Teaching a power tool safety course

[Mark Rakestraw]

A broad subject I'd like some help with. I will be co-teaching a power tool safety course for our local woodworking club and would like to tap into the Creek's collective wisdom to make sure we cover the most important aspects of each tool. We will focus mostly on stationary machines, but may include handheld routers as well. We hope to cover the safe use of table saws, jointers, planers, bandsaws, drillpress, chopsaws, router tables, and dust collection. It is a one day class with 6 hours total of instruction time. The format will be mostly demonstration, though we might have some of the "students" use each tool as well so we can comment on their technique. What I'd like from the creek is a brainstorming of sorts where people chime in with what they feel are the most important "do's and don'ts" for each machine. Some of this will necessarily include aspects of machine set up but obviously we won't be able to cover everything for each machine. Therefore in addition to a list of the most important things for us to cover in our session we would like to put together a bibliography of the best machine specific set-up and use guides. The class is supposed to serve as an introduction for novices and refresher/reminder of safe practices for the more experienced. I know I welcome the chance to focus on safe work practice for myself and think there are many at the Creek who would also.

In order to keep things focused I think a separate thread for each machine asking for input would be best. (i.e. "Tablesaw Safety: do's, don'ts, and your favorite guides"). Before starting that many new threads I'd like input from the moderators. Does this seem appropriate for the forum? and, if so, is my proposed separate thread for each machine a good approach or do you have other suggestions?

If the threads are successfull I could edit them into an article for the Creek.
Mark

[Mike Null]

Mark

I suggest you consider including a section on materials. Punk, warped, wet, bowed, checked, too large, too small or otherwise irregular materials can be dangerous to use with power tools. After a couple of close calls I decided that it was much wiser to scrap materials which carried too much risk. In my case I was most concerned about working with the tablesaw as binding, kickback and flying objects are all risks of using this tool.

Using safety devices such as guards, jigs, pushers etc is important. Wearing protective devices such as safety glasses, face shields, dust masks gloves for certain jobs is equally important.

Posture and where to stand, work table height, clean floors, safe electrical connections, adequate lighting and dust collection are all considerations that bear mentioning.

[Jeff Duncan]

Just my opinion so take it for what little it's worth…..

I wouldn't try to get too detailed about every nuance of all that equipment. Trying to cram in that much information in a single day will likely mean much of it is not retained. Instead I would focus hard on the very basics of each machine. In reality an experienced woodworker could spend a day or more trying to cover all the techniques used just on the table saw. I'd focus on keeping it simple and easy to understand and more importantly remember. I understand the well intentioned idea of single day of education, I'm just not sure if it's a bit of overload for a lot of guys.

As an aside….when I bring a new guy into the shop I train them over weeks and months. I have to be comfortable with their ability to grasp use the equipment safely. I try hard not to overwhelm them with too much knowledge at any one time. Little bites makes it much easier to digest;)

good luck,
JeffD

[John Hollander]

Just my opinion so take it for what little it's worth…..

I wouldn't try to get too detailed about every nuance of all that equipment. Trying to cram in that much information in a single day will likely mean much of it is not retained. Instead I would focus hard on the very basics of each machine. In reality an experienced woodworker could spend a day or more trying to cover all the techniques used just on the table saw. I'd focus on keeping it simple and easy to understand and more importantly remember. I understand the well intentioned idea of single day of education, I'm just not sure if it's a bit of overload for a lot of guys.

As an aside….when I bring a new guy into the shop I train them over weeks and months. I have to be comfortable with their ability to grasp use the equipment safely. I try hard not to overwhelm them with too much knowledge at any one time. Little bites makes it much easier to digest;)

good luck,
JeffD

+1
When I took my college woodworking class our first lab session consisted of a walk around the shop, talking about all the different tools, their operation and safety. Come the next lab session most students didn't remember 99% of what they were shown. It was too much information at one time. For me to really grasp the use and safety of a new tool I need to go over them individually and get hands on time with them.

[Ellen Benkin]

I would emphasize general rules like:

Wear comfortable non slip closed toed shoes
Don't wear dangly jewelry, clothing, or hair
Keep you fingers away from moving blades - this includes table saws, band saws, jointers, routers, etc. A good reason for push sticks at every station
Don't interrupt or surprise anyone using a power tool
Always THINK before starting any power tool -- think about safety and technique before you turn it on

I'm sure there are more but that's what jumps into my mind.

[Pat Barry]

Like Norm used to say "be sure to read understand and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tool". Also, that the only safe power tool is one that isn't plugged in.

[Roger Nair]

I would try at first to get all the students to get a grasp on force and reaction as the prime concept of how the workpiece, waste, tool and operator are put in motion as a method of understanding how things go wrong rather than listing machine by machine procedures as the beginning. When presenting concerns of individual machines I would present the does and don'ts in the context of force and reaction so the initial lesson is being continually reinforced.

[Chris Padilla]

Like Norm used to say "be sure to read understand and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tool". Also, that the only safe power tool is one that isn't plugged in.

There are plenty of (power? ;) ) tools that are dangerous whether they have tails or not. :)

[Chris Padilla]

Mark,

A healthy fear of sharp tools is a good thing to embed into minds. I fear my TS blade spinning at 3450 rpm with sharp teeth that don't care if they meet wood or bone...they will mindlessly do their job. You have a mind...use it in large doses! Most of my mistakes and accidents happen when I'm tired or rushing. Tired AND rushing is a death sentence!

Solid wood moves and it can move when cutting. That should be firmly embedded as well. It is hard to teach, however. I never cut large chunks of hardwood on my table saw...I go to the bandsaw for that. That fear thing sets in when I need to rip a 2-3" chunk of hard maple right down the middle...even with a splitter or riving knife, my Spidey-senses tingle. Tell them that chunk of hardwood (thunk it on the table top) can turn into a missile launched at your head in less than a second and at the same time pull your fingers into the teeth of that mindless blade.

[Andrew Hughes]

Here's a easy one to remember.Always take the chuck key out of the drill press before Turing it on.
Thats the only one I reemember from shop class.Aj

[Doug Ladendorf]

I would suggest including a sander (disk, belt, edge) in your course. It's too easy to think a sander isn't as dangerous until something happens and it gets ugly. Demands the same respect even though it isn't "sharp."

Sounds like a great ww club event.

[John Coloccia]

The most important part to any classroom situation is starting off on the right foot with your students. Welcome them to the class, introduce yourself, and then let them know you've been teaching the class for 5 years. To complete the effect, hold up your thumb, index finger and pinky on one hand, and your index finger and pinky on the other.

Ok, seriously....

If there's any one rule that applies to nearly every tool it would be to never push with any appendage in line with the blade. The idea of imagining where your hands end up if the work piece suddenly disappeared is a good one. Sometimes, that happens, actually, when something splinters and comes apart, or, especially on the bandsaw where feed pressure could be significant, you hit a soft spot in the wood or when you're curve cutting and you suddenly go from ripping to a cross cut. It could also save you if you should loose your balance for some reason, and that DOES happen. Goes for hand tools too. I've been to the emergency room for stitches several times due to shop injuries, and every times has been from slicing myself open with a sharp chisel or knife because I didn't follow this stupid rule.

[Roger Feeley]

The local woodworkers guild offers a table saw class in which they do some demonstrations using foam insulation. They have students create kickbacks. They have students crosscut using the rip fence. Basically they do everything wrong. By the end of the class, there are chunks of foam all over the place. Seems like a good idea to me.

[Earl McLain]

Here's a easy one to remember.Always take the chuck key out of the drill press before Turing it on.
Thats the only one I reemember from shop class.Aj

The first 50 or 100 times i read that, it sounded like too obvious a thing for anybody to do. Thankfully, mine flew past at eye-level and missed my ear. Only happened once--that was enough!!
earl

[Earl McLain]

I would suggest including a sander (disk, belt, edge) in your course. It's too easy to think a sander isn't as dangerous until something happens and it gets ugly. Demands the same respect even though it isn't "sharp."

Sounds like a great ww club event.

Only woodworking related ER visit for me was when a 6" x 48" belt sander took a piece of freshly cut cherry out of my hand. Took 6 stitches to close the cut left by the wood--like a razor cut!!
earl

[John Goodin]

It might be wise to mention that there are millions of shop scenarios that can result in a trip to the ER and that your tips are by no means comprehensive. In essence, not all accidents are human error. Issues with the tool or material can occur. Expect the unexpected.

Quite frankly I like having a phone in the shop. After falling backwards off a two story house I was able to call 911 with my cell phone. If I didn't have it I could have laid in that ladies yard all afternoon before anyone found me. I landed hands first and after my wrists gave out my face was able to break the fall. Luckily no permanent damage and now my wife never asks me to hang Christmas lights.

[Paul Grodziak]

Mark,
I used to teach the Introduction to Safety class for all of the new members at a members woodshop in Philadelphia. The class covered safe use of the jointer, planer, compound sliding miter saw, drill press, bandsaw, and router table. The class was only 6 hours and it was always a struggle to make it to the end with covering all of the safe operation and allowing each member to practice safe operation with a scrap piece of wood. We originally tried including the tablesaw, router, mortiser, and several other machines, but it quickly became overwhelming for the students and they retained virtually no information from the class. The big thing I learned from the sessions, was to keep it simple, highlight the major 1 or 2 safety issues, and briefly discuss how to safely process material with each machine. Write out a plan on paper with time goals for each step. Have someone with a watch in the background keeping track of time. I think it's very easy for us to get off tangent and having that person in the background keeping you in check is very beneficial.

And finally, use your war stories sparingly. We all have them, and references to three-finger charlie are sure to bring a chuckle, but by bringing up those stories, you focus on one single instance of negative behavior. I've found this detracts from the broader goal of highlighting the key 'good' safety concepts and proper operation.

Hope this helps and good luck with the presentation.
-Paul

[Chuck Saunders]

Our Guild (Kansas City Woodworkers' Guild) has a Safety Orientation for all members wanting to use the facilities. We focus on a safe working environment, and the particulars for each of the stationary tools, there is also a test over our safety sheets for each machine. This class is for exposure not proficiency. We do have a half day Rough to Ready class that takes the student from rough lumber 4x4 to finished box 1 or 2 students in a class. We also have a 15 week (1 night a week) Intro to Machine Woodworking class that follows the more traditional woodshop class.

Students should never fear a machine, that will cause them to perform operations with hesitation. They need to have a respect for the tool and know what can result from their lack of attention.
Chuck

[Lee Schierer]

I would emphasize that you never ever, lower a piece of wood onto a moving blade on a table saw. If you need to make a plunge cut on a TS, raise the blade to the height needed. Clamp a backer block behind your piece to be cut, then lower the blade below the table top counting how many turns of the raise/lower crank it takes to get the blade below the table surface. Then place your work on the saw, start the saw and slowly raise the blade back up the same number of turns. Push the piece through the cut, then turn off the saw and let it come to a complete stop before attempting to remove the work piece.

Never try to flick away small pieces of scrap from near the blade, even with a guard in place.

Never use a cross cut guide and a fence at the same time.

When cutting sheet goods, never cross cut a piece with the narrow dimension against the fence.

Never free hand cut on a TS.

Use a ripping blade for rip cuts and a cross cutting blade for cross cuts.

Never cut with a damaged blade.

Never work with power tools when tired or frustrated. If you mess up a piece of work late in the day. Turn off the equipment and the lights and go do something else outside of the shop.

If a cut set up makes you nervous, find another way to make the cut.

[Mark Rakestraw]

Lot's of good advice here, thanks to all that responded.
Mark