Workbench Build

[Andy J Smith]

I'm starting on my first workbench build, primarily for hand tools. I've read both Scott Landis's book as well as Schwartz, followed countless Roubo and Nicholson bench builds. My workspace is in a small, unconditioned basement. We'll probably be moving in the next 2 years, so I want to be able to partially disassemble it so that I can take it with me. I will be using two older Wilcox quick release vises since I have them already, bought at estate sales for a song. I have lower back issues, so I'm going to ignore accepted practice and my better judgement and attempt a 40" finished height.

In the past, most of my projects have been on a smaller scale using either mahogany, flat sawn oak, or walnut which I've found to be fairly stable and forgiving. For the sake of cost and availability, I will be using douglas fir and pine construction grade lumber. One of the challenges that I've come across is trying to find the best lumber for this project. While the cost is low, the waste factor seems high. Out of a 12' 2x6, I'm lucky if I find that 8' is usable.

I had a question about one of the boards I've bought. My plan was to plane and join (3) 2x6s together for the legs, hoping for final dimension of 3.75" x 5". This particular 2x6 was relatively free of knots, but it contains the pith. If I plane the top of the board more than the bottom, is there a hope of this board being stable?

Thanks

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x16/AndrewJsfotos/firendgrain_zpsbc8e5d69.jpg (http://s182.photobucket.com/user/AndrewJsfotos/media/firendgrain_zpsbc8e5d69.jpg.html)

[Jim Matthews]

A higher bench means that you'll work with your arms out at the elbows.
That's not bad, for most processes.

The only difficulty would come into play when planing - if you're using
Western style Bailey planes and have your elbows deeply flexed.

It might be worth exploring the Japanese style planes, which are
pulled toward you - with your arms extended.

A word about the board shown - there's plenty of quartersawn lumber
on either side of the pith - if you rip the board into three sections.

The South Philly Ikea is a supplier of solid wood countertops.
It may be more money than you've budgeted, but the Numerar
laminate makes a sturdy top, particularly if laminated to
MDF or plywood substrates.

The planned move in two years makes me wonder about the bench design.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/42784/build-your-first-workbench/page/all

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50086416/

[Andy J Smith]

Jim, I really appreciate the thoughts. Planing at higher height is one of my biggest concerns. However, I feel like for most joinery work, I could drop items down in the vise to get pieces at a reasonable height.

My current benches are at 40" and 33". The 33" is basically a piece of plywood semi-attached to two saw horses, it is nice for face joining but it murders my back. The 40" came with the house, has a vise on it and has been fine for cutting and edge planing, but is too narrow and wobbly, no dog holes, etc. So I haven't been able to try it for much else.

I've heard good things about the Ikea tops, however I'm committed to building it myself as a learning process. I'm going to use 12' 2x12s, ripped into 6' by 5" strips. Should make for a nice robust top.

As for design, it will be a Roubo style with a Nicholson front apron. By tenoning the top and making the carcass small enough to take upstairs, I feel it would be relatively easy to take apart. Worst case, I cut away the top and rebuild a new one later.

[Jim Matthews]

That's an ambitious project.

One of my favorite resources is Bob Rozaieski's excellent Logan Cabinet Shoppe.
I believe he has a tutorial on making a Nicholson bench, which is very stiff due to the front apron.

I strongly recommend you drop him a line, and ask for guidance.
He knows what he's about, and can help you avoid pitfalls.

He's just across the bridge, in Central New Jersey.
You won't meet a nicer guy, in our discipline.

http://logancabinetshoppe.wordpress.com/

[Pat Barry]

I had a question about one of the boards I've bought. My plan was to plane and join (3) 2x6s together for the legs, hoping for final dimension of 3.75" x 5". This particular 2x6 was relatively free of knots, but it contains the pith. If I plane the top of the board more than the bottom, is there a hope of this board being stable?

Thanks


Get it laminated together with something with opposite grain pattern ASAP and it will be fine.

[David Bassett]

It sounds like you have decided, but small movable and sturdy made we think of a bench I'd seen Christopher Schwarz blog about: Knock-down workbench (http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/11/10/knocked-up-knocked-down-naked/) designed by Mike Siemsen to break-down and fit in his Civic.

[Andy J Smith]

Thanks for all the good advice! I'll check out the resources shared.

Fortunately, the lumber yard I use for work is able to rip and join the 2x12s for the top. A friend is letting me run the rest of the material through his planer. Hoping to complete the rest of the work by hand, but dimensioning the lumber by machine before I begin should make this a lot easier.

[Andy J Smith]

Ordered my 2x12s for the top today, pretty excited about it. Sorted the rest of the lumber this weekend. Ready to make some progress on this large stack of lumber.

[Pat Barry]

Ordered my 2x12s for the top today, pretty excited about it. Sorted the rest of the lumber this weekend. Ready to make some progress on this large stack of lumber.
Try to rip it as best you can to avoid the knots and place the knots where they are least likely to create trouble for you when finish planing. Those pine knots can be a real pain to work