Benches made from BORG wood.....PICS/designs, tips, tricks, sock it to me!!!!!

[John McBride]

So I am RE-building a very small shop finally, after divorce, patience, and determination. I am significantly downsizing, and starting from scratch.

I want to build a bench. no rookie to this, I assure you. Several maple and Beech benches laminated and constructed over my career, and another, eventually in my future again.

For now though, I want something that will serve my needs, yet provide me with just a little.....pinache?

For that reason, and since my budget is so thin, I wanted to just see what benches, traditional Scandi, Europian,etc. benches you folks have made using the SYP, Doug Fir, or whatever, that you have been able to source from the local BORG stores.

ANY takers?

[paul cottingham]

I have a good friend who built a very nice Roubo bench from Douglas fir. I am positive you could build a Roubo from Borg lumber. You may need to weigh it down a little, he does.
The top of my bench is jointed 2x6 lumber, and it works fine. Frankly, I don't fuss over it too much. I have never even flattened the top (gasp!) It works great for someone of my extraordinarily modest skills.

[John McBride]

Wonderful,
I am planing to build a bench because I need one, but have neither the funds, nor the need for a replacement to my old Beech bench from a previous life until the new shop building is actually built. For now, I just wanted to hear about build experiences using the BORG sourced materials, and to see what folks had built.

I have been/am running searches here, and have seen some already. Loving what I see.

I don't know, I guess I feel that even if it is BORG lumber, I still want to build something traditional, as well as functional. Something pleasing to the eye, that I won't be as concerned about actually using, and that can eventually be a good spare bench once a replacement can be built for the one I lost in the meelee of divorce.

Anybody else have pics? Words of wisdom? Tips on design or construction?

[Chris Hachet]

I don't know if we are allowed to link in this forum, but at Lumber Jocks, project # 39550 is a split top bench that is currently giving me a lot of inspiration.

Sorry about your divorce, that really is unfortunate.

[Rich Harkrader]

I built the Paul Sellers/English Joiners workbench from SYP that I got from Lowe's. He has a video series about it on YouTube and a blog series as well. You'll have to Google those, since I can never keep whatever the link rules are here straight from week to week.

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[Chris Hachet]

I built the Paul Sellers/English Joiners workbench from SYP that I got from Lowe's. He has a video series about it on YouTube and a blog series as well. You'll have to Google those, since I can never keep whatever the link rules are here straight from week to week.

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I have always liked that video series and that bench. Gald to see that you did such a ncie job building it.

[Tony Shea]

Sorry about the poor pictures but this bench was made with Doug Fir 4x4's from the BORG that I selectively picked up over a period of time. But if I had it to do over again, which I eventually will, I would not use 4 x 4's but would pick out 2x12's and rip them to width and laminate my benchtop using those. The 4 x 4's caused me to get a bit too shallow in thickness than I wanted. But so far this bench has served me really well!

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[John McBride]

That's awesome guys, thanks.....Chris, unfortunate ? Well....yes, I suppose. But ultimately the best move either of us ever made. Zero regrets....thanks for the encouragement and compassion though.

What a great looking bench. I will absolutely look up the YouTube for that.....thanks.

[John McBride]

@tony....that is sweet Tony! I love that bench. That is more or less what I am considering for design of mine. Something rather traditional, mortised trestle base, thick top, et .

[Karl Andersson]

Here's my scandinavian bench, posted a few years ago: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/album.php?albumid=794 . Used BORG Doug fir 4x4s for all of it, had to go to several stores to hand-pick wood with the tightest rings and least knots; as stated above, when I do it again, I'll use ripped 2x12s now that they carry those in DF. The top doesn't flex, but dents pretty easily - I've gotten used to using bench hooks and other props for mortising, beating things, etc. It's a bit lighter than others, but you get used to it and put wieghts on it or strategize how to place things so you're putting any great force along the length, not across it (like ripping thick boards). For most tasks, I don't have to pause at all, just do it. For assembly, it was definitely worth grooving and putting splines in each top board to help alignment and strengthen the joint, based on problems others have reported when doing large glue-ups. I got these all together at once and clamped, no issues at all with the joints ever since.

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Karl

[Richard Hutchings]

What problems did you see with the 4 X 4s? Why do you need a 6" thick bench?


Sorry about the poor pictures but this bench was made with Doug Fir 4x4's from the BORG that I selectively picked up over a period of time. But if I had it to do over again, which I eventually will, I would not use 4 x 4's but would pick out 2x12's and rip them to width and laminate my benchtop using those. The 4 x 4's caused me to get a bit too shallow in thickness than I wanted. But so far this bench has served me really well!

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[John McBride]

Karl, that's beautiful. I am leaning to something very similar. Perhaps sans the shoulder vice.

I have actually been looking at the Acorn bench in Landis's workbench book. That design feels good to me as a potential jumping off spot for a bench made from BORG materials. If for no other reason than to get some practice, live with the bench a bit, and also give me time to figure out tweaks for when I go to build in a hardwood.

[Dave Parkis]

I don't have pics, but my first bench was built out of Doug fir from HD. It was hard enough for me, easy to work with and affordable. IIRC, the 8' 4 X 4 ' s were about $9

[Harold Burrell]

I made this out of BORG stuff. Mostly 2x12's that I ripped to size.


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[Chris Hachet]

I have Doug Fir 4x4 for legs on my bench with zero regrets.

Chris

[Chuck Nickerson]

What problems did you see with the 4 X 4s? Why do you need a 6" thick bench?

The 4x4's are 3-1/2 which means the top probably finishes to 3", maybe 3-1/4".
A ripped 2x12 gives you 5-1/2", which easily finishes to 4-1/2.

When making mine from 2x12's I used the 5-1/2" to work around edge knots, leaving me with good yield and an easy 4" top.

[David Castor]

I'll drop out of lurk mode briefly... I built a basic workbench using kiln-dried Douglas Fir from the local Home Depot. Since I live in Oregon, there is no SYP framing lumber availalble. I used 2x4s for the top - hand planed the faces prior to gluing, then I ripped off the curved edges with a bandsaw. I used a couple of 2 x 6s for each leg. I read a lot of recommendations to buy 2 x 12s and/or 4x4s and rip them down, but our local yards have no kiln-dried framing lumber larger than 2 x 6 - at least that I could find.

I had to sort through A LOT of sticks to find ones that were reasonably straight-grained and free of knots. I made a lot of trips to HD, sometimes getting only two or three 2 x 4s. The fir is soft and dents easily, the workbench seems heavy enough - it doesn't budge when planing. It was good experience - cut my first M & T joints, and got a lot of practice with my hand planes and chisels. But it took a long time. If there's a next time, I'll probably get a lunch box planer to help speed up the prep work a little.

Probably the first step is to see what your local store normally stocks then figure out your options for material.

Sorry about the divorce. But I'm always reminded of the Willie Nelson line: The reason why divorces are so expensive? They're worth it.

Good luck,

Dave

[Karl Andersson]

The shoulder vise does cause you to adjust your work and movements, but since my main bench is only about 18" wide, the extra width of the top and leg spacing for the shoulder vise side do add substantial stability against tipping. It's great for sawing dovetails and ripping. One more thing about the 4x4 top; at about 3 1/4 " thick, I've never had a problem getting Gramercy holdfasts to stick tight or to release when needed.

[John McBride]

Chris,
See, that's what I have been thinking too. While I am sure my OCD nature will require me to build a "proper" bench out of traditional hardwood, my needs right now are basic. That said, I want to build something that is pleasurable to work on as well as be useful, functional even after I move into larger accommodations. The BORG wood bench idea seems to tick those boxes nicely for me. Add to that the reduction in worry regarding any work related dings and dents, and I get even more excited about the prospect.

[Pinwu Xu]

Not mine, http://www.legacycrests.com/bobanddavebench.html

I built one similar, tho.

And a pdf I just found, seems originated from Bob: http://www.picnicpark.org/keith/woodworking/workbench/BobAndDavesGoodFastAndCheapBench-ne.pdf

[Richard Hutchings]

How does that end vise work for holding boards. Seems like it would flare out when you tighten it. Or do you just use it in the way you've shown?

[Judson Green]

How does that end vise work for holding boards. Seems like it would flare out when you tighten it. Or do you just use it in the way you've shown?

My end vise is more or less the same as Harold's. It flaring or torquing is only a problem when using it as a front vise, at least IMO.

Nice bench Harold!

[Judson Green]

Heres mine built most with BORG stuff. 2×4's for the top on edge with maple on the 3 exposed sides. ½" plywood for the cabinet under.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?217095-Yay-my-new-workbench-top-is-done

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[Justin Green]

I built a bench from 1-by SYP that I had left over from a flooring project. I think the boards were 5.5" by 3/4". I glued up 32 or so of them and ended up with a 4" thick top after the ugly glue-up was flattened. Used 4x4 cedar posts for the legs with 2x6 cedar stretchers. It is a remarkably ugly bench, but can take a licking. I will eventually make a better base for it, but as a backup bench it is great. Never had an issue with the cedar legs, though after years of use they might develop. All the lumber I had on hand, so that's what I used.

[Chris Hachet]

I built a bench from 1-by SYP that I had left over from a flooring project. I think the boards were 5.5" by 3/4". I glued up 32 or so of them and ended up with a 4" thick top after the ugly glue-up was flattened. Used 4x4 cedar posts for the legs with 2x6 cedar stretchers. It is a remarkably ugly bench, but can take a licking. I will eventually make a better base for it, but as a backup bench it is great. Never had an issue with the cedar legs, though after years of use they might develop. All the lumber I had on hand, so that's what I used.

I have seen amazing work come off of ugly benches and ugly work come off of amazing benches. Half the fun of building something is building something better at some point in the future IMHO.

[Christian Hawkshaw]

Made of SYP, based on Benchcrafted's Split Roubo, but simple vise configuration.


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[Chris Hachet]

Made of SYP, based on Benchcrafted's Split Roubo, but simple vise configuration.


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Very impressive. I like it!

[Richard Hutchings]

Makes sense. I'm tempted to remove my tail vise and add one like these. Mostly because I did such a @&^y job of installing it and I'm not sure I could do it better if I tried again. I think I should have made the vise part out of maple but I couldn't find a good set of instructions so I winged it. It works though.

[Richard Hutchings]

+1 on that. I will have to stop myself from building a copy of it.:)

[Paul Saffold]

John, look in the " Neanderthal Sticky” (top the neander forum) then go to Wisdom-FAQs. There are numerous benches shown there with a wealth of information and ideas to adapt to your own needs and abilities.
Except for the white oak for the leg chop and strip with the dog holes, mine is made of Douglas fir and SYP. Both from home centers.
Paul

[Kent A Bathurst]

John - you don't say where are located.

In terms of species - there will be some limitations depending on where you are located.

If you are in the west, then DF should be available. SHould not be toohard to find straight-grain / QS sticks in the piles.

In the east - SYP is more dense than the SPF, DF, etc. And, you can sometimes sort through the stacks to get pieces that are more toward QS than flat sawn.

If it were me in the East, I would look into smaller, regional lumber yards that supply contractors, and see who has SYP graded DSS - Dense Select Structural. The name tells it all. Doubt that the true BORG carries this item - but maybe.

[Dennis Ryan]

I'm going through some of the same difficulties as you are, so my sympathies go out to you. I am looking forward to my futureas I hope you are as well, though I know there will be many difficulties. Here is my nearly completed Roubo bench. The top is made of laminated oak and maple I got for free from discarded palettes. The legs are SYP from the Borg.

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[John McBride]

John - you don't say where are located.

In terms of species - there will be some limitations depending on where you are located.

If you are in the west, then DF should be available. SHould not be toohard to find straight-grain / QS sticks in the piles.

In the east - SYP is more dense than the SPF, DF, etc. And, you can sometimes sort through the stacks to get pieces that are more toward QS than flat sawn.

If it were me in the East, I would look into smaller, regional lumber yards that supply contractors, and see who has SYP graded DSS - Dense Select Structural. The name tells it all. Doubt that the true BORG carries this item - but maybe.

Kent,
Sorry, I am in Denver. I was pretty resigned to Doug Fir from the git go, just wanted to oogle the SYP stuff guys back east are making too....CHRISTIAN...That bench is superb!!!! I think I need some "alone time" with the pictures you posted...LOL

[John McBride]

John, look in the " Neanderthal Sticky” (top the neander forum) then go to Wisdom-FAQs. There are numerous benches shown there with a wealth of information and ideas to adapt to your own needs and abilities.
Except for the white oak for the leg chop and strip with the dog holes, mine is made of Douglas fir and SYP. Both from home centers.
Paul

Paul, Thank you, I am going to head over to that stickie right now. Thats awesome......thanks!!!!

[John McBride]

I'm going through some of the same difficulties as you are, so my sympathies go out to you. I am looking forward to my futureas I hope you are as well, though I know there will be many difficulties. Here is my nearly completed Roubo bench. The top is made of laminated oak and maple I got for free from discarded palettes. The legs are SYP from the Borg.

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Denis,
I am sending out positive waves to you any yours!!! I know I am (we are) moving in much, much healthier directions....but enough of that.....what a beautiful bench you have there. Im envious that you were able to do it out of hardwoods.

that said, I am actually looking forward to building a BORG bench. There is just something exciting about being freed up from a bunch of the stress that building from high dollar lumber can cause. Methinks my BORG bench might even benefit from this licence to play. Who knows, It may end up being one of my best pieces....LOL....aint that a bitch????

[Chris Hachet]

Denis,
I am sending out positive waves to you any yours!!! I know I am (we are) moving in much, much healthier directions....but enough of that.....what a beautiful bench you have there. Im envious that you were able to do it out of hardwoods.

that said, I am actually looking forward to building a BORG bench. There is just something exciting about being freed up from a bunch of the stress that building from high dollar lumber can cause. Methinks my BORG bench might even benefit from this licence to play. Who knows, It may end up being one of my best pieces....LOL....aint that a bitch????

I work for a university in the Facilities department. There can be real joy in repairing closet doors and student desks, or doing other simple work where I do not have to worry about ruining high dollar hardwood.

Actually, I have built stuff out of pallets myself....

Dennis bench is indeed beautiful!

[Dennis Ryan]

Denis,
that said, I am actually looking forward to building a BORG bench. There is just something exciting about being freed up from a bunch of the stress that building from high dollar lumber can cause. Methinks my BORG bench might even benefit from this licence to play. Who knows, It may end up being one of my best pieces....LOL....aint that a bitch????

Thanks, I only brought up my non-borg wood source because from your original post I thought you might be looking for inexpensive bench building materials. I hear what your saying about license to play though, there can be a psychological benefit when you take the pressure off to attain perfection. I've made some mock-ups of projects that came out nicer then the projects themselves simply because I didn't care if it was perfect.

[John McBride]

Thanks, I only brought up my non-borg wood source because from your original post I thought you might be looking for inexpensive bench building materials. I hear what your saying about license to play though, there can be a psychological benefit when you take the pressure off to attain perfection. I've made some mock-ups of projects that came out nicer then the projects themselves simply because I didn't care if it was perfect.

Exactly!
Thanks again guys. If there are more pics, tips, design ideas etc. Dedicated to benches from the BORG, I would love to see more. Meanwhile, I am reading in various areas here trying to find more BORG bench info. Any links from you guys are also appreciated.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Kent,
Sorry, I am in Denver. I was pretty resigned to Doug Fir from the git go, just wanted to oogle the SYP stuff guys back east are making too....CHRISTIAN...That bench is superb!!!! I think I need some "alone time" with the pictures you posted...LOL

Nothing wrong with the DF. Good structural properties, generally pretty tight-grained, and very stable for a softwood - not that the seasonal chagnes in humidity amount to doodly-squat out there on the Front Range.. You should be able to dig out near-quartersawn pieces if you rummage through there a bit. At pro yards, you may find some that carry Select Struct grade, if you have a mind to look into that option.

Syp is more dense, but also less stable with seasonal changes in environment.

[Chris Hachet]

You also might look into a lumber yard for SYP. 5th Avenue lumber here in Columbus sells SYP that is far nicer than the BORG stuff, dry, and only slightly more expensive. YMMV.

[Kent A Bathurst]

You also might look into a lumber yard for SYP. 5th Avenue lumber here in Columbus sells SYP that is far nicer than the BORG stuff, dry, and only slightly more expensive. YMMV.

Freight is the primary determining factor on what species are sold in which region of the country. Columbus is not that far a stretch from the SYP basket, but in Denver, the delivered cost of SYP is way, way upside down to DF, etc.

Not that you won't find anomalies from time-to-time, but not on a regular basis.

[Chris Hachet]

Freight is the primary determining factor on what species are sold in which region of the country. Columbus is not that far a stretch from the SYP basket, but in Denver, the delivered cost of SYP is way, way upside down to DF, etc.

Not that you won't find anomalies from time-to-time, but not on a regular basis.


SYP is mostly Georgia, the Carolinian area, and Tennesee, right?

[Kent A Bathurst]

SYP is mostly Georgia, the Carolinian area, and Tennesee, right?


Well - From East Texas all the way across AR, LA, MS, AL. All of GA, a bit of Northern FL. SC, NC, and edging - barely - into southern VA.

Mebbe TN - not sure about that, tho. Yer getting some elevation there, and that's not prime SYP terrain. It is in the lower elevations of the states mentioned.

In the southern part of Georgia, on the 2-lane highways, there are far more trucks loaded with SYP logs and lumber on the road than there are F150's with gun racks and CSA battle flag decals. Remarkable industry here in my state. Huge-huge-huge. You can drive for hours non-stop through limitless pine plantations.

[Greg Berlin]

Yeah I'm in maryland and SYP is hard to come by and most of it is pressure treated. Douglas fir 4x4's work really well for a top. I made my workbench out of "whitewood" laminated for the legs and douglas fir 4x4's laminated for the top. There's some nice straight grain douglas fir if you look around. I beat the hell out of my workbench and it works great. I'll upload a pic later of it. I will mention this, after working on a Roubo that chris schwarz swore by 34" height and hating it, I put mine on 4x4's to make it roughly 37" high and it could stand to be an inch or two higher. I like it much better at the higher height for absolutely everything. So I'm going to build a Paul Seller's version workbench soon for my next workbench and it will be 38-40" tall, no doubts about it. Keep in mind that I have been dimensioning my wood, ripping wood, crosscutting, joinery, dovetailing, etc on the higher bench and no problems with any of the above. Same as always, just less back pain.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Yeah I'm in maryland and SYP is hard to come by and most of it is pressure treated.

North of the US-Canada border, ther eis pretty much nothing but untold miles of Eastern SPF - eastern meaning Canada. They grow it and harvest it like any crop, except there ain't that many crops that grow up there.

The BORG's came up with the "whitewood" label so they can plug in whatever the lumber market says is the cheapest product that meets the specs. Usually, tho, it is E. Canada SPF.

The PT lumber is almost certainly SYP in MD, and going on up into Mass. But - no margins to be gained by shipping untreated that far north, it is cheaper to get the SPF into those markets. But - cannot PT SPF, so no choice on that. The price of PT in the stores reflects the additional freight to get SYP from the wood basket up to that market, where it is treated. Can't affford to ship treated lumber, because the PT process adds weight, which increases freight.

The "untreated SYP" line is farther south of you - Carolinas, I would guess - south of VA, at least. Again - it is delivered cost of the product that makes the call. And that, in turn impacts inventory costs - - - you get farther north, it is shipped by rail, which keeps the freight $$ down. But that means much longer leadtimes, so more risk of stock-outs, so heavier inventories, so higher cost of carrying inventory, blah, blah, blah. In the end, it all comes down to freight.

[steven c newman]

Not sure IF this lumber came from a BORG

Went dumpster diving last year301999
Simple, one afternoon to build
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Legs were ripped from a 2x10. there is a 1 x 6 under them, and a 6 x 6 "pad" under that302001The size fit the small "Dungeon Shop" I happen to work in. One could expand the top as needed.

I think I have this up in Home made tools and jigs. Unless you want the full blog down here....

[Phil Thien]

I used LVL for my base (years before any magazine did so), and a solid-core door for the top.

I painted the LVL, it looks fine.

A big enough LVL at Menards ran about $30 or $40 at the time, I just cut it into legs and feet and stretchers, used dowels for the sides, and bolts/wing-nuts for the stretchers (so I could disassemble it).

[Mike Tekin]

I live in Maryland and its not hard to find untreated SYP- but not at the crappy BORG- you have to find it the old fashoined way and pick up the phone - Reistertown lumber (beautiful select structural 2x12s; some 84 Lumbers, JS Johnson lumber company, etc etc- it took me an hour to find several suppliers- they use them for manufacturing trusses here) and those places will also cut the 16 footers down for you- secondly, the SPF in the big box stores were the same price as the select structural SYP I bought



North of the US-Canada border, ther eis pretty much nothing but untold miles of Eastern SPF - eastern meaning Canada. They grow it and harvest it like any crop, except there ain't that many crops that grow up there.

The BORG's came up with the "whitewood" label so they can plug in whatever the lumber market says is the cheapest product that meets the specs. Usually, tho, it is E. Canada SPF.

The PT lumber is almost certainly SYP in MD, and going on up into Mass. But - no margins to be gained by shipping untreated that far north, it is cheaper to get the SPF into those markets. But - cannot PT SPF, so no choice on that. The price of PT in the stores reflects the additional freight to get SYP from the wood basket up to that market, where it is treated. Can't affford to ship treated lumber, because the PT process adds weight, which increases freight.

The "untreated SYP" line is farther south of you - Carolinas, I would guess - south of VA, at least. Again - it is delivered cost of the product that makes the call. And that, in turn impacts inventory costs - - - you get farther north, it is shipped by rail, which keeps the freight $$ down. But that means much longer leadtimes, so more risk of stock-outs, so heavier inventories, so higher cost of carrying inventory, blah, blah, blah. In the end, it all comes down to freight.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I live in Maryland and its not hard to find untreated SYP........

Mike - way cool. Market prices for commodities are always moving. You have the SYP option, with DSS = SPF in price. That won't necessarily be the case permanently..............but great nonetheless. You are "on the line" in terms of subsitute pricing, which gives you great choices.

And - yes - the SYP DSS is primarily for trusses and rafters, so pro lumber yards that supply those markets are the places to check.


Thanks for the market update.

[Tom Vanzant]

My orange BORG carries "hem/fir" 2x4x96 for $2.97 each. I can usually locate straight-grained knot-free boards with a little digging. I rebuilt my bench base with it...M&T with oak pins. Laminated legs are 3-1/4x2-3/4, other members are 2-3/4 square. Only drawback is the light weight. I also use the hem/fir to build stage furniture for my daughter's HS theater program...latest was four 3'x6' tables, strong enough to safely support a dancer. I was able to keep the weight at 60# each, no problem for the stagehands. Remove the top, two aprons and a stretcher, and each table occupies two SF in storage.

[Roy Lindberry]

So I am RE-building a very small shop finally, after divorce, patience, and determination. I am significantly downsizing, and starting from scratch.

I want to build a bench. no rookie to this, I assure you. Several maple and Beech benches laminated and constructed over my career, and another, eventually in my future again.

For now though, I want something that will serve my needs, yet provide me with just a little.....pinache?

For that reason, and since my budget is so thin, I wanted to just see what benches, traditional Scandi, Europian,etc. benches you folks have made using the SYP, Doug Fir, or whatever, that you have been able to source from the local BORG stores.

ANY takers?

Here is my bench made from Doug Fir and a few pieces of Black Walnut:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?207380-My-Bench-is-Finally-Done&highlight=bench

[Pete Janke]

Here's mine. The top is 25 1/2" by 67." The base is 23 1/2" by 53 1/2." It's made out of Douglas fir 2x4s (top), 2x6s (stretchers) and 4x6s (legs) from Home Depot. It uses mortise and tenon joinery in the base with pegged ends and through bolts holding the stretchers. The top is covered with screwed down cheap laminate flooring and edged in poplar. The laminate is easy to replace and easy to scrape off paint and glues drops. Before attaching the laminate, the top was flattened with a homemade router sled. Rockler work bench casters make it easy to move it around my garage. These pictures are old. It has dog holes now.

[John McBride]

Here is my bench made from Doug Fir and a few pieces of Black Walnut:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?207380-My-Bench-is-Finally-Done&highlight=bench

NOW THATis the kind of sugar I like.....LOVE, LOVE, LOVE the classic benches. I am just struggling with going fully traditional scandi or germanic design, or do some sort of hybrid of the old Acorn bench made popular in the 80's and 90's....decisions , decisions.....

[John McBride]

Here's mine. The top is 25 1/2" by 67." The base is 23 1/2" by 53 1/2." It's made out of Douglas fir 2x4s (top), 2x6s (stretchers) and 4x6s (legs) from Home Depot. It uses mortise and tenon joinery in the base with pegged ends and through bolts holding the stretchers. The top is covered with screwed down cheap laminate flooring and edged in poplar. The laminate is easy to replace and easy to scrape off paint and glues drops. Before attaching the laminate, the top was flattened with a homemade router sled. Rockler work bench casters make it easy to move it around my garage. These pictures are old. It has dog holes now.

Nice Pete,
Great simple lines, and utilitarian design...me likey!!!!

[Jim Matthews]

Made of SYP, based on Benchcrafted's Split Roubo, but simple vise configuration.


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I'm a recent convert to this design.

It's MUCH easier to clamp things, with the space in the middle.
The removable center batten isn't a kludge, it's a useful feature.

[Jim Matthews]

A split top Acorn is basically what I have built.
I dropped in a Veritas inset vise, instead of an end vise.

I'm no fan of benches that have a front vise that sticks out
into the main pathway of a shop.

I'm clumsy, and bump into things like that.
(The reason I disliked my leg vise, mainly.)

[John McBride]

A split top Acorn is basically what I have built.
I dropped in a Veritas inset vise, instead of an end vise.

I'm no fan of benches that have a front vise that sticks out
into the main pathway of a shop.

I'm clumsy, and bump into things like that.
(The reason I disliked my leg vise, mainly.)

Agreed....my old maple bench, the one that the spousal prototype insisted on keeping for spite....lol..., was a Germanic/Scandinavian design sans the dogleg vice. Just a simple face vice was perfect.

I am leaning to the Acorn / hybrid I think. 6' long, 36" deep, 36" high. Laminated 4x4 top and 4x4 legs, trestle style base, mortise and tennon construction, full width tail vice, large front vice (Record maybe?)

[Randy Bonella]

I build my Roubo from reclaimed DF cutoffs from a mill that had been left outside for a while. Probably a bit worse for the wear than what you can get at the BORG. I'd do as others stated get the 2x12 and rip what you need from those. My experience with 4x4 DF wasn't good got lots of twist in most with humidity changes. DF makes a great bench and plenty heavy when all done. My top is about 4.5" thick 22" x 78" and the legs are about 5.25" sq. and it won't budge without a great deal of persuasion. I did let my material acclimatize a while though, about 6 months.
First picture is the 1st of 2 piles of wood I needed and then the finished bench. I have a bench build thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?128346-Mostly-Neander-Work-Bench-Build-(Pic-Heavy)&highlight=) to give you a better idea on what I did.

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[John McBride]

I build my Roubo from reclaimed DF cutoffs from a mill that had been left outside for a while. Probably a bit worse for the wear than what you can get at the BORG. I'd do as others stated get the 2x12 and rip what you need from those. My experience with 4x4 DF wasn't good got lots of twist in most with humidity changes. DF makes a great bench and plenty heavy when all done. My top is about 4.5" thick 22" x 78" and the legs are about 5.25" sq. and it won't budge without a great deal of persuasion. I did let my material acclimatize a while though, about 6 months.
First picture is the 1st of 2 piles of wood I needed and then the finished bench. I have a bench build thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?128346-Mostly-Neander-Work-Bench-Build-(Pic-Heavy)&highlight=) to give you a better idea on what I did.

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Randy, that's a great bench. Initially, I was going to do the 2x12 route for my lamination. However, In Denver, even the BORG lumber is actually pretty dry by the time it hits the stores shelf. True, there ends up being a bunch of twist and movement in a bunch of the 4x4 s. I think I am going to plan to do the 2x12 route in an effort to avoid doing a bunch of work, only to have it tie itself into a knot.....or......maybe I'll just be impatient, and laminate the 4x4 s.....I dunno. Just ready to get moving on the project......love your Roubo....very stout, love the proportions.

[Rob Luter]

Here's my budget friendly design. Most of the materials are recycled or reclaimed Borg stuff.

The base is made from SYP off-cuts from work, originally sourced at a home center. The legs are 4 1/2 x 5 and the stringers are 3 1/2 x 5. The top is made from two maple butcher block benchtops salvaged from a local factory that closed. I laminated them together to form a solid 3 1/2" thick top 27" x 60". I bolted a 3 1/2" hard maple apron all the way around to make for a cleaner look.

The front vise is hard maple with a curly maple cap, 3 1/2" thick x 8" tall x 36" wide, powered by a Veritas twin screw kit with the screws at 24". The end vise is an old Wilton that I mortised into the top behind the apron with a big maple chop attached to the moving jaw. All the maple used for the apron and vice chops came from a tree that was taken down in a neighboring town. The guy had the presence of mind to saw it into boards and sticker it in case it might be useful. Some had nice figure, some was well spalted, and the rest was just nice and clear. All of it was cheap.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2583/4103275307_f30a5080da_b.jpg

[David Turner]

I took a similar route as Rob. My bench is made up of a purchased laminated maple top 24" wide x 72" long x 1 3/4" thick. To that I added a 4" thick x 4" wide front face for the tail vise and the front vise and included bench dog slots/holes. On the ends and the back I added a 3/4" x 4" strip to make it appear it is 4" thick all around. The legs are of oak reclaimed from pallets. It is approaching 30 years old and is still flat.

David Turner
Plymouth, MI.

[Chris Hachet]

Here's my budget friendly design. Most of the materials are recycled or reclaimed Borg stuff.

The base is made from SYP off-cuts from work, originally sourced at a home center. The legs are 4 1/2 x 5 and the stringers are 3 1/2 x 5. The top is made from two maple butcher block benchtops salvaged from a local factory that closed. I laminated them together to form a solid 3 1/2" thick top 27" x 60". I bolted a 3 1/2" hard maple apron all the way around to make for a cleaner look.

The front vise is hard maple with a curly maple cap, 3 1/2" thick x 8" tall x 36" wide, powered by a Veritas twin screw kit with the screws at 24". The end vise is an old Wilton that I mortised into the top behind the apron with a big maple chop attached to the moving jaw. All the maple used for the apron and vice chops came from a tree that was taken down in a neighboring town. The guy had the presence of mind to saw it into boards and sticker it in case it might be useful. Some had nice figure, some was well spalted, and the rest was just nice and clear. All of it was cheap.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2583/4103275307_f30a5080da_b.jpg

Nice simple bench. how do you like the twin screw front vise?

[John McBride]

Here's my budget friendly design. Most of the materials are recycled or reclaimed Borg stuff.

The base is made from SYP off-cuts from work, originally sourced at a home center. The legs are 4 1/2 x 5 and the stringers are 3 1/2 x 5. The top is made from two maple butcher block benchtops salvaged from a local factory that closed. I laminated them together to form a solid 3 1/2" thick top 27" x 60". I bolted a 3 1/2" hard maple apron all the way around to make for a cleaner look.

The front vise is hard maple with a curly maple cap, 3 1/2" thick x 8" tall x 36" wide, powered by a Veritas twin screw kit with the screws at 24". The end vise is an old Wilton that I mortised into the top behind the apron with a big maple chop attached to the moving jaw. All the maple used for the apron and vice chops came from a tree that was taken down in a neighboring town. The guy had the presence of mind to saw it into boards and sticker it in case it might be useful. Some had nice figure, some was well spalted, and the rest was just nice and clear. All of it was cheap.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2583/4103275307_f30a5080da_b.jpg

Rob,
Awesome use of materials. I actually saw this bench on a couple of other threads I think. I love the use of reclaimed lumber. I have been watching Craigslist for either a reclaimed bowling alley, or the like for a nice maple slab. When they do pop up, the seller usually wants a mint for the slab. I'm talking at or above going bf rate for the lumber. It kind of let's the wind out of my sails when I see what I hope is a deal, turn into something as expensive as just getting the lumber and laminating it myself.....lol

That is one of the reasons I'm kind of hot to use BORG lumber for this bench. I really want to build a quality, traditional bench, but it is going to get USED, so the ability and freedom to use and abuse it with out guilt is a nice feature.

Eventually, once the permenant shop is built, I will build a "real" bench. Probably out of maple or beech. But for now, I lime the reclaimed/BORG/recycled lumber route.

[Randy Bonella]

John, thanks for the kind comments. We're pretty close to the DF source here so it tends to be pretty wet. That being said we also have some pretty good material. Not sure of your selection locally but it might be worth looking at some 4x6 or 4x8 if they are available. I know locally they tend to be better cuts of wood than the 4x4s. Enjoy and look forward to seeing your pictures :)
Randy...

[Mike Siemsen]

I have built many Nicholson style benches from borg materials.I posted a video on viseless workhold on one at youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvhn-PAfEW4
This particular bench is made to knock down and fit in the back of my Honda Civic. The bench in the background of the video does not knock down and is 8 feet long. They cost around $100 to $120 for materials in my area of Minnesota. I demonstrate building the bench on a video at Lost Art Press http://lostartpress.com/collections/dvds/products/the-naked-woodworker
The bench in the Naked Woodworker Video took less than a day to make.

[John McBride]

I have built many Nicholson style benches from borg materials.I posted a video on viseless workhold on one at youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvhn-PAfEW4
This particular bench is made to knock down and fit in the back of my Honda Civic. The bench in the background of the video does not knock down and is 8 feet long. They cost around $100 to $120 for materials in my area of Minnesota. I demonstrate building the bench on a video at Lost Art Press http://lostartpress.com/collections/dvds/products/the-naked-woodworker
The bench in the Naked Woodworker Video took less than a day to make.
Mike, heading to view your bids now.....god I love the internet......MORE BENCH PORN!!!!!

[Charles Bjorgen]

I watched Mike's video yesterday and it's a really good outline on many ways to hold work without using a vise. Viewing recommended.

[Paul Saffold]

Excellent video, Mike. Lots of great ideas for cheap work holding. Your video sponsor, Novisatol, is now available here in West Virginia, too.

[joseph quijas]

First time poster here, Long time lurker.
I built the bench in the photo exclusively from Doug Fir. the beams on top are 6x12's and those are 4x4 post as the legs. I fortunately got the material from work (I am a finish carpenter here in the bay area) and the most expensive part of the whole bench was the pattern makers vise. I think the only part that I paid for was the 3/4" pegs purchased from a local hardwood store.
The bench took about two days to build, but I have been doing slight modifications ever since.
To flatten the top I took an electric planer to it and then finished up with a hand plane.
I have been a long time luster of all the benches that I have seen on here, but in my own case, I could not justify the cost nor the labor to build a hardwood bench. The great thing about the bench is that I dont worry about it to much; its gotten paint on it, I set up my tormek on it sometimes, it is a real general purpose bench that I use constantly and dont worry about. If you look closely at the photos, there are even screws driven into the sides of the top (my four year old) and sharpie marks everywhere else (my two year old).
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[Chris Hachet]

First time poster here, Long time lurker.
I built the bench in the photo exclusively from Doug Fir. the beams on top are 6x12's and those are 4x4 post as the legs. I fortunately got the material from work (I am a finish carpenter here in the bay area) and the most expensive part of the whole bench was the pattern makers vise. I think the only part that I paid for was the 3/4" pegs purchased from a local hardwood store.
The bench took about two days to build, but I have been doing slight modifications ever since.
To flatten the top I took an electric planer to it and then finished up with a hand plane.
I have been a long time luster of all the benches that I have seen on here, but in my own case, I could not justify the cost nor the labor to build a hardwood bench. The great thing about the bench is that I dont worry about it to much; its gotten paint on it, I set up my tormek on it sometimes, it is a real general purpose bench that I use constantly and dont worry about. If you look closely at the photos, there are even screws driven into the sides of the top (my four year old) and sharpie marks everywhere else (my two year old).
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Your workshop with its sawdust and well used look makes me feel much better about mine. In the end, it's all about work holding and something you can use. Your bench is definitely well loved.

[John McBride]

First time poster here, Long time lurker.
I built the bench in the photo exclusively from Doug Fir. the beams on top are 6x12's and those are 4x4 post as the legs. I fortunately got the material from work (I am a finish carpenter here in the bay area) and the most expensive part of the whole bench was the pattern makers vise. I think the only part that I paid for was the 3/4" pegs purchased from a local hardwood store.
The bench took about two days to build, but I have been doing slight modifications ever since.
To flatten the top I took an electric planer to it and then finished up with a hand plane.
I have been a long time luster of all the benches that I have seen on here, but in my own case, I could not justify the cost nor the labor to build a hardwood bench. The great thing about the bench is that I dont worry about it to much; its gotten paint on it, I set up my tormek on it sometimes, it is a real general purpose bench that I use constantly and dont worry about. If you look closely at the photos, there are even screws driven into the sides of the top (my four year old) and sharpie marks everywhere else (my two year old).
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AWESOME Joe,
See, this is what I am talking about. I absolutely love the idea that I can spent very, very little money, buy quality materials, (even not so quality materials) build an asthetically pleasing, functional workbench that will last, and last, and do it with out the hastle and worry of the stressor that would come with spending $500 or much more an a "real" hardwood bench.

Add to that, the actual construction becomes much more fun, hypothetically, when you remove the self induced pressures of expensive hardwood. PLUS I can use the damn thing like it was ment to be used. Not concern myself with avoiding any scratch or ding. Love it, Love it, Love it!!!

[joseph quijas]

You could probably find leftovers at a construction site and get them for free or offer about half the price of what you would normally pay. I've often seen lots of material similar to above end up in the trash; construction sites are notorious for waste. I would give craigslist a try and maybe look at some laminated beams also.
One reason I am glad that I did the bench in doug fir was that due to the time constraints (I had a house of 6 international relatives with me at the time) I miscut the top slots to receive the post. The most obvious spot on the whole darn table and I messed it up. Oh well, i just took some wedges and wedged around the tenenons to tighten it up. Only had an Italian Carpenter who was visiting my neighbour point out to me what I had done.
The one thing that I was happy about was I have no glue or nails on the bench; its all draw bored with pegs.
the one item that I would do over again if I had to, was I probably would have bought the slabs for the top instead of salvaging them off of a site (i think about 200.00 here is what you would pay ). The reason is the beams were well twisted by the time I got them (probably sat out in the sun/rain for a year before I got them and brought them into the house). At first when I got them, I let the beams just dry out on a pair of sawhorses for about two years before I finally got to work on them. They are still moving/drying out.

Not sure why I have never seen anyone doing bench's with doug fir; its structural material and looks okay. Most of the houses in the west are now probably framed with the stuff.
My favourite part of this bench is that it is strong; really strong. I have the bottom loaded up with festool tools and the top often has a chop saw on one side and on the other planes, materials and tools etc.
One soon addition is that I want to add some small tool holders/boxes for the space in between the two slabs. They will be removable so that I can empty sawdust ocassionally.
The total length of the table is a little over 8'. I chose this length as I often work on peices somewhere around 8'; cabinet frames, trim pieces, fireplace mantle parts and recently had a heavy and very solid 4"x20"x110" walnut slab that ended up being a fireplace mantle. The bench holds it all.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

What is BORG wood? Is this a term for big box hardware store off-the-shelf stuff? I am still on the hunt for some good wood for a Ruobo. I don't have enough fir from the two sailboat masts I salvaged, or I would gladly use that. I may just ship some maple down and be done. I had hoped for a bonus this quarter- didn't happen.

[Chris Hachet]

What is BORG wood? Is this a term for big box hardware store off-the-shelf stuff? I am still on the hunt for some good wood for a Ruobo. I don't have enough fir from the two sailboat masts I salvaged, or I would gladly use that. I may just ship some maple down and be done. I had hoped for a bonus this quarter- didn't happen.

I think it stands for Big Orange Box (Home Depot) or something....means mostly inexpensive off of the shelf building materials.

[Brian Holcombe]

What is BORG wood? Is this a term for big box hardware store off-the-shelf stuff? I am still on the hunt for some good wood for a Ruobo. I don't have enough fir from the two sailboat masts I salvaged, or I would gladly use that. I may just ship some maple down and be done. I had hoped for a bonus this quarter- didn't happen.

It's short for Big Orange Retail Giant.

If I did mine again it would be white ash and not maple, ash is about 1/2 the price of maple here and it is a nicer wood to work by hand in my opinion. But ash, oak, beech, maple, Purple Heart....all good!

I'd just avoid stuff that moves a lot.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Ha! Never heard of BORG. My BORG has the worst wood ever. It literally has knotts so big that the board breaks in half when you pick it up. I am amazed that they can sell this stuff. As for the "furniture grade" woods, they only stock the red oak and poplar. I'm sure that logistics is an issue for them, but I would love if they would stock more high-end wood. Heck, even if they just had clear-grained fir, I'd be ecstatic.

I used to be able to get purple heart locally, but not so much any more. I can get mahogany, but it is too dark for a bench. My supplier just got some cumaru decking, which is a S. American wood very much like teak. It is also a bit dark, but not as dark as mahogany. I was thinking about trying to bleach some and see how light it gets. Ultimately, it is not terribly expensive to ship here, but the issue is that the wood has to be fumigated prior to shipping. That can be a problem, but the really good retailers know about this and can get it fumigated for you.

[Daniel Rode]

The local BORG here stocks a premium selection of some type of fir. I'm not sure what it is but it's actually pretty nice stuff. Straight clear, even grained. *Seems* to not have much tension. However I never buy any. First off, it's really expensive. I can get cherry cheaper and poplar for half as much. Secondly, it comes pre-milled at 3/4". By the time I flatten it and remove the marks from being thrown around, I'm lucky to get 1/2" or 5/8". The oak and poplar have similar issues. It's often nice but expensive and I hate pre-milled stock.

I can take a drive out to a local Amish kiln and get better wood for less money. It's all skip planed and I can get 4/4, 5/4, 6/4 8/4, etc. I'll take a kiln or sawmill any day.


Ha! Never heard of BORG. My BORG has the worst wood ever. It literally has knotts so big that the board breaks in half when you pick it up. I am amazed that they can sell this stuff. As for the "furniture grade" woods, they only stock the red oak and poplar. I'm sure that logistics is an issue for them, but I would love if they would stock more high-end wood. Heck, even if they just had clear-grained fir, I'd be ecstatic.

I used to be able to get purple heart locally, but not so much any more. I can get mahogany, but it is too dark for a bench. My supplier just got some cumaru decking, which is a S. American wood very much like teak. It is also a bit dark, but not as dark as mahogany. I was thinking about trying to bleach some and see how light it gets. Ultimately, it is not terribly expensive to ship here, but the issue is that the wood has to be fumigated prior to shipping. That can be a problem, but the really good retailers know about this and can get it fumigated for you.

[Judson Green]

My BORG has "select" grades too but just way to expensive. Once I spied a Qsawn red oak board but even though the BORG doesn't price it any differently than its other red oak board it was still to expensive.

Something else to remember, that lumber has been sanded - the silica embedded in it will dull your tools.