Side Rabbet Plane

[David Ragan]

I can't get this plane to work properly.

Have a sharp edge, thin cut. What am I missing?

It seems awkward to use also-no doubt better at cutting the sides of grooves than dados(?)

[Chris Griggs]

Did you file off the sharp corner of the blade? If this hasn't been done, then when the blade is set to take a cut the corner will protude, dig into the bottom of the dado/groove and generally get in the way of you being able to take full width cut of the side.

When setup correctly it should be able to cut the end grin sides of dados with ease.

[David Ragan]

It came with a bit of the corner removed. End Grain easily? I must be doing something wrong. Probably need to file a little more off. I have the factory L/N----those need filing?

[Jim Koepke]

David,

Which maker's side rabbet are you using?

The blades need to be very sharp. Also there isn't enough of a clearance angle for the blade to have a back bevel or to use the ruler trick.

Chris hit on another problem that can sometimes be lessened by use of the depth gauge, if yours has a depth gauge.

Mine get used in dados as often as in other situations.

A piece of scrap can be helpful for setting the blade.

Your profile doesn't list your location. Any chance you are in the Portland, Oregon area? If you are in this area let me know if you would like to get together to get your side rabbet(s) to work. If you have mentioned your location in the past, I may have forgotten.

jtk

[David Ragan]

Jim, Ihave the L/N.

Back bevel? Great idea:)!

Depth gauge?

I am in Georgia.

Had to fly to Seattle a while back it was B-r-u-t-a-l. I abhor travel anyway. Fortunately, I slept all the way back.

[Jim Koepke]

I have the factory L/N----those need filing?

Only if the blade extends below the skate when set to cut. You will notice a groove at the bottom of your dado or slot where the blade is cutting into the floor if the blade needs some work. It may be wise to hold off on filing until you can determine if it is needed.

The L/N may need some honing of the blade before it cuts real well.

Is it cutting straight grain?

Are you having a problem with the blade sliding over end grain or stalling on end grain.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Back bevel? Great idea:)!

Depth gauge?

Hopefully the smiley indicates you understand a back bevel could cause the problem to become worse.

If you bought these from Lie-Nielsen they should have guides on the back that are set to match the depth of the slot where the side rabbet is used.

jtk

[David Ragan]

No i do not understand that. is that why back bevels are not used more often?

I have a small book about back bevels. Author made it seem like WW most under used method for great results. Should I post a thread asking for the low-down?

I will look at the planes tonite.

[Jim Koepke]

No i do not understand that. is that why back bevels are not used more often?

On a bevel up plane a back bevel will reduce your clearance angle. On a side rabbet plane there is only 8º of clearance. Reducing this will have a most notable effect on end grain since it is more springy compared to edge grain.

In some places a back bevel may be the bee's knees. My travels have never taken me to that place.

Same with camber, there are a few places where my blades are intentionally cambered. A side rabbet isn't the place.

Here is something of mine on blade camber:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?158373-My-Camber-Blade-Round-Tuit-Finally-Came

The camber is applied to a bevel up plane by adding a back bevel. A low angle block plane is bedded at 12º giving it a little extra clearance for a back bevel. In the case of the plane in the post, a partial back bevel at the sides causes it to not cut at the edges.

A back bevel may give great results in some situations. Like so many other techniques, having a little may be good. Having any in the wrong place may be a hinderance.

jtk

[Chris Griggs]

I have the LV (doesn't come with the corner filed off), so I don't know if the LNs come with the corner filed but, regardless check to see if its protruding after you set it to the depth you want, and if it is file it down some more.

LV has a video on theirs that is helpful when first learning to set this kind of plane up. Even though its a different plane than what you have, the basic setup ideas/needs should be the same.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Home/VideoPopup.aspx?v=95

[Jim Koepke]

I have the LV (doesn't come with the corner filed off), so I don't know if the LNs come with the corner filed but, regardless check to see if its protruding after you set it to the depth you want, and if it is file it down some more.

The need to file down the corner is on a plane to plane basis. One of mine needs a little adjustment the other doesn't.

Though the video is of a differently designed tool, it is useful to owners of other makes of side rabbet planes.

Interesting the video said its sole purpose is to widen dados. Mine have even been used to make small rabbets, clean up shoulders on tenons and clean up edges on plowed slots and large rabbets.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

I can't get this plane to work properly.

Have a sharp edge, thin cut. What am I missing?

It seems awkward to use also-no doubt better at cutting the sides of grooves than dados(?)

These are planes that need very sharp blades - no half measures. This is usually the difference between success and failure.

A comparison of Stanley, LN and Veritas models here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/TheVeritasSideRabbetPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Ragan]

Jim, thanks for that in depth article on the camber. I must read it. Just cant right now.

My L/N comes with a bit of the corner filed off.

Last night, I tried out, and it worked fine. Even appeared to do a decent job on end grain. I suppose I had the blade out too far before. All is well for now. thanks

[Jim Koepke]

I suppose I had the blade out too far before.

Getting just the right setting is a bit of a chore.

I am not sure with the L/N or other models, but the Stanley models can develop cracks if the blade is set to an overly deep cut or the blade holding screw is set too tight.

jtk

[Pat Barry]

I can't get this plane to work properly.

Have a sharp edge, thin cut. What am I missing?

It seems awkward to use also-no doubt better at cutting the sides of grooves than dados(?)
I am not seeing the picture of the plane you posted. I can't see them at work if they are from photobucket or similar because that content gets blocked but its the first time this has happened at home. DId you post the picture directly or is it through a service?

[Jim Koepke]

I am not seeing the picture of the plane you posted. I can't see them at work if they are from photobucket or similar because that content gets blocked but its the first time this has happened at home. DId you post the picture directly or is it through a service?

There were pictures?

They didn't show up on my computer.

jtk

[Pat Barry]

There were pictures?

They didn't show up on my computer.

jtk
Sorry - I misunderstood. I thought there was a pic. Nevermind.

[Ryan Baker]

I have one of those planes somewhere. I believe mine is a WoodRiver, but it is a similar design to the Veritas (without the Veritas handle design). I really dislike that plane. It is very uncomfortable to hold, and I have not gotten it to work very well. If the dado/groove you are working on is shallow, it is very hard to keep these planes registered and vertical. Most of the trouble is likely my own fault for not taking the time to get it set up very well in what little I have used it. Trying to get the blade depth adjusted is annoying to say the least. One of these companies needs to add a depth adjuster to their design.

That said, I have a project on the bench where I need to slightly widen a bunch of grooves, so I am off to dig out that plane and tune it up. Maybe I can get it behaving itself. Then maybe I can borrow some ideas from the Veritas and find a way to get a more comfortable handle on it instead of the little knob it has now.

[Jim Koepke]

One of these companies needs to add a depth adjuster to their design.

One company did:

302357

The Veritas spokeshave following the Preston design made me wonder why they didn't work with this design.

They do offer a lot on the curve of learning. Learning to hone a blade at a skew, developing a light touch to move the blade for adjustment.

Once you get them to take a fine cut, you will love what the can do to the rough edge of a dado, slot or rabbet.

My wife is calling, more later.

jtk

[Thomas Schneider]

Man, that is one fine looking plane! My only complaint about my Stanley 98 is how hard it is to finely adjust the blade, but once it's adjusted I find it fun to use. I also had to take a file to the very tip of the point to stop it from digging in to the work.

Tom.

[Ryan Baker]

I hadn't seen that Preston. Cool little plane.

I spent some time this afternoon fixing up my little side rabbet plane and getting it adjusted. It's working pretty well now actually. A huge leap over where it was before. It made pretty quick, clean work of the grooves I had to widen slightly. I still find it [at least this model] somewhat awkward to hold. But for those few times when you need it you really need it. Good thing to have around.