Oiling a wood lathe (general)

[Rob Schwartz]

I'm working on the restoration of a Delta 46-635, which is similar to the other Delta 46-6xx series lathes. (This is in a separate thread here (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?225097-Delta-Rockwell-Wood-Lathe-(left-outside-for-a-year)-should-I-buy). I split this off because it seems to be more generally applicable and also unrelated to the restoration itself.)

I am at the point where I am starting to think about oiling the ways and other parts of the machine. I've heard Mobil Vactra #2 recommended for the ways, but won't that attract sawdust? Is Boeshield T-9 a better option?

Also, what should I use in the headstock and tailstock? Do I even need oil for the headstock? (Tailstock has a plug for oil.)

In general, what are the proper oils used in/on a woodworking lathe?

Thanks,
Rob

And have a happy holidays :)

[Thom Sturgill]

Mobile vactra #1 and #2 are for "parts finish of today's high production machine tools" per the Mobile site. For a wood working lathe I would use WD40. Generally in a woodworking shop cast iron is protected with some Johnson's paste wax, though Boeshield is a good product. WD40 is not a lubricant, but does displace the water released from wet wood. Needs to be reapplied regularly.

A light machine oil would be fine for the tailstock. That is to lubricate the quill and screw. Not sure about the headstock as modern lathes tend to have pre-lubricated bearings with sealed bearing in the better lathes. Older lathes often had oil bearings that required machine oil, but machine oil can stain the wood.

[Jim Seyfried]

I use WD40 and a scotch write pad to clean the ways and then I put Ballistol oil on them (when I'm ready to leave the shop). I've used boeshield t-9 and their rust remover and they both work well. I have cleaned and oiled the surface of the tailstock quill but just clean the headstock. But I have a Powermatic 3520b and as Thom said it is built different than the one you are refurbishing.

With some wet woods my lathe needs to be cleaned and oiled at the end of the day, even removing the banjo and tailstock to clean/oil the bottoms. Other times it will stay clean for quite a while just dusting it off. If you turn wet wood and have other equipment in the area make sure to clean wood chips off of their surfaces too!

[Hayes Rutherford]

Another vote for WD-40. Its a pretty good cleaner and low viscosity lubricant. Never have used Ballistol but after reading Jim's post I looked it up and saw a lot of good information about it.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Boeshield is a good lubricant but I have not found it to prohibit rust as well as daily cleaning with WD40. If you spray Boeshield on the ways without wiping down the excess it will actually prohibit the smooth sliding of the banjo.

[allen thunem]

per an article in one of the turning mags (either saw publication or woodturning magazine) wd40 is not a recommended lubricant as it will absorb or draw moisture to metal.

[Marc Tuunanen]

What allen said. Which is why I use Boeshield T-9 and paste wax. I spray T-9 all over the metal parts, and let dry overnight. Then wipe down with an old T-shirt. Then spread a healthy amount of paste wax (rennisance) over the metal. Let that dry for about 15 min then buff out. Then another coat and buff. Might be overkill but it works for me. I do this to all the metal in my shop i.e.: lathe, bandsaws and sander bed.

Merry Christmas,
Marc

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I wipe my lathes dry if they get wet, any rust if ever gets removed with a bit of engine oil and then use a razor scraper, (the kind used to remove paint from windows etc) it is the preferred way for machine restorers, then the synthetic steel-wool after that, when dry a paste wax, as it will block the moisture well.

Engine oils are good for the tailstock spindle, though I prefer a grease on the threaded parts, if internal.

If you can get the lathes instruction book it will probably tell you the type of bearings there are in it, as your lathe isn’t that old I would expect good quality pre-lubed bearings in it.

Those are very good rugged lathes that withstood the abuse in schools for many years, all parts and the cast iron is much better quality than the offshore lathes of today.

[Cliff Hill]

I use Johnson paste wax on the metal surfaces of my shop tools -- It works well on my lathes even when wet wood turning and sanding.

Merry Christmas to all.
Cliff

[Marvin Hasenak]

I keep a bottle of 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid, ATF, and kerosene in my shop. The ATF acts as a lubricant, the kerosene as a cleaner, I can wipe any metal down and the mix will keep it from rusting and clean up my mess. It is my modified version of Big Red Bore Cleaner used to clean rifle bores. It works, it is cheap and available everywhere.

After it is cleaned I give it a quick coat of paste wax, the cheap stuff, not the expensive Renaissance wax, then wiped/buffed with paper shop towel.

I also use ATF when drilling acrylic, it cools it and keeps it from crackling. This usually gives the ways a good coat ATF that also protects the ways, or the drill press table from rust.

[Roger Chandler]

Boeshield is a good lubricant but I have not found it to prohibit rust as well as daily cleaning with WD40. If you spray Boeshield on the ways without wiping down the excess it will actually prohibit the smooth sliding of the banjo.

Very true!

[Rob Schwartz]

Thanks for the tips, everyone.

It seems that paste wax is definitely the way to go for the ways and exposed metal. For the headstock and tailstock I think I'll use the Mobil Vactra #2, and I'll keep either a bottle of Boeshield T-9 or ATF+kerosene around for cleaning.

[Rob Schwartz]

If you can get the lathes instruction book it will probably tell you the type of bearings there are in it, as your lathe isn’t that old I would expect good quality pre-lubed bearings in it.

Those are very good rugged lathes that withstood the abuse in schools for many years, all parts and the cast iron is much better quality than the offshore lathes of today.

Yep, there are sealed bearings in the headstock. I was just looking for something to cover the exposed metal in there.

And the iron has stood up very well to the test of the elements... still flat and smooth underneath all the rust :)

[Rik Rickerson]

Another vote for Ballistol. I use it for everything - woodworking machinery, door hinges, cleaning guns, etc. Excellent product.

[Harry Robinette]

I started using PG2000 on all my machines and found it to stop rust and lube the machine. I do my lathe ways with it and my banjo and tail stock move freely but will lock down and not creep on the ways. I normally don't like these new produces that say they get into the medal but this one works. I got mine from Woodcraft. Oh ya I been using it for around a year.

[Bob Bergstrom]

I believe you will find a small spring loaded ball residing on the top of the tailstock quill. If you push on the ball with a small screw driver it will detention. Drip in some machine oil to lub the quill. At least the one had was equipped that way.

[robert baccus]

Good idea but the loaded ball is made for a small grease gun sold for greasing chainsaw blade roller sprockets.

[Rob Schwartz]

I believe you will find a small spring loaded ball residing on the top of the tailstock quill. If you push on the ball with a small screw driver it will detention. Drip in some machine oil to lub the quill. At least the one had was equipped that way.

Thanks. I just found it on the tailstock.