Mark Singer
07-17-2005, 10:16 AM
Rough framing or carpentry is what typically creates the structure of most homes. If not checked carefully it can make drywall, cabinets, finish carpentry, and many other trades a nightmare to follow.
1. My contract with the framer includes a clause which says he will straighten and check all framing surface and correct to 1/8" in 8'. He can shim, plane or kerf and strongback walls and ceilings to meet the criteria. This insures we are ready for finish. I also ask for the installation of backing as part of his contract.
2. Door openings should be checked with a level for plumb in both directions. Also strings running on diagnols on door trimmers should be used to check for all surface to lie in the same plane. The strings should just touch in the middle. If they don't the door stop will run at an angle vertically on at least one side. TIP:If you are making pre hungs....leave the stop off so the screws can be hidden behind the stop. The trimmer is the last stud which is loose and next to the king stud and should be secured with nails to insure the jamb is secure.
3. Cabinet walls should have adequate backing for uppers and lowers. This is typically flat 2x blocks in walls. Any heavy pieces may require 4x and anchored with metal framing anchors like A35's.
4. In closets it is a good idea to sheet the walls with 1/2" plywood after all plumbing, wiring and insulation are in. This gives continuous backing for attaching anything like closet systems, racks etc.
5.If the bottom kitchen window is to end up flush with the top of the counter top, it is a good idea to leave the sill low and let the rough top for the counter run into the window frame. If it is a bit low it is easy to raise when the rough top goes in.
6. All walls that terminate cabinet lines should come 1 1/2" past so there is a reveal.
7. If you are using full height doors, let the head jamb thickness project below the finished ceiling. In time any movement could cause the door to bind and scrape the ceiling.
There are loads of important framing things to check....the above is a short list relative to the install of cabinets and doors.
1. My contract with the framer includes a clause which says he will straighten and check all framing surface and correct to 1/8" in 8'. He can shim, plane or kerf and strongback walls and ceilings to meet the criteria. This insures we are ready for finish. I also ask for the installation of backing as part of his contract.
2. Door openings should be checked with a level for plumb in both directions. Also strings running on diagnols on door trimmers should be used to check for all surface to lie in the same plane. The strings should just touch in the middle. If they don't the door stop will run at an angle vertically on at least one side. TIP:If you are making pre hungs....leave the stop off so the screws can be hidden behind the stop. The trimmer is the last stud which is loose and next to the king stud and should be secured with nails to insure the jamb is secure.
3. Cabinet walls should have adequate backing for uppers and lowers. This is typically flat 2x blocks in walls. Any heavy pieces may require 4x and anchored with metal framing anchors like A35's.
4. In closets it is a good idea to sheet the walls with 1/2" plywood after all plumbing, wiring and insulation are in. This gives continuous backing for attaching anything like closet systems, racks etc.
5.If the bottom kitchen window is to end up flush with the top of the counter top, it is a good idea to leave the sill low and let the rough top for the counter run into the window frame. If it is a bit low it is easy to raise when the rough top goes in.
6. All walls that terminate cabinet lines should come 1 1/2" past so there is a reveal.
7. If you are using full height doors, let the head jamb thickness project below the finished ceiling. In time any movement could cause the door to bind and scrape the ceiling.
There are loads of important framing things to check....the above is a short list relative to the install of cabinets and doors.