Cutting Copper Tubing

[Bill Adamsen]

Had some time this morning - and in an effort to get more organized - milled up strips to hold router bits in a drawer. Of course, I don't have that 17/32" or 9/16" drill bit suitable for holding the 1/2" shank bits, and a 1/2" bit drills a hole too tight to get the bits in and out easily. By serendipity, discovered that 1/2" copper tubing fits a 5/8" hole perfectly, and type L tubing provides a nice loose fit for 1/2" shank bits. What is an easy way to make the large number of copper tubing cutoffs (50+/-) necessary to hold my bits? I left my tubing cutters someplace "not here" apparently - and I'd be loathe to do that many cuts with a tubing cutter anyway.

[Rick Thompson34]

Metal cutting blade on a band saw using a miter gauge and stop block? Not sure if that would be a perfect solution, but it's probably where I'd start.

Rick

[Bill Adamsen]

Wonder if there is a cheap plastic pipe available at home centers that would do the same thing, and be easier to cut?

[Cary Falk]

I wouldn't hesitate to cut them on a table saw or a miter saw. Make sure you have a good grip so it doesn't spin and cause issues. A carbide blade will cut it like butta...

[Ellen Benkin]

Plumbers use tubing cutters that last for years. Why wouldn't you use one?

[Bill Huber]

Plumbers use tubing cutters that last for years. Why wouldn't you use one?

He left his cutter some place and does not have it any more.

[Bill Huber]

Years ago I cut a bunch of copper tubing on the table saw with a non-ferrous blade in the saw and it worked great. I did do a real good clean up after I finished.

I just set a stop on the fence like I would do with wood and cut away, I cut like 100 of them 6" long.

[Mike Cutler]

80+ tooth carbide tipped blade on a drop miter saw. You'll need to make a ZCI fixture with stops built in to control the length.
I cut about a zillion rings from Type M a few years back for a wind chime thingy a coworker was making. He bought the blade and I got to keep it for doing the cuts.

[scott vroom]

A tube cutter is fast and leaves a clean cut. Cutting with a saw will require de-burring (assuming you even care about a jagged edge). A small Ridgid cutter is around 10 bucks.

[scott vroom]

I just re-read the original post. Wouldn't it be easier/cheaper to just pick up a 9/16 bit at the local hardware?

[Mark Bolton]

Using a tubing cutting will roll the internal edge of the tubing and require reaming which will leave a less than desirable outcome if you need a clean internal for the bit to slide in. Very fine blade on the band saw would be best Id think but will still require cleanup/deburring.

[Bill Adamsen]

Job done! Cut about fifty using an old blade in the chop box. Worked great, cleanup was a bit of a drag. Didn't need to sand or clean up any of the cutoffs.

Fifty cuts with even a quality tubing cutter would not only have required deburring ... but would have taken F O R E V E R (with type M tubing) !!!

[Jason White]

Bandsaw with a wood-cutting blade. Copper is very soft.

[Kevin McCluney]

Is there going to be an issue with galvanic corrosion where the router bits' steel shafts touch the copper tubing?

[scott vroom]

Using a tubing cutting will roll the internal edge of the tubing and require reaming which will leave a less than desirable outcome if you need a clean internal for the bit to slide in. Very fine blade on the band saw would be best Id think but will still require cleanup/deburring.

Nah...no need to ream for that application. Even with the rolled in edge it leaves a 17/32 hole, perfect for a 1/2" bit. Copper is softer than steel, that inward edge will soften over time, won't scratch the shank, and won't be noticeable at all. But more than one way to skin that cat and it looks like the OP has a workable solution.

[Bill Adamsen]

Is there going to be an issue with galvanic corrosion where the router bits' steel shafts touch the copper tubing?
Thought about that, and I'm prepared to sleeve with something else if problems are detected. Frankly, keeping them in a wood wood rack has been moderately destructive over time.

[scott vroom]

Thought about that, and I'm prepared to sleeve with something else if problems are detected. Frankly, keeping them in a wood wood rack has been moderately destructive over time.

Interesting...how has the wood damaged the shanks? I've used wood trays for years....can't imagine how that would cause a problem?

[Mark Bolton]

Nah...no need to ream for that application. Even with the rolled in edge it leaves a 17/32 hole, perfect for a 1/2" bit. Copper is softer than steel, that inward edge will soften over time, won't scratch the shank, and won't be noticeable at all. But more than one way to skin that cat and it looks like the OP has a workable solution.

I had no idea what the Id of tubing cutter-cut tubing was but if I were going to that extent a rolled edge would not be acceptable to me. If I were going to the extent of sleeving router bits in copper Id be taking it a bit farther than a sharp rolled edge. But to each his own.

[glenn bradley]

I just re-read the original post. Wouldn't it be easier/cheaper to just pick up a 9/16 bit at the local hardware?

Now Scott, anyone can just get the right tool for the job. Where's the adventure in that!?! :)

[John Donhowe]

Is there going to be an issue with galvanic corrosion where the router bits' steel shafts touch the copper tubing?

There won't be any galvanic corrosion if there is no moisture where the two metals contact.

[Cary Falk]

Interesting...how has the wood damaged the shanks? I've used wood trays for years....can't imagine how that would cause a problem?
I am assume he is referring to the rust that can form on the shanks from the moisture in the wood.

[scott vroom]

I'm located in the SF Bay Area....no rust on the shanks after ~6 years.....redwood holder. Perhaps in humid climates it would be a problem?

[Kevin McCluney]

True, but there is moisture in the air (a lot in my shop's case), plus whatever is picked up simply from touching them. It may not be a big issue, but using something like PVC would avoid the potential for a problem.