Economical Straight edge recommendations

[Prashun Patel]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a decent precision straight edge at a value price? I trust Veritas, and will buy their aluminum straight edges if there are no alternatives, but it's hard to resist the Empire products for their price.

I am getting better at jointing my own from wood, but I would like a reliable reference for those times I need to recalibrate.

[Dave Anderson NH]

I bought the Veritas 24" steel straight edge when it first came out. I took it to work and put it on our optical coordinate measuring machine to test the accuracy. I forget what they claim as the runout over the length, but the actual measurement was of mine was +/-.001" over the full length. I keep mine wrapped in the anti-corrosion paper and it lives in its original box in a drawer of my mechanics chest except for when it is being actually used. For me it is strictly a reference tool.

[David Weaver]

I have expensive straight edges as well as one from empire that's not that straight. I would use the method that was described in another thread...jointing two boards to match using your straight edge and then putting them together and checking with a backlight.

You can adjust inexpensive straight edges either by bending on sanding, and make something awfully accurate.

I think the prices of straight edges have gone up considerably since I bought mine, and to be honest, for most panel work, I only use a 2 foot straight edge to get the edges relatively flat and then adjust the edges of the boards to match each other. I use the 2 footer to flatten most boards and get them close, and then check them by seeing if they lay flush on the bench top. If I were starting over, I wouldn't have a 4 foot precision straight edge given that it's usually more trouble to track it down than it is to just use a short edge and then plane the two subject boards until an edge joint is a good fit.

The 2 footer is also a nice thing to have around for making tools.

[Phil Thien]

I purchased a 6' box level. I can't remember the brand but they're fairly precision ground. Lowes had several in stock and so I paired them up and used thin receipt paper to check for gaps along the length and .003" paper wouldn't slip between two units along the entire lengths.

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks Guys. Phil, that's the kind of accuracy I'm looking for. I suppose if my BORG-bought edges don't pass the paper test, I can return them.

[Daniel Rode]

Do we really need accuracy of .001 over 2 feet for woodworking?

For me there are some things that really need to be accurate and others that just need to look or feel right. For example, if a table top looks flat, it is flat.

I'm not saying we do or don't need this, I'm trying to figure out when and why a woodworker might need a highly accurate long straight edge.

[Chris Hachet]

Or keep them for most work and only pull out the Veritas when absolutely necessary to keep it pristine. Most woodworking work in my shop is good if it is to the 32nd or 64th.

[Prashun Patel]

Phil, rethinking your post:

how do you check for slippage? Any pressure on the edges will affect the straightness, right?

[Dave Anderson NH]

Dan, I agree about the questionable need for +/-.001" accuracy for woodworking. Having something that accurate though is useful as a reference tool just as my digital calipers, test gages, 12" x 18" granite surface plate, and other machinists tools allow me to fine tune both my power and hand tools for accuracy. Just as a point of reference, a tight fitting mortise and tenon joint will have the 2 parts accurate to within less then +/-.005" whether you get there by trial and error fitting or by precision machining. Even with completely hand tool work we are working to precision machinists tolerances though how we get there is different.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Prashun,

Here's one I bought from Grizzly http://www.grizzly.com/products/36-Bevel-Edge-Straight-Edge-with-Scale/T21580

The 1st one I got I was able to prove that it didn't meet the advertised specifications. The last 3 inches near one end wasn't straight. I called Grizzly gave them the information. They sent a replacement, no questions asked. When asked, they said I didn't need to return the original. The 2nd one proved exactly what I was able to deduce about the first one.

I kept both, marking the one defective one. They remain in their leather cases until I need to check something critical.

[Curt Putnam]

IMHO, a precision straight edge's function in life is to act a reference. In the same sense that one should have squares that are not used except as a reference with which to check working squares against. Reference tools live in their storage place and see the light of day only to set up a machine or check other tools against.

As far as jointing goes, a match joint solves the problem since any errors of straight or square offset. If you have a # 7 or a # 8, the sole acts as a pretty reliable edge in its own right. One full length shaving on a 2' edge should produce one that is straight. Does not matter if not parallel to the other edge nor must it be perfectly square to the faces. So make yourself a nice, hardwood edge from scrap, mark it and finish it well and then use it for most tasks. Especially good for checking panel flatness.

Anyway, that's what I do - YMWV

[Pinwu Xu]

The plastic drafting triangles, from office supply store, are said to be pretty precise (90-deg, 45-deg, etc.)
Maybe one could check out the office supply for any plastic thing that could be used as straight edge? It sure should be cheaper

[David Weaver]

IMHO, a precision straight edge's function in life is to act a reference. In the same sense that one should have squares that are not used except as a reference with which to check working squares against. Reference tools live in their storage place and see the light of day only to set up a machine or check other tools against.

As far as jointing goes, a match joint solves the problem since any errors of straight or square offset. If you have a # 7 or a # 8, the sole acts as a pretty reliable edge in its own right. One full length shaving on a 2' edge should produce one that is straight. Does not matter if not parallel to the other edge nor must it be perfectly square to the faces. So make yourself a nice, hardwood edge from scrap, mark it and finish it well and then use it for most tasks. Especially good for checking panel flatness.

Anyway, that's what I do - YMWV

This is a good joint to use to create a straight board. If you have two boards close to quartered and match plane the boards being fairly careful to keep the cut square (which you don't have to do with a match joint) and then match the two boards well, they will both have straight edges. If you really want to push yourself, you can flip them around which will ensure they're both straight and square. If you can't see light through the joint, they are straighter than most commercial straight edges.

[Wakahisa Shinta]

Would this (http://www.amazon.com/Woodpeckers-Precision-Woodworking-Tools-SERXL-36/dp/B003S7C4S8/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_3) be considered economical? Not significantly different in price vs. the one posted by Ken.

BTW, useful thread for me as I am looking for the same item to serve as a reference to tune the machines in the shop.

[Daniel Rode]

I don't check my squares against a "reference" square. I check a square against it's self by making a fine knifeline, flipping the square and making another line next to the first. It's as accurate as one can be in wood. Same basic idea for making a wood straight edge for jointing boards, marking lines or winding sticks. I do however, often test boards for flatness on my jointer or tablesaw bed.

As for a match joint, I prefer to try to make the edges square. The reason I plane the edges together is that it's easier to keep a wider edge square. Easier to see at any rate. That they are matched probably does help bit it's not my goal.

How do you check a level? Not with another level. I flip the level over and compare the results. If they match, the level is accurate.


IMHO, a precision straight edge's function in life is to act a reference. In the same sense that one should have squares that are not used except as a reference with which to check working squares against. Reference tools live in their storage place and see the light of day only to set up a machine or check other tools against.

As far as jointing goes, a match joint solves the problem since any errors of straight or square offset. If you have a # 7 or a # 8, the sole acts as a pretty reliable edge in its own right. One full length shaving on a 2' edge should produce one that is straight. Does not matter if not parallel to the other edge nor must it be perfectly square to the faces. So make yourself a nice, hardwood edge from scrap, mark it and finish it well and then use it for most tasks. Especially good for checking panel flatness.

Anyway, that's what I do - YMWV

[Brian Holcombe]

Do we really need accuracy of .001 over 2 feet for woodworking?

For me there are some things that really need to be accurate and others that just need to look or feel right. For example, if a table top looks flat, it is flat.

I'm not saying we do or don't need this, I'm trying to figure out when and why a woodworker might need a highly accurate long straight edge.

Daniel, I build a reference edge or reference edges perpendicular to one another then use those for the remainder of the process when dimensioning lumber at the start of a project.

In the process of building I'm going to create various joinery that all works off of these reference points in conjunction with 90 degree end grain cuts.

Also, so, stuff like sliding dovetails, long through tenons, halving joints and large bridle joints all gain accuracy from starting with precision surfaces.

Yes you you can match plane, but that doesn't do a whole lot for you if you are making two curved edges or if you are not joining the peices together, like making table legs, table edges, skirts, ect.


Does anyone have a recommendation for a decent precision straight edge at a value price? I trust Veritas, and will buy their aluminum straight edges if there are no alternatives, but it's hard to resist the Empire products for their price.

I am getting better at jointing my own from wood, but I would like a reliable reference for those times I need to recalibrate.

I bought 3/8 x 2 x 36 precision ground tool steel beams to use for accurate work, I have three of them and use them all the time. I check them after receiving, one was out .020", so just a heads up that the advertising doesn't always mean precision on arrival.

I also have have an empire 8' beam that I straightened to .003" over 8', but it was out .030" before that.

David's method will produce an incredibly straight edge and will do so for not much more than sweat equity invested in producing it.

[Sean Hughto]

FWIW, I have found the 38" Veritas the most useful and convenient. It stands on it's own, unlike thin "ruler" versions. I use it to prep stock, level panels, flatten tables, etc. I've never wished for more. It's price is very reasonable too. I personally can't see buying some other thing to save $20. YMMV

[Mike Holbrook]

Another thing or two to think about. Those of us who need to place an accurate line on a curved surface may need a flexible plastic ruler to do it, as a regular straight edge is useless. It was interesting to watch Peter Galbert in a class I took recently. Peter's educational background is in art. Peter has an uncanny ability to illustrate things. Part of this ability is an ability to see, judge and feel distances and proportions. Peter frequently hand drew lines at a given distance without measuring. I checked him several times, he was always spot on. It was a little freaky to me and I have an art minor.

Those who have read "By Hand and Eye" or at least have some cognizance of the precepts, might also find accuracy is sometimes less important than proportionality.

[steven c newman]

Been using this one for a long time301921not even sure who made it. Just a common framing square.
301922
Used it to check a sole I was planning flat. Had a bit more to do, according to the square, so
301923
Maybe i got the thing flat

Just go and check out a Framing square, check it to make sure it is straight and true. Plus, you can use it for a lot of other tasks, too......

[Chuck Hart]

Anyway, getting back to the question asked not a debate on precision. You can get great stuff from PEC Tools. Rated "Best Value" by FWW

[glenn bradley]

Anyway, getting back to the question asked not a debate on precision. You can get great stuff from PEC Tools. Rated "Best Value" by FWW

+1 on PEC but, I have the 36" steel Veritas and dad has the 24". Both have been great for reference and for machine setup.

[Darrell LaRue]

I've seen a couple of comments regarding wood movement and precision measurement, and I think that's about where I'm at. Wood moves so much that the 0.001" precision you strove for is lost in a matter of hours.

I have a straight-enough-edge that I use when jointing stock. It's an aluminum bar 1/2 X 2 1/2 X 52 inches. It's not precise, but it works fine for wood. The stuff I make looks great, you'd never tell it might be out by several thousandths of an inch. :D Oh my!

Darrell
wood moves!