Miter Saw: Bevel by bevel or miter?

[Susumu Mori]

Hi all,

After years of woodworking, I bought a miter saw for the first time and I'm learning how to use it now.
One question I got, and couldn't fine an answer in the internet is, when I want a bevel cut of, say, a 3-inch-wide board, of course, I can bevel the saw. One thing I don't like about using the bevel is that it will ruin the zero-clearance plate I made for the regular 90-degree cuts. Alternative method is, to place the board against the fence and use the miter. If the board is not too wide, I guess we can easily get a bevel in this way, although the face of the board is exposed without support and the cut quality may suffer. I read somewhere that bevel cuts, especially for a sliding miter saw, could be inaccurate because the wood tends to move during the sliding bevel action.

Anyhow, I would appreciate your opinions, advises, suggestions, anything about it.

Thanks,

[johnny means]

I almost never bevel on my CMS. Like you mentioned, with out some serious clamping, the boards tend to move and the blade trends to deflect. My table saw is my tool of choice for most bevel cuts, fact I exchanged the knob for a nut long ago and never missed the option. On the other hand, I question the actual advantage of a nice fresh ZCI on a miter saw. I never seemed to have a problem with chip out on the bottom of the cut.

[Chris Padilla]

I have a DeWalt 12" CMS and I rarely use the bevel adjustment. Instead, I picked up some crown molding stops that fits nicely into a couple of holes on the saw's top and so I can avoid having to bevel the saw. As far as a ZCI goes, yeah, it'll be widened a bit with a bevel cut. Sometimes putting a smaller top on the saw's top can by you some room and perhaps you can avoid cutting all the way down to the ZCI.

[Tom M King]

I remember tilting the blade on mine once, but it was so long ago, I don't remember what it was for.

I also use the crown stops. Dewalt makes some that work easily, and perfectly, with their saw.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Miter-Saw-Crown-Stops-DW7084/202516701

[Mike Henderson]

I cut miters (with the wood standing up) on my miter saw and find it very accurate. But the pieces are not that wide. To get accuracy, I usually use a sacrificial piece against the fence and then clamp the wood to the fence. The sacrificial piece helps with tear out at the back of the cut.

The sacrificial piece is only used with that cut - or sequence of cuts. Next time I need to do a miter, I use a new sacrificial piece.

Mike

[Susumu Mori]

Thanks all.

I managed to fine a couple of articles discussed this topic in Fine Woodworking.
Basically, both recommended the Mike's way; Use miter and a fence if possible. Of course, if the board is too long, there is no choice; We have to use the bevel. Both pointed out that miter is more accurate and safer. I also thought the steep bevel angles, like 45 degree, is quite awkward.

[Larry Edgerton]

I almost never bevel on my CMS. Like you mentioned, with out some serious clamping, the boards tend to move and the blade trends to deflect. My table saw is my tool of choice for most bevel cuts, fact I exchanged the knob for a nut long ago and never missed the option. On the other hand, I question the actual advantage of a nice fresh ZCI on a miter saw. I never seemed to have a problem with chip out on the bottom of the cut.

I put stick-it sandpaper on my slider tables, makes life easier. The plates on most sliders are low and I build that up with tapes layers, so if I am running with sandpaper on the deck I add a couple of more layers at the plate. When the plate slot gets widened I pull off the tape and make a new disposable zero clearance insert. Makes sliders a little more useful.

I prefer a straight chop, old delta cast iron saws with the jackshaft for miters, but would like to get an OMGA in the shop. If I was thinking that much money I would go the extra for an OMGA. I don't use sliders any more than I have to.

Larry