Marking Gauge

[lowell holmes]

In another thread on story sticks, there is a mention of marking gages.
It is the thread for story stick. The stick closely resembles the one featured in the attached link. I thought you might be interested in the marking gages as well. This link will take you to it.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/mystery_of_the_marking_gauge

I'm posting it here to avoid highjacking the other string.

[Daniel Rode]

I'm preparing to make a marking gauge myself. I'm still trying to figure out how I want to secure the beam, but The rest is pretty clear thanks to some great suggestions here.

I want a triangular beam so it snugs up without any wiggle. I also want a knife style cutter rather than a traditional pin. Mine will be made from a blank beading cutter like these (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32679&cat=1,230,41182). It will be V shaped and secure with a screw into the end of the beam. The body will be shaped much like a Japanese kebiki. I want a top mounted screw type lock rather than a wedge. I'd like to find a knurled knob with a threaded stud but I haven't found anything yet. That's my next step, locate a suitable knob/screw/stud and then draw it all out in Sketchup.

I've been thinking about it for a year or more, hopefully I'll finally start making in the next few weeks. I was going to do it during the holidays but got side tracked by other projects.


In another thread on story sticks, there is a mention of marking gages.
It is the thread for story stick. The stick closely resembles the one featured in the attached link. I thought you might be interested in the marking gages as well. This link will take you to it.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/mystery_of_the_marking_gauge

I'm posting it here to avoid highjacking the other string.

[Jim Matthews]

I wonder if you could make one with an old "engineer's" triangular ruler?
They're straight, stable and already marked with gradations.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41rUi0B7zjL.jpg

[Reinis Kanders]

That's an interesting idea. I was also thinking of something similar for a panel gage, but with t-slot track. Decided that it was just too ugly.
Your black ruler actually looks pretty good.


I wonder if you could make one with an old "engineer's" triangular ruler?
They're straight, stable and already marked with gradations.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41rUi0B7zjL.jpg

[Zach Dillinger]

I wonder if you could make one with an old "engineer's" triangular ruler?
They're straight, stable and already marked with gradations.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41rUi0B7zjL.jpg

Jim, that is a stellar idea! Never thought of it.

[Winton Applegate]

a knurled knob with a threaded stud
http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Knurled-Length-Threaded-Threads/dp/B00DD4X1BA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421296101&sr=8-1&keywords=knurled+screw+brass

[Jonathan Martell]

http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Knurled-Length-Threaded-Threads/dp/B00DD4X1BA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421296101&sr=8-1&keywords=knurled+screw+brass

You can buy a whole gage from HF for the price of that thumb screw. You certainly want to pick through the stock, but the one I bought was ok. I do like the idea of the roller gage, and it's on the lathe project list.

[Pat Barry]

http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Knurled-Length-Threaded-Threads/dp/B00DD4X1BA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421296101&sr=8-1&keywords=knurled+screw+brass

Yikes! That's a it pricey. You can get #10-24 x 1/2 in. Coarse Zinc-Plated Steel Thumb Screws (4-Pack)[, for $1.18 at home depot. same screw in stainless for $0.96 each

[Jim Koepke]

I do like the idea of the roller gage, and it's on the lathe project list.

I must have missed the "roller gage" (gauge). Now you have piqued my interest.

What is a roller gage?

Also a note on my learning on this. The next time one of these is made the mortise for the wedge will go deeper into the mortice for the beam. Currently my wedge can fall out. A deeper mortise would make for a taller bead on the wedge that would be blocked by the edge when the beam holds it up.

Not sure if this makes sense. If not, let me know if pictures would help.

jtk

[David B. Morris]

If you can forgo the knurling, LV has nice thumb screws into which you could epoxy a length of threaded rod: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=68951&cat=1,43455

[Jim Koepke]

If you can forgo the knurling, LV has nice thumb screws into which you could epoxy a length of threaded rod:

At those prices I might try to make my own.

Then again I have a 1/4-28 tap and could use some of the thumb screws salvaged from an old Stanley #45.

Forget that idea. Just looked at the listings on ebay and the LV solution might be less expensive.

jtk

[David Weaver]

If you can make an order of a couple of oddball things, mcmaster carr carries that kind of stuff:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#knurled-head-screws/=vh9gvo

(see the "tall" knurled screws on the right - stainless might be a good choice).

Anything brass is going to be more (and they don't have tall head brass it appears)

[Steve Voigt]

If you can forgo the knurling, LV has nice thumb screws into which you could epoxy a length of threaded rod: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=68951&cat=1,43455

That is exactly what I did. Also, I know I've mentioned this before, but Hamilton marking gauges sells replacement blades that are very nice.

304360

[Jim Matthews]

Your tools look nicer than my furniture, dammit.

[Steve Voigt]

At least you get some furniture made. By the time I finish the chairs I'm working on, I won't need them--I'll be riding around shouting "I love my Rascal (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVTrJ_v1Qfw)!" :p

[Jonathan Martell]

I must have missed the "roller gage" (gauge). Now you have piqued my interest.

What is a roller gage?

Also a note on my learning on this. The next time one of these is made the mortise for the wedge will go deeper into the mortice for the beam. Currently my wedge can fall out. A deeper mortise would make for a taller bead on the wedge that would be blocked by the edge when the beam holds it up.

Not sure if this makes sense. If not, let me know if pictures would help.

jtk

The are similar to a regular marking gage, but have a small cutting wheel on the end. So instead of scraping along the wood, it rolls.

Here's one that Rockler sells for not that much money.

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-wheel-marking-gauge

[Daniel Rode]

That a tidy gauge!

I don't plan brass and the cutter is a bit different but otherwise, your's is exactly what I want to try to make. I like the brass strip but want to save that step for the future.

For the knob, did you thread the wood somehow or use an insert?


That is exactly what I did. Also, I know I've mentioned this before, but Hamilton marking gauges sells replacement blades that are very nice.

[Daniel Rode]

The knobs look perfect and they're not too expensive. I'll have to see what shakes out with shipping and minimum order.

If you can make an order of a couple of oddball things, mcmaster carr carries that kind of stuff:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#knurled-head-screws/=vh9gvo

(see the "tall" knurled screws on the right - stainless might be a good choice).

Anything brass is going to be more (and they don't have tall head brass it appears)

[Jim Koepke]

So instead of scraping along the wood, it rolls.

Tough news Jonathan, the small cutting wheel actually doesn't turn on those. This discussion came up about four years before you joined. Someone had a problem with the wheel falling off. It took awhile to figure out the problem.

The cutting wheel is like a round razor.

My three different wheel marking gages were compared in this post:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?133966-Tite-Mark-Compared-to-Veritas-Wheel-Gauge

The Rockler model looks like a good gauge for a lot of work.

If you like an adjustable model my preference is with the Tite-Mark. For me the Tite-Mark is my go to gauge. Next would be my Stanley models with modified pins.

jtk

[Steve Voigt]

That a tidy gauge!

For the knob, did you thread the wood somehow or use an insert?

Dan, I used a threaded insert.

[Jim Matthews]

Does Medicare pay on a sliding scale?
I mean, does it cost more to get performance?

304387

[Daniel Rode]

I figured I'd share the model and ask for some feedback at the same time but I'n not sure we can upload Sketchup files.

Here's a jpg of the marking gauge model. I think it's bigger and chunkier than Steve's. A different cutter would allow me to make something more elegant, but this what I've drawn so far based on the cutter's I have. A similar panel gauge is in the works as well.

304391

Tips, suggestions, criticism?

[Jonathan Martell]

Tough news Jonathan, the small cutting wheel actually doesn't turn on those. This discussion came up about four years before you joined. Someone had a problem with the wheel falling off. It took awhile to figure out the problem.

The cutting wheel is like a round razor.

My three different wheel marking gages were compared in this post:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?133966-Tite-Mark-Compared-to-Veritas-Wheel-Gauge

The Rockler model looks like a good gauge for a lot of work.

If you like an adjustable model my preference is with the Tite-Mark. For me the Tite-Mark is my go to gauge. Next would be my Stanley models with modified pins.

jtk

Thanks for the clarification on these. I was under the impression that they rolled. Maybe I'll make one that does at some point. One good thing is that they don't have to worry about play in the bushings.

[Jim Koepke]

The rolling concept may not work for something that is made to leave a line. Instead of slicing, it may just roll on the surface.

With an old Stanley Odd Jobs or a combination square a pencil leave a good visible line.

That is what gave me the idea of using a story stick with a gauge block. With a pencil, it can be used to mark out a work piece.

Of course, a knife, wheel or pin will leave a more exact line than a pencil. Often after scribing a line my pencil is sharpened and used to darken the scribed line for bandsaw cuts.

jtk

[Steve Voigt]

I figured I'd share the model and ask for some feedback at the same time but I'n not sure we can upload Sketchup files.

Here's a jpg of the marking gauge model. I think it's bigger and chunkier than Steve's. A different cutter would allow me to make something more elegant, but this what I've drawn so far based on the cutter's I have. A similar panel gauge is in the works as well.

304391

Tips, suggestions, criticism?

I'll just mention that my first gauge was more like this, and I scaled it down for the second one (which is the one I showed above), because the first is a little clunky…it still works fine of course, and I use it a lot, but the other one feels better. My fence is 13/16" thick, the beam is 3/4 wide at the top, and the fence is 2 3/8" high, just for comparison.

[Daniel Rode]

Thanks, that helps a lot. I built a prototype out of pine today and scaled it down a bit already as it was awkward to use. I may need to buy or make a different cutter. The beading blanks are a bit too large so I'm forced to use a larger beam than I want.

I'll just mention that my first gauge was more like this, and I scaled it down for the second one (which is the one I showed above), because the first is a little clunky…it still works fine of course, and I use it a lot, but the other one feels better. My fence is 13/16" thick, the beam is 3/4 wide at the top, and the fence is 2 3/8" high, just for comparison.

[Steve Voigt]

The beading blanks are a bit too large so I'm forced to use a larger beam than I want.
Do you have a dry grinder? You could just grind them narrower…

[lowell holmes]

I found the You Tube video for making the marking gage I was talking about. It is a Bob Rozaieski video


Check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avS4C5AzfJE