Jim Koepke
01-07-2015, 2:56 AM
My current plan is to make more cabinets like my wife's tea cabinet to sell at the farmers market. To me the molding really makes for a stand out detail adding a lot to the finished piece.
The selection of wood for molding takes the grain into consideration more than for many other projects. Small spots of tear out can be sanded and made to blend in. A lot of tear out is hard to sand away. For me it is easier to cut a profile into the edge of a piece and then rip it on the bandsaw than it is to work with smaller pieces and a sticking board. The next molding face usually doesn't need to be planed after cutting since it will get planed as the molding is made. The back side of the molding will need planing to sit smoothly against the case of the cabinet.
My Record #778 rabbet plane has some slight modifications:
303630
A rosewood runner has been added to the fence. The depth stop used to catch a lot of splinters from the shavings. To prevent this the edge of the stop at the blade was rounded over with a file. It works great this way.
The rabbet plane is used here to make a step & batten for the hollowing plane:
303628
When using fenced planes it is important to check your set up before actually starting the cuts. Make sure you will not be running a plane's fence, our your own knuckles into the vise or any other holding devices. It doesn't show in any of these images but there is a hold fast opposite the vise end of the work piece. The work piece rests on this and is held steady against the front of the bench.
The cove is cut before the bead:
303629
The cove is cut first to avoid scratching the edge of the bead with the hollowing plane. Often one works starting at the side farthest from the fence or the worker. The order of the cutting may need to be determined on a case by case basis.
A Stanley #45 is used to cut the bead:
303626
With the multi-planes it is usually easier to start at the end and work back to the beginning. It establishes a track that gets lengthened with just about every stroke. It may not make sense, but it works.
This bead is cut to leave no quirk at what is the top in this picture. For the cabinet it will be on the bottom and top.
The shavings are left on the bench on purpose. My picture of me rubbing shavings all over the molding didn't come out to well:
303627
This is a trick that may be as old as woodworking itself. It can get rid of minor fuzziness and it shines up the surface a bit:
303624
Finally the piece is marked to be ripped:
303625
The edge of the cove is marked to be cut and end up flush with the front edge of the cabinet door.
It will be awhile before the cabinet is ready for molding. My plan is to revive this thread at that time for the mitering and the attaching to the cabinet. Or maybe do a thread on making the cabinet including attaching the molding.
jtk
The selection of wood for molding takes the grain into consideration more than for many other projects. Small spots of tear out can be sanded and made to blend in. A lot of tear out is hard to sand away. For me it is easier to cut a profile into the edge of a piece and then rip it on the bandsaw than it is to work with smaller pieces and a sticking board. The next molding face usually doesn't need to be planed after cutting since it will get planed as the molding is made. The back side of the molding will need planing to sit smoothly against the case of the cabinet.
My Record #778 rabbet plane has some slight modifications:
303630
A rosewood runner has been added to the fence. The depth stop used to catch a lot of splinters from the shavings. To prevent this the edge of the stop at the blade was rounded over with a file. It works great this way.
The rabbet plane is used here to make a step & batten for the hollowing plane:
303628
When using fenced planes it is important to check your set up before actually starting the cuts. Make sure you will not be running a plane's fence, our your own knuckles into the vise or any other holding devices. It doesn't show in any of these images but there is a hold fast opposite the vise end of the work piece. The work piece rests on this and is held steady against the front of the bench.
The cove is cut before the bead:
303629
The cove is cut first to avoid scratching the edge of the bead with the hollowing plane. Often one works starting at the side farthest from the fence or the worker. The order of the cutting may need to be determined on a case by case basis.
A Stanley #45 is used to cut the bead:
303626
With the multi-planes it is usually easier to start at the end and work back to the beginning. It establishes a track that gets lengthened with just about every stroke. It may not make sense, but it works.
This bead is cut to leave no quirk at what is the top in this picture. For the cabinet it will be on the bottom and top.
The shavings are left on the bench on purpose. My picture of me rubbing shavings all over the molding didn't come out to well:
303627
This is a trick that may be as old as woodworking itself. It can get rid of minor fuzziness and it shines up the surface a bit:
303624
Finally the piece is marked to be ripped:
303625
The edge of the cove is marked to be cut and end up flush with the front edge of the cabinet door.
It will be awhile before the cabinet is ready for molding. My plan is to revive this thread at that time for the mitering and the attaching to the cabinet. Or maybe do a thread on making the cabinet including attaching the molding.
jtk