unisaw, I am going to look at Saturday

[cody michael]

I am going to look at a unisaw this Saturday. Is there anything to look at in particular? I will be cutting a test piece, and checking for runout? Owner says it runs good, 3hp, 220. Looks like a beismeyer fence. Price is 350!

[Cary Falk]

Pop the top and check for any cracked parts of the trunnion. The week part is where the trunnion attaches to the cabinet.

[cody michael]

Actually remove the top? How long does that take? Or just look.

I have a suburban, I am planning on taking a trailer and dolly, and wheeling it onto trailer, am I better off doing that or trying to fit it inside the suburban?

[cody michael]

From pictures can you tell if that is a beismeyer fence? Is that a good fence? Or very good/best?

[Bruce Page]

I wouldn't let anyone take the top off of my saw.:) Remove the blade and you can inspect the trunions through the opening with a hand mirror and flashlight.
Push/pull on the arbor to check for any side play in the bearings.

Yes, that is a beis.

[Mike Henderson]

Actually remove the top? How long does that take? Or just look.

I have a suburban, I am planning on taking a trailer and dolly, and wheeling it onto trailer, am I better off doing that or trying to fit it inside the suburban?
If it's like the one I have temporarily, there are four Alan socket bolts, one on each corner of the cabinet. If you remove the bolts, you can remove the top. You need a 3/8" Alan wrench to remove the bolts. But I'd prefer to move it without removing the top.

Be aware that the saw is HEAVY, even with the top removed. When I moved the one I have now (with top on), I use appliance rollers and a lift gate to get it into the truck. When I looked up the weight of the saw, I think is was about 500 pounds - that's with the top, of course, but I don't know if that includes the wings.

Also, you'll probably need to remove the Biesemeyer stuff to move it. Take a look at the Biesemeyer site and they'll have assembly instructions. Just do the opposite. Bring zip lock bags to put the hardware into.

Be prepared, bring tools. Work out the movement of the saw in your head before you get there.

Mike

[Matt Day]

And hope nobody gets there before you and buys it, that's a steal of a price with a Beis fence!

A hand truck will be helpful too. You should be able to put the saw against the back of the truck (use some heavy cardboard or moving blanket in between), and pivot the saw into the suburban. Thats assuming the truck is tall enough to handle the flip, if not, when it gets horizontal, push it in. A piece of plywood in the truck will help it slide. This is easily done with two people, with the extension wings and fence removed.

[Charles Lent]

The best way that I've moved them either with a trailer or pickup truck is to first remove the fence and side tables and then position saw at the tailgate. Put padding (moving pad or cardboard) on the trailer or pickup bed and then rotate the saw so it ends up upside down in the bed of the vehicle. Use the table part of the saw, resting on the edge of the vehicle bed as the pivot point and don't try to lift the saw. This takes 2 people, one on each side. It's top heavy, so it will ride better upside down anyway. Tie it down good so it can't move. If you want it further forward it will slide well on the cardboard or a moving pad. Just make sure you have enough padding. Again, tie it down good. You don't want the table surface rubbing on the truck or trailer bed. When it arrives at the new location, just reverse the process to get it unloaded. Again, don't try to pick it up.

Charley

[Randy Red Bemont]

I wouldn't let anyone take the top off of my saw.:) Remove the blade and you can inspect the trunions through the opening with a hand mirror and flashlight.
Push/pull on the arbor to check for any side play in the bearings.

Yes, that is a beis.

My thoughts exactly. Just bring a small flashlight to look around. Its a good saw at a steal price if you can plug it in and it starts. Unless he is holding it for you it should be gone already for that price! You will probably want some help loading it she will be heavy pulling up onto the trailer. Good luck and I hope you get it.

Red

[cody michael]

The owner did a horrible job of advertising, he had it listed with a bunch of other junk in list and 1 bad picture, I called on it and got better pics, he said he is holding it. The saw is about 2 hrs away and I work during the week. That's why I am going Saturday. I'm hoping it all works out

[Ralph Y Thorne]

The angle iron brackets that hold the fence to the saw are not shown in the pictures. The right side extension table is also not shown.

[Jamie Buxton]

If you do take the top off the saw, look out for shims between the top and the base. Reinstall each in the same location when you reinstall the top. The shims align the top to the saw blade when the blade is tilted a long way away from vertical.

[Jim Andrew]

Looks like my 04 model, and mine does not have the right hand cast iron extension. I have the long rails, and the laminate table is just that much bigger. That is a steal, don't let the right extension table mess it up.

[cody michael]

The best way that I've moved them either with a trailer or pickup truck is to first remove the fence and side tables and then position saw at the tailgate. Put padding (moving pad or cardboard) on the trailer or pickup bed and then rotate the saw so it ends up upside down in the bed of the vehicle. Use the table part of the saw, resting on the edge of the vehicle bed as the pivot point and don't try to lift the saw. This takes 2 people, one on each side. It's top heavy, so it will ride better upside down anyway. Tie it down good so it can't move. If you want it further forward it will slide well on the cardboard or a moving pad. Just make sure you have enough padding. Again, tie it down good. You don't want the table surface rubbing on the truck or trailer bed. When it arrives at the new location, just reverse the process to get it unloaded. Again, don't try to pick it up.

Charley

I think this makes sense, I will try it. the trailer I have is very low, it also tilts, so shouldn't be hard to get it in.

the seller says he has all the hardware for the fence, I will look at it when I get there. I am not sure about the right side table part, I am assuming he has it but if not I can make my own correct? its just a sheet of melanine?

I have a delta contractor 2000 series saw. It has a nice mobile base I really like, does anyone have any idea if the unisaw would fit on it?

[Charles Lent]

I think you will be better off not tilting the trailer if you plan to flip it onto the trailer bed. The more you tip the saw, the heavier it's going to get for the 2 people doing it. A pickup, like a Ford F100 or similar is just about the ideal height. You don't have to tip it much to get the edge of the top to touch the bed. Then it's relatively to use this point as the hinge and to hold some of the weight while you and your partner lift the bottom and rotate it vertically onto the truck or trailer bed. If your trailer is a lot lower than this kind of pickup, you and your helper are going to have to hold more of the weight as you tilt and lower the top of the saw table onto the trailer. The cabinet is just sheet metal. All the weight is in the top, the motor, and the mechanical parts just under the table. Much of this is cast iron, and VERY HEAVY. Oh, but all of this grunt work will be quickly forgotten when you begin cutting wood with it. You will wonder why you lived with those other saws all this time, just like I did when I got mine, a 1987 Unisaw with a 52" Unifence.

Charley

[mark kosse]

the seller says he has all the hardware for the fence, I will look at it when I get there. I am not sure about the right side table part, I am assuming he has it but if not I can make my own correct? its just a sheet of melanine?

Very few unis of that vintage had a r side ci extension. The fence needed a longer table so they stopped proving the right ci wing. If he doesn't have one build a table.

I have a delta contractor 2000 series saw. It has a nice mobile base I really like, does anyone have any idea if the unisaw would fit on it?[/QUOTE]

It'll fit, it'll just be a little bigger than the uni base is.

[Rick Potter]

Sweet deal. I notice that it is also a left tilt model.

As others have noted, my Uni with the long fence had no wing on the right side, just a longer table.

[Mike Goetzke]

I am going to look at a unisaw this Saturday. Is there anything to look at in particular? I will be cutting a test piece, and checking for runout? Owner says it runs good, 3hp, 220. Looks like a beismeyer fence. Price is 350!

About a year ago I picked up a 1950's Uni for a gloat better than yours in our Suburban (but I paid as much for a cast "goose egg" cover as I did for the saw). I had two 2x10's that were laying around in the shop (and some 2x4 shorties). Loading was easier than I thought it would be. The edge of the cast top was almost in perfect alignment with the bed of the Suburban with the 2x10's sticking out over the bumper. My son sat on the 2x10's in the truck and the seller and I pivoted the saw on the cast top and 2x10's lifted the base and slid it in on the boards. I only had a 30 min trip. I read later that the motor should be removed if you put it on it's side.

I ended up completely restoring mine including the bullet motor - probably the most fun I had on a project. I did find a few parts missing and found replacements although they did't prevent the saw from running. One thing that was a shocker at first was that the arbor bracket assembly was at some time cracked and weld repaired. Found out this is a common failure and upon further inspection the gears looked great. So maybe at lease get in there and look at the trunions and this bracket.

Good Luck!

[cody michael]

Sweet deal. I notice that it is also a left tilt model.

As others have noted, my Uni with the long fence had no wing on the right side, just a longer table.

is there any benefit of left tilt vs right tilt?

is there any need to remove motor if it is upside down? I have about 2 hour car drive? in a trailer is my plan. I don't want to struggle with trying to get it into the suburban.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

is there any benefit of left tilt vs right tilt?

board doesn't get trapped under the blade on a left tilt if I remember correctly. (nasty kickback)

[cody michael]

TThe roads are still a little icey up here, I am thinking about just putting the saw in the back of my suburban, I think it would fit, any advice on how hard it would be to get it in there? It's about the same height as a medium size truck.

Someone posted you should remove the motor if saw is on its side. Is that true? Any other things to be aware of?

The opening in suburban is 50 by 36. It has a tail gate like a truck and a window that opens up, it is about a 2 hour trip


Any input on whether I should take trailer?

[Dimitrios Fradelakis]

I brought my Unisaw home in the back of my Tralblazer and the help of a friend. Put a piece of thick cardboard against the back of the trunk right where the trunk latch is and tipped the saw on to that. The cardboard was long enough where the saw slid with ease in to my truck. The ride home was almost 2 hours and I didn't bother to remove the motor or top. Unloading it was a bit more tedious but not impossible. A furniture dolly helped in wheeling it to my truck from the sellers garage and to my garage once home.

Here it is in the back of my Trailblazer upon leaving the sellers home. The towel was to make sure it didn't rub against the trunk.

[Mike Goetzke]

TThe roads are still a little icey up here, I am thinking about just putting the saw in the back of my suburban, I think it would fit, any advice on how hard it would be to get it in there? It's about the same height as a medium size truck.

Someone posted you should remove the motor if saw is on its side. Is that true? Any other things to be aware of?

The opening in suburban is 50 by 36. It has a tail gate like a truck and a window that opens up, it is about a 2 hour trip


Any input on whether I should take trailer?

Read my post #18.

[cody michael]

Read my post #18.

What us the reasoning behind removing motor? I don't want to hurt saw, but I don't want to waste time either. How important is it to remove it? It sounds like 2 people on here transported it without issue.

[Mike Goetzke]

What us the reasoning behind removing motor? I don't want to hurt saw, but I don't want to waste time either. How important is it to remove it? It sounds like 2 people on here transported it without issue.

I would think just to get the load off the pulley but you can do this by putting a board between the motor and the cabinet (and messing with the blade height) to take the tension off the belts. It is easier than you think - be careful it comes out much easier/quicker than it went in. I maneuvered the two 2x10's to act as a ramp to get it out.

Good Luck - expect pictures Saturday!

[Charles Lent]

board doesn't get trapped under the blade on a left tilt if I remember correctly. (nasty kickback)

But if you make these problem cuts on the opposite (left) side of a right tilt saw this is a non issue.

Charley

[alan tasoff]

I bought one of these used about 20 years ago, and had it moved on a landscaper-trailer (very low). He was able to back the trailer up to the overhead door of my garage, and we moved it in somehow without any roller device. Since then, it was moved again , the same way. I did not have to dissemble anything, or turn it upside down. Can not imagine getting it into a pickup truck. I am sure it weighs at least 500 lbs. Have been using it as a hobbiest for 20 years, and it is still perfect.

[Matt Day]

Regarding putting the saw into your suburban, see my earlier post where I talked about this.

You Will have no problem. My saw fits in my Subaru Forester. I Did not remove the motor.

[cody michael]

I got the saw, the table top needs cleaned, it's a little rusty but not bad, everything seems to work. 8 have the bies fence only came with one piece of angle iron, I was looking online and it seems like some sets have 2 some only have 1, is it good to have the second one? I think I have some 1/8 by 2in angle so I could make something to work.


It didn't come with the wood extension table, I am going to build one, I found some very basic plans in the bies manual. Does anyone have any better guides? I am planning on going to the store to try and find something that will work for the wood. Does it need to be anything special or just plastic topped particle board?

[Carroll Courtney]

Congrats Cody,my fence has both but why?The one on the back serves no purpose,looks like just a good cleaning and you will be ready to go.Get ya one of those razor blade scrapers and clean the top,then maybe a good fine sandpaper with some WD40 should get it nice again----Carroll

[Thomas Hotchkin]

I got the saw, the table top needs cleaned, it's a little rusty but not bad, something to work.



Try Barkeeper Friend works great on removing rust.

[cody michael]

The only thing I would think is the back rail is just extra support for the extension table.

[Bruce Page]

You are correct, it's nice to have the angle to help support the crosscut table but not required. You could always buy a piece of 2" X 2-1/2" angle iron and make your own.

I made my outfeed table out of melamine covered particle board and it has stood up well. Make sure you have a good frame under it to keep it from sagging.

Congrats on the Uni. I love mine.

[Scott Ticknor]

Probably the last saw you will need, you did well. I have a Beismeyer fence on my 1978 Unisaw ,the rear angle bar supports the right side extension table. I went out to the shop, rear bar is the same length as the front.These fence systems were a direct replacement for many saws and greatly increased repeatable accuracy . Congrats on a great purchase !

[cody michael]

Ok I think I have a piece of angle iron in my barn, I am going to the store shortly to look for the top, I have Hardwood at home to use for frame.

[cody michael]

Thanks what what I intend is to keep it for a long time, I would consider a saw stop but that's 10 times what I paid for this unisaw!

Thanks for info on the angle.


Probably the last saw you will need, you did well. I have a Beismeyer fence on my 1978 Unisaw ,the rear angle bar supports the right side extension table. I went out to the shop, rear bar is the same length as the front.These fence systems were a direct replacement for many saws and greatly increased repeatable accuracy . Congrats on a great purchase !

[alan tasoff]

I moved this machine twice using a landscaper-type trailer (very low to the ground). It was not necessary to dismantle anything or to put it on its side. I bought mine 25 years ago, used, USA manufactured, and it is still perfect.

[Rick Potter]

My wood Uni table is particle board with Formica on it. Download a Uni manual and it probably shows how it is made.

[cody michael]

the angle and blade height gears need cleaned, they kinda squeak or squeal, is there some type of lubricant that works best? i know I don't want anything that could become sticky. I have "glidecoat" would that work? or is there someone else that would be better?

[cody michael]

The saw came with very long rails, I this 82 inches, I can't imagine every needing to cut anything over 48 inches, I think my current saw is about 50-60 inches is there any issue with cutting the rails down? I am thinking of around the 60 inch range, as that is what would work best for my mobile base.

Does anyone have pictures or plans of how you attach fence to the table saw? How do you make sure it is exactly right height?

[Mike Henderson]

The saw came with very long rails, I this 82 inches, I can't imagine every needing to cut anything over 48 inches, I think my current saw is about 50-60 inches is there any issue with cutting the rails down? I am thinking of around the 60 inch range, as that is what would work best for my mobile base.

Does anyone have pictures or plans of how you attach fence to the table saw? How do you make sure it is exactly right height?
The rails are not all on one side of the blade. Some of the rail extends over to the left side of the blade so you get about 52" of cut on the right side. The tube is longer than 52" on the right side because the fence has to extend out further than 52".

Go to the Biesemeyer site and I believe they have instructions for attaching the angle iron and the tube to the saw. It's not difficult.

Mike

[Use a dry lubricant on the bearing surfaces inside the saw. There was another thread where people made suggestions for the lubricant but I don't remember.]

[Dimitrios Fradelakis]

the angle and blade height gears need cleaned, they kinda squeak or squeal, is there some type of lubricant that works best? i know I don't want anything that could become sticky. I have "glidecoat" would that work? or is there someone else that would be better?


Clean the dust and any crud from the gears and use Johnsons Paste Wax on them. An old tooth brush works well for this.

[Kevin McCluney]

I bought a piece of granite for the extension table on my Delta hybrid saw. I would have used it with the Unisaw that replaced the hybrid except the granite piece wasn't wide enough (and the Unisaw came with a table). The granite stays flat and is impervious to anything spilled on it (looks pretty spiffy, too).

[cody michael]

I bought a piece of granite for the extension table on my Delta hybrid saw. I would have used it with the Unisaw that replaced the hybrid except the granite piece wasn't wide enough (and the Unisaw came with a table). The granite stays flat and is impervious to anything spilled on it (looks pretty spiffy, too).

Where did you buy it from? How much did it cost? That sounds like a cool idea

[Kevin McCluney]

I got it from a tile store that sold flooring and countertops. It cost $125, but that was ~10 years ago.

304031
I kept the cabinet and granite top when I sold the saw - I replaced the leveling feet with casters and it rolls under the Unisaw's extension. I roll it out when I need the extra work surface. It's tempting to replace the Unisaw's extension with granite.

[cody michael]

I really like that idea, I'm gonna call around tomorrow to see if I can find something

My cast iron top has some scratches/wear marks, could I sand it a little to remove them without messing stuff up? Or should I just use steel wool to remove rust and call it good?

[Matt Day]

Granite is pretty cool!

I'd suggest Corian though if you can get it - you can easily cut it with ww'ing tools unlike granite.

[Mike Goetzke]

I would start out with cleaning and tuning up your new saw. Think about what you want to do with the table board area. I built a cabinet with a router in it but many just have a flat table. Granite may not be best but I wanted some granite inserts for a grill cabinet I recently built and someone suggested looking for "free" or "remnant" granite on Craigslist and sure enough I found three places. Ended up with a perfect size piece that I cut in three pieced with a stone cutting blade in my circ saw.

For cleaning the top here is some info:

This is how I have cleaned CI tops:

1) clean w/ Greased Lightening
2) Flood the top w/ WD-40
3) use a gray Scotchbrite pad under my 1/4-sheet finish sander
4) apply T-9
5) apply a couple coats of Johnson's paste wax


I also found this a while back:

"Dave's dirty dozen"
1) Scrape as much of the sludge as you can off with cardboard from the shipping container or a plastic scraper.
2) Use Simple Green right out of the container and tons of paper towels to get the rest off.
3) Wash off the Simple Green with more paper towels and clear water. Dry off with even more paper towels.
4) Spray the top down liberally with WD40. The WD in WD40 stands for Water Displacing, by the way.
5) Take a finishing sander, like a Porter-Cable 330, and put it on a ScotchBrite green pad. Random Orbital will work, but makes a **** of a mess.
6) Sand the top evenly until you feel like you've "massaged" the WD40 in very well. This also will knock some sharp spots off your top, a good thing.
7) Take even more paper towels, and wipe the top until dry. It will feel slightly oily.
8) Using a quality furniture paste wax (Johnson's, Minwax, Butcher's, whatever is available in your area), wax the top thoroughly and allow to dry.
9) Wipe off the bulk of the excess wax with paper towels.
10) Wax it again.
11) Buff well with paper towels.
12) Last step. Take a piece of wood with straight edges, and rub the surface of the saw in the direction of cut with the wood, as though you were cross-cutting it.
It's a **** sight more steps than "wash off with kerosene", which is what all the manuals say. But, it leaves a top that is seriously ready for work, and won't need to be screwed with every couple months. I rewax my tops e

very year or two, and they ain't rusty...

I'm sure others will have other suggestions, too...