Anyone found a way to go straight to glue up from a bandsaw?

[Luke Pighetti]

I'm thinking of snagging a Laguna 14|12 for my small shop. I'll be buying it to do lots of resawing for glue ups of flat and bent laminations out of exotic hardwoods. I do not own a planer or thickness sander. My parts are usually 4" x 6" x 1" but I may be getting into some 6" x 12" x 3" parts in the future.

Are there any blades out there that will cut good enough on a bandsaw of this type that I can go straight to glue up without worrying about voids or aesthetic errors?

If not, what is the preferred method for preparing the faces of resawed lumber around 1/16" thick for glue ups?

[Frederick Skelly]

I havent found such a blade yet, but I often just run a hand plane over my resawed parts. I know that will work down to 1/8" thick (done that myself) but it should work to 1/16" (my #4 smoothing plane takes shavings that measure 0.003" thick). Youll have to rig a way to hold it down; e.g., take a piece thats a few inches longer than needed and nail it down.

Used #4s are plentiful and if you clean them up yourself, they are cheap. Plus, getting "plane savvy" opened up a whole world of new ways to do things for me. (Another great excuse to justify that lovely new bandsaw!)

Hope it helps!
Fred

[Steve Baumgartner]

My experience has also been that a really good blade in a properly adjusted bandsaw run by a skilled operator will produce a surprisingly smooth surface, but *not* glue-up ready. For laminations as thin as you want, I think a wide belt sander is the best way to go. Hand planing also works, though it can be difficult to keep a thin piece from sliding around while you plane it. With the right sort of sled you can do them in a planer, but there is still some risk of blowouts if the lamination lifts at all.

[Jim Matthews]

Search David Charlesworth "meat and fish blade".

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/precision_band_saw

[Mel Fulks]

I think we need more information. I think the glue would hold just fine. But unless the product is utilitarian the problem
would the prominent glue lines being as big as the pieces of exotic wood.

[Myk Rian]

Run the edge over the jointer after using the band saw.

[bill tindall]

A carbide blade will accomplish the task. As far as smoothing resawed veneer a drum sander like a Performax does nicely.

[Frederick Skelly]

Run the edge over the jointer after using the band saw.

Man Myk, you think that would work on really thin stock? Even if I mounted it to some carrier board, Id be concerned about tearing up that 1/16" stock on a jointer (inconsistent pressure from my hands, etc). Do you have a technique that works for this? It would sure be a good one to know.
Fred

[Paul Stoops]

My choice would be to use a drum sander, Performax, Jet, or equivalent after resawing. I never realized what a valuable tool a drum sander is until I bought one for my shop. I use it a lot!

Paul in Auburn, WA

[Frederick Skelly]

My choice would be to use a drum sander, Performax, Jet, or equivalent after resawing. I never realized what a valuable tool a drum sander is until I bought one for my shop. I use it a lot!

Paul in Auburn, WA

Yeah, thats the right tool for this job (if you have one). I didnt even think of that.

[Frank Drew]

Run the edge over the jointer after using the band saw.

I think the OP is talking about face gluing shop cut veneers, not edge joining.

The smoother the glued-down face, the less likely you'll get saw cuts telegraphing through once the glue cures and perhaps shrinks a bit.

[David Kumm]

A good blade and stout tuned saw will yield straight to glue short pieces. Long are much more difficult due to the inaccuracy from hand feeding. Any hesitation telegraphs to the veneer. Veneer sanding is one of the few things a drum sander can do as well as a wide belt. Dave

[Rick Fisher]

Really thick glue ..

[Myk Rian]

Man Myk, you think that would work on really thin stock? Even if I mounted it to some carrier board, Id be concerned about tearing up that 1/16" stock on a jointer (inconsistent pressure from my hands, etc). Do you have a technique that works for this? It would sure be a good one to know.
Fred
I've done it with veneer, but you have to be aware of the grain. You need to cut down-grain. I used a 1x6 with 320 sandpaper glued to the face. The veneer was between the 1x6 and the fence. The sandpaper held it firmly. You're only taking a very small amount off the edge. 1/32 or less.

[Frederick Skelly]

I've done it with veneer, but you have to be aware of the grain. You need to cut down-grain. I used a 1x6 with 320 sandpaper glued to the face. The veneer was between the 1x6 and the fence. The sandpaper held it firmly. You're only taking a very small amount off the edge. 1/32 or less.

Thanks Myk!

[Curt Harms]

I think the trick with carbide blades is to find one that will last when used on a 14" saw. There may be one possibility - Spectrum Supply shows a Trimaster 1/2" .025 3 T.P.I. I wonder if that is thin enough to have a reasonable lifespan on 14" wheels? T'aint cheap though - a 9' 6" one is $139.43.

[Alan Lightstone]

I do it followed by a drum sander all the time. I can't imagine not using the drum sander after resawing with my Laguna 14SUV and a resaw king blade. That definitely needs sanding afterwards.

My usual workflow is joint, resaw, drum sander, repeat...