Chippendale Lowboy Build – Part 10 casework, columns, final assembly – tons of pics

[Mike Allen1010]

Gonna try and keep this brief and mostly go with pictures. Gluing up dividers; getting inside shoulders to match is key for no gaps, square case.
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Ripping Poplar for drawer runners/kickers. For long rips like this, I like to position work so that I can stand next to it, rather than kneel on the saw bench. One reasons hy like a heavier saw bench that will keep the work stable without my bodyweight.
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Set up for dimensioning drawer runners and kickers.
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I dowel these together because it's fast and there’s really no stress on these joints.
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Because the bottom row of drawers are at different heights you have to build separate drawer assemblies, and once aligned with openings, screw them together and screw to carcass sides.

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With all drawer runners kickers, frames installed.
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[Mike Allen1010]

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The original plans called for a plywood back – ugggh! I chose to re-saw cherry for book matched panel. I recently got a LV benchstop. I've had shop made versions for years, but they always seem to buckle at the wrong time. These LV benchstops are great kit for planning thin stock. I definitely plan to pick up another one for use in my tail vise.
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Drawer sides are “Whitewood”I got at the local BORG. I’m not sure what it really is, but it works like white pine and was a real pleasure to use. I have to find another project to use this wood –too much fun to work!
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[Mike Allen1010]

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The central carved drawer front needs to be 2” thick to accommodate the carving. Resawing this piece from 12/4 cherry made me wish I had a decent bandsaw.

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After starting the kerf on all four edges with a smaller rip saw, I pulled out the heavy artillery– a 28” D-8, 4 PPI.
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Yes this was lots of work, no I could not persuade my boys to help out – such slackers, I clearly didn’t raise them right! Although they did give me these for Christmas:

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[Mike Allen1010]

Ripping the top to final width. This is my longest jointer plane and I typically reserve it to make the last few passes so I don’t have to sharpen it as often (the primus type mechanism makes it a hassle IMHO). I am not embarrassed to say I cheated to get square edges by using a fence on the jointer.

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Creating the little detail on the corner of the top. Circle template is one of my most used layout tools. Fortunately the moldings is on the underside of the top so I can do that last. After the molding plane, still took entirely too much time fussing trying to get a smooth flowing profile with carving tools, rasps and sandpaper.

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Most of thefurniture I build has flush fit, pocket drawers. I thought these overlapping, lipped drawers would be much easier (hey, drawer front will overlap the pocket so how close does it have to be really?). However what I failed to realize is that it still takes some effort to get the alignment and spacing of the drawer fronts even.Once I trial fit the drawer fronts, I realize the bottom outside drawers were too tall so that the difference in height of the central door wasn’t noticeable. This required some trimming.
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[Mike Allen1010]

This was my second attempt at turned, split columns. I think these came out better (who knew you could use sandpaper on the lathe!). I was so excited with the turnings, that I split them apart before carving the flutes – oopps! As a result, I had to do them by hand with carving tools. Actually this was less nerve-racking than using an elaboratejig to hold the router and do them while the column is still on the lathe.
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Last thing to do was the thumbnail molding that goes under the top. For me trying to get decent moldings with hollows and rounds is still a hit and miss proposition. Seems like I always have some protruding corner of the blade that leaves a gouge in the moulding where it’s not supposed to be. I was able to use scrapers to fix most of the damage.
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Here’s the final case completely assembled:
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I finished the insides of drawers with a couple coats of shellac so that I can put some cedar over the plywood bottoms after all the finishing is complete.
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Not now all that remains is finishing. I would love to think I could use an off-the-shelf product to get the color I want, but last time I ended up having to mix in some brown TransTint to tone down the redness of the cherry. I hate doing that. I suck at colors. Maybe this time I’ll just go with the natural color of the cherry and hope it darkens over time.

Thanks for looking,
Mike

[Augusto Orosco]

That's just fantastic, but we are now used to that from you by now.

P.S. Regarding the socks, I can't think of a more appropriate gift for you from your kids!

[Tony Shea]

Very nice Mike, the amount of work you put out is truly impressive. Not sure how you do it but I am impressed. And all the pictures are wonderful.

[Brett Robson]

Great job! I'm amazed at how quickly you are able to make these elaborate pieces, especially doing it all by hand!

I've had pretty good luck spraying a diluted dye in an alcohol base on the last few period pieces I've made. If you want to color it, I'd suggest going that route.

[Michael Fross]

You sir have a saw problem.....

I think I spent half the time looking at the fantastic work and the other half snooping around your shop. :D

Michael

[Chuck Hart]

Wow...That's nice work! I agree you have a saw problem

[Christopher Charles]

Hello Mike,

Congrats on completing another amazing piece. You might try putting the piece in the sun for a couple of hours--i've found the initial darkening of cherry happens pretty fast and then continues more slowly over time.

will look forward to the final pics with finish.

C

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks Chris and Brett for the finishing suggestions. Brett, I've seen some pictures of your work and your furniture and the finishing you do is fantastic. I don't have a spray set up, but have had decent luck diluting dye in 50% alcohol and 50% lacquer thinner. I'm hoping the dye I have isn't supposed to be diluted with water, but I'm really not sure. Finishing is always a white knuckler for me. I have absolutely zero understanding of the underlying theory/chemistry, which I'm sure is why I have certainly screwed up more than my share.

Michael and Chuck, your 100% right, my "handsaw problem" has reached pathological levels that defy all common sense. I am too embarrassed to say how many saws I have in my "daily user" tills, but beyond that have probably another 50 hanging in the rafters awaiting restoration/sharpening that I have absolutely no use for. Why do I have these saws? – Again I have no idea. In my defense, in between furniture projects I do enjoy restoring and tuneing up a couple that I can send along to new homes where my fellow neanders will enjoy them. Somehow kind of therapeutic and gratifying to me to put these hundred-year-old tools in the hands of current woodworkers so they can have that "ah ha" moment of using a well tuned handsaw, just like previous generations who made their living with them.

Tony, these posts probably make me look way more productive than I really am. I have a full-time day job so all of my woodworking gets done on the weekends. Now that the boys are out of the house, I sure get a lot more uninterrupted shop time than when they were young. The last couple posts are the result of two weeks off I got over the holidays, which was a real blessing. In total, I've been working on this project for four months. If my past slothfulness is any guide, I'll probably drag out the finishing for at least another month's worth of weekends.

Caesar, always great to hear from you. Thanks for your comments – now I know what to get you for Christmas!

All the best, Mike

[Brian Holcombe]

Awesome work Mike, and thank you for documenting the process.

[Brett Robson]

Mike - one minor suggestion - you may want to add two kickers across the top inside of the case spanning between the leg posts to hold that top drawer down. Without them that drawer will really droop when extended.

Unless of course you already have addressed this, or like it the way it is, in which case please ignore my suggestion.:)

[Patrick McCarthy]

As usual Michael, very enjoyable watching your project progress, along with your skill sets, in this thread. Thank you for allowing us to follow along on the journey with you. Always impressed with your projects, sir.

best to the Boss and sons, Patrick

[Mike Allen1010]

[QUOTE=Brett Robson;2361598]Mike - one minor suggestion - you may want to add two kickers across the top inside of the case spanning between the leg posts to hold that top drawer down. Without them that drawer will really droop when extended.

Great idea Brett. I just kind of built the internal drawer frame/runners/spacer blocks on-the-fly and didn't realize I needed kickers until I test fit the drawer.

This kind of after-the-fact "opps!" discovery" happens for me a lot because I'm not good with plans and visualizing how things fit together in three dimensions. The realization you pointed out led to what is for me a typically rinky-dink solution of adding kickers attached through blocks screwed to the carcass sides. It would've been much better if I would've figured this out in the beginning and included the joinery for the kickers in the carcass construction.

I can't guarantee I won't make the same darn mistake next time around. Usually takes me a couple screw ups minimum before the lesson sinks in:confused:.

Best, Mike

[Brett Robson]

Great idea Brett. I just kind of built the internal drawer frame/runners/spacer blocks on-the-fly and didn't realize I needed kickers until I test fit the drawer.

This kind of after-the-fact "opps!" discovery" happens for me a lot because I'm not good with plans and visualizing how things fit together in three dimensions. The realization you pointed out led to what is for me a typically rinky-dink solution of adding kickers attached through blocks screwed to the carcass sides. It would've been much better if I would've figured this out in the beginning and included the joinery for the kickers in the carcass construction.

I can't guarantee I won't make the same darn mistake next time around. Usually takes me a couple screw ups minimum before the lesson sinks in:confused:.

Best, Mike

I had a chuckle at that as that's exactly how I go about making furniture!

[Jerry Olexa]

VERY nice work!!! Thanks for sharing.