Pepper Grinder Kind and Source......

[Wally Dickerman]

I've had a request for some pepper grinders. I've never made one but what the heck.

Question....What is the best mechanism and where do you get them?

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

as both a cook and a turner - the CrushGrind mechanism is the easiest to work with (turning) and use while cooking.

available from many vendors: Craft Supplies, chefwarekits.com and several others.

[Mike Golka]

I'll second the vote for CrushGrind. I've made and sold at least 50 mills using these and they are easy to adjust to the height of your mill. They also have a 25 year warranty.

[Tim Rinehart]

Wally, I'll second Shawn's recommendation on the CrushGrind. If you decide on the CrushGrind, I'd recommend looking at the information on sizing the key diametrical fits from the Crushgrind.us site and then contact me if you want more specifics. There's alot of inconsistency among the various suppliers, and can result in modifications resulting in sloppy fits and the need for epoxy to hold them in. None of this is necessary if correct standard US forstner bits used, and a little ingenuity to make your own slotting tool, in lieu of spending about $50 on one commercially made. I sent a note to Woodcraft to modify their instructions, and depending on response, may contact the others also. None of them, I've found, are consistent with the manufacturer's specs.
The warranty on these is pretty much lifetime.

Edit: I've had a couple folks ask about the info I sent WC, so here it is. 300860

[Joseph M Lary]

www.chefspecialties.com , Wally I buy mine here . I have not tried the crush grind yet .

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I've had a request for some pepper grinders. I've never made one but what the heck.

Question....What is the best mechanism and where do you get them?

Wally Peugeot from France has always been the best grinder, but we are unable to buy the mechanisms as individuals, so than the Crushgrind ceramic grinders are the ones that are next best and work just fine.

Here’s a link to CrushGrind.US, instructions and buy online available right there, have fun :) 300843

[Scott Hackler]

I also vouch for Crushgrind. That is what kind Jim Adkins taught me how to make (after David Keller taught him!) and so I have stuck with them. I like NOT having the metal knob on the top and by using the Crushgrind you have only your imagination as far as style. Only down side is the 4 drill bits needed! I guess the price you pay to play!

I modified the instructions to have a tenon on the inside of the top portion to sit in a recess in the bottom portion and make them real tight and finish the fit with some 400 for a perfect slip fit. That helps the top track to the bottom. The mech top portion is rounded edge plastic and by itself, isn't a solid feel. With the wood tenon it is. Takes a bit longer, but it's worth it too me.

I buy mine from CraftSupplies.

[William C Rogers]

I also vouch for Crushgrind. That is what kind Jim Adkins taught me how to make (after David Keller taught him!) and so I have stuck with them. I like NOT having the metal knob on the top and by using the Crushgrind you have only your imagination as far as style. Only down side is the 4 drill bits needed! I guess the price you pay to play!

I modified the instructions to have a tenon on the inside of the top portion to sit in a recess in the bottom portion and make them real tight and finish the fit with some 400 for a perfect slip fit. That helps the top track to the bottom. The mech top portion is rounded edge plastic and by itself, isn't a solid feel. With the wood tenon it is. Takes a bit longer, but it's worth it too me.

I buy mine from CraftSupplies.

Another vote for crush grind. Scott that is a good tip I will incorporated in my next one.

bill

[Peter Fabricius]

Hi Wally,
Like Scott I also put a tenon on the top to ensure it tracks perfectly with the body. The little plastic insert goes into the tenon and snaps into a grove in the top.
The issue of the special four Forstner bits can easily be overcome by using the bits you already have... Just drill with a bit slightly smaller than needed and then expand the hole with a 1/4 x 1/4" parting tool, easy! Remember the pepper does not care what size the hole through the body is, so make it the size of the tenon you want for the top to fit into.
The grove in the bottom is also cut with a grooving tool made from a Alan Key set in a nice Cherry handle that I made.
The Crush Grind mechanism is definitely the best, even more so than the expensive French one.
Lee Valley offers quantity discounts, 1-5 at $14 + or - .
Peter F.

[Wally Dickerman]

Thanks for all the info folks!.....Sounds like crushgrind is the clear winner. The tenon that Scott and Peter mention sounds like something that should be incorporated into the design.

[Peter Fabricius]

Here is a picture of a couple of mills that I have made. Note the tenon on the top and the plastic driver insert. I use both the groove up in the top and in the body to hold the tabs and I also use Epoxy to ensure the parts hold securely and forever.
Reading the notes on the WWW.crushgrind.usa (http://WWW.crushgrind.usa) site there is discussion on the drill sizes.... I have not tried this yet but using the 7/8" Forstner bit instead of the larger 15/16" bit is what I do and then enlarge the hole slightly with the parting tool. I will try not enlarging the hole to see if the plastic insert will fit tight.
The same for the bottom stage two hole, I cut with the 1 1/2" bit but will try not enlarging the hole to see how the grinder mechanism fits in. I can see how the smaller holes will allow the ribs on the sides of the parts will grab and hold onto the wood.
I am still going to use a little Epoxy!
Peter F.

[Tim Rinehart]

7/8" and 1-1/2" holes for those key fits are just a couple thousandths of an inch larger than the mfr (Crushgrind) recommended sizes in mm. Works great, nice and tight fit with no chance of epoxy running into the mechanism or finished area of mill. Give it a try...you'll not go back. :)

[Steve Paxman]

So, looking at the crushgrind website, it looks like this all means you could make your peppermill as tall as you want, right? The mechanism is all in the bottom few inches, and above that, as long as you can drill through it to get the pepper into the top, you could make a 36" peppermill, if you were so inclined?

[Scott Hackler]

Yes and no. The rod from the top to the bottom parts of the mech are connected by a square rod. If you had a way to extend that or replace it...then yes.

[Tim Rinehart]

There are two types of Crushgrind mechanism, one that is shaft less and yes, you could have as tall a mill as you like . Some dealers refer to this one as "click-in". The peppercorns or ?? are poured in and held with an upper bung/stopper.
The other type is the shaft type which is closer to a conventional mechanism in use, and the available lengths are 10" and 18", and you can shorten either one down to a couple inches tall. Perhaps 4 or 5 inches, don't recall.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

I think the tallest mill that CrushGrind sells has an 18" rod in it.

If you wanted to sacrifice the rod out of another mechanism - you could link a pair of rods together with a shaft-collar to extend the shaft to whatever length you want.

I hope that made sense.

:D

[Peter Fabricius]

Tim is right on!
If you look at my front one it is 12" tall total (the top piece is 3.5 inches tall) note the hex shaft is 10" long and I did not cut it, it sticks up into the top. When drilling for the plastic insert I go as per plan but I continue with a 3/8" hole far up enough to accommodate the long shaft.
Of note here is that you want to make sure the shaft goes more than through the plastic insert, the holder spring in the insert is at upper end so the shaft has to go more than through to hold securely!
The mill in the back of my picture is 10" tall total. The Top part is 3"
This design, totally straight sides is my Son's idea he is an Industrial Designer and this modernistic design is his favorite. Trying to make this is time consuming to get the diameter perfect all the way along the body, I use a board and backer pad and then hold each grit sandpaper against the Mill body and Top as one spindle turning.
The tenon on the Top comes in real handy here too to hold the Top and body between centres.
Peter F.