Vega PRO 50 table saw fence upgrade done, is LCD readout accessories worth it ????

[Mike Fusick]

Hi All,

I am pretty new here. I have an old contractor saw (30 years old?) that I am trying to modify into something a bit better. I just installed a VEGA PRO 50 fence, which is very nice!
Much better than the stock fence I replaced.

I saw someone had a LCD readout on the same fence... and it looked interesting. Any feedback on if it's a good investment? Suggestions?

[Matt Day]

I think Bill Huber has a Wixey fence readout and likes it a lot. I'd like to have one at some point.

[Scott Brandstetter]

Hello Mike, welcome to the forum. I just ordered the VEGA Pro 50 for my older contractor saw. I too am looking at the Wixed Digital readout for table saw fences but decided to wait and see how accurate the Vega is.

If you don't mind a few questions, how do you like the fence, how accurate is it, do you feel it's worth the expense? I'm trying to hold off from buying a cabinet saw but I don't want to throw good money away on trying to make the current saw something it won't be. Not sure that makes sense.

[glenn bradley]

I've had a DRO on the tablesaw for years. It has become an integral part of how I do things. I do a lot of Greene and Greene stuff and the DRO makes finger joints and all the other 'goes together like a puzzle' joinery pretty straight forward. Here it is on my old saw and then again as I moved it to the newer saw.

303910 . 303911

Its very easy to calibrate after blade changes (unless the differences in kerf width don't bother you and if they don't, who needs a DRO :D) and the incremental function (moving a specified amount from a zero point) is great for more complex joinery. They are not for everyone but, if you get one and use it very much it does become part of how you approach your work.

[Mike Fusick]

I posted a little bit more about it here:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1517994-hunting-good-table-saw-3.html#post30685417


I am really happy with the Vega PRO 50. It installed easily, it's dead nuts accurate. It's fast, easy, efficient. It slides easy; great rip capacity. The fine tune adjustment is nice, the measurements are easy to see. I bought mine on Amazon and for the price it is absolutely worth the price. This is a really nice professional grade fence.

[Mike Nguyen]

I had older version of the Wixey readout that uses the button battery and once in awhile, I had to recalibrate it but it's nice to have. When I sold the saw and got a Sawstop, I also included the Wixey with the saw and missed it a lot. When Rockler had the sale on it last year, I got the newer version which uses a AAA battery instead and all the problem with the readout being off by .2 disappeared. So if you are going to get the Wixey readout, make sure to get the one that uses the AAA battery.
Mike

[Mike Fusick]

I had older version of the Wixey readout that uses the button battery and once in awhile, I had to recalibrate it but it's nice to have. When I sold the saw and got a Sawstop, I also included the Wixey with the saw and missed it a lot. When Rockler had the sale on it last year, I got the newer version which uses a AAA battery instead and all the problem with the readout being off by .2 disappeared. So if you are going to get the Wixey readout, make sure to get the one that uses the AAA battery.
Mike

good info ! Thanks for intelligent reply.

[George Bokros]

I have the Wixey with the button battery and it is awful. It does not hold calibration and it jumps when you move the fence. I am thinking about getting the iGaging DRO. I have a thread started asking if anyone has the iGaging and how they like it. I do not know if the newer Wixey is any better. I know Bill Huber loves his, guess I am just unlucky with mine.

[Cary Falk]

I have a DRO on my planer love it. I put one on my table saw about 2 years ago and didn't like it. I have an accurate scale and cursor an am used to using it. The thing with the table saw is that I move my fence a lot and not always to cut something. Sometimes I move it to get it out of my way. Even though it doesn't take much to calibrate it, I got tired of always doing it. I also drove me crazy trying to get the measurement to the .001" by the bump method. I ended up selling it because it did not fit the way I work. I don't miss it.

[Mike Fusick]

I'm looking for feedback if it's even worth buying one ?

[David T gray]

I'm looking for feedback if it's even worth buying one ?

depends on if u think it is worth it rockler has a 20% off coupon.

[Mike Heidrick]

I'm looking for feedback if it's even worth buying one ?

Ive never had the need or desire for one personally. I can read a tape just fine and I guess I have not needed that level of readout on a TS before. If I want repeat I make a jig block and hold it against the blade when setting the fence. I put one on my 20" planer and never use it either.

[Chris Parks]

The only real advantage is repeatability and layout of things like box joints which can be planned ahead and you know the measurement before starting, dial it up and cut. They work very well with a fine adjuster on the fence, I put one on one on a slider with a fine adjuster on the fence and it gets removed over my dead body. There have been numerous issues with the early one as well as numerous issues with the Igauging version. The big thing is a DRO if accurately calibrated saves test cutting and thus time.

[glenn bradley]

It does not hold calibration and it jumps when you move the fence.

George, that unit is defective and should have been replaced under warranty. The only time mine acts irregular is when the battery is low which is once or twice a year.


I'm looking for feedback if it's even worth buying one ?

As you can tell from the responses, this will depend. I often want to be accurate within 1/32" right off the saw. I also use the saw with a much lower tolerance when I know I will be hand planing to "fit" a part. what you do and how you do it will directly influence the value of a DRO to you. If you have never wished for one, you probably aren't missing anything. If you have struggled with a rule trying to dial your fence over by 3/32", you may want to consider one ;-)

[scott spencer]

I've got a DRO on my fence.... it works well, but I really don't need that sort of precision very often, so I rarely use it. IMHO, the money spent on a DRO is far better spent on some good saw blades.

[Chris Parks]

I've got a DRO on my fence.... it works well, but I really don't need that sort of precision very often, so I rarely use it. IMHO, the money spent on a DRO is far better spent on some good saw blades.

Precision is not the point for me it is the easy no fuss repeatability, a day later I can set the fence to the same setting I had for a previous cut and it is the same with no test cutting saving material and time.

[Mike Fusick]

What's a good blade then?

[Jim Becker]

I don't have a digital readout on my saw fence, but I did put one on my J/P for the thicknessing adjustments. It works nice...when I remember to change the batteries...something I haven't done for a few years. The net of this is that the digital readouts are "nice to have", but only if you plan on actually using them. ;) For me, I suspect I wasted a little money, but at least enjoyed the process of installing it.

[scott spencer]

What's a good blade then?

It depends a lot of what you do, but some of my favorites for a smaller saw are the Infinity 010-060, Infinity Combomax Lite 010-150, Infinity Super General TK 010-045, Ridge Carbide TS2000 TK, Forrest WWII 30T, 40T or 48T TK, Tenryu Gold Medal TK, Freud LU88R010. On the bargain end, the Irwin Marples or Freud Diablo blades are a good bang for the buck. Tips for Picking Saw Blades (http://www.woodworkingchat.com/blogs/tips-for-picking-table-saw-blades/4919-tips-for-picking-saw-blades)

[Mike Fusick]

Thanks!

My saw is a 12" contractor saw with 2.5hp. It doesn't bog. I currently have only a 10" Diablo 80T blade on there now, but I like that.

[scott spencer]

Thanks!

My saw is a 12" contractor saw with 2.5hp. It doesn't bog. I currently have only a 10" Diablo 80T blade on there now, but I like that.

With that much motor, there's very little reason not to include full kerf for future purchases...

[Mike Fusick]

With that much motor, there's very little reason not to include full kerf for future purchases...

It's not a thin kerf, it's a normal. Is full kerf different than normal ?

[scott spencer]

It's not a thin kerf, it's a normal. Is full kerf different than normal ?

Nope - Full kerf, standard kerf, normal kerf....all roughly 1/8".

[Mike Fusick]

So what would be the advantage to a full kerf ?

[scott spencer]

So what would be the advantage to a full kerf ?


The advantage of full kerf over thin kerf is stability... less flutter, and better heat dissipation. It comes at the expense of requiring more power to make the same cut though, makes more noise, and creates more saw dust.

[Mike Fusick]

Makes sense thanks

[Mike Fusick]

The advantage of full kerf over thin kerf is stability... less flutter, and better heat dissipation. It comes at the expense of requiring more power to make the same cut though, makes more noise, and creates more saw dust.


Yeah I have a normal Kerf 10" Diablo ultra cut (80T) on there now. It cuts wonderfully. I have plenty of power. If I was ripping 1"+ thick hard woods I would just take it slow. Stuff like ply, and MDF rips great, which I do all the time.

[David Ragan]

I had the button battery Wixey, and from what I recall, it was more trouble than its worth on the SS.

However, I do love the Wixey DRO on my DW735. Because--it allows me to accurately reproduce a certain thickness when needed. ie, when making stuff I usually note the thickness on diffo parts, and write it down. If I have to remake a part, no problem.

Until, of course, my BF was fiddling with it and reset the scale's zero point:eek:. (Unlike the TS Wixey, he is worth the trouble:))

Again, I don't use for absolute measurements, only relative.