Proper hand screw torque

[David Ragan]

How much do you all tighten your plane cap screws, and spokeshave screws, and other assorted hand tighten tool parts?

My suspicion is that I overtighten.

Should I just go with less (just "snug") and then see when the blade starts to move back?

Sometimes, I have a hard time getting them loose. Especially the LV sharpening jig. Especially. Just paranoid the blade will move while sharpening-bad news, right?

[Brian Holcombe]

Wood/brass or brass/brass much less so than steel/steel. I am occasionally guilty of not tightening enough, but I feel that is better than the alternative.

also I usually put a good bit of camellia oil on working parts and screws to reduce the effort needed to move them.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Turn it until something snaps, then back it off a half turn.

[John Coloccia]

I use the Guttenteit method.

[glenn bradley]

I am an often accused over-tightener. On my hand tools I consciously use less torque than I normally would. Like Brian, if it slips I use a bit more as opposed to going all-in right off the bat. You tend to get a feel for each tool and the torque required after a bit of use.

[Zach Dillinger]

Turn it until something snaps, then back it off a half turn.

Mr. Pierce must have some experience with repairing classic cars. That's the method I use!

[george wilson]

How can such a question be answered? We all do not have mini torque wrenches to quantify tightening.

On your planes,experimentally try just tightening some and use it to see if the blade slips. Tighten some more gradually finding out what is enough to keep the blade from slipping.

[Ryan Baker]

I like Joshua's method the best.

I don't crank down on things with all my might, but I suppose I tend more toward the "tight" side of things than the "just snug" side. I'd rather have something too tight than learning in the middle of an important cut that something moved. So obviously it varies with the situation. If something moving would be a mini disaster, tighten some more. Experimenting ahead of time is a good idea too. But if one is mechanically inclined at all, you tend to develop a pretty good sense for how much you can tighten something without risk of causing damage.

[george wilson]

I try to include those who are not mechanically inclined in my scenarios. But,what you say about those who are is true,Ryan.

[David Ragan]

Now I know for sure that this area is more art than science; I ask the question because there is not an easy answer.

[Jim Koepke]

Now I know for sure that this area is more art than science; I ask the question because there is not an easy answer.

It will be different for different situations. For the science side of it there are charts and wrenches in various units of length/weight measurements. For the home woodworker it is experience and personal preference.


Experimenting ahead of time is a good idea too. But if one is mechanically inclined at all, you tend to develop a pretty good sense for how much you can tighten something without risk of causing damage.

Experimenting with things for a few hours in the shop or home is one way to build a good store of knowledge more vast than all that can be read on the internet in the same time.

My experience taught me fairly early that it is easy to snap a bolt. Like many things, if you do it all the time you get a feel for it.

Having a torque wrench is handy because it can also be used to judge one's own strength.

jtk

[Winton Applegate]

As George Wilson said. Enough but no more. Slips ? Tighten a little more.
+ 1 on greasing the threads on the nuts on the sharpening jig so they are easy to get loose and add smooth washers if you have left yours off.

:cool:((((ha, ha, or to beat the horse a time or two more . . . use the Bevel Up planes with the Norris style adjuster (Veritas) and SHE AIN'GONNA SLIP even with light cap screw setting))))) ((((sorry couldn't help it))))).

aaaaaaannnnnnnnd maybe this will help (http://sheldonbrown.com/tork-grip.html).
I never go anywhere without it.:D:):p

[Brian Holcombe]

I think my dial inch-lb torque wrench takes the cake for most un-used tool. I bought it prior to developing 'feel' for setting ring and pinion gears to spec and it's sat in the box ever since.

[Winton Applegate]

most un-used tool

Yes . . . most every thing an experienced mechanic can just do without the torque wrench.
For flanged/gasketed set ups that is when the old torquerator helps to get that nice even force all around. Some bolts in my trade have people dropping their jaw when I tighten the fastener to the "must have to keep it from falling apart torque" and then let them put a fraction of a turn on it to feel for them selves what that is.

I love the response by one factory rep to a chronic problem we had many years ago: "Grease the thing you are NEVER supposed to grease and DOUBLE THE TORQUE.
So much for rules and specs.

[Jim Koepke]

I think my dial inch-lb torque wrench takes the cake for most un-used tool.

There is a tool in my kit that is less used. That would be a cracking tool to pop open the early Macintosh cases. My torque wrech did see service back in the days of me doing VW work. Then again it was used while employed as a transit vehicle technician for a public rail transit district. Another tool comes to mind, my fence ring pliers don't get a lot of use either.

Most of the time letting go of a tool, even a little used tool, has brought on second thoughts. Now only tools that have duplicates or triplicates are sold off or given away.

jtk

[David Ragan]

That is a great idea, to set up my in-lbs wrench to see how much torque I am generating by feel. Excellent Idea!!

By flat washers on the sharpening jig--I will try that.

Thanks

[Stew Hagerty]

There's a reason it's a "hand screw" instead of having a slot, or socket, or some other way to use a mechanical contrivance on it.

These were designed by some fairly smart people, well most of the time at least, I figure just snugged up with the fingertips is about where they planned it.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Mr. Pierce must have some experience with repairing classic cars. That's the method I use!

Oh, on cars the method is usually penetrating oil, heat, swearing, get close, and then snap the thing as I'm trying to loosen it; totally different than the snap something as I tighten it method used on smaller projects indoors.

[David Ragan]

The instruction sheet to the Shelix for DW 735 says that the amount of torque for the hand is around 45 in-lbs

[bob blakeborough]

Sometimes, I have a hard time getting them loose. Especially the LV sharpening jig. Especially. Just paranoid the blade will move while sharpening-bad news, right?

With the LV jig, I used to do the same thing. I figured it out better as time went on to the point where I only snug it slightly and I can still move the blade in the jig if I try. The thing with using that jig I have found is that it works better when you are only using it as a guide with almost no pressure on the jig itself. If you are just snugging it to the point where the blade is held but it still moveable with a light bit of force, and you train yourself to lighten your pressure while sharpening so it does not move while doing the deed, it makes it go better and and your sharpening will improve and not be as tiring.

At least I have found it to be so. I have progressed on the the point where I sharpen almost exclusively freehand now other than when resetting completely a new bevel, and using the jig this way has helped me learn a lighter touch which I feel contributed greatly to learning the confidence to go freehand...