Delta Rockwell Wood Lathe (left outside for a year)- should I buy?

[Rob Schwartz]

Hello!

I am completely new to turning (have used other power tools, band saw, table saw, radial arm saw, etc) and was looking at this one wood lathe
(same model as the one pictured, but not the real deal). It has been left out in the elements (Denver, CO) for over a year but looks not too rusty. I can post pics if you are interested sometime soon.

Anyway, it has all of the parts besides a safety shield but it is rather rusty. The electronics cabinet looks to be sealed pretty tightly and the motor is underneath the headstock, so they should be in good condition (hopefully). It also comes with about 6 or so turning chisels and maybe a couple live or dead centers if I ask nicely.

Bottom line, they said it would cost $40 and takes 115V. Nothing wrong in my mind with starting a new hobby, and already have built my own 3D printer.

However, I will probably need to get lessons (recommendations?) and I will also need to move it to my home. Will a pallet jack and a flatbed truck be good enough for that? And can I put it in the garage?

Anyway, here is a photo of the exact same model (same keyed on switch), but not the one I am looking at specifically. Let me know if you want pics.

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Should I get it? Lots of work to clean up the rusty lathe (and maybe a new paint job) but I have the time and patience. What do you think?

Thanks,
Rob Schwartz

[Rob Schwartz]

Just found a group of woodturners in Denver... maybe I could get lessons from them :) http://www.frontrangewoodturners.org/

[Roger Chandler]

Just me..........maybe not you, but I would let that deal pass! Outside in the elements for a year, will mean not only rust, but pitting on the unprotected areas. :eek: Electronics will draw moisture, even if enclosed, so to me, taking a chance on such an old lathe with that condition.........unless you are one who enjoys doing complete restorations of old iron.....;).....again, just me!

[Paul Williams]

If the bed is not pitted but only lightly rusted I would take a chance on it for $40. There are a lot of folks here who have rebuilt that lathe with very good results. If everything but the frame, spindle, and bed are ruined, you could still convert it to VFD with a new motor. I am not aware of parts availability, but the bearings are bound to be standard size and available. I think it comes down to are you willing to do the work to restore or do you want to get to spinning wood right away.

[Rob Schwartz]

Just me..........maybe not you, but I would let that deal pass! Outside in the elements for a year, will mean not only rust, but pitting on the unprotected areas. :eek: Electronics will draw moisture, even if enclosed, so to me, taking a chance on such an old lathe with that condition.........unless you are one who enjoys doing complete restorations of old iron.....;).....again, just me!

It didn't seem pitted to me, but I'll take a peek at that tomorrow. Thanks for letting me know about the amount of work needed- I will keep that in mind and take a peek at the electronics. I'm guessing starting it right now is not a good idea without disconnecting the belts. Appreciate the advice.

[Rob Schwartz]

If the bed is not pitted but only lightly rusted I would take a chance on it for $40. There are a lot of folks here who have rebuilt that lathe with very good results. If everything but the frame, spindle, and bed are ruined, you could still convert it to VFD with a new motor. I am not aware of parts availability, but the bearings are bound to be standard size and available. I think it comes down to are you willing to do the work to restore or do you want to get to spinning wood right away.

VFD? Sorry, not familiar with the lingo here. Does that mean a variable frequency drive? Also, how much would a new motor be if I decided to get one?

Can I look at one of the restoration pages? It would be good to figure out the necessary steps so I don't go it alone. :)

Not worried about turning as of now- I'm willing to invest some time for the reward in the end. It'll be a good learning process too, I'm guessing.

[Roger Chandler]

Rob.........if you are willing and able to do restoration and such, then $40 is a great price. If the motor still works, then that is a plus! One can purchase electric motors, sometimes, rebuilt ones at reasonable prices. A new belt and use the pulleys that come with the unit, and away you go. Deep pitting on the cast iron bed ways is a problem. Also check to make sure the quill operates like it should......some older ones are just plain worn out, and finding replacement parts can be a real problem.......our club has one of those, perhaps a little older that we were going to restore, and the members decided it was just in too bad a condition with the quill problems it has, so they opted to purchase a couple of Jet 1221's and are looking at another big lathe for the club.

Also, reeves drive need regular maintenance, so make sure it works well or get a VFD........if you go that route, in my opinion, you would be better off getting a new lathe, because you will have nearly as much in parts and such as you would spend on a fairly good new lathe!

[Rob Schwartz]

One bonus about the quill is that they have extra quills that they might be able to give me... non-rusted ones too. So that should work out just fine. I think I'll disconnect the belts and inspect the electronics tomorrow. If everything looks good, then I'll test-plug it in (worst case scenario something is messed up and it breaks badly, but that was going to happen anyway).

[Marvin Hasenak]

For $40 I would already have closed the deal. Then I would find out if it was all fixable. It is a wood lathe, not a metal lathe that needs precision a little pitting on the ways wouldn't kill the deal for me, a lot changes the game plan. The Reeves drive might be frozen from gunk, but that should clean up.

[Duane Meadows]

It didn't seem pitted to me, but I'll take a peek at that tomorrow. Thanks for letting me know about the amount of work needed- I will keep that in mind and take a peek at the electronics. I'm guessing starting it right now is not a good idea without disconnecting the belts. Appreciate the advice.


Shouldn't be any "electronics"... power switch and a motor. Unless someone has added a digital readout, VFD, or something. As others have said, for $40 bucks, I'd grab it. If you do nothing but sell a couple part off of it, you'll come out ahead!

[Dale Miner]

This opinion is probably worth about 50% of what it costs, but here goes.

First, The gap in the bed at the headstock end is an older concept. Most lathes in this size with some vintage to them have that feature. The idea was that a larger diameter faceplate piece could be turned, and in school shop classes it was common to glue up a platter blank and make a shallow bowl or plate. A bad part of this design is that the gap isn't long enough to allow for use of a chuck to hold the blank and still swing the blank in the gap. Chucks for woodlathes were not used when the gap bed idea was common. Another bad part of the gap bed design is that it prevents the banjo from being used up close to the headstock. This is not a problem for most spindle work, but on short items it can become awkward. Not impossible, just awkward.

Your situation and what you enjoy will dictate what you do. The $40 is really not a consideration, as the scrap value is close to that. From that standpoint, you can't get hurt regardless. If you enjoy or at least don't mind restoration of machines, then the rehab will be the reward for undertaking the project.

If your primary purpose is to get into woodturning, then a lathe that needs to be worked on before it can be used and has a few quirks that make it less than enjoyable to use once in running order, then this lathe may not be a good choice.

I would pass and look for a more modern lathe.

[Curt Stivison]

I might consider buying it and dismantal it and sale the parts. Take the profits from the sale of parts and buy a good used lathe.
Curt

[Wally Dickerman]

I had that same lathe a long time ago and used it for quite a few years. It's a well built lathe with a 12 inch swing over the bed. The gap is only usable for platters. (In those days almost no lathe had a larger swing). My only real problem with the lathe was the reeves drive. Just wasn't well designed. But it worked. It's under powered (I seem to recall a 3/4 hp motor). However, unless you take heavy cuts on a 10 inch bowl that's not a problem.

I turned many hundreds of bowls and a lot of spindles on my Delta before upgrading to a bigger and better lathe.

For a beginners lathe at $40 it's real steal. Grab it. If you spend a few bucks fixing it up you'll have a good lathe for not much money.

You mention taking lessons....Best thing you could do. There is no substitute for hands-on learning. A good teacher will advise you on the tools you'll need to start. Many turners will tell you that you'll need a chuck to start. You don't. IMO it's best to learn with a faceplate and a glue block.

[Steve Peterson]

For $40 I would already have closed the deal. Then I would find out if it was all fixable. It is a wood lathe, not a metal lathe that needs precision a little pitting on the ways wouldn't kill the deal for me, a lot changes the game plan. The Reeves drive might be frozen from gunk, but that should clean up.

I agree. I can't believe all the people that would turn down that lathe for $40. I would have been reaching for my wallet quickly before the guy changes his mind.

It does not look like it has been outside for a year. It must have been covered and protected well.

Steve

[Wes Ramsey]

For $40 you can't lose. If it turns into too much work you should be able to get more than that at the scrap yard. If you decide to scrap it let me know. I'd be interested in the banjo, tool rest and shaft.

[Wally Dickerman]

I'll add to what I've already said.....Folks have mentioned weather damage to the electronics. The only electronics on that lathe is the motor. It's a reeves drive which is a device that is used with a lever to change speeds. That has a belt and pulleys.

You mentioned 6 or so tools. They may or may not have value. The lathe was made in the 1970's. That's when I had mine. If the tools came with the lathe they are no doubt carbon steel with not much value. If they were purchased later and are high speed steel they are worth over $200.

[Charles Robertson]

If I lived near Denver, you wouldn't have to worry about the rust. I live 1 mile from the Ocean and we have real rust. Nothing has to be perfect on a wood lathe, just safe. You are not machining watch parts. Try turning the drive/motor by hand. Make sure switch box is clean (no wet dust). Plug it in, try switch. I would have had it by now. Good luck with it. It will be an above average learning lathe.

[Rob Schwartz]

Thanks so much for the advice, everyone. I'll buy it. :)

I'll post some pictures soon as well (the one above is not the real thing, just the same model). I can also show what the tools look like to determine what sort of metal they are made of.

Based on the amazing feedback that I've got here in just a couple hours, I'm very impressed and will be sure to get you all updates soon.

If it turns out to be a bust, I'll get in touch with anyone who is interested in parts.

Thanks again,
Rob

[Brian Myers]

There is a lot more than $40 in parts if you need to part it out or if you have the room , hold on to it for a little bit. You could watch for another that may need some parts you would already have.

[Doug Ladendorf]

Having restored a number of machines I notice one thing that gets underrepresented when the topic of restoration comes up; the knowledge you get from the process. If you enjoy learning and have some knack for mechanical things you may even find it as fun as the woodworking itself. There is nothing like putting machines to work that you truly "own."

[Rob Schwartz]

Having restored a number of machines I notice one thing that gets underrepresented when the topic of restoration comes up; the knowledge you get from the process. If you enjoy learning and have some knack for mechanical things you may even find it as fun as the woodworking itself. There is nothing like putting machines to work that you truly "own."

Definitely. After building a RepRap 3D printer from scratch, I have a much greater understanding of the simple things- the benefits of a rigid construction, lubricants, threadlocker... and techniques that I would have never found out if I purchased one. I also have become very attached to it because I do feel like I truly "own" it.

After constructing that and getting it to print parts, I got the confidence in my mechanical abilities to take this project on... lots of great opportunities.

[Rob Schwartz]

So I got some (blurry) pictures of the lathe itself. I wasn't able to turn it on because I need to find the "on" key. Not sure how to do that yet.

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I inspected the ways and they are not pitted at all, just rusty, which is great.

I had one big question- in this picture of the same model, there is this round disc piece on the pallet in front of the lathe. Mine does not have that part. Is it important? Does it attach to the headstock? Or can I use a drive center (or safety drive center)?

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Thanks.

[Thom Sturgill]

...I had one big question- in this picture of the same model, there is this round disc piece on the pallet in front of the lathe. Mine does not have that part. Is it important? Does it attach to the headstock? Or can I use a drive center (or safety drive center)?



Hard to tell for sure, but that is probably a faceplate. Yes it goes on the headstock spindle and yes you can just use a drive center. Faceplate would be for cross-grain mounting for bowls, platters etc. Most turners now use scroll chucks instead, but the faceplate gives the most secure attachment, and many still advocate its use. Between centers is used for starting a bowl to make the tenon and for general spindle work where the grain runs the length of the bed rather than across it.

[Bob Bergstrom]

From the looks of the tail stock, it is the same. If the speed handle is there it certainly is. The older model has a wheel for changing speeds and more cumbersome to opperate. I turned on on of these for about 12 years. It was a great lathe. Pull the lid off over the pulleys and see if the little notches on the outboard side of the pully are stripped out. This is used for indexing and many used in schools were broken out by engaging the indexing pin with the lath running. Sold mine in the Chicago area for $500 5 years ago.

[Rob Schwartz]

From the looks of the tail stock, it is the same. If the speed handle is there it certainly is. The older model has a wheel for changing speeds and more cumbersome to opperate. I turned on on of these for about 12 years. It was a great lathe. Pull the lid off over the pulleys and see if the little notches on the outboard side of the pully are stripped out. This is used for indexing and many used in schools were broken out by engaging the indexing pin with the lath running. Sold mine in the Chicago area for $500 5 years ago.

Good news- they look just fine to me:

302287

Thanks for letting me know.

[Mike Wilkins]

Go ahead and buy it for $40 and sell it to me for $80. Seriously, I would jump on this machine even with a little rust. I have rebuilt older/rusty machinery and will do it again, since these machines are built nicer & heavier than some newer iron. And the price is attractive. You should be able to find a turner in your area to assist in getting this machine going. I am not a turning-only woodworker, but love good heavy machinery just the same.

[Doug Ladendorf]

That should clean up nicely Rob. Google "Kroil" and get some to soak the stuck parts. Get a wire wheel for your angle grinder and bench grinder, and if you can, pick up a finishing Beartex convolute wheel for more metal work.

[Marvin Hasenak]

DO NOT USE SANDPAPER ON THE WAYS, I believe it is 3M that makes some pads, cannot thing of the name right now, maybe someone else can. It works like an abrasive but won't remove metal.

[Doug Ladendorf]

DO NOT USE SANDPAPER ON THE WAYS, I believe it is 3M that makes some pads, cannot thing of the name right now, maybe someone else can. It works like an abrasive but won't remove metal.

ScotchBrite? +1 I use with WD-40 as a lubricant.

[Bob Bergstrom]

Good news- they look just fine to me:


302287

Thanks for letting me know.
That piece a lone is worth over $100 to a restorer. That is going to be a great lathe even if it was a lot more. WD 40 works great for removing rust. Scotch Brite or some mild steel wool. No sand disks or paper. I'm totally jealous.

[Brian Myers]

I believe that spindle is 1" x 8tpi and has MT2 tapers in the headstock and tailstock. All very common and very easy to find faceplates , chucks and other accessories . That is a steal !

[Rob Schwartz]

That piece a lone is worth over $100 to a restorer. That is going to be a great lathe even if it was a lot more. WD 40 works great for removing rust. Scotch Brite or some mild steel wool. No sand disks or paper. I'm totally jealous.

Aw thanks :) Looking forward to restoring it.


I believe that spindle is 1" x 8tpi and has MT2 tapers in the headstock and tailstock. All very common and very easy to find faceplates , chucks and other accessories . That is a steal !

I suppose so! I actually ended up getting a faceplate with the lathe, so it did work out. Thanks for the info.


That should clean up nicely Rob. Google "Kroil" and get some to soak the stuck parts. Get a wire wheel for your angle grinder and bench grinder, and if you can, pick up a finishing Beartex convolute wheel for more metal work.

Thanks for the tips.


DO NOT USE SANDPAPER ON THE WAYS, I believe it is 3M that makes some pads, cannot thing of the name right now, maybe someone else can. It works like an abrasive but won't remove metal.


ScotchBrite? +1 I use with WD-40 as a lubricant.

I have some of those ScotchBrite pads- I'll try em out tomorrow.

[Rob Schwartz]

I bought it just a couple hours ago and it is now in my garage (quality pictures here) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/121897599@N03/sets/72157649820415032):

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7524/15867478698_408f90bc46_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qb9YAW)IMG_4057 (https://flic.kr/p/qb9YAW) by robschwartz22 (https://www.flickr.com/people/121897599@N03/), on Flickr

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8593/16029159306_7c79f9e559_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qqrCBC)IMG_4087 (https://flic.kr/p/qqrCBC) by robschwartz22 (https://www.flickr.com/people/121897599@N03/), on Flickr

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8621/15867652500_75cf0e3082_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qbaSgw)IMG_4084 (https://flic.kr/p/qbaSgw) by robschwartz22 (https://www.flickr.com/people/121897599@N03/), on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7561/16029156386_4506bb6e92_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qqrBKh)IMG_4077 (https://flic.kr/p/qqrBKh) by robschwartz22 (https://www.flickr.com/people/121897599@N03/), on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7490/16054249172_258977bdd2_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qsEdXw)IMG_4078 (https://flic.kr/p/qsEdXw) by robschwartz22 (https://www.flickr.com/people/121897599@N03/), on Flickr

I ended up getting all of this stuff (in various conditions) with the lathe from the seller:



a new (!) safety guard
2 safety drive centers
1 4-prong drive center
1 rusty live center
4 different tool rests (see image)
1 steady rest
1 non-rusty tailstock (now I have 2)
12 different chisels (varying degrees of sharpness)
1 large faceplate


I immediately also noticed that the front cabinet panel is missing. Not a huge deal, because it's just a piece of metal with vent holes in it. I could most likely fabricate one at some point.

So I began a bit of work today in disassembling and cataloging the pieces (I'm putting all the small parts in plastic bags with a sticky note with the number from the manual). WD-40 has been absolutely essential so far. I've been taking pictures the whole time of the lathe and posting them on an album on Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/121897599@N03/sets/72157649820415032/) as well.

I managed to get to the point where I could take out lots of screws and parts to get a good idea of how to take apart the spindle (where I'm starting). The gear changer piece is engaged in the gear, which makes the spindle unable to spin. In an effort to remove the pin holding the gear changer part in place, part of it broke off and it is still holding the gear changer part in place. No big deal for now, but I'll think of something.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7579/16052996891_7e8b82c502_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qsxNGt)IMG_4112 (https://flic.kr/p/qsxNGt) by robschwartz22 (https://www.flickr.com/people/121897599@N03/), on Flickr

Otherwise, I need a large wrench to get the nut off the spindle. Everything else is progressing along very well.

The only other thing that I noticed was that the paint job is not doing well. I'm thinking of repainting it once it is ready to be reassembled, but in some flashy color like red. We"ll see :)

[Dale Gillaspy]

I'd agree with going for it. $40 is nothing, and it seems by your comments that about 1/2 of your excitement is in doing the re-building work. Nothing wrong with that. Worst case scenario, sell it to the next guy for what you have into it and upgrade. You really have nothing to loose. Yes...you can get it home on a pallet and flatbed or small trailer, no problem. And yes, setting it up in your garage will be perfect. That is what most of us do. If you are married, you may have to invest in an air compressor if you don't already have one to blow shavings off of yourself before going inside. That is, if you want to stay married.

[Bob Bergstrom]

The reeves drive mechanism probably will just need a a little lubrication. Don't disassemble if not necessary. The hole you show looks like the lock hole. If engaged the spindle does't turn. Don't hit it with a hammer or you'll break the indents. With the belts on, the spindle will be hard to turn over. You can pull the drive belt From the motor shaft and the rest will loosen up. With the belt off put the end of a thin piece of wood on the head stock and put your ear on the other end. You will hear the bearings rolling in the head stock. If they're not too noisy, try leaving the spindle alone. Rustolium paint will make it look like new. The extra tail stock could fetch $150 or more.

[Adam Petersen]

Wow, that's a heck of a deal. I am truly jealous!

[Steve Peterson]

It looks like some sort of bait and switch. The first picture you showed was a machine in good condition. The later pictures show a machine that really did sit outside for a year. Still a good deal. Congrats and have fun with it.

Steve

[Rob Schwartz]

It looks like some sort of bait and switch. The first picture you showed was a machine in good condition. The later pictures show a machine that really did sit outside for a year. Still a good deal. Congrats and have fun with it.

Steve

Sorry for the confusion there- the lathe in the first pictures was just to represent the model that I was going to get, not the real deal. I knew that it was nothing like the one I was looking at and inspected the rusty one before. Thanks for the tip :)

[Adam Petersen]

I want to be baited and switched like that. Where do I sign up?!?!

[Rob Schwartz]

More pictures here...

Tried out the ScotchBrite and WD-40 and I am thinking about trying steel wool to see if it goes any faster.

Anyway, the ways are getting to be better looking (slowly) and there is smooth, shiny steel underneath.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8661/16059287852_f6f08cb383_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qt73Mj)IMG_4115 (https://flic.kr/p/qt73Mj) by robschwartz22 (https://www.flickr.com/people/121897599@N03/), on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7567/16059290612_bec1afdd18_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qt74AU)IMG_4120 (https://flic.kr/p/qt74AU) by robschwartz22 (https://www.flickr.com/people/121897599@N03/), on Flickr

I'll be away for the weekend, so no lathe work. However, I'll have time next week to let you all know what happens. It was very satisfying to see the clean metal underneath the rust today and I can't wait to get the ways all sparkling.

[Bob Vallaster]

Rob,
The only thing pictured which could be confused for a faceplate is more likely a sanding disk, as it has no holes for wood attachment, looks to be 8-10" diameter and to have a slimmer cross-section than I would expect for a large faceplate. The clencher is whether it is made of aluminum (the old Delta sanding disk was). The usual Delta faceplates are 3" dia. (aluminum) and 6" (cast iron); both sizes have holes or radial slots for screws to retain the workpiece. A sanding disk is not a common find: think $$. And its cross-section is less robust. Don't drill a sanding disk to make it a faceplate: ruins the value of the accessory and risks failure/injury when the disk is put to a task it isn't designed for.

BobV

[Rob Schwartz]

Yep, it is probably a sanding disk. It has all sorts of glue on it and weighs the right amount for it to be aluminum. No holes either.

Seems like they are rather hard to find, but I found one similar to it online (http://www.gumtree.com/p/lathes/wood-lathe-9-ally-face-plate-for-sanding-or-polishing-3-4-16-tpi/1093028650). Thanks for the tip about not drilling holes-- I won't. After some googling it appears that most people who want to sand things make do with a piece of 3/4 in ply, and they just screw it to a faceplate and glue on the sandpaper. But I guess I'll have more options.

[Bob Vallaster]

RE: "...all sorts of glue on it...' If contact cement, let solvent be your friend. Turn faceplate face up. Dampen a paper towel with mineral spirits, pat it down to make full contact. Let sit while the solvent loosens the glue, then wipe off goo. Minimal elbow grease required.

And I am remiss for not saying earlier: you got a screamin' good deal on the lathe and accessories. The spare tailstock alone could triple your money or fund new bearings-n-belts. The previous owner might need professional counseling for seller's remorse.

BobV

[Doug Ladendorf]

A heat gun can help with the glue too, just not WITH the mineral spirits!

[David C. Roseman]

Rob, based on my modest experience restoring milled surfaces on cast-iron lathe ways and bench-machine tables, you're going to need more than steel wool and ScotchBrite pads to rejuvenate those ways. Especially if there is pitting, as there appears to be. The steel wool and pads will take forever, and if you're rubbing hard enough to remove the pitting, it will be virtually impossible to keep the surface flat.

I would do a patch test with WD-40 on some good quality 400 or 600 grit automotive-grade wet-dry sandpaper. Use a sanding block to keep the surface flat and gently work up a slurry of the lubricant. Wipe frequently with paper towel to see what you're getting.

David

[Paul Williams]

I second David's comment. Fine wet/dry sandpaper on a flat 8x10 inch plywood or mdf board held flat on those ways will do a better job a lot faster than steel wool.

[Marvin Hasenak]

From a machinist's point of view and trying to keep the ways flat and true. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/remove-rust-stains-lathe-bed-259864/

I tried the the molasses trick once, but the Evaporust is easier. I cleaned up a table saw that was horrific, I did not try to remove the pitting, just got the table saw smooth again. You don't want to alter the ways, just get them smooth again so that the tailstock and banjo will move easily on them. If you want a show piece and get rid to of the pitting, I would recommend taking it to a machine shop, but you will probably pay more than it is worth.

[Rob Schwartz]

Rob, based on my modest experience restoring milled surfaces on cast-iron lathe ways and bench-machine tables, you're going to need more than steel wool and ScotchBrite pads to rejuvenate those ways. Especially if there is pitting, as there appears to be. The steel wool and pads will take forever, and if you're rubbing hard enough to remove the pitting, it will be virtually impossible to keep the surface flat.

I would do a patch test with WD-40 on some good quality 400 or 600 grit automotive-grade wet-dry sandpaper. Use a sanding block to keep the surface flat and gently work up a slurry of the lubricant. Wipe frequently with paper towel to see what you're getting.

David


I second David's comment. Fine wet/dry sandpaper on a flat 8x10 inch plywood or mdf board held flat on those ways will do a better job a lot faster than steel wool.


From a machinist's point of view and trying to keep the ways flat and true. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/remove-rust-stains-lathe-bed-259864/

I tried the the molasses trick once, but the Evaporust is easier. I cleaned up a table saw that was horrific, I did not try to remove the pitting, just got the table saw smooth again. You don't want to alter the ways, just get them smooth again so that the tailstock and banjo will move easily on them. If you want a show piece and get rid to of the pitting, I would recommend taking it to a machine shop, but you will probably pay more than it is worth.

There really is no pitting on there that I could find. The first layer of red rust comes off, leaving a smooth black layer, and underneath the black layer there is very smooth, shiny metal. I haven't seen any issues with the metal being pitted in any way throughout the whole process.

The paper towels that I have been wiping with just come out rusty red, then darker red. I can send more pictures tomorrow night, but everything seems to be working very well. The rust isn't that thick, either.

If the ScotchBrite pads really don't work, then I'll try out the sandpaper. But right now everything seems to be going along fine.

I will be getting a gallon of Evapo-Rust from HFT to soak the smaller parts- and I can use some of it on the ways if it turns out to take too long. Thanks fo rthe tips and I will keep them in mind.

Rob

[Brian Myers]

Personally get a razor blade in a holder and scrape what rust you can off the ways then wd40 with scotchbrite pads to finish. Treat the pitting as you wish after this.

[Rob Schwartz]

RE: "...all sorts of glue on it...' If contact cement, let solvent be your friend. Turn faceplate face up. Dampen a paper towel with mineral spirits, pat it down to make full contact. Let sit while the solvent loosens the glue, then wipe off goo. Minimal elbow grease required.

And I am remiss for not saying earlier: you got a screamin' good deal on the lathe and accessories. The spare tailstock alone could triple your money or fund new bearings-n-belts. The previous owner might need professional counseling for seller's remorse.

BobV

In fact, I purchased the lathe from a school (shop class is now officially out of style) and they were more than happy to provide the extra parts :) Not sure if I want to use the tailstock as of now, but I sure will hold on to it! And now mineral spirits is on the shopping list! Thanks!

[Don Bunce]

As has been mentioned before, do not use sandpaper on the ways. Soak it with penetrating oil, ( I used Liquid Wrench), and carefully scrape off the rust with a one edged razor blade.

[Marc Tuunanen]

Just realize it will be a lot of work to resurrect that beast.

[Rob Schwartz]

Just realize it will be a lot of work to resurrect that beast.

Definitely. However, I am enjoying the restoration and learning new things, so whenever the restoration is done is fine. Hopefully it will be looking good by the end.

[Michael Mills]

If you have an angle grinder a cup brush makes cleanup like yours quick. Get at least a medium duty (not the fine wire), individually they are about $5. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200627839_200627839 link just for illustration.

I would also suggest a trip to the automotive store (Pep boys, Auto Zone, Advanced, etc) and pick up a bottle of "rust converter". Once you have it fairly clean a thin coating should be all you need and it can be left on as a primer. It changes any remaining rust (iron oxide) to iron phosphate.

[Marc Tuunanen]

Very nice score Rob. That will keep ya busy for awhile. I love these old machines.

Merry Christmas to you!

Cheers,
Marc

[ronald ainge]

Rob

let me be the first email I have seen from a wood turner in your area. I live in your Aurora, Co. and I am the new V.P. of the Front Range Woodturners. We meet the first Tuesday of each month at the Rockler store on Colorado Ave. about a half mile south of I-25. The meeting starts at 6:15 but you will need to get there early to get a parking space. I invite you to attend the meeting to see if you would like to join us and the club. I have owned a lathe just like the one you have and at first I could not get the variable speed to work but about 10 minutes and a few squirts of WD40 and it was working properly. This is a well built lather and if you at some time in the future want to sell it you will have no problem because there is always someone looking for a good lathe.

[Rob Schwartz]

Rob

let me be the first email I have seen from a wood turner in your area. I live in your Aurora, Co. and I am the new V.P. of the Front Range Woodturners. We meet the first Tuesday of each month at the Rockler store on Colorado Ave. about a half mile south of I-25. The meeting starts at 6:15 but you will need to get there early to get a parking space. I invite you to attend the meeting to see if you would like to join us and the club. I have owned a lathe just like the one you have and at first I could not get the variable speed to work but about 10 minutes and a few squirts of WD40 and it was working properly. This is a well built lather and if you at some time in the future want to sell it you will have no problem because there is always someone looking for a good lathe.

Hi Ronald!

I've looked at your website before, and the Front Range Woodturners club sounds very interesting to me. (You have a nice shop, by the way- saw the pictures on the site.) I would love to come over January 6th- I'll check to see if I can fit it in my schedule. Thank you for the invitation and I'll stay in touch.

Rob

[Rob Schwartz]

Finally got the indexing pin out of the indexing pulley- it was rusted into the headstock and I finally tapped it back in by being creative with scrap metal parts, screwdrivers, and a ton of WD-40 and Liquid Wrench. Hopefully I never have to repeat the experience again. Here it is, finally free:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8564/15462361694_2f07940c33_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pymDr1)IMG_4150 (https://flic.kr/p/pymDr1)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7528/16084669175_cd705d82cb_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qvm8Lk)IMG_4149 (https://flic.kr/p/qvm8Lk)

Plugged in the lathe and set up the safety switch... and it whirred to life! Spindle moves and the motor sounds pretty good! I'm amazed that it functions this well after being left outside for so long. Now that everything is working properly, it's time to clean the whole thing and take it apart. The ScotchBrite and WD-40 continue to work well on the ways, and I'm not wearing them down noticeably (after working on the ways and removing the rust, the original grinder marks are still visible).

More pictures (and maybe a video) soon!

[Charles Robertson]

I agree with Dave and Paul on the use of fine wet or dry sand paper with a lubricant. WD, thinner, Kero, Fluid Film. Metal workers have been using this for years to POLISH metal. Coarse grits will grind metal. I've tried it all, I'm with Dave and Paul. Use a sanding block or as I did on my Powermatic 90, (stored in a barn) random orbit with stiff pad. I've used this method on many vintage tools with no ill effects. It's similar to finishing furniture only the paper is finer. When finished polishing, wipe down with thinner, thin coat of Fluid Film-remove excess. Polish with dry cloth, then paste wax. This has worked for me, my family before me. Good luck and Happy New Year to all. Great pictures by the way,

[Scott Ticknor]

Glad to see that you got the lathe. For $40 you can`t lose. Don`t worry about what it doesn`t have or can`t do ...You got a lathe! It will serve you well.