Laguna driftmaster fence

[Joe Cowan]

I am considering buying this fence for my Laguna 14SUV bandsaw. Anyone have this fence and have thoughts that may help me make the decision? I am a serious hobbyist and resaw now to a line. I want to up my game and am considering this.

[Mike Heidrick]

Its super sweet once installed. Easy to adjust to any blade. I love the high low design of teh fence - in fact I want the taller add on for mine. Cons - Not easy to remove. Install is trivial but your 14 might be ready for it.

I added mine to a MM20.

I would not pass on other tool wants for it if you dont have your bases covered as it is a very luxary add on. If you are good like that (already own a router lift for example lol) go for it.

[glenn bradley]

I am in full realization that this is only my opinion and that there are others who feel strongly another way. I have always been able to adjust my saws so that they track true; 10", 12", multiple 14" and 17" saws. This setting holds with blade changes and I change blade sizes with impunity. I would investigate what is causing your tracking problem before I threw money at a cure for the symptoms as opposed to the cause. I should add that I do not run carbide tooth blades and I understand that the tension requirements for these (and bi-metals, etc.) are higher. This may lead to the tracking issues but, this is pure supposition on my part and I apologize in advance if I am talking through my hat :).

[Rod Sheridan]

I'm with Glenn, you don't adjust the fence for tracking, you use the tracking adjustent on the saw for that.

I'm not sure where the idea of adjusting the guide ( fence) came from, as now your mitre gauge would be screwed up.

Could you imagine moving the log carriage tracks back and forth in a sawmill everytime you changed the blade?

Regards, Rod.

[Jim Matthews]

While the Driftmaster is marketed to handle misalignment,
I'm with the Big Dogs above, it's more about the set up of
the blade than the fence.

That said, I find that resawing with the Driftmaster is a breeze,
particularly with the larger auxiliary fence.

I use an alternate method, keeping the one reference face and edge
against the fence and table - advancing the fence a given thickness after each cut.

I have a Rockler 'thin rip' jig set up to make sure I get to the same set up point
each time.

Each turn of the screw advances the fence a heavy 1/64" - if I recall.
I don't use it that way - I just release the thread locking pawl
and slide the works over until it touches the thin rip jig.

I like mine, but I'm not convinced it's the last word in resawing fences.
It was less money than making something for myself.

Convenience is worth something, to me.

[Julie Moriarty]

I bought this for my Jet 18" bandsaw and did a thread here http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?199770-The-Laguna-Driftmaster-Thread

Since then I will add that I have rarely used the "drift" feature of the fence system. I love the fences, I have the tall fence too. But I bought the system because I had a lot of resawing to do and thought drift may be a problem with my bandsaw. It wasn't.

Once everything was set up, I set the bandsaw as perfect as I could and bought a Lenox carbide blade designed for the lumber dimensions and wood I would be cutting and never used the drift feature.

The adjustment handles are a bit awkward too. There are so many, I have to look at which one I need to adjust before I do. But if they have redesigned the system since I bought mine, this may not be an issue.

All in all, I've done a lot of resawing with this fence and it works, but I think most of that was my anal approach and not the fence system.

[Clay Fails]

I purchased the driftmaster when i got my LT16HD. I also git the taller resaw fence. It's a very nice setup and performs as advertised. However, if I had it to do over again I would retain the OEM fence and keep my cash. It's nice, but certainly nit essential to good results. The Laguna saw when oroperly setup with a good blade cuts dead true.

[Erik Loza]

Never used one, so can't speak to it firsthand, but a good number of my customers told me they have added it to their MM16's and MM20's and speak highly of it.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I put one on my 36" Oliver when they first came out. Agree with the "forget about the drift" guys. I bought it because it was a nice fence, not for the drift adjustment, and I'd do it again.

[Bill Huber]

Joe, I have a Jet 14" and I have never had a problem with drift as been stated above it is all in the set up.

I don't know if your saw has crowned wheels or not but I do think that crowned wheels make a big difference.

[Joe Cowan]

I have drift problems when I get to wider boards. I quit using the fence I have and have started drawing a line and cutting to that. I have the 1" blade that came with the Laguna saw. I like the saw, but am inexperienced with resawing.

[Carl Carew]

I have the driftmaster on my 18 inch Laguna saw. This saw replaced a 14 inch delta with a riser block that I had for 25 years and used extensively to cut out decoy and other carving blanks. The saw was great for this but could never get a satisfactory resaw operation with it tried numerous articles different blades etc but even or six inch thick wood was a problem. Bought the Laguna from a Creeker several years ago and it came with the Driftmaster and several high quality resaw blades. The beast is a dream for resawing. I agree with Julie about the fence there are many adjustments and several times I have loosened the wrong knob when I am in a hurry. The saw tracks beautifully I don't think I really utilize the "tracking" features of the fence but thickness adjustment is very simple and easy. The table is big enough that I can usually slide it all the way to the side instead of having to remove it. As to the value vs cost it was part of the package and also came with both high and regular fence, so I don't know how much it costs separately but I am very happy and totally pleased with the saw and fence.

[David Ragan]

Mine was attached to a Rikon, I believe 18-20". In my naivete, I thought that the guide bearings were to, well, keep the blade from wandering too much.

So, I was doing some veneering @ the time, and got the Driftmaster. I would saw a 4-5 inches of wood, eyeball the blade in the kerf, adjust the fence; and got A-1 results with the Driftmaster.

Now, with my MM-16, I have not resawed anything tall enough to matter, but I still eyeball the kerf with the blade in some scrap @ the end of a sample cut beforehand sometimes. Some day I will get around to installing the Driftmaster on the MM-16.

Now, you all say that the guide bearings ought to be adjusted to keep the saw blade perfectly parallel to the long axis of the cut, to avoid ripples?

Wouldn't that require both the top and bottom guide bearings to keep the blade right?

Aren't we supposed to leave the thickness of a dollar bill clearance b/t the blade and bearings?

I don't understand. All this time, I thought just making a 3-4" kerf in a scrap, stop the blade in the kerf, go around to the back and adjust the fence so the blade is exactly parallel in the sawed kerf. Have I been doing it wrong all this time.

The MM-16 is a great piece of equipment-but you put a blade on it (I have a Resaw King 1.25" on it), and then you use the guide bearings to nudge/hold the blade exact?

[Ron Kanter]

David,
I am a little late to this thread, but there are a couple of things you mention that I think should be addressed.
First, the MM16 is not designed to handle a 1.25 carbide blade. It will not allow you to get enough tension to properly run that wide a blade.
Second, the MM16 when properly setup with lots of tension and the right blade does not drift. To quote one of the earlier responders, "I'm with the Big Dogs above, it's more about the set up of the blade than the fence." I have a Lennox 3/4" blade on my MM16; there is NO DRIFT. The blade guides will not prevent drift, either. Check with the folks at MiniMax. They will help you get the right setup and the right blade for resawing on your MM16. Erik Loza, who posted to this thread earlier, is a great guy and very helpful. Send him a note.
I am not an expert on bandsaws or resawing, but I have a MM16 and successfully resaw without drift. The Driftmaster is a useful tool, but as many in this thread have already stated, the drift correction is the least important feature because it is rarely used.
HTH,
Ron

[Eric DeSilva]

I put one on my 36" Oliver when they first came out. Agree with the "forget about the drift" guys. I bought it because it was a nice fence, not for the drift adjustment, and I'd do it again.

Exactly.

That said, I've got a 14SUV and it was included as a bonus when I bought the saw--not sure I would have spend that much otherwise. I will tell you that the fence is not ideal for the 14SUV, however--it is a PITA to install on a smaller BS and it doesn't hang quite right. If I can remember, I'll try to take a video of what I'm talking about and email it to you if you PM me with your email address.

[ed vitanovec]

I have one on my Rikon 18" and really like it, I recommend one.

[Erik Loza]

...the MM16 is not designed to handle a 1.25 carbide blade. It will not allow you to get enough tension to properly run that wide a blade.

Ron, just curious: Have you had problems running a 1.25 " carbide on your MM16? I've run countless 1.0" Lenox carbides on MM16's and never had a tensioning issue but yet to run a 1.25" because it always felt to me like that extra 1/4" didn't really seem to help performance or cut quality, so it cost was more $$$ for no real benefit. At least on a 16" machine. But I'm curious to hear from someone who has tried the 1.25" on the MM16.

Erik

[Steven Satur]

I thought it was super sweet too until I got one that was defective, and did not know it until I drilled out my table and installed it. Then come to find out the bad piece was not in stock, and was told 6-8 weeks for the part. I guess you know I sent it back. I put a Powermatic on the saw, which is like a table saw fence and it works great.

[Ron Kanter]

Erik,
My comment was based on two things:
First, a statement in the MM manual that says "Carbide blades are a powerful addition to resaw capability but must be suited to the saw.For example, the 1” wide carbide blade offered by Mini Max is not recommended for the MM16 because the smaller wheel radius flexes and work hardens the blade leading to premature breakage before dulling." Maybe this is outdated advice and metals have improved since the manual was written, but if a 1" carbide blade is not recommended, what does that suggest about a 1.25" blade.
Second, I have a 3/4" Lennox Trimaster on my MM16. It cuts very good veneer - not glass smooth surfaces, but very good. When I tension the blade it feels like I am at the end of the available travel/tension adjustment on the machine. This makes me think that there would not be enough adjustment available for a 1.25" blade. If I have misinterpreted the mechanics, please correct me.
I don't want to be one of those guys who offers advice or opinions on the Internet that is worth exactly what it costs the reader :eek:
Please let us know what your much greater experience suggests.
Thanks,
Ron

[Erik Loza]

Erik,
My comment was based on two things:
First, a statement in the MM manual that says "Carbide blades are a powerful addition to resaw capability but must be suited to the saw.For example, the 1” wide carbide blade offered by Mini Max is not recommended for the MM16 because the smaller wheel radius flexes and work hardens the blade leading to premature breakage before dulling." Maybe this is outdated advice and metals have improved since the manual was written, but if a 1" carbide blade is not recommended, what does that suggest about a 1.25" blade.
Second, I have a 3/4" Lennox Trimaster on my MM16. It cuts very good veneer - not glass smooth surfaces, but very good. When I tension the blade it feels like I am at the end of the available travel/tension adjustment on the machine. This makes me think that there would not be enough adjustment available for a 1.25" blade. If I have misinterpreted the mechanics, please correct me.
I don't want to be one of those guys who offers advice or opinions on the Internet that is worth exactly what it costs the reader :eek:
Please let us know what your much greater experience suggests.
Thanks,
Ron

Thanks Ron.

Yeah, that manual is good but it was written when the MM series was in its infancy and more importantly, when carbide blades were in their infancy. I have never been able to verify this officially but the rumor is that Lenox reformulated their steel backing stock for the Tri-Masters in the early 2000's, making the blades more flexible. I can tell you that I have shipped literally hundreds of 1.0" Lenox Tri-masters over the years to MM16 owners and have yet to hear of one fatiguing and cracking at the gullets. I've seen bad welds and damaged blades from mis-use, but none of the cracking issues that got bounced around the internet.

Getting back to your machine, could the blade be too long? Something like 1/2" will make a huge difference. You should be able to tension any blade on an MM16 to the point where it will snap before the spring bottoms out (don't ask me how I know this...).

Erik

[Chris Padilla]

Great fence...a nice upgrade for your bandsaw. I installed one on my MM20.

[Rich Riddle]

I like the Driftmaster fence and installed it as an upgrade to an inferior fence system. It does seem true that it's best not to use it as a substitute for good tracking of the blade with the saw's controls. I more-or-less use the Driftmaster for fine tuning if that makes sense.