Inside outside shop build

[filip vrancken]

Hey Guys,

I've just started constructing a workshop on my own (hopefully) common healthy sense.
No engineer, architect, code or whatever to into account.
The workshop is build inside an existing building (old garage shop) and designed to take appart in a few years and move it to my future building site.

I'm going to use 2x6's at 24" center to have a bit more insulation.

-9' 10" wide by 8' 2" garage door
-3' 3" wide by 7' 2" high outside door
-3' 1" wide by 2' 5" high window


The wall disection is as follows:
303170
Most importand thing is that I want my walls to be vapour open (hope the osb supplier gives me air tight sheets)
Sidings and inside wall finishing will be decided in the future, because the construction will be indoors (outside woodfiber sheet can withstand constant water/moisture up to 4 weeks guaranteed).
The STEICOflex and STEICOuniversal productes can be found at http://www.steico.com/en/products.html

The floor is just a thick concrete slab (2 or 3 anchor bolts /wall element) and because I'm also going to do some welding I would like to keep it that way and not go for wooden flooring.



Garagedoor header
Is it possible to construct a 2x6" flat truss system and use it as a header (have a lot of 2x6's) : cheapest solution and I should probably increase the number of cripples used in sketchup.
or should I stick with the LVL/gluelam headers
In beginning I was thinking about framing 3 2x6's against eachother and sandwich this beam between 2 2x6's so you should end up with 6x10"
303169note: no sheeting (except in door/window opening), sil- and topplate in drawings.



Outside door + header
First I wanted to let the door slide on the concrete floor but perhaps to avoid problems in the future at future location I've raised the door to make it flush with the sil plate including a 23/32" marine grade plywood sheet.
The door itselfe is incased in a marine grade plywood box (bottom of box is mounted directly on the silplate) to have a stiff air tighter insulated door frame.
Doorframe is going to be taped windtight against the STEICOuniversal.
There is a 10mm gap between the plywood frame and STEICOuniversal to shim the door straight and fill with insulation afterwards.
Headerwise I tought about having 2x6's ripped to 2x3 1/2" nailed 3 behind each other.
303171note: no sheeting (except in door/window opening), sil- and topplate in drawings.
303172note: no sheeting (except in door/window opening), sil- and topplate in drawings.


Window opening
The window opening is the same as the door opening apart from the header here that consists of 3 2x6's behind each other and a 2x6 nailed on top.
303173note: no sheeting (except in door/window opening), sil- and topplate in drawings.


I'm not sure about what I would do with the walopening between the low and high part, there is probably a 2nd floor going on top of the low part if there is enough height (can only see this after 1st floor construction because the complete construction is build under an existing roof)
After wall framing is done, I'll tackle the roofing problems for the workshop.
303174303175

Any suggestion/question is welcome!

Europe Phil out...

[Lee Schierer]

First off, be sure that you don't need to get permits and have to follow building/electrical codes for what you are planing to do. The fact that you are building inside a building with timber frame construction would require code construction in most locations in the U.S. Once you move it outside it will probably also require permits and code compliance.

A 2 x 6 header is not suitable for spans of 8 feet or more. If you eventually move this shop to outside as indicated, that doorway will become load bearing and is not adequate. LVL's are far superior to ordinary wood headers with regard to load bearing. However even LVL's need to be properly sized for the application.

[Brian Henderson]

And if you do need permits, which I would think is likely, keep in mind that many places will require that the plans not only have to meet current code, but likely be installed by licensed contractors. Look into all of this before you do it, otherwise they will find out and you will be required to tear it down. That has happened to several people I know who thought they could build without permits and ended up with a pile of ruined lumber for their labor.

[filip vrancken]

No need for a license whenever it is placed within a building, already checked it with city hall.
Even the insurance guys are ok with it...

I'm thinking of having it inspected by a structural engineer because it's going outside in a few years but first I want to lay it out as far as I can get it with common sense, these guys get paid by the minute...
I talked with an architect and he said there's nothing wrong with a 2x6 24 spaced, just make sure the roof, headers and supporting studs are taken into account for because in a few years you should probably add insulation to the existing structure.

Electrical code is no problemo, friend of mine is a prof electrician.


About the garagedoor header, so the sandwiched 2x6 shouldn't be enough, would a flat truss design be adequate?
303218( just a quick drawing).

[filip vrancken]

Moved on a few days now, 4 wall sections are framed, one has some Tyvek on it and is already placed into position :).

The garagedoor, window and outside door headers have arrived.
Garagedoor header are 2 2x12" x 11' long glued/nailed together
Window are 2 2x6" x 4 ' glued/nailed together.
Door header is a risky one, 4x6" x 4feet gluelam.

Any idead on how to make the roof?
Solid beam, TJI, straight truss,...
Ceiling beams on top of the wall or mounted top flush and hold into place by metal brackets, .... ?

All tips / tricks / advise/ oppinions are welcome :)!

[Peter Aeschliman]

We won't believe that you did any of this until you post pictures. :D

[James Conrad]

Unless you have roof load or floor load over your garage door or window, you didn't really need large headers like that.

[filip vrancken]

Pictures going to be online this evening:).

@ James Conrad: There is a roof going on top of the tall section and some small storage area is going on top (only going up there once in a while, in the future this is going to be just a roof when moved outside.
The lower section is getting a second floor (when I have enough height for it :):)).

Any suggestions on the white section between the tall and lower part?
Still don't know how I'm going to crack that one.

Thanks for replies guys! :)

[James Conrad]

Are your roof rafters landing on the walls left and right of the garage door wall?

Not really following what you mean my White Section? And, why the height differences between the two areas?

[filip vrancken]

Are your roof rafters landing on the walls left and right of the garage door wall?

Not really following what you mean my White Section? And, why the height differences between the two areas?


The rafters are as follows:
303703303704

The height difference is because there is going to be a second floor on top of the low section, but it depends on how much space I have left on top of the low section, if there is space for a second floor, then I'll be making cantilever probably.


How should I place the rafters, like the green marked or red marked?
303705


The white section is as follows and all is made with 2x6":
303706

[James Conrad]

Maybe I missed it somewhere, what are the dimensions?

[filip vrancken]

Rafter dimensions?
Haven't got that far yet, Solid beam, TJI, straight truss,...

Outer dimension of the white section between both wall elements are 9 1/2' high by 8 3/4'.

[James Conrad]

Dimensions of the building itself... Those would be called joists that support floors and ceilings, rafters are part of the roof structure.

[filip vrancken]

Dimensions of the building itself... Those would be called joists that support floors and ceilings, rafters are part of the roof structure.

I tought you'd meant the rafters, ah well, assumption is the mother of all *$£%@'s :)
23'x17' and 10'x17' are overal construction floor dimensions.

[James Conrad]

I would orient your roof line so your roof rafters and load land on the opposite walls than you are planning, land them on the walls left and right of the garage door. This eliminates the need for the headers and that truss spanning the opening to the small room. It also removes the funneling of rain and snow from your roof at your entryways.

[Jim Andrew]

On your picture, you show a single top plate on the walls. You need a double plate, with the top plate tying the walls together, and crossing over splices.

[filip vrancken]

On your picture, you show a single top plate on the walls. You need a double plate, with the top plate tying the walls together, and crossing over splices.

Hey Jim, next to every picture I've put a note that there are no sheeting, sill- and topplates in the drawings:)
also forget to write down noggings :D.


James: Damnit, already bought those headers...
If I would make the header on the lower section like you suggest, wouldn't I be needing a header where the two rooms meet? Also planning on having a staicase at the end of the small room (when a second floor would be possible)that would run parrallell with the rafters how I've drawn them.

At the high section I've drawn these so the wall with the garagedoor has some extra perpendicular support.

[James Conrad]

Why would you need headers in a place with no load? You need a full set of proper plans for comments here to be truly helpful so it can be seen what you intend to do as a whole. Suggestions, such as mine, are mostly to help you from making mistakes, make the building process easier and cost effective. For example, the roof orientation I suggested, keeps snow and rain from funneling to critical locations, removes the need for most headers, easier to tie the two roof lines together, easier to transition from one floor to the other if you put second floor space on.... I suggest getting Scot Simpsons book on framing houses.

[filip vrancken]

Like said in earlier posts and as seen in the sketches, The rafters are landing on the garagedoor and window walls.
The roof is just a temp solution (an insulated one:)) so no rain, snow, roofing,... is going to be on there.
Once the structure has to move (in a year or 6) there are probably going to be wall's added depending if i need more space.

In other words, actual final roof is not going to be on there, just a temp one.

Forget to mention the floor dimensions, sry 'bout that:)
304863

I'm doing this all by myselfe and 22' rafters are a bit long to tackle on my own and going to be high/more expensive.

Like the romans said, mea culpa:).