power supply. OH also I tested return voltage wire for HV with the same styrofoam test and saw nothing there. I'm inclined to believe it's a power supply problem, don't think it's the tube..... but the 3.56 reading makes me wonder? Could it be in the control board. Really don't want to buy something I can't afford....then have it be something else.... I've seen that so many times here and on other forums. OK electrical Masters...... strut your stuff.

Bill George
01-28-2015, 1:14 PM
305348 So, in case there are any electrical experts out there. Here's a schematic of my power supply. I do not believe I have any output from it.... For lack of anything better I did the styrofoam peanut test, Nada. I put a meter on L and ground and had the 4.96 volts, hit test, goes to 0.... Then put it on the IN and read 3.56 volts, hit test and it goes actually up to almost 4..... Any expert opinions... My thought is it's something on the HV side of the power supply. OH also I tested return voltage wire for HV with the same styrofoam test and saw nothing there. I'm inclined to believe it's a power supply problem, don't think it's the tube..... but the 3.56 reading makes me wonder? Could it be in the control board. Really don't want to buy something I can't afford....then have it be something else.... I've seen that so many times here and on other forums. OK electrical Masters...... strut your stuff.

Hard to keep track of what is going on, you have two Threads on the same subject and Good answers from very knowledgeable people in both. You ignore the basics and keep asking the same questions.... expecting different answers! :rolleyes:

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-28-2015, 1:34 PM
Thank you for the Oh so useful reply. Yes and so far the answers have not helped, this is why I go on and explain further. Do you have anything useful or intelligent to add to the conversation, it would be appreciated. Or do you just hang out here to feel superior and criticize people. I'm sure your presence would be far more appreciated if you occasionally had something relevant to the subject at hand.

Bill George
01-28-2015, 5:36 PM
Some of What I do when I am not on here :) Restoring and repairing all the previous screw ups that someone else did, on a mini Dozer. 20 Hp Honda engine driving a big pump and hydraulic motors driving rubber tracks. Fitting a bucket to use in place of the dozer blade.
305381

Ken Shea
01-28-2015, 8:33 PM
Jeffrey,
Don't think I over looked as I read all the post but have you checked the main supply line voltage, then follow that through as far as you can go to be sure it is proper voltage through ?

Ken

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-28-2015, 8:54 PM
I followed the power up to the power supply inputs. On the schematic "L" was 4.96 on my meter...I figured close enough to 5... dropped to "0" when I hit fire .. The "IN" showed 3.56 which seems in range for some stats I found online....but it actually jumped to 3.6 when I hit test..... it possibly should have dropped to 0.1. But I'm not sure the info I had was for this power supply, I did the styrofoam peanut test next to the Power Line and it didn't move, also the return power line didn't move....It seems the power is making it to the supply, but not out. But this is not my area of expertise. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.305396305397

Ken Shea
01-28-2015, 9:19 PM
"But this is not my area of expertise."
Definitely not mine either. :)

I was talking about main supply voltage lines, starting right out of the Circuit box right up to the plug where it enters the laser.
From what I read wasn't sure thet you had checked that.

Your system looks nothing like my unit so can't compare, not that any comparison would do any good, never have got mine going so I know what you are going through and it is very frustrating. I have almost nine grand (total) in mine doing nothing but sitting there, spent untold hours on it, next step if it ever gets that far is hire in a professional Laser repair guy. There is one here in Ohio but it gets costly.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-28-2015, 9:28 PM
Well the only test I can safely do on the power side is the styrofoam peanut test, and it showed no power

Ken Shea
01-28-2015, 9:32 PM
You don't have a multi meter?

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-28-2015, 9:46 PM
Yes I do have a multi meter, but you can't test the power side with that unless you want to die, I used it to verify power to the power supply though.

Ken Shea
01-28-2015, 9:55 PM
All I have been talking about is supply voltage, that's it, I've hinted at nothing beyond that.

It sounds like you are going to have to start replacing things to find out, that's unfortunate.
Is there an electrical shop close to you that you could take the power supply to and have it tested?

Bill George
01-28-2015, 10:00 PM
The cooling fan may not be an indicator of proper or correct input power. Your power supply needs either 120 or 240 volts AC, whatever it is switched to take for a source. The cooling fan is probably 12 volts DC so it could be running on either 120 or 240 volts power from the circuit. I am assuming that you have checked the selector switch and input source voltage to make sure they match.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-28-2015, 10:05 PM
So when you are talking supply voltage you are just talking about into the power supply? Or are you talking about the Power side? You can't test that with a multi meter.... The only shop I knew may not exist any more, been 20 years, and they were a rip off then... I'll see. The problem with replacing parts is I can't afford it. I can afford a tube, OR a power supply, OR the mainboard, but not all 3 or 2. That's why I'm so persistantly trying to figure it out.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-28-2015, 10:11 PM
I just was told this by a person in a power supply factory..... Is this Safe? " pls connect one Ampere Meter on the negative line (black line) between power supply and tube, then start working, and control the power supply output MAX power, if the MAX current more than 20mA, then the power supply is OK.".... Is that just an ordinary multi meter?

Bill George
01-28-2015, 10:23 PM
Keyword ..... Input

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-28-2015, 10:52 PM
Ok, so I put multi meter in black line from laser tube to power supply. Tech person at supply factory said it should read over 20mA....It was Zero, she said this shows the power supply is bad..... How does that sound?

Rich Harman
01-28-2015, 11:54 PM
I'll tell you what I would do if I were in your situation. I would disconnect the two wires from the laser tube and place them about two inches apart. Then I would use the LCD control panel and set the laser power to 50% and set it so that it fired for only 10mS when the test button is pressed. Then I would press the button and hope for an arc. If I saw a nice bright arc then I would conclude that the power supply is working. If i didn't see a spark then I would move the wires a little closer and try again. If that didn't work I would try the test button located on the power supply. If that still did not work then I would say the power supply is dead.

Again, this is only what I would do. I doubt it is something that most people would recommend and it certainly poses some risks. But if the power supply really is dead then there is not much to be lost, as long as you don't shock yourself.

BTW, there is the chance that there is someone near you that might be willing to lend a hand, but since you don't have your location listed - how would they know?

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-29-2015, 12:27 AM
Well I've been talking to a woman at a power supply company and done some tests she recommended (metering the black wire...and I did the styrofoam test..... She says it sounds like the power supply for sure ....and that I am still under warranty (we'll see how that goes) ....so I should get one free. I could deal with that, then if it's not that I could better afford ..... with the power to the power supply I'mn almost sure that is the problem, but not 100%. I haven't found a for sure source for the power in readings yet.

Rich Harman
01-29-2015, 1:40 AM
Well I've been talking to a woman at a power supply company...

"A" power supply company? Not the company that makes "your" power supply?

If she is going to replace your power supply under warranty then that sounds like you have the problem solved.


I haven't found a for sure source for the power in readings yet.
I can't work out what you mean by that.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-29-2015, 9:52 AM
Afraid it wasn't the company I bought from, just some company in China that makes a power supply that works with my machine...we pretty much figured it must be the power supply and she said I should try to get it free from the company I bought it from since it is under warranty and I've only had it a few months...(Haven't heard a word from the company I bought it from of course. By the "power in" settings I meant what the voltage readings should be on the different input pins of the power supply . What they are without fire and with... I found some but wasn't positive it was the same as mine.

Wilbur Harris
01-29-2015, 2:19 PM
Have you actually tested the power at the plug in - the plug in where you plug the laser into the wall or wherever you plug it?

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-29-2015, 2:25 PM
YES..... Everything works except for the laser firing. I have power all the way to the power supply, but not out.

Wilbur Harris
01-29-2015, 10:22 PM
Seems to be a pretty good analysis that it's the power supply! Find (buy) another one quickly and then keep after the folks you bought it from for a free spare. You clearly need a spare! In fact, I didn't listen to some extreme advice to have extras of such and based on what you're going through I goofed.....

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-29-2015, 11:14 PM
Yep, that's what I'm thinking too. Problem is if it's the tube, I will have spent all my money on the power supply.... can't afford both that's why I've wanted to be very very sure. It looks like they riveted the freaking thing in there. I can't see anything visibly wrong, so want a view of the flip side. They don't look that complicated, use to fix TV's back in the Tube days, but not much of the new fangled stuff. Thanks for the input..

Chris Corwin
01-30-2015, 9:15 PM
One time I had a problem with a 40w power supply. The tube wouldn't light and I knew it was still good. I took the power supply apart and noticed one of the bolts holding the high power transformer in place was broken. Apparently the transformer was only grounded through this bolt. I managed to solder a connection (don't ask me how- it was ugly) and brought the power supply back to life. If you have good electronic skillz, check it out. It could be something really stupid.

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
01-30-2015, 9:38 PM
I totally tore it apart today, everything looked fine....... I'll check again

Jeffrey Michael Wilson
02-17-2015, 9:21 PM
It was the power supply, got a new one, works fine....