Minimax MM16/S400P issues

[Rich Rodgers]

Back in June I bought a new MM16 slightly on sale. Life intervened, and it was in the crate in my shop until last week. I finally got it unpacked and upright and it's just about ready to go.

For the most part, I'm impressed, but there are a couple of notable issues.

First, I'm pretty sure the saw has euro guides instead of the promised Carter guides. I don't have experience with either so maybe I'm missing something. I'll attach a picture to try to confirm.

The pulley on the motor shaft is also very rusty. It feels rough like a grindstone. Is there no way to coat the pulley somehow? I don't understand how this happened.

The mitre slot in the table sticks quite a bit in two spots. I will need to file that down. Not thrilled about it.

I haven't yet run the saw. I'm nervous that this might be an old saw they had around, or that they put together out of problem parts.

Or maybe it's just a rusty pulley and an honest mistake on the guides. Anyone have any advice? I have an email into the sales rep.

[David Kumm]

Surface rust is common on pulleys that haven't been run. Could have occurred while in the crate your location. Scotchbrite pads or a wire wheel on a grinder will fix that up in minutes. Miter slot should be easy to fix with some sandpaper or file. New machines tend to need some adjustment and working to get up and running. I've spent every bit as much time adjusting new as stuff i've bought used. Dave

[Rich Rodgers]

I hear that. I hope that's the case. Not having the right guides was what concerned me the most, insofar as it might be indicative of bigger issues.

I will say this, getting a new blade on, tracked and tensioned was super easy. Should have it up and running today.

[Bruce Page]

Contact MiniMax once you have confirmed that guides you have are not as advertised.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Give you salesman time to respond. If you don't hear from him on Monday, contact SMC member Erik Loza via PM here at SMC.

Mini-MaxUSA is a good company and they will make it right.

[Matthew Hills]

First, I'm pretty sure the saw has euro guides instead of the promised Carter guides. I don't have experience with either so maybe I'm missing something. I'll attach a picture to try to confirm.

I didn't see a picture attached. Do your guides look like these? (from SMC thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?205459-Question-for-Minimax-bandsaw-owners))
http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m455/jokerbird_photo/SCM%20Bandsaw/P1020319.jpg

These are the Carter guides. This is what my saw has (purchased in 2014).
People seem to have mixed reviews -- some prefer the older european guides and some switch to a laguna guide.

They do feel a bit fiddly to adjust.
Blade guidance has been okay, but I'm running a wide blade at high tension.
I felt that the low guide is pretty far from the table (believe this is necessary to accomodate the table tilt)

Matt

[Rich Rodgers]

Sorry, haven't figured out how to post pictures.

The planes of the faces of guide bearings and the thrust bearing are perpendicular to the blade.

The thrust bearings say "GSP 456".

[Rich Rodgers]

Anyway, I got the saw running today after dealing with the wiring. I don't have any complaints. It's really nice.

I do want to figure out what I need to do to run a small blade on it, if I can. I'll talk to MiniMax and see what they say.

[Myk Rian]

Sorry, haven't figured out how to post pictures.
Make sure you're in Advanced Mode when you type the message.
Scroll down to Manage Attachments

[ian maybury]

There's been a lot of discussion over the years about running very narrow blades on large (typically Italian) low wheel camber band saws - my inclination would be to do some research before changing guides. The two solutions that pop up time and again are either The Sam Blasco's simple DIY (close to zero cost) but seemingly highly effective solution (slotted phenolic or other low wear blocks clamped between the stock guides), and the Carter Stabilizer. (see Carter website)

Run a search on the forum under narrow bandsaw blade, Carter Stabilizer, Sam Blasco - lots comes up. Here's a couple of samples:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?108511-Shopmade-Small-Blade-Guide-for-Bandsaws
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?124238-Sammy-blocks (drawing linked at bottom)
http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-stabilizer (depending on the mounting arrangement on a particular saw the Carter might (? would need checking) deliver a quick change option resulting in minimal disturbance of the stock guides)

I've not tested either, but the feedback from those that have seems consistently very positive.

Ref the other threads it's fairly clear that lost of care is needed not to overtension one of these blades on a big saw.....

[Robert LaPlaca]

I own a Gen 1 MM16, its a really nice machine, It would describe the machines fit and finish more along the lines of a Ford F-250 pickup truck than a Mercedes-Benz AMG, something's are a little rough and tumble, but hey it all works really well. I cannot say that I have in all the years I have owned the saw used the miter gauge or the slot..

I would second that the big Italian bandsaws forte isn't running narrow blades, best I have run is 3/16" and setup is fussy as all get out with the euro guide too..Having said all this, I would buy another MM bandsaw in a second, just might be a MM20 if I got another chance..

[ian maybury]

Mitre slots on bandsaws are an interesting phenomenon Robert - the UK spec NRA 600 Agazzani (pretty much the B-24) doesn't have one at all. I've managed just fine using various triangular ply right angles cut on a panel saw equipped with a good quality mitre gauge.

That said there's been a few times where i wanted to make an angled cut, and it would have been a bit more convenient if the saw had a mitre gauge.

It seems like quite a few prefer to run a small bandsaw for profile cutting, and leave the big guy set up with a more general purpose blade in. That's understandable - switching blades and guides can be a bit of a PIA at times. Even though it's not necessarily a big job. I'm unfortunately very limited on floor space, so c'est la vie...

The low camber is the other factor in running narrow blades on big Italians - smaller general purpose saws run more camber which does stronger tracking/centreing on narrow blades/in the face of misalignments resulting from low frame rigidity etc. - but at the price of less than stable running/sensitivity to set up details. That too amounts to a fact of life/basic choice - the low camber (and other aspects of a heavy saw like frame stiffness) bring very big benefits in terms of stability of cut line/minimal drift, generally minimal fussiness and ability to run wider blades.

The bit i haven't tested my saw on is with narrow (say 1/8, 3/16 or 1/4in) blades set up the Blasco or Carter Stabilizer way - but reports suggest (?) that they work very well. Another question relating to these set ups is just how tightly the blade band needs to fit in the slot on the guide roller or block. Judging by the Carter demo videos (there's video of profile cutting on the Minimax US website too) it's possible it doesn't need to be tight - that the slot is required only to prevent the blade being pushed sideways across the wheels, and that beyond that twisting of the blade as the workpiece is turned actually desirable to assist it in making very tight turns…..

[Erich Larson]

I was recently quoted on an MM16 and it was specified with Euro guides. They also suggest that if I plan to run a 1/4" blade I should call in order to get suggestions.

[Erik Loza]

Rich, I just replied to your emails. Sorry, you caught me out of town over the weekend.


...They also suggest that if I plan to run a 1/4" blade I should call in order to get suggestions.

For thin blades on this bandsaw, you want the Carter Stabilizer "CTR4"...

http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-stabilizer/carter-3-4-stud-ctr4

Best,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Robert LaPlaca]

Ian, I would love to have a smaller bandsaw that I could set up as a curve cutting saw and leave my MM setup as as the re sawing and rough ripping monster that it excels at, I am like you I just don't have the space for two saws...

In am sure the Carter guides are the best thing since sliced bread, they look a little too rich for my blood.. Lucky I don't run narrow blades too often.

[ian maybury]

The Blasco method is almost zero cost Robert. Depending on your perspective the Carter stabiliser isn't too bad either at i think around $80 - much cheaper than the main guides they do...