Can I safely run an inlay through a planer?

[Michael Yadfar]

I am making a jewelry box, and I made an inlay for the top. The table on the scroll saw was close to the right angle, but not quite, so the inlay sits about 1/16" higher than the board it's in, which is 1/2" thick. I was thinking about running both sides of this through the planer to make the inlay even with the board, but I was afraid this would take large chunks out of the inlay. I made a cat, so I got a thin tail and legs, and while it's glued, I was afraid there's a possibility of it tearing out. I don't have a belt sander so sanding would take forever.

[Chris Padilla]

Sanding will take a lot less time than redoing your inlay and top from a risky trip through the planer. IF you are still so inclined, I'd make sure the blades are freshly sharp/sharpened and I'd take extremely light passes...EXTREMELY LIGHT.

Make yourself a sanding board: glue/tape/whatever some sandpaper (80 grit is a good start) to a flat board of a size a bit wider than your inlay and fashion some kind of hand grip (if necessary) and go at it. Trust me, it won't take long to knock down 1/16" this way and it is the most gentle and safest way to preserve your hard work.

Or if the size warrants it, double-stick tape a sheet of 80 grit to a flat surface (table saw top works) and go at it that way.

[Bill Huber]

I agree with Chis, sand it off with some flat sandpaper.
I have one of these and it is really great for jobs like you are talking about, it sands flat.
http://www.woodpeck.com/sanddevilstool.html

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[Michael Yadfar]

How about the back where the piece it's inserted into is higher? I guess maybe I can either leave it or put a piece of veneer on

[Wayne Lovell]

If you have any lumber yards near you that cater to woodworkers you could call them and see if they have a drum sander. I know that there is at least one in both Houston and Dallas who will plane customer's material for a small price and they probably have sanders.
Another idea would be to contact any woodworking clubs in your area, they probably have members who own sanders who would be willing to help you.

[Rick Gibson]

A sharp block plane would work. you may not want to take it all the way down in case of cutting into the backing board but you should be able to get close enough hand sanding would not take so long.

[Rob Damon]

A sharp block plane would work. you may not want to take it all the way down in case of cutting into the backing board but you should be able to get close enough hand sanding would not take so long.

And when you get close with the block plane, change to a card scraper to flush it out since you may be dealing with multiple grain directions. Any Pics? It may bring out other suggestions.

[Jim Tobias]

I would use a freshly sharpened card scraper. Takes only a few minutes at most and gives you a smooooooooth finish!
Jim

[Frank Drew]

Running your work through a planer might work, but, YIKES!, the risk of destroying it is too high a price to pay, IMO.

[Robert LaPlaca]

I am making a jewelry box, and I made an inlay for the top. The table on the scroll saw was close to the right angle, but not quite, so the inlay sits about 1/16" higher than the board it's in, which is 1/2" thick. I was thinking about running both sides of this through the planer to make the inlay even with the board, but I was afraid this would take large chunks out of the inlay. I made a cat, so I got a thin tail and legs, and while it's glued, I was afraid there's a possibility of it tearing out. I don't have a belt sander so sanding would take forever.

I would only use a sharp card scraper to level the inlay with the rest of the surface..

[Peter Kelly]

You could also try a flush cut saw.
http://www.hidatool.com/woodworking/saws-for-woodworking/flush-cut-saws/gyokucho-1151-flush-cut-ryoba-saw-125mm-5
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=50663&cat=1,42884

[Jim Finn]

I have run a lot of inlaid projects through my DeWalt planer but no longer do it. It works well about 90% of the time and the wood fails 10% of the time. I now use a 8" belt sander that I got from harbor freight for $200. It takes about 30 seconds to flatten out the inlay that may be sticking up too much, using this sander with 80 grit belt. Well worth the investment. You could do it with a random orbital sander and 80 grit paper also. Not quite as easy that way though.

[Tom Ewell]

Router surfacing sled or jig with a good flat bottom bit can get it done too, followed by manual sanding.
But the card and sanding options might be better for a 'one of'
With the planer, tear out and snipe on what I suppose is a fairly small piece may very well trash the artwork.