Signing Work

[Raymond Overman]

I recently ordered and finally recieved my new method of signing my work and thought I'd share the result. I still write the year and species underneath. It takes a little getting used to so I don't burn too shallow or too deep. It's kind of a one shot thing or you get a double stamp.

[Jim Becker]

Very nice design, Raymond. You are right about having to get used to the burn time for a crisp image...and it varies with species, too... ;)

[Jerry Clark]

That is cool Raymond!:)

[Ed Davidson]

That's an extra nice design...very attractive.

On my upscale pieces, I've been using an "epoxy dome" logo. This one is 3/4" in diameter and is in a shallow counter-bore made with a Forstner bit. Kinda pricey, but they look nice. Here's a link to the supplier: http://www.whitedogpress.com/epoxy.htm

[Randy Meijer]

Can you post a picture of the device that actually applies the mark?

Guess i am a little slow......not quite grasping the significance of the symbol??

Thanks.

[Raymond Overman]

Randy,

It's just a logo, a brand, I'll post pictures of the device later tonight. I guess I failed the test if it doesn't look like a person holding a bowl.

[Ken Salisbury]

Here are a few responses to this subject that I have made in the past:


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=35359#post35359

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=19857&highlight=medallions

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=20394&highlight=medallions


Some samples using a simple fine line magic marker:

http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/misc/maple04.jpg

http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/bowlsale5.jpg

http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/sold2.jpg

Some samples of medallions:


http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/logoZ.gif

http://www.oldrebelworkshop.com/z29.jpg

[Jason Christenson]

Ken,
Where do you get the medallions?

[Mark Cothren]

Neat logo, Raymond. But I also wasn't sure exactly what it was...:o

I realize you just got it and you're testing it and learning it, but the letters sure seem to be hard to read for me. Do you think you'll be able to get a crisper detail?

On one hand I like the brands and medallions that are posted here... but on the other hand I still like the unique, hand-engraved signature.

Regardless of my personal preference, that's a neat addition to your turnings.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Didn't see it before Raymond but do now. Cool deal.

[Raymond Overman]

Mark,

I posted this thread over a year ago. 7/18/05 to be precise. I've learned how to get a crisper burn when I use it since then.

[Mark Cothren]

LOL... man, do I feel like a dork...:D I thought I had seen it before, but didn't take the time to go back and look. :o

[Lloyd Frisbee]

Wood burning logos is tough enough on flat work (see your example) let alone curved objects that are turned. Medallions look very cool but are limited to objects big enough to apply them to. The easiest is permanent ink or using an engraving pencil but I have terrible penmanship with either. What ever works best for you is what you should use. Clear and legible is the minimum daily requirement in this issue.

[Dennis Peacock]

Man....lots of suggestions and ideas. Raymond....that looks really good.

[Keith Outten]

Ken,
Where do you get the medallions?

Jason,

Go to the Laser Engraving and CNC Forum here at SMC and look at the List of engravers. Any one of our Members who own a laser engraver can make custom medalions for you from many different types of materials.

If you already have an engraver that you work with I posted a Corel Draw file with the design I use, you are welcome to use the file.

.

[Lindsay Nelson]

;)

For gallery type pieces it may be best to laser engrave straight onto the work.
These machines are expensive to buy :mad: , but there are a lot of people who have them that don't charge too much for the job. (factor the cost into the piece)

For value adding it's the preferred method..

2 different Blackwood Platters with info lasered into shallow dovetail mount for expansion chuck

[Pete Jordan]

Randy,

It's just a logo, a brand, I'll post pictures of the device later tonight. I guess I failed the test if it doesn't look like a person holding a bowl.

Raymond,

I really like your logo. You might want to add a line to show the body or leave it as it is as a converstion hook for potential clients.

[Frank Kobilsek]

When I started I used a Sharpie to sign things but it smeared and smuged when I put finish on the piece. How do you avoid this with the Sharpie? Now I use a Cub burner with a fairly fine tip. I think its best to stock up. I'll sign 8 or 10 pieces in one sitting. Practice on a waxed piece of scrap. Last name, year and wood.

Does anyone number their work? I've thought about somthing like 44-2006 for the 44th piece carreer to date and completed in 2006. Then keep a log of all pieces. I started this as a carver but found I did not keep up on the log.

Frank

[Travis Stinson]

I like using the Dremel engraver to sign it, date with the year, wood species and number. Having some sort of numbering system makes it much easier to keep track of things.