In Search Of A Tapering Jig

[scott vroom]

I'm searching for a tapering jig, initially to make table legs. I've looked at several videos here and on YouTube and most are based on a sled, straight edge, and hold down mechanisms. Below is a vid that was posted recently on another SMC thread. Seems that the initial setup is good for repeating cuts on 2 adjacent sides of a leg, but that to taper the sides opposite the cut sides requires resetting the blocks. Easy enough. But I don't understand how to ensure the saw blade first enters the leg at precisely the same point as on the opposing side. In other words, say for example that the initial cuts started precisely at 4" from the leg end. When moving the blocks and re-doing the setup for the opposite side of the leg, how can I ensure the blade enters the wood at precisely 4" from the end? Am I making sense? Not sure how else to ask the question. Any tricks that I'm missing?

http://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/video/a-simple-tapering-jig.aspx

[Nelson Howe]

Scott, I built basically just that jig. It works great. When you realign for the next cuts, you line up your layout line with the edge of the jig. The edge of the jig is precisely where the cut will be, so your cut will be as accurate as your ability to put your line on the edge of the jig.

Nelson

[scott vroom]

Thanks Nelson....that's what I thought. I'll build a jig and give it a go.

[John TenEyck]

Scott, you ought to look at this one by Steve Latta in FWW #229: http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/57429/see-it-in-motion-tablesaw-leg-tapering-jig

John

[glenn bradley]

I had rendered down a number of designs into the things that were important to me only to find the Woodsmith version had everything (http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/609/taper-jig.pdf)I was after. Mine varies a bit in capacity but, is generally the same.

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The leg rotates on a pin so any number of sides can be done without a change in setup or keeping track of cut-offs to tape back on.

[scott vroom]

Glenn, do you drill the holes in the leg on a drill press? If so, how do you hold the leg on the table in a vertical position?

[Paul Girouard]

I built this one years ago,

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/tapeingrjig.jpg (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/PEG688/media/tapeingrjig.jpg.html)

Then was given a gift card and got one from Rockler :
The photo won't load from PB , so look it up on Rackler's webpage , sorry.


PB decided to work:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Sept1720081.jpg (http://s21.photobucket.com/user/PEG688/media/Sept1720081.jpg.html)





They are odd to use , everything you've run thru a table saw is run straight along the fence, there's a optical challenge when you use one that you need to be aware of.

[Vince Shriver]

Glen Huey has a video doing a tapered leg on the jointer.

[steve joly]

If it is an option the jointer works great and does perfect tapers

[James Zhu]

Glen Huey has a video doing a tapered leg on the jointer.

It is the most dangerous way doing tapered leg I have ever seen, he really should remove that youtube video.

[Bill Huber]

My jig is a lot like Glenn's but the big difference is I do not use the miter slot, I use the fence to ride the jig along.

What this does is let me use much wider boards. I don't have a stop on the end what I do is just mark the tapper and then line it up with the edge of the jig. I do have a removeable fence on it so I can do repeated cuts but I don't use it that much.

A tapering jig can be used for more then just doing tapers, like when you have a board that has no straight edge, you can make a straight edge on one side and then use that edge against the fence for the other side.

I just make some Christmas tree things for the grand-kids and used the jig for that, marked the angle and then measured from the edge of the jig to the mark on each end and cut it, they came out great. The little trees were 18" high and 12" wide, if I had used the miter slot I would not have been able to cut them. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?224395-Nice-little-thing-for-the-kids

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[Jim Finn]

It is the most dangerous way doing tapered leg I have ever seen, he really should remove that youtube video.
I agree! 100%

[steve joly]

Sorry to get off topic a little but why is it unsafe? I've had good luck with it but I'm not interested in continuing to do something that is dangerous and certainly wouldn't want to recommend someone else do it.

[scott vroom]

Sorry to get off topic a little but why is it unsafe? I've had good luck with it but I'm not interested in continuing to do something that is dangerous and certainly wouldn't want to recommend someone else do it.

I don't see the danger as long as the guard is in place...maybe the other guys can explain?

Safety issues aside, Huey's jointer method seems to be a whole lot more effort and time vs using a TS tapering jig.

[James Zhu]

Sorry to get off topic a little but why is it unsafe? I've had good luck with it but I'm not interested in continuing to do something that is dangerous and certainly wouldn't want to recommend someone else do it.

Check the comments under the video.

I was very nervous when he used the small push sticks applying downward pressure to push the leg with two contacting points thru the cutter. The worst scenario I could see is your hands run into the cutter because of the kickback or your push stick somehow slips.

The only safe way doing tapered leg on joiner is to build a bridge type jig with leg firmly secured under it plus some stops for fast repeatable cut, so your hands are away from the cutter.

[scott vroom]

I had rendered down a number of designs into the things that were important to me only to find the Woodsmith version had everything (http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/609/taper-jig.pdf)I was after. Mine varies a bit in capacity but, is generally the same.

301109301110301111

The leg rotates on a pin so any number of sides can be done without a change in setup or keeping track of cut-offs to tape back on.

Is anyone else using a pin to rotate the leg? This seems to be a superior setup since it allows one to taper all 4 sides without re-doing the setup.

Glenn, is it possible to take a couple more pics showing that pin and clamp setup from the inside (other side of the plywood block)?

[scott vroom]

The only safe way doing tapered leg on joiner is to build a bridge type jig with leg firmly secured under it plus some stops for fast repeatable cut, so your hands are away from the cutter.

Is there a video showing this method?

[James Zhu]

Is there a video showing this method?

It is only my idea. I am not sure if anyone else did that.

[Jim Becker]

Scott, I encourage you to build a jig for this...it's a nice project in itself and will be a go-to in your shop for as long as you continue with this, um...addiction. ;)

I liked mine so much that when I switched to a slider from a traditional cabinet saw, I took the time to adapt it to my slider's wagon for continued use for what the jig excels at!

[Daniel Moore]

Is anyone else using a pin to rotate the leg? This seems to be a superior setup since it allows one to taper all 4 sides without re-doing the setup.

Glenn, is it possible to take a couple more pics showing that pin and clamp setup from the inside (other side of the plywood block)?

Yes, I use a jig very similar to Glenn's (drill the leg end and rotate the leg on the pin). I also run it in the miter slot. At the apron end of the leg, I have an adjustable/tie-down that holds the leg in place so that when the leg is rotated, the taper begins at the same point on each side. My pin end of the jig is not a fancy as Glenn's. Instead of being continuously adjustable, I have several pin blocks that I swap out depending on the size legs that I'm cutting. Glenn's is a better arrangement.

This method is definitely a superior way to taper legs.

[scott vroom]

Daniel, do you have a couple of pics of your jig, the apron end in particular?

[Keith Hankins]

Explain how that vid is dangerous?

[scott vroom]

Keith, I think they may have missed the graphic that said "guard removed for demonstration purposes only; use the guard when doing this in your shop" (or something to that effect).

[Keith Hankins]

Watch CN's vid on his jig.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIc1m5s-jiE

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, do you drill the holes in the leg on a drill press? If so, how do you hold the leg on the table in a vertical position?

The hole is quite shallow and so has minimal impact on your work. I have a couple of drills that have bulls-eye levels stuck to the back of them. I level the leg in the vise and drill the hole with a drill motor.

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Is anyone else using a pin to rotate the leg? This seems to be a superior setup since it allows one to taper all 4 sides without re-doing the setup.

Glenn, is it possible to take a couple more pics showing that pin and clamp setup from the inside (other side of the plywood block)?

Here's a shot of the components apart and assembled:

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This would be a 'normal' operating position:

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This is the maximum setting for a 4" dimension at the small end of the taper:

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This is the minimum setting for a 3/4" dimension at the small end of the taper:

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The extra hole in the corner of the plate is to store the pin when the jig is used as an edge ripping jig. Note that one of my mods to the original is to allow a great range of operation and to allow the plate to be moved out of the way with out being removed (just a larger plate with longer slots):

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A few points; I tried various knobs to have a tool-less capability for the pin but, found everything I could get my hands on extended into the blade path in one configuration or another. So, I defaulted to a nut for locking the pin position just as the Woodsmith design uses. I guess maybe that's why they did it :rolleyes:. I have a raised panel jig that rides against the fence and that is a valid method. I did not want to not worry about control along that axis while doing tapers and so added the shallow dado and miter 'bar'. I did make the miter 'bar' removable in case I ran into a capacity issue as Bill H. describes. Never hurts to keep things flexible. Most of my jigs have extra functionality built in since I am selfish with my shop space. I do have a few one-trick-pony jigs but, most are multi-taskers :)

[Mike Cozad]

Thanks for the additional info. I will have to build one. I have the dangerous type bought at Woodcraft many years ago. I hate the thing.

For your knob on the pin, could you modify a handle from a small f-style clamp by setting the nut in the end with epoxy? Seems like the size might stay out of the blade path (if I am picturing the blade path correctly). Just a thought. My antique jointer has similar knobs made from cast iron for the fence, which is where the idea came from.

[glenn bradley]

Thanks for the additional info. I will have to build one. I have the dangerous type bought at Woodcraft many years ago. I hate the thing.

For your knob on the pin, could you modify a handle from a small f-style clamp by setting the nut in the end with epoxy? Seems like the size might stay out of the blade path (if I am picturing the blade path correctly). Just a thought. My antique jointer has similar knobs made from cast iron for the fence, which is where the idea came from.

Hey! A vertical knob is a good idea. It would have to have a maximum diameter of about 1/2" but, I will keep my eye out. If it really bugs me I cold just make one but, the 7/16" 'spin-tite' is always nearby for two other machines that stand in that area so I have, so far, been lazy.

[scott vroom]

Glenn, thanks for posting the additional pics...very helpful. Is there a particular name for the threaded pin? Where did you purchase it? I tried using Google but came up empty.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Glenn, thanks for posting the additional pics...very helpful. Is there a particular name for the threaded pin? Where did you purchase it? I tried using Google but came up empty.

I've done this before, for another purpose. The detailed name of the threaded pin is:

1/4" hex bolt & hacksaw, plus file to deburr after you cut the head off.

[scott vroom]

I've done this before, for another purpose. The detailed name of the threaded pin is:

1/4" hex bolt & hacksaw, plus file to deburr after you cut the head off.

Actually I was referring to the pin that holds the leg in place....the one with the oblong plate that slides into the blue anodized channel. :)

Edit: OK, I think I get it....it's a sawed off hex bolt with a threaded T-nut?

[Kent A Bathurst]

Actually I was referring to the pin that holds the leg in place....the one with the oblong plate that slides into the blue anodized channel. :)

Edit: OK, I think I get it....it's a sawed off hex bolt with a threaded T-nut?

Oh - I misunderstood you. But, the tee-nut.....Works for me.

I do this kind of jury-rig stuff all the time; I keep a good assortment of hex bolts, machine, screws, tee-nuts, all-thread rod, "junk" in the parlance. Thin and thick UHMW sheet stock, brass and aluminum plate and bars - round and square. Always find some things I did not know I had. Start grabbing parts until it fits the purpose.

[Daniel Moore]

Daniel, do you have a couple of pics of your jig, the apron end in particular?

Sorry it took so long getting back. My reply may now be OBE. I can't upload a picture at this time . My nephew borrowed my jig about a month ago. But, there's nothing complicated about fastening the apron end of the leg down to the jig. I have a simple adjustable stop to set/fix the depth of the leg to set the beginning of the taper. Then, I have a screw down clamp that reaches over and holds the leg (on the top surface) down against the jig base. To rotate the leg to cut another taper, you loosen the clamp, rotate the leg, push the apron end up against the stop and clamp it down.