Prashun Patel
12-02-2014, 2:23 PM
I don't have great pictures here, but I wanted to share my experience with Mirka Abralon foam backed fine abrasives. These are polishing pads that come in grits between 300 and 4000. They're designed to be used wet and with or without a random orbital sander.
This walnut table is finished with a few coats of Waterlox Original Sealer finish. The first couple coats are flooded on, then wiped off after being left to soak in for a couple minutes. The subsequent coats are rubbed on very thin, and then distributed/mostly removed with a clean shop towel. This results in a super thin build.
After two days drying, I used the 6" Abralon pads, starting at 1000 and finishing with 4000. I sprayed water on the surface, and then lightly sanded at a medium speed. The pads (with the lubricant) are soft and gentle enough that they do not cut through the surface. Between each sanding, I wiped the surface clean.
After 4000, I let the surface dry overnight. The next day I buffed the surface with a clean shop towel, and polished on two more very thin coats of Waterlox. This eliminated the dull whitish residual haze, and left a surface that feels as good as any rubbed out surface I've felt.
Anyway, these pads made quick work of the process, conform to minor surface imperfections, and are relatively cheap. So, thought I'd pass on the secret. It's not a formal, grain-filled look, but it's an easy way to a good looking and great-feeling surface.
I've done this process with Watco Teak oil and Arm R Seal as well. It works with any varnish and doesn't require the surface to be cured, just well dried. By 'pre-rubbing' out the surface this way, the sheen is determined by the final two coats of finish - not the abrasive.
Try it for yourself.
This walnut table is finished with a few coats of Waterlox Original Sealer finish. The first couple coats are flooded on, then wiped off after being left to soak in for a couple minutes. The subsequent coats are rubbed on very thin, and then distributed/mostly removed with a clean shop towel. This results in a super thin build.
After two days drying, I used the 6" Abralon pads, starting at 1000 and finishing with 4000. I sprayed water on the surface, and then lightly sanded at a medium speed. The pads (with the lubricant) are soft and gentle enough that they do not cut through the surface. Between each sanding, I wiped the surface clean.
After 4000, I let the surface dry overnight. The next day I buffed the surface with a clean shop towel, and polished on two more very thin coats of Waterlox. This eliminated the dull whitish residual haze, and left a surface that feels as good as any rubbed out surface I've felt.
Anyway, these pads made quick work of the process, conform to minor surface imperfections, and are relatively cheap. So, thought I'd pass on the secret. It's not a formal, grain-filled look, but it's an easy way to a good looking and great-feeling surface.
I've done this process with Watco Teak oil and Arm R Seal as well. It works with any varnish and doesn't require the surface to be cured, just well dried. By 'pre-rubbing' out the surface this way, the sheen is determined by the final two coats of finish - not the abrasive.
Try it for yourself.