#112 Scaper set up?

[David Ragan]

I have never really used my #112 scraper plane. This am, I am in the mood.

The blade is @45. How do you all determine the set of the blade in the plane? Do you all put a bur on it?

Right now, everything is factory. I would guess that going more against/unruly grain, the higher the blade angle needs to be?

Thanks David

[David Weaver]

Hone a bevel on the blade and then roll a burr on the bevel. 45 degrees is fine for the bevel, but anything that's not ridiculously thin will work.

David Charlesworth illustrated the most reliable method I've ever seen for getting a good smooth burr on a scraper plane iron.

[Jim Belair]

LN have some instructions on their website for their copy of the #112.

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/scraping-planes/large-scraping-plane?node=4075

[David Ragan]

Seems like for now, the scraper is going well. I have the L/N model, read their website stuff, and Charlesworth's book about it.

Not gutsy enough to put a burr on it right now.

So, it is a personal preference whether to sand after a beautiful scraper job? Just apply some mineral spirits and see about surface irregularities?

I mean, if the surface is smooth, why create tiny particles and push them into the pores, right? Cherry.

[David Weaver]

Light final scraper cut, just like you'd do with planes if you were trying to achieve the absolute best surface. If you roll a burr on the scraper, the shaving that comes off of a burr rolled on a honed edge should be similar to a plane shaving, and the finish not much worse than a plane (that is, brighter than sanding and with more dimension/life). If you can get everything scraped such that you don't have to sand due to having to scrape across grain or something, then I wouldn't sand.

If you sand, you can always vacuum and burnish with shavings if you want a little bit more dimension and brightness.

[David Ragan]

If you sand, you can always vacuum and burnish with shavings if you want a little bit more dimension and brightness.

This sounds interesting. Can you tell me more about it?

[David Weaver]

If you're planing, you should have some fresh shavings around. I don't know much about burnishing (at least in terms of how to do it "correctly"), but I'll tell you what I do, anyway. If I want to bring a surface up to brightness, I'll get shavings from wood that's a couple of steps softer (so pine for cherry, for example) and then just rub the shavings briskly across the cherry. If you sand to a fairly fine finish and vacuum out the dust in the pores, you can get decent brightness on a surface. (if you use thick shavings of equivalent hardness, you'll just get marks in the surface and have to plane them out....but fluff smoother shavings of the same hardness would probably work).

There are purpose-made burnishers that look like tiny brooms with short bristles, but this is the poor man's way.

I remember asking an aunt how the surface finish on her knitting needles was so bright and she said that the woman who made them for her turned them and burnished them only. No sanding and no finish. Just turned and burnished.

You can experiment with it. I don't know what level of sanding is needed for it to work well. If I do have to sand, I never stop shy of 320 and I vigorously vacuum the wood to get the dust out.

[David Ragan]

thanks David, that sounds cool.

Good to know all my vacuuming has been worthwhile. dont' have much pine around. will save some of the more whispy cherry stuff and see out it goes.

[paul cottingham]

A very easy, and foolproof way to use that scraper is to put a thick blade in it loose, set it to a small (say 15-20) degree of lean, set it on a solid surface, leave the blade flush, and tighten it. Lean it forward just a little more, and it will take awesome shavings. No hook, no screwing around. Works fantastic. If I didn't prefer my no. 80 so much, I would have kept my 120. The money was more useful.

[David Ragan]

A very easy, and foolproof way to use that scraper is to put a thick blade in it loose, set it to a small (say 15-20) degree of lean, set it on a solid surface, leave the blade flush, and tighten it. Lean it forward just a little more, and it will take awesome shavings. No hook, no screwing around. Works fantastic.

Good.

How about chatter?

[paul cottingham]

if you use a thick (1/8") blade, you will not get chatter. At least I didn't.

[Daniel Rode]

Wrong thread.