Repair for a knob?

[steven c newman]

Have a cheapy hand brace. Chuck itself is in excellent shape. The ring-like thingy that holds the knob onto the end of the brace is cracked, and falling apart
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Yeah, not good. Seems to be a "pot metal" sort of thing. The rest of the brace
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Isn't all THAT bad. The chuck is in fine shape
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Ratchet works great. All the parts are there.

So, need to repair or replace the knob. JB Weld the pot metal back together? How does one remove a knob from a brace like this?

[steven c newman]

Well. The knob IS wood. The metal holder is junk pot metal. The rest of the plane is quite good. Used it to drill a few 1" holes awhile back. The only problems was the connection of the knob. Any ideas on how to repair this knob connection?

Sweep is 8". Marked "Japan" on the arm. Looks like a Samson style chuck.

[Jim Koepke]

An attempt at fixing it with JB Weld would be my choice.

Otherwise it might be more work to bring it back than it is worth.

There are more than a few items in my shop that are just not worth the effort to put them back to work.

jtk

[steven c newman]

I have exactly $1 invested in this brace. Garage Sale find. The knob came apart doing those large holes, mainly because the operator was bearing down a bit more than he should have.

Happen to have an old router plate thingy. It was supposed to be a bushing for ....something. Looks like it might be enough to capture the bad parts into the knob, and add three small screws to hold it in place. Need to find out HOW to remove the knob...first. Then add the extra parts. Might strip that red finish off to see what type of wood is under it, too. No real rush, I guess, as i have four other braces to use. One being a 12, a couple 10" and a 8" Stanley Victor.

This brace, IF it can be repaired, would be a "travel" one, like when I am out and out, doing Honey-dos for the kids. Keeping the "good" ones for the shop. BTW: one 10" is a Millers Falls, with a BIG chuck....

[Jim Koepke]

This brace, IF it can be repaired, would be a "travel" one, like when I am out and out, doing Honey-dos for the kids. Keeping the "good" ones for the shop.

I do much the same. I have learned to use reliable tools for the "out and about" kit. Took a plane out to do a quick job in the greenhouse. Of course it fell apart twice before I decided it would be quicker to just walk back to the shop for something more reliable.

One of my uses for a junker plane that might also be good for a junker brace is at the wood stove. When some shavings are needed to rekindle the embers back into a fire it is fast work to make some. Most of the time there is a box of plane shavings in the house, but when it goes empty it is almost always late at night when I don't feel like walking out to the shop.

jtk

[Richard Line]

H'mm, wood burning stove, under used plane. What an idea. Thanks.

[David Weaver]

Round file.

[steven c newman]

Very.... funny..... in..... fact , I..... almost.... forgot.... to.... laugh

So, all the "jokes" aside

The question remains

How the duece does one remove one of them knobs?

Throwing this away is NOT an answer. Sure, I happen to have a few other, "better" ones, but, I would like to at least give this brace a better chance. The chuck is in A-1 shape, BTW.

Now, if we can skip the funny stuff.....Removal of a brace's knob?

[Jim Koepke]

Removal of a brace's knob?

Different makers had different methods of attaching the pad (knob).

Some are even threaded onto the metal piece and then held by small screws.

Clear pictures of the underside might help. Can't really tell in your pictures, but could the pad (knob) be made in two pieces and glued together to trap part of the metal piece?

jtk

[steven c newman]

Looks more like just a press fit down inside. Not sure if a 16oz "helper" would drive it off. The junk metal up inside is just flaking out. I MIGHT know where a replacement knob might be. Had a 1/2" drive speed bar that looks like a brace. Have better sppeders now, so it is excess iron. Has a metal kanoobie on it.

[Mel Miller]

Round file.
The round file is definitely where that junk brace belongs.

[steven c newman]

Ah, another from the peanut gallery chimes in....

Well, the knob has been removed. The pot metal retainer just fell out in little bits of schrapnel

Wood was pretty well wallowed out inside, too.

Found the 1/2" drive sppeder bar. Turns out, it is a diamond with a W inside Williams S B. USA

metal pad and grip, too. Hmmmmm, nah probably "junk" according to the esteemed panel here....

However, maybe a cut here, a thread there......will have to explore a few more things. Round file? Is that like a Rat-tail file?

[Jim Koepke]

metal kanoobie

Any relation to Obie Won?

How can you expect people to stop joking when there is such a great set up line?

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Round file? Is that like a Rat-tail file?

It is an office worker expression. It is a circular shaped filing cabinet with an open top. Usually no higher than ankle level for depositing low priority items. Often removed in the evening for proper filing in the outdoor file system known as a dumpster.

jtk

[steven c newman]

OK, for what it is worth. Got rid of the cheap knob. Found an Antique "knob" and did a bit grinding
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Locktite CA to keep it there. That is not white paint. If I need to, I can drill and tap for a small bolt to keep it there. This might get used just to drive some screws. As for the chuck
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Hate to throw something like this away...
BTW all parts that should be in that chuck, are in there, Chuck works very nicely.

[Pat Barry]

Does your new knob spin? Looks like you went and glued it to the part that is intended to be the inner bearing point. The CA glue won't last long in that application. You should at least drill a hole, tap it, run a machine screw into it with a big fender washer on top to secure the knob yet let it spin freely. The problem will be putting in a big enough screw to match the ID of your replacement knob. You might want to re-use the old knob with this sort of fix. Even so, you may need to make a sleeve for the knob to get the right ID.

[steven c newman]

Not intended to spin. Square post into a square hole. Handle is glass smooth, too. Not intended for a fast spin like drilling a hole. Might be better to drive screws with, though. It would have more torque than the two Yankee/Handyman 133a I have.

[Mel Miller]

Should have round filed it, and saved your time & effort for something worthwhile. ;) :rolleyes:

[steven c newman]

I think I can afford to have this one around. After all, I also have all of these
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Plus a Millers Falls #732 10". There is also another eggbeater in the tool chest. Without the storage in the handle, though. Will need to find a few screwdriver bits for use in a hand brace....

Left to right: Pexto 8012, Made in Germany H.S. 102, a very old 8", and a Stanley Victor 8". The eggbeater in the photo is a Stanley#620, the one in the chest is a GMC version.

Full set of irwin bits, too.

[steven c newman]

Ok, now the Brace-drivers.
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In the back, there is a Williams 1/2" drive speeder bar/brace, in the front is the rehabbed brace. It has a magnetic adapter, and a adapter to hold a socket.
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Or, I can place a screwdriver tip in theholder to drive any sort of screw type. And, have a ratchet to use at the same time.
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Inside all that fancy detail on the metal knob, is a Diamond with a "W" inside. Been trying to clean up a brace made in Germany, as well
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Only other markings is a H.S. 102. There is a brass ferrel on the wooden knob, the rest of the knob is a dark hardwood.
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Just a brass ferrel on the end. There is a soldered metal ring ahead of the ferrel. The chuck is nothing fancy, and well beat up
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But it will hold the larger of the taps I have. And yes, I do have a "regular" tap wrench, too.

Might be of some use here in the Dungeon Shop...