Need Ideas For Attaching Replacement Crank Handles

[Eric Sayre]

I've collected several old Millers Falls and Goodell Pratt "eggbeater" drills to refurbish for my sons. Some have missing or torn up handles, so I'm making new ones.

I'm looking for a way to replace the fasteners for the crank handles, which appear to be a type of rivet. The handle will have to be loose in order to turn, but not too loose. For many obvious reasons I don't want to use a nut & bolt.

Is anyone familiar with a fastening system that will function and appear the same as an original fastener and where to order it? This hardware can be steel, brass, or even aluminum. I want it to be functional and look professional.


Thank you for your help!
Eric

[Mel Miller]

If the original handles with steel pins didn't stand the test of time I don't think brass or aluminum will hold up at all. Better to make some new steel pins as needed and install them as the original for the best look. This will probably require a metal lathe.
You may also want to evaluate the cost of buying another good intact drill vs the effort required to fix the damaged ones.

[bridger berdel]

Turn the new handles to fit the existing pin. Use straight grain riven wood. Take them to the point of sanding on the lathe. Split the handle and reglue over the pin. Resand by hand and finish.

[Eric Sayre]

If the original handles with steel pins didn't stand the test of time I don't think brass or aluminum will hold up at all. Better to make some new steel pins as needed and install them as the original for the best look. This will probably require a metal lathe.
You may also want to evaluate the cost of buying another good intact drill vs the effort required to fix the damaged ones.

Actually, the original pins/fasteners are still okay. I would need to remove them and since they are one-piece, I wouldn't be able to repair or reuse them. You have a point about making them on a metal lathe - I may ask around to see if any of my machinist friends would be willing to take on a new project. :)

[Mel Miller]

If the pins are OK, then by all means go with Bridger's idea.

[Winton Applegate]

And they tell me I am over the top every time I suggest buying a three thousand dollar lathe to fix a ten cent part.
Ha, ha, ha
Well they are right after all of coarse but one must consider the fun and coolness factor. Metal lathes are cool and FUN !

but . . . since some one beat me to the lathe suggestion . . .
try this (http://www.amazon.com/Copper-Finish-MS20435-0-215-0-235-Diameter/dp/B00DIEZYOC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420409640&sr=8-4&keywords=solid+rivets)

here is another (http://www.amazon.com/The-Hillman-Group-1278-In/dp/B0032H12CS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1420409640&sr=8-9&keywords=solid+rivets)

There are malleable solid steel rivets similar to the copper one, I have used them, but did not find on amazon. Look at a local hardware store.

Here is one fastener you might use (http://www.amazon.com/The-Hillman-Group-180147-100-Pack/dp/B000B4GU90/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420410232&sr=8-2&keywords=1+4+inch+bolts+and+nuts). The plastic ring on the end makes it turn hard so won't come loose. Works well but a bit bulky.

Use on a screw with a smooth section (http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Bolt-00030-Zinc-Plated-100-Count/dp/B002P9KOPU/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1420410582&sr=8-37&keywords=1+4+inch+bolts+and+nuts) on it of the right length (this one is too long but you get the idea).

Or you could just use a regular nut rather than the nylock and after putting on a washer and regular nut pean the end of the bolt with the opposite end of the bolt on a block of concert, heavy steel or other super immovable thing so you really get a solid hit. I have a twenty five dollar pair of 4” inch Snap On pliers that are put together in that exact same way. A regular style bolt with the end peened so the regular nut won’t come off.

[Eric Sayre]

Thank you for the suggestions!

I have plenty of nuts and bolts, even low profile nuts and locking nuts. Unfortunately, there is very little to no clearance. However, the rivet fasteners look promising. I will have to do some research and lots of practice in order to crimp/peen the ends while still maintaining the proper amount of "play" in the handle.

Many times I have entertained the idea of purchasing a $3,000 dollar metal lathe for something like this. Unfortunately, I have a bad habit of justifying tools the wrong way. I would figure out how to make a $3,000 lathe pay for itself, but I would end up with a $15,000 dollar one that's better - along with $15,000 worth of accessories, then start 25 new "around the house" projects within a week. It's a good thing I don't have any tool money laying around, ha ha ha!

Thanks again for the suggestions, and keep them coming!