Very vintage Craftsman 113.29991...anybody have one?

[John McBride]

While I continue to research and weigh options regarding what table saw to put in my little brick shop of wonderfulness, I have a close friend who is going to give me a vintage Craftsman 10", 1hp table saw. It is circa 1957-ish as it is painted the gold color for the 50th anniversary special edition Craftsman tools. She is also going to come with a new in box Baldor motor(HP unknown at this time).
All the parts are there. It is also a one owner saw.
Does anyone have first hand user experience with this saw? My plan is to rehab the saw, use it until I finally decide on my go to saw, and then use it for dados, or some other dedicated purpose later.
I would love to hear from owners about upgrades, pluses, minuses,foibles, and general usefulness.

Fwiw, I have been to owwm, and googled the hell out of this machine. I would just like to go to the smc well of experience, and get a feel of what to expect.

Thanks.

[glenn bradley]

There are several slightly different versions of this saw. I have grandpa's, bought new and handed down. The top and castings are heavier and more refined than the later Emerson saws that are also very common. I was going to sell it but, unless you are a collector and want to restore it to original for some reason, they can be had quite cheap. I took this as a message from the shop-gods to hang on to grandpa's saw and meld it into the shop some day.

The fence isn't worth beans in practical use but, this does not differ from the majority of factory offerings. The trunnions on mine move as smooth as silk but, grandpa was like that. The handwheels are a bit undersized but, on a scale with the whole saw which is quite petite.

The standard upgrades would turn this into quite a little workhorse:

Good quality fence.
Good quality miter gauge.
Machined pulleys and a link belt.
PALs for trunnion alignment.
Shop made dust collection adaptions.

Add a good motor and a few decent blades and let 'er rip. Optional items might include a router table wing and larger outfeed surfaces like nearly any other saw. All in all a great score and well worth the effort IMHO.

[Bill Ryall]

Not that absolute exact saw- mine is a 113.29903, a couple years newer but almost identical. Had cast iron web wings and a Craftsman stand.
I enclosed the base and added a DC port, put a new Craftsman fence on, and a 2hp TEFC Baldor motor with link belt. It served as the center of my small one-man commercial shop for about 10 years until I got a steal on an almost new Jet with sliding table. I could balance a nickel on end with it running. It is currently in storage due to space restraints, but will be put into back into service when the shop moves as a second saw for ripping and dados.
If I found another in good condition I wouldn't hesitate to buy it if the price was right. It has been an absolute rock.

[John McBride]

There are several slightly different versions of this saw. I have grandpa's, bought new and handed down. The top and castings are heavier and more refined than the later Emerson saws that are also very common. I was going to sell it but, unless you are a collector and want to restore it to original for some reason, they can be had quite cheap. I took this as a message from the shop-gods to hang on to grandpa's saw and meld it into the shop some day.

The fence isn't worth beans in practical use but, this does not differ from the majority of factory offerings. The trunnions on mine move as smooth as silk but, grandpa was like that. The handwheels are a bit undersized but, on a scale with the whole saw which is quite petite.

The standard upgrades would turn this into quite a little workhorse:

Good quality fence.
Good quality miter gauge.
Machined pulleys and a link belt.
PALs for trunnion alignment.
Shop made dust collection adaptions.

Add a good motor and a few decent blades and let 'er rip. Optional items might include a router table wing and larger outfeed surfaces like nearly any other saw. All in all a great score and well worth the effort IMHO.
Perfect. I am actually really excited about picking this saw up. The upgrades you mention, are known to me, and are now, firmly, on the must have list. Thank you. I am quite excited, because based on my reading, these saws seem to have the reputation for bomb-proofness. Exactly the type of machine I have a great affinity for. Perhaps, with the upgrades, and maybe even a 2hp motor as a replacement, it might even serve as my main, go-to machine......I'll know more once I get it home and get into it.

[John McBride]

Not that absolute exact saw- mine is a 113.29903, a couple years newer but almost identical. Had cast iron web wings and a Craftsman stand.
I enclosed the base and added a DC port, put a new Craftsman fence on, and a 2hp TEFC Baldor motor with link belt. It served as the center of my small one-man commercial shop for about 10 years until I got a steal on an almost new Jet with sliding table. I could balance a nickel on end with it running. It is currently in storage due to space restraints, but will be put into back into service when the shop moves as a second saw for ripping and dados.
If I found another in good condition I wouldn't hesitate to buy it if the price was right. It has been an absolute rock.
Thanks Bill, totally what I was hoping to hear. Based on my reading, I suspect that with the upgrades mentioned above, and the baldor motor swap (fingers crossed that it is a 2hp) that this machine could do well for me for a while. Then be used as a dedicated ripper or dado machine once I move into the larger space being planned just as you propose. Thanks.

[glenn bradley]

based on my reading, these saws seem to have the reputation for bomb-proofness.

Just to add some credence to that, one has served, since bought new, in the Agricultural Operation site at my work. This is in a closed off shed-like corner of a large open barn structure. This is the "shop" where these folks modify or make their agricultural equipment for tending their research fields of 50 acres or so. Hardly a weather regulated location but, I am in So Cal so the swings are pretty mild. I noticed it while doing some work in the area and mentioned it to an old guy there. He had been around since the saw was brought in new and says it has never done anything but work. Pretty good praise for a nearly 60 year old tailed-tool.

[John McBride]

Just to add some credence to that, one has served, since bought new, in the Agricultural Operation site at my work. This is in a closed off shed-like corner of a large open barn structure. This is the "shop" where these folks modify or make their agricultural equipment for tending their research fields of 50 acres or so. Hardly a weather regulated location but, I am in So Cal so the swings are pretty mild. I noticed it while doing some work in the area and mentioned it to an old guy there. He had been around since the saw was brought in new and says it has never done anything but work. Pretty good praise for a nearly 60 year old tailed-tool.
I'm sold! Love hearing tales of good, sturdy tooling.

[Lee Schierer]

One thing that you will definitely want to do is to align the saw. The factory set up wasn't always the best. Once I aligned my 113 it cut far better. Mine works well with Freud blades get a dedicated cross cur abd a dedicated rip blade. I currently have a 30 tooth glue line rip blade that does a good job.

[John McBride]

One thing that you will definitely want to do is to align the saw. The factory set up wasn't always the best. Once I aligned my 113 it cut far better. Mine works well with Freud blades get a dedicated cross cur abd a dedicated rip blade. I currently have a 30 tooth glue line rip blade that does a good job.

Excellent advice. I'm already looking at thin kerf blades as we speak.

[Jim Andrew]

I had a similar saw for somewhere around 20 years. When I was young I could load it in the back of my truck by myself, and gave it up when I could hardly load it with help. The motor on mine was shot, would barely run, the fence was junk, and when I compared a new motor and fence to a new unisaw, went with the unisaw. My plan was to fix up the old saw, but the cost was only off by about 300.

[John McBride]

I like that this saw has a "heft" to it. I am sure I will go overboard with it's rehabbing. Csat iron router table extension, machined pully set, link belt, PALS, new delta t2 ( if I can find one) and perhaps even a 2hp motor too. But if I am not planing to sell it later, even after getting a "go to" saw later, I think it will be worth it. These saws seem to have all the features I am looking for minus upgraded fence etc. Good heavy castings, quality construction. Just dont see how I can go wrong here.

[Viking Mountain Tool Works]

I have my Grandpas saw from the early 60's. In addition to the other upgrades already mentioned, I would consider a Woodworker II thin kerf blade. Works great with the stock 1/2 hp motor. I also have a 6 inch dado which is a lot less mass for the motor to get started. It will cut just about anything I throw at it.

[Curt Harms]

Definitely look at thin kerf blades. If you're looking to save a few $, you might also look at quality 7 1/4" blades - not the 18-24 tooth construction blade. Home Depot stocks Freud Diablo 7 1/4" 40 tooth finish blades for $14.97. Those blades don't remove nearly as much material as a full kerf (.12") blade so require less power. I have one on a 3 h.p. cab. saw that I use a lot of the time. I can't get a 10" carbide blade sharpened for $14.97, not to mention the risk of hitting buried metal.

[John McBride]

Definitely look at thin kerf blades. If you're looking to save a few $, you might also look at quality 7 1/4" blades - not the 18-24 tooth construction blade. Home Depot stocks Freud Diablo 7 1/4" 40 tooth finish blades for $14.97. Those blades don't remove nearly as much material as a full kerf (.12") blade so require less power. I have one on a 3 h.p. cab. saw that I use a lot of the time. I can't get a 10" carbide blade sharpened for $14.97, not to mention the risk of hitting buried metal.
Thanks guys. Yes indeed, thin kerf blades are pretty much all I will be using to start out with. Pretty much any saw,1hp or less, do soooooo much better with a quality thin kerf blade.

[Bob Egan]

Great saw. I have the exact same saw - handed down from my grandpa. I just started my second refurb - not bad for a saw that is only 3 years younger than me :-)
I have nothing to add in the option department except if you look around there is a mobile pedestal stand made for he saw. I have one. Occasionally I see them pop up for sale on craigslist.

Other things for you to consider:
1. Change the blade arbor bearings. You can buy new ones from Accurate Bearing.
2. Tip the saw over and lay it on the table and clean the underside. Pay particular attention to clean the curved trunnion surfaces, and the crank shafts and gear mechanisms used for tilt and blade lift. A standard wire brush for these will help. Then spray on some wd 40, or one of the newer dry lubs- resist any and all temptation to "grease" up any of these surface.
3. As others have mention align the saw blade (eg. make parallel to the fence)
4. Align the 0 and 45 stops angle stops - very easy, the stops have two set screws and easy to access.

Best of luck with your new saw. It's a good one.

[Jayson Williams]

I just bought the exact table saw for $25.00 on Craigslist. The guy said that the motor didn't work. I got it home and set it up to see for myself and the guy was wrong. It came with 3 cast iron extensions which are 10"x 27". My goal is to restore it when I can and find a original Craftsman stand for it. Here is the manual in case you don't have


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/11329991-Craftsman-Parts-Saw-Parts-manual?searchTerm=113.29991
Thanks Bill, totally what I was hoping to hear. Based on my reading, I suspect that with the upgrades mentioned above, and the baldor motor swap (fingers crossed that it is a 2hp) that this machine could do well for me for a while. Then be used as a dedicated ripper or dado machine once I move into the larger space being planned just as you propose. Thanks.