Workbench help wanted

[Dan Forman]

I want to attach a skirt to my workbench to conceal the innards of the solid core door top, and also to contain the 1/2" MDF cover. The rather funky plywood core is only about 1/2 deep, then gives way to fairly coarse particle board. There is no plywood strip on the back of the top, just particle board.

My question then, is what would be the best method of attaching the skirt, which will be some nice figured maple. I have a plate joiner (which I have not yet used) but don't know how that would work with the particle board back section. Could glue and screw, then cover with plugs I suppose, any other ideas?

Here is a pic of the top with MDF cover (not yet fastened down).

One more question while I'm at it, would it be possible to use Lee Valley Bench Pups in this sort of top, or would the holes suffer from stress after a short time?

Dan

[Frankie Hunt]

Dan,

I think biscuits would work fine. Or use screws with plugs covering the counter sunk screw holes. The biscuits would be in the plywood not the mdf, same thing with the screws. The mdf would just sit in the hole created by the banding. At least that is how I made mine and it is working fine.

I do have one suggestion. I made my bench using this method. Instead of letting the top support itself on the legs, I also made a sub frame out of 2 x 4's on edge spaced about 4 inches apart. This gave a lot more weight and stability to the bench I then banded it all with 3/4 inch oak. The oak went a little past the bottom of the subframe This only gives me 3/4 inch for my clamps to hold onto when I clamp something down. So..... If you want the edge banding to be larger than the top thickness for looks or whatever reason. Then build up the edge of the top (on the bottom of it) with about a 4 inch lip, then band it. (4 inch width, not 4 inch heigth) The top of the band would be flush with the top of the workbench top, and the bottom of the band would be flush with the bottom of the workbench top. This will give you more room for your clamps to hold onto.

Clear as mud.... right? :)

Frankie

[Alan Turner]

I think the bench pups would be OK without extreme pressure, but when Iuse them I don't ever really crank them down as there is no need to. You could glue a strip to the bottom where you will have your row of dog holes, solid wood, and drill it all at once, and then I would think that strength would not be an issue.

[Dan Forman]

Dan,

So..... If you want the edge banding to be larger than the top thickness for looks or whatever reason. Then build up the edge of the top (on the bottom of it) with about a 4 inch lip, then band it. (4 inch width, not 4 inch heigth) The top of the band would be flush with the top of the workbench top, and the bottom of the band would be flush with the bottom of the workbench top. This will give you more room for your clamps to hold onto.

Clear as mud.... right? :)

Frankie


Frankie---You lost me at the doughnut shop. :D

Actually, there will be three drawers across, going under the top, so I don't want to build up (down?) the top too much. Thanks for reminding me to leave the top clamp friendly, as I had been thinking of extending the skirt a bit past the bottom of the top (blimey, now you've got me doing it!)

Alan---Not sure if I'm following you. The pups only call for 2" deep holes, and the top is 2 1/4" thick. I was concerned as to whether the pups would break down the edges of the holes in the MDF and partilce board, not the strength of the top itself. Sounds like you are saying that you don't apply all that much force with them, so they should hold up ok. Are you suggesting what I should do is cut a strip out of the MDF and "inlay" a 3 or 4 inch wide strip of maple into the top the same thickness as the MDF where the holes will be drilled? That would take the brunt of the force, as well as make it easier to flip or replace the MDF when it gets to looking shabby, as there would be worry about lining up the new holes with the existing ones.

Dan

[Bart Leetch]

So while your making this why don't you put a disposable piece of 1/4" tempered masonite on top so when it wears out just remove & replace it & leave the rest of the bench alone.

My bench top it 1" plywood 3/4" high density under-layment (read chip board) real heavy & 1/4" tempered Masonite.
It is somewhere I think around 3 years old or more & has held up very well.

[Alan Turner]

"Alan---Not sure if I'm following you. The pups only call for 2" deep holes, and the top is 2 1/4" thick. I was concerned as to whether the pups would break down the edges of the holes in the MDF and partilce board, not the strength of the top itself. Sounds like you are saying that you don't apply all that much force with them, so they should hold up ok. Are you suggesting what I should do is cut a strip out of the MDF and "inlay" a 3 or 4 inch wide strip of maple into the top the same thickness as the MDF where the holes will be drilled? That would take the brunt of the force, as well as make it easier to flip or replace the MDF when it gets to looking shabby, as there would be worry about lining up the new holes with the existing ones."


Dan,
I was confused. Sorry about that. I thought you were speaking of the wonder dogs/pups. But, that confusion aside, I also do not really crank down the bench dogs either. Why don't you go without the real wood and see how they work. If you have a problem, then you can inset on the bottom and top pieces of 1/2" maple, since all of the force will be at the top and bottom, and not in the center, of the dog/pup hole. I like the longer dogs so I can find them since they stick through the bottom of the top. I have 4 round dogs somewhere on the bench at most times, even when they are not in use.

My bench is maple, and I use square dogs with the tail vise, but round dogs elsewhere, including when needed a pair of wonder dogs. With this set up there is not much that you can't get a grip on.

[Dan Forman]

Bart---Same idea, I'm just using the MDF as a disposable top rather than tempered hardboard.

Dan

[Bart Leetch]

Bart---Same idea, I'm just using the MDF as a disposable top rather than tempered hardboard.

Dan

Thats great Dan but my thought is it will take more effort to remove the MDF because it is heavier & thicker & a little more expensive. I screwed the end aprons on my bench 1. because I plan to get one of the Lee Valley vices that are 24" wide 2. So I could take the apron end off & remove the 1/4" masonite.

So have you carried this 3/4" MDF into your shop yet? ;) Heavy isn't it? :eek: Imagine having to disassemble & remove it from your bench. I would suggest that the 1/4" masonite would be easier & lighter to remove & replace. Save your back. :D Just add it to you sandwich.