Jet JWTS 10 switch from 110 to 220

[dan conway]

https://flic.kr/p/qcEKBV

I have a Jet table saw and want to switch it to 220 (I don't want to debate 110 vs 220). Enclosed are some pictures from the saw and the cord I bought to hook it up. Can I please get some help with where the wires go?

Thanks and Merry Christmas.


Click on link, it will take you to pix. Go to left once you get there. You should see 3 pix.

[Mike Cutler]

Dan

I have the same Table Saw, a few years older than yours, but the same. I wired mine for 240 also, just for the sake of machine convention. All my machines plug into 240, and since I can only run one at a time, I know I'll never challenge a breaker rating by having two running on the same circuit as could be the case if they were left wired for 120.

I'm not sure why, or if, you needed to buy a second cord. The electrical cord from the Start/Stop pushbuttons should already be in place, as should be the electrical cord to plug the saw into the wall.

Mine has the Black wire coming in and going to one side of the thermal overload reset pushbutton on top of the motor connection box. There is a Red wire that goes from the other side of the thermal overload reset pushbutton to the #1 terminal, where it electrically connected to the Black motor lead.
The White wire is attached to the #3 terminal, where it is electrically connected to the Yellow motor lead. The Red and Gray motor leads are connected together under the #2 terminal . The drawing in the motor connection box is a little misleading because it lends you to believe that there are four connection, when in fact there are only three. That drawing is simply showing the four motor leads and is using the "bubble" to indicate an internal electrical connection that you cannot see.

You need to change the plug on the table saw from 120 to 240. The OEM electrical cord will have three colored conductors. The Green is connected to the ground lug, and the white and black will be connected to the two poles of 240.

[dan conway]

Mike thanks for the reply. When I say I bought a cord it is the plug that I bought. It matches the 220 outlet on the wall. I will follow above and see if I can figure this out.

[Mike Cutler]

Dan

If It would help you, I'll try and get a pic of the wiring on mine. It's kind of pushed up against the wall right now, but I could probably get a clear shot.

Mike

[dan conway]

That would be awesome.

[Mike Cutler]

Dan

I'm having trouble uploading the photo's. They were taken on my iPhone and I may need to re-take them with a camera, or try and upload from my iPhone.

[dan conway]

Dan

I'm having trouble uploading the photo's. They were taken on my iPhone and I may need to re-take them with a camera, or try and upload from my iPhone.
No problem, I havent had a chance to look at it yet.

[dan conway]

Dan

I'm having trouble uploading the photo's. They were taken on my iPhone and I may need to re-take them with a camera, or try and upload from my iPhone.


Hey, Mike can you get that photo for me?

[Earl McLain]

Don,
No photo--but generally the cord will have 3 wires in it...black, white and green(or maybe bare--it's the ground wire). When you open the replacement plug, you'll note that one terminal has a brass colored screw, it gets the black wire. Another terminal has a silver colored screw, it gets the white. The third terminal should be a green screw, it gets the bare or green wire. Or, more simply...brass-black, green-ground, silver-whatever is left!!

If you are not confident in your choices--hire help. Much cheaper than a fire or injury or...

earl

[Jeff L Jump]

There is usually a wiring diagram on the motor inside cover.

JJ

[Mike Cutler]

Hey, Mike can you get that photo for me?

OMG!!!
Dan I am truly sorry. I will try to get that photo for you.:o

[dan conway]

OK so here is my dilemma, the 110 cord in the first picture
https://www.flickr.com/photos/danconway327/albums/72157675742372386

comes out of the motor and goes to the On off switch you can see it in the second picture. and then it comes back and this is what plugs into the wall outlet Third picture.

A couple of questions. What type of power cord do I buy to hook this up to the 220 Volt outlet in the 4th picture? a 3 or 4 wired power cord?

The breaker is a 30 amp breaker and is the only thing that will be on it.

[dan conway]

Anybody with electrical knowledge here can help me?

[David L Morse]

Although it looks like you have already bought a cable that would not be my first choice. I would rather get a 14-30 plug (https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-S21-SP-L-Commercial-250-Volt-14-30-NEMA/dp/B000FPDKYS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1477757394&sr=8-3&keywords=14-30+plug) then cut off the lod plug from the existing power cord. Attach the new plug to the old cord and you're done (assuming you've finished rewiring the motor according to the diagram you posted). The 14-30 is a four wire connector but you only need three, you don't need the neutral. Connect your green wire to the ground pin, your black wire to L1 and the white to L2 (or switch the black and white, L1 and L2 are interchangeable). Nothing connects to the neutral pin. 346586

If you really want to try to stuff that oversize cable into your switch compartment then, after disconnecting the old power cable, connect the new green to the same place as the old green, the new black to where the old black was and the red to the old white's terminal. The new white wire is not connected to anything.

[dan conway]

Although it looks like you have already bought a cable that would not be my first choice. I would rather get a 14-30 plug (https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-S21-SP-L-Commercial-250-Volt-14-30-NEMA/dp/B000FPDKYS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1477757394&sr=8-3&keywords=14-30+plug) then cut off the lod plug from the existing power cord. Attach the new plug to the old cord and you're done (assuming you've finished rewiring the motor according to the diagram you posted). The 14-30 is a four wire connector but you only need three, you don't need the neutral. Connect your green wire to the ground pin, your black wire to L1 and the white to L2 (or switch the black and white, L1 and L2 are interchangeable). Nothing connects to the neutral pin. 346586

If you really want to try to stuff that oversize cable into your switch compartment then, after disconnecting the old power cable, connect the new green to the same place as the old green, the new black to where the old black was and the red to the old white's terminal. The new white wire is not connected to anything.

Thanks Davis I will try that. This looks like it will work. :D

[dan conway]

Actually I would still need an extension cord to reach from the saw to the outlet. So I will go ahead and make or buy one to go from the power switch to the wall outlet. What gauge should I be looking for and should I make my own or buy one.

Thanks.

[Mike Cutler]

Dan

I am doing 6pm to 6am right now, and tonight is my last night.
You're kinda going overkill here, and it can be made a lot simpler.
I have my saw on a 20 amp breaker, with a standard 240vac/20 amp receptacle. If you're committed to the 30 amp, you can either use a twist lock, or a 240vac/30 amp plug and receptacle.
I used 2C, 12awg, SO cord, for the extension cord. This cord is readily available at any home center. It will have 2 stranded conductors and a stranded ground wire.
Wire the motor per the drawing in the box and attach the power wires per the drawing. I think where you are confusing yourself is what to do with the neutral wire in a 3C cable. ( It looks like you have a pre-molded dryer cable in the pictures.) There is no neutral connection required for your saw. If you have already bought the pre-wired extension cord and receptacle, you would just drop the neutral connection and spare it back.
If I am looking at your pictures correctly, you have a wire nut on the "red wire" of the power cord. The red and black wires are the wires that you need to provide power for the saw at the terminals inside the saw. The white is the "neutral wire". This wire will not be connected to anything at the saw.
If everything is wired per convention at the receptacle, you should have 240vac between the red and black wires and 120 vac between the white wire and either the red, or black wire. If convention has been followed, and the pictures are accurate, you may be getting ready to connect 120vac to a motor setup for 240 vac. You will also have a "live" 120vac wire exposed somewhere.
In your saw electrical connection box, the red and gray wires, of the saw's motor, should be screwed together under the center terminal of the terminal block. NO Other wires will be connected to these two.
The black and yellow wires from the motor should be on seperate terminals of the terminal block. The Black and Red wires from your new power cord will be connected to the black and yellow wires of the motor. Black to black, Red to Yellow. The white wire of your cord is not used on this type of machine. The Green wire of your cord needs to be attached to the green wire inside the box. This places the entire metal frame, motor, and table, of the saw at "ground" potential. It is very important that your saw is grounded. Very important.

[David L Morse]

Actually I would still need an extension cord to reach from the saw to the outlet. So I will go ahead and make or buy one to go from the power switch to the wall outlet. What gauge should I be looking for and should I make my own or buy one.

Thanks.


14 Gauge should be fine unless the cord is really long, like way more than 50'. Look for something with a thermoset jacket ie, SO or SJ for the first letters of the jacket type. You could use a regular orange extension cord and just cut off the ends but it's thermoplastic jacket (SE probably) is not as rugged and IMO is not the best choice. Both the cable and plug should be available at your HD/Lowes/Menards. Note that the plug will probably be usable as either a 14-30 or 14-50 depending upon which interchangeable neutral pin you install so don't get confused by that.

The new power cord of course replaces the old one and connects in the switch box not the motor box. The cable that runs between the switch and motor is not changed, otherwise wire the motor as Mike described.

[David L Morse]

I looked at the parts drawing for that saw and I think it's going to be a bit of a pain to replace the power cord. The cord routes through the saw cabinet and uses strain reliefs that may or may not fit the new cable and may or may not be destroyed when you remove them. Replacement strain reliefs of that type also may not be easy to find.

A more straight forward approach that also helps maintain resale value is to simply replace the 5-15P on the end of the existing cord with a 6-15P (https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-615PV-Volt-Grounding-Yellow/dp/B003B8T41O/ref=sr_1_23?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1477827412&sr=1-23&keywords=6-15p+plug&refinements=p_89%3ALeviton). That's the proper plug for that saw in 240V configuration and if you sell the saw you don't need to make excuses for the kludged up cable routing, extra long cord or oddball plug.

You'll of course need an extension cord/adapter with a 6-15R (https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-615CV-Volt-Outlet-Yellow/dp/B00271AEJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477824982&sr=8-1&keywords=615cv) on one end and a 14-30P on the other. 14-3 SO or SJ would be the appropriate cable for this but if you want something heavier you could use 12-3 and also upgrade the receptacle to a 6-20R (https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-620CV-Cord-Outlet-Grounding-Yellow/dp/B003B91CHW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477827774&sr=8-1&keywords=620cv). The 6-20R will accept the 6-15P from the saw.

If you prefer twist lock connectors then use L6-15P and L6-15R or L6-20R.

[dan conway]

Mike and David thank you very much for your help. I almost have it finished.

Quick question I connected the Red and Black to the center as Mike suggested, where do the yellow and black go?

346662


I purchased and put together a 10 gauge cord that I will run from the on off swith to the wall outlet, It was expensive but I wanted to do it right.

[David L Morse]

Mike and David thank you very much for your help. I almost have it finished.

Quick question I connected the Red and Black to the center as Mike suggested, where do the yellow and black go?

346662


I purchased and put together a 10 gauge cord that I will run from the on off swith to the wall outlet, It was expensive but I wanted to do it right.

That doesn't look right. According to your motor wiring diagram the Gray and Red wires should be connected to the center terminal. The Yellow and Black go to the outer terminals.
346663

10Ga wire is way overkill for a 6 or 7A load. Have you checked to see if your switch terminals are rated for that size? I'd be interested to see a pic of the inside of the switch box after you get it all wired.

[dan conway]

David, thanks for the reply,

I was going by Mike's post above "In your saw electrical connection box, the red and gray wires, of the saw's motor, should be screwed together under the center terminal of the terminal block. NO Other wires will be connected to these two. The black and yellow wires from the motor should be on seperate terminals of the terminal block. The Black and Red wires from your new power cord will be connected to the black and yellow wires of the motor. Black to black, Red to Yellow. The white wire of your cord is not used on this type of machine. The Green wire of your cord needs to be attached to the green wire inside the box. This places the entire metal frame, motor, and table, of the saw at "ground" potential. It is very important that your saw is grounded. Very important.".

He also mentions this earlier "Mine has the Black wire coming in and going to one side of the thermal overload reset pushbutton on top of the motor connection box. There is a Red wire that goes from the other side of the thermal overload reset pushbutton to the #1 terminal, where it electrically connected to the Black motor lead. The White wire is attached to the #3 terminal, where it is electrically connected to the Yellow motor lead. The Red and Gray motor leads are connected together under the #2 terminal . The drawing in the motor connection box is a little misleading because it lends you to believe that there are four connection, when in fact there are only three. That drawing is simply showing the four motor leads and is using the "bubble" to indicate an internal electrical connection that you cannot see". Which is kind of confusing, in one post he says to hook the Red and Gray motor leads together in the # 2 terminal, then he says to put the Red and Black there.

I'm confused.


Here is the diagram from the motor, what amp is the motor? 346669

[David L Morse]

David, thanks for the reply,
......
I'm confused.

Ok, let's keep it simple. Referring to your latest pic of the terminal block, put the Black wire from the motor under the leftmost screw. Put the Red and Gray wires under the middle screw. Put the Yellow wire under the far right screw. Don't change anything on the bottom of the terminal block.




Here is the diagram from the motor, what amp is the motor? 346669

Since the motor is UL listed I think it's safe to assume that the nameplate is consistent with NEMA requirements. What it says is that at an ambient temperature of 40°C after a 1 hour warm up with a 1.5HP load the motor will draw 18A with a 115V supply and 9A at 230V. Increasing the supply voltage to 240V will reduce the current as will reducing the ambient temperature. It will also draw less if it's not been warmed up to full operating temperature.

Some other things we learn from the nameplate are that at 1.5HP the internal temperature of the motor rises 60°C above ambient and that the insulation (Class E) is rated for 120°C operation. Now 60+40=100 so we have a 20°C cushion in operating temperature. That means this motor is likely to be capable of more than 1.5HP with with only minor reduction in service life.

That's the motor by itself not including any overcurrent protection (OCP). The overcurrent setting should be no more than 12A since the saw is provided with a 15A plug. From what I'm able to see the overcurrent setting appears to be the same for both 120V and 240V operation (that seems odd to me).

So how much current is your saw going to take after the conversion? Presumably you've been using it at 120V without tripping the OCP which means you're drawing no more than 12A. If you don't change how you're using the saw then the draw at 240V should be half of that, or no more than 6A. Of course if you double you feed rate and quit sharpening your blades you could probably force it to 12A at which point the OCP should trip.

[dan conway]

David, I really want to thank you for taking the time to explain this to me. Some of it is over my head but the hooking up the wire and following your diections is not. I will give it a go this afternoon after I double check all of the wires. i'll make sure to have a fire extinguisher read just in case.

[dan conway]

I got it hooked up and working. It is not bogging like it was, probably from the extension cord and the fact it was 110 THANKS EVERYONE. :D

[Mike Cutler]

Dan

You're up and running right? It looks like David got you hooked up, literally
I'm off of the 6-12's, nite shift finally. I tried to keep track of where you were at, but the day (nite) job got in the way. Sorry about that.
I'm finally home and back on a day shift schedule, so if you still need anything I'll be putting my shop back together. A tree top snapped off in a storm last year and went through the roof, and a second blew over into the garage, and water got everywhere. What a mess. As if just cleaning up water on machines isn't bad enough, try doing it when it brought down sheetrock too.