Burned tool

[James Lehr]

So I started turning. My first attempt I used a 4x4 piece of pine lumber I had sitting around. I used my roughing gouge and made a cylinder. I started to practice making a tenon for my nova chuck and all of a sudden I smelled burning and I shut down the lathe. I looked at my parting tool and the tip looked "burnt". I have a picture I'll attach. My question is whether I can just grind a new bevel on the tool or is it now ruined/lost its tempering? Also, is the burning problem related to the pine, the speed of the lathe (1000 rpm approx), the quality of tool, or maybe technique?

[David Gilbert]

I have a couple of thoughts. First if your parting tool is High Speed Steel (HSS) then you don't have to worry about heating the tool up and loosing the temper. Second, if you are burning the wood when you cut than the tool probably needs to be sharpened. Third, when you are using a parting tool you should relieve the sides a bit so it doesn't bind and heat up. When making this cut you should be cutting at a tangent to the wood and slowly move in. If you don't widen the slot the wood will heat up and can (will) bind on the tool and cause a nasty catch. My guess is that most woods will burn like this if you don't widen the cut. It is possible that your speed may be excessive too. I would think that 1800 to 2000 rpm would be appropriate.

Welcome to the creek and enjoy your turning.

Cheers,
David

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

he said he was turning at 1000 rpm

I agree it needs to speed up.

personally - once I get the corners knocked off, I'd crank it up to max speed.

[Reed Gray]

That looks like friction burns. Since you were not very deep into the cut, I am guessing that you had the handle very low, and possible at a very slight angle. When making cuts with a parting tool, start with the tip high and rub the bevel. raise the handle till the tool just starts to cut. Your tool could also be dull. Generally if I am forming a tenon, I start at the end and work in towards the cylinder. Also, if you are making a deep part, you have to take a cut that is about 1 1/2 times wider than the tool width. One reason is the cut never seems to go in perfectly straight, and even if it does, it tends to wobble a bit and the blade will bind up in the cut.

robo hippy

[Richard Madden]

I agree with Reed. Sharpness, tool presentation to the wood and widening the cut are important. Try it again following Reed's advice. He knows what he's talking about.

[Marc Tuunanen]

Yup, Reed could be onto something. Also, if you have reverse on your lathe check to see your turning in the write direction. Don't ask how I know this..

Good turning,
Marc

[James Lehr]

Well, I will say that I didn't know about making the "cut" wider than the parting tool. I guess a lot of the youtubers just know this and don't really address it in their instructions. I look at the mistake now and I think it was a comedy of errors: new tool that's not really sharp, turning at too low speed, making a deep cut in a narrow gap, and pushing down on the bevel too much. I have also figured out that my lathe is setup way too high. The tool rest/center spindle of lathe is at chest height. I had counter space and tried it but I'll have to build it a workbench I guess. Thanks everyone for the tips.

[Dwight Rutherford]

James,
I think one of the best things you can do is find a woodturning club and contact them about any members that offer hands on mentoring. Your journey to successful and enjoyable turning will be much shorter. One or two hours with an experienced turner will be rewarded.
I believe one can learn about woodturning from books and videos but can only learn to turn by hands on instruction.

[Rick Fisher]

I have a beading tool that burns the wood if I have the tool rest too high .. If I lower it well below center, it cuts silky smooth. My Bedan on the other hand cuts better above the center line ..

I've only been doing this a month ... so its just an observation.

[Thom Sturgill]

I recently saw a chart that was about tool color and tempering. I think it was on one of Cindy Drozda's videos. Carbon steel tempers at a much lower temp than HSS, straw color which is lower temp than blue. HSS can get into the red range before losing temper. So the tool should be OK but may have been (read that as PROBABLY was) already dull and needs sharpening. Lots of good comments here about angle and relief in the cut.

[James Lehr]

James,
I think one of the best things you can do is find a woodturning club and contact them about any members that offer hands on mentoring. Your journey to successful and enjoyable turning will be much shorter. One or two hours with an experienced turner will be rewarded.
I believe one can learn about woodturning from books and videos but can only learn to turn by hands on instruction.

I connected with a turner who recently moved to my area from Virginia. He has been here 3 months and already found a club! Anyways, I'm supposed to go see his shop this week and talk about sharpening. The club he attends is only an hour away and we could commute. Unfortunately I missed December's meeting but I'm set to go in January.

[Thom Sturgill]

James,
I think one of the best things you can do is find a woodturning club and contact them about any members that offer hands on mentoring. Your journey to successful and enjoyable turning will be much shorter. One or two hours with an experienced turner will be rewarded.
I believe one can learn about woodturning from books and videos but can only learn to turn by hands on instruction.

Good advice. I used to watch a PBS show about turning years ago before I had a lathe, and New Yankee Workshop did several segments on turnings. While I enjoyed and thought I understood them, and HAVE used some of the tips since, they sure don't hold a candle to a session at a lathe with an experienced turner.

Glad you found a club, you will not regret the time it takes to go and the friends you will meet.