1/4" shank flush trim bit 1 1/4" long?

[David Ragan]

I have got myself in the position where my 1/4" shank spiral flush trim pattern bit needs to be just a hair longer. It is 1" cutting length.

Can't find one longer than an inch. Any ideas?

[glenn bradley]

That's getting a little long for 1/4" shank bit but, MLCS has them.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html

[David Ragan]

That's getting a little long for 1/4" shank bit but, MLCS has them.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html

I came up empty there. Had a web chat with them.

[Matt Day]

It appears they do - item 5504 and 5509 for instance. I'd prefer to use a 1/2" at that size.

[glenn bradley]

It appears they do - item 5504 and 5509 for instance. I'd prefer to use a 1/2" at that size.

Same item numbers I was speaking of. I think there is some missing info in what David is looking for(?).

[Duane Meadows]

"Pattern" bit... like 6506? 1" max cutting length in 1/4" shank! Bearing is at the opposite end of the cutting edge. Top bearing as opposed to bottom for normal flush trim!

[Matt Day]

Duane, he needs slightly longer than 1", but a bit with top bearing might be able to be used by making two passes.

[Brian Gumpper]

Two passes was my thought, bearing rides template to cut wood and wood becomes template for next cut.

[David Ragan]

Two passes was my thought, bearing rides template to cut wood and wood becomes template for next cut.

That is a great idea for a top bearing bit.

I am making the G&G chest, cutting the fingers. I made an amateur mistake by making the panel ~7/8 to 15/16"" thick, instead of the plan 3/4"

my jig is on the bottom, to flush trim the fingers. The top of the bit burns the cherry. If I get it set up perfectly, the 1" cutting surface might not burn, if I keep the router moving also.

As Brian suggests tho, a top mounted bearing would be better, that way I could just gradually work my way down the piece, with the jig on the top. But, since the shank is also 1/4", that is going to burn also...

[pat warner]

Indeed if you exceed the cutting length you will burn stock, make a mess.
Use a small collar and an ordinary straight long cutter, no bearings.
These cutters are cheaper, safer and there is more inventory.

[David Ragan]

Indeed if you exceed the cutting length you will burn stock, make a mess.
Use a small collar and an ordinary straight long cutter, no bearings.
These cutters are cheaper, safer and there is more inventory.

Hey Pat, the corners of the finger recesses need to be 1/4" diameter bit (i guess a 1/8" radius), so since the maximum cutting length I can find anywhere for a 1/4" bit is 1", how do I do as you suggest:)?

[pat warner]

With templet? Then make the templet with 90° corners.
A collar hitting a 90 will allow the cutter to express its cutting diameter/2, exactly.
Long (flutes >>1") x 1/4"D are a dime a dozen without bearings.
SET, WMC, Amana e.g.
No templet? How are you steering things now?

[David Ragan]

Okay, let me see about it.....

[David Ragan]

I did find a Freud 1/4" single flute 1 1/2" cutting length.

Please recall that I am using a template over the 1" thick cherry, corners have to end up 1/8" radius. Fingers of the G&G chest.

To get around the issue of burning, how about it I put a small spacer b/t my template (where the shank rides) and the cherry (which must be trimmed flush w/o burning)? that way, the transition area of the bit will safely be in the spacer? 1/4" spacer? Is there any point to putting some furniture wax on the exposed edge of the plywood, where the shank will spin against?

[pat warner]

Yikes! Use PC/DW collar guide bushes.