Tuning a Wooden Rabbet Plane

[John Crawford]

Hi Everyone:

My darling and I have some picture framing we have been wanting to do for years, just simple medium sized stuff in the 20 to 40 inch range. We shopped around today and framing shops want around $400 apiece (that is after the holiday 40% discount).

I have made some nicer frames in a shop that had a framing guillotine.... I've also made some crude ones with just a table saw and a power miter saw. But I have no such tools (or any power tools) now....

My first thought was: Sweet, if I spend $300 on the Veritas plow plane and $100 on materials, I'll save hundreds in the end!! Then reality set in.... So, I started thinking about that $6 estate-sale rabbet plane that I have never fixed up.

My actual question: I've been wanting to learn how to use one of these. This isn't beautiful, but the iron is quite solid, and the wedge still holds it firm. The only problem is that the edge that rides against the wood has become a bit rounded with use, so it is hard to get a precise start to my cut.

Am I doing any damage if I just plane/sand the right side of this plane, and make sure that side is square with the base? (I realize I don't want to remove too much material. I also realize this is crude, but I don't think we are dealing with a national treasure here.)

This plane is a bit over 2" thick; should I just look for a smaller one for the job?

Thanks for your suggestions!

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[James Lehr]

Idk if this held but Paul sellers has a video out on building and tuning a "poor man's rabbet/rebate plane". It's informative.

[Kees Heiden]

A rabbet plane is pretty simple. You want square edges, a flat sole, the iron should shighly protrude beyond the sides and the sides of the iron need a little relief to the backside.

Of course you can plane the sides to tidy up the squareness of the stock, but you need to grind the iron a bit narrower too, I would first bring this one up to snuff and then see how it works and if you want another narrower size. A narrower one works nicer on narrow rabbets of course.

[Warren Mickley]

The only situation in which you would want to plane the side is if the plane is too wide for the iron. The iron should project out to the right side of the plane just enough to see it like a hair.

I think you should concentrate on the iron and the wedge. You could certainly use this plane the way it is if iron and wedge are in good shape and well regulated. It appears that your wedge is missing quite a bit of length. Usually a wedge comes down closer to the mouth and is shaped so as to help guide the shavings toward the left side and start them curling around; it works with the curve in the mouth opening. The edge of the iron should be parallel to the sole so you can adjust it for fine shavings.

Get the thing working first and then make alterations in response to problems as they present themselves.

For making rabbets in frame material, you might think about a moving filister (rabbet with a fence). Alternatively you could buy frame material already made up and still enjoy great savings. People I have known who made frames at home invested in tools like mitre cutters, corner clamps, mat cutters and tools for securing the back. I think it would be better to learn the craft with commercial frame material first.

[Jim Matthews]

The edge of the plane riding against the workpiece must be squared, and sharp.

It should be cutting (however lightly) along any point it contacts the wood.
Otherwise, a rounded edge will not cut and the fillet will progress "outward" in a series of steps.

Please search Matt Bickford's excellent blog, "Musings from Big Pink" for more background.

The down and dirty - you need to lap the back flat, and hone the sides to 91 degrees or so.
Only the leading edge of the iron - on all three cutting surfaces should cut.

FYI - A proper Rabbet plane has a blade that is slightly wider than the body, by design.

[Bill Rhodus]

Matt bickford has a good web site with videos showing how to use molding planes; well worth a look and easy to google

[John Crawford]

Hi Everyone:

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll check out these resources and proceed as Jim suggests.

Warren: thanks for the info on the wedge extending into mouth, I didn't know that.... Maybe this was a quick and dirty replacement that kept the plane going.... I have most of the other mat cutters and framing supplies, but thanks for the warning! I'd love to have a moving filister some day....