Some Help Selecting Mortiser

[Stew Hagerty]

I have some money I've been saving some money for a Benchtop Mortiser. I've pretty much narrowed it down to three. I expect to see many of you tell me to buy one in particular. It is the most expensive of the three and pretty much uses all the money I've been putting away for one. Granted it does also have some very nice features.

I am a one man amateur shop. I mostly make things for family & riends, especmy granddaughter. I don't do M & T's every day, but when I do, I usually do several. By that, I mean I don't need the very best but I also don't want one that won't do the job or breaks why I use it.
The three I have been considering.

Powermatic 1791310 PM701 3/4 Horsepower Bench Mortiser

WoodRiver Bench Top Mortiser with Chisels & Bits

Shop Fox W1671 3/4 HP Heavy-duty Mortising Machine

[Paul Wunder]

I have the Steel City Toolworks Mortiser (identical to the Wood River). It is a sturdy well built unit with nice hold downs. Be aware that any unit in your price range will have lower quality chisels and bits that will need to be immediately sharpened. I found out about the need for sharpening the hard way.

[Dan Hahr]

I bought a Delta from amazon and got three in a row before they stopped shipping me new ones. They all had broken cast iron base castings. I then bought a Shop Fox and the first time I fired it up, I had bits of metal flying around inside the motor. The one mortise I tried scorched the bit and chisel. I took it back to the store and gave up until I lucked into a Jet. It is much nicer than the other two and I've been very happy. It's probably very similar to the PM but I think it is only 1/2 hp which is plenty.

Dan

[Shawn Pixley]

I have the Powermatic and would buy it again. I use it when I am not chopping mortises by hand. When I researched it, it was the best recomendation.

[Sean Walker]

I have the woodriver and have had several parts break within the first year of usage. I would not buy this product again, and would go with a floor standing unit. The good thing about the Woodriver is the customer service was excellent. They shipped me replacement parts free of charge and fast shipping.

[Rod Sheridan]

I've owned the General International one for over 12 years.

It always wound up in the top area in magazine tests.

Mine has made over a thousand mortices, still works like new...................Rod.

[Jim Barstow]

I have a g0448 heavy duty mortiser that I bought after using delta benchtop mortiser for many years. I considered the general but finding one (or getting service and parts) was problematic. I cut many, many mortisers on the bench top machine and got fed up with flex, pain-in-the-xxx setup, and must mediocre quality. The grizzly isn't perfect (vise is set up for large material but I figured out how to make it work well for smaller stuff) but I cut 32 mortises yesterday and it was a pleasure.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Stew,

It's not one of your listed ones but I have a General International. It works very well. It clamps in two planes.

Some advice that will apply to whichever mortiser you buy. Regardless of which one you buy, the bits and the chisels must be sharp, sharp, sharp! The chisels must be sharpened on the inside cone and flattened/sharpened on the outside as you would a regular chisel but you have 4 faces to flatten. I bought two kits. The kit sold by Woodcraft will cut a new surface on the inner cone but it's still not sharp enough. The cone shaped diamond hone kit sold at Rockler will improve the surface left by the Woodcraft kit. I use both in that order to sharpen the chisel.

The bit must be sharpened too. I use a small jewelers file and a diamond hone to sharpen the bit's cutting edge.

[mreza Salav]

I have the General internationl (tilting head). I have bought it for two specific jobs and most likely will sell it after them.
It is hard to operate these on very hard woods (like Maple) compared to a Domino.

[John Grace]

I've owned the Powermatic for several years and found it 'robust' enough for anything but Ken's comments above are absolutely true. Regardless of machine...take great pains to ensure your bits are sharp.

[roger wiegand]

I also have the General International and have been very happy with it. The bits that came with it required a fair amount of tuning.

[glenn bradley]

Before I decided to go the Mortise Pal route I had narrowed it down to one. The General model 75-050T. Remember that once you have your machine, a decent set of bits is a must unless you like sharpening before ever other mortise or so :(. The base cost of the machine my process of elimination had led me to followed by the additional cost of a good set of bits started the idea taking on a sort of life of it's own. I had to fall back and re-ask myself what problem I was trying to fix. This is a common pattern for me :o.

At any rate, the Mortise Pal is not a mortising machine and will not replace one if that is what you really need. It will however do a superior job to an average benchtop mortiser, is much more versatile and fits in the corner of a drawer. For my use (primarily furniture making) the idea of going with an "OK" benchtop machine versus the MP was an easy call. The MP will be out of it's league if you regularly require M&T larger than 1/2" by 3". When looking at the machines, consider the types of pieces you make and look for the shortcomings until you find the machine that doesn't have them. As to cost, in this range even if the cost for a good machine were double that's only about what a lot of folks spend on coffee or beer in a year and the machine will last you much longer than that :).

[Ken Frohnert]

Did you look at the new Rikon - XY Mortising Machine. I took a hardlook at it during a recent trip to Woodcraft. I thought it was nicer than the Delta.
The XY function is really neat. Overall it looked well made for the money.

[Mike Wilkins]

Can't go wrong with either the Powermatic or General benchtops. Have had the PM for several years with good results, but would not hesitate to give the General a look if I were in the market. Both get good press in the magazine reviews.

[lowell holmes]

I'm with Glen. I use Mortise Pal if making a machine mortise.

I also chop a lot of mortises with chisels.
I learned to chop mortises from Paul Sellers.
You can chop with less fuss using bevel edge chisels as well as mortise chisels.

Having said that, I'm not adverse to mortise machines, just don't need one.

[Joe Cowan]

I have the Powermatic and it is a good machine. I echo the sharp chisels voices out there. When I first tried mine, I was disappointed, but it was not the machine.

[paul cottingham]

I have the general. Really like it. Had the low end steel city, gave it to a friend.

[Mark Carlson]

I'm also with Glen and Lowell. I bought a Jet when I first started out and it works well but I just dont use it. I mainly use floating tenons with a router or use dominos. Maybe it would be worth it if I build a lot of Arts and Craft style furniture.


I'm with Glen. I use Mortise Pal if making a machine mortise.

I also chop a lot of mortises with chisels.
I learned to chop mortises from Paul Sellers.
You can chop with less fuss using bevel edge chisels as well as mortise chisels.

Having said that, I'm not adverse to mortise machines, just don't need one.

[Stew Hagerty]

First of all...
Thanks to all of you that posted comments and recommendations.

I figured on buying a sharpening cone, and I already have a set of the small diamond hones. I didn't think they would be as bad as many of you have said though.

I never saw the Mortise Pal before. I did try out the General EZ Pro mortise & tenon jig, and absolutely hated it. The MP looks like it would be much simpler to set up (KISS) and use.

I also had never before seen the Rikon Dual Axis Mortiser. I have to say, next to an expensive free standing mortiser, it appears to have the best table of any of the models I've been looking at. Even the Powermatic.

I can get the Rikon for: $350
Powermatiuc: $490
Wood River: $290
Shop Fox: $370
Mortise Pal: $214

I'm actually no longer considering the Wood River model but I put it on the list for comparison anyway.

My situation is probably different that you guys. I am disabled and in a wheelchair. If I have just a few Mortises to do, I would typically chop them. However, I wear out quickly. That is really the only reason that I'm considering a machine. Now, I also am considering the Mortise Pal.

Whichever one, I have to decide quickly, I have several projects coming up where I could use them.

Any last words???

[Rod Sheridan]

First of all...
Thanks to all of you that posted comments and recommendations.



Any last words???

Yes, is there a reason the General International isn't under consideration?

Regards, Rod.

[paul cottingham]

A few points. I, too, am disabled, but not in a wheelchair. I do tire easily. I think you need to consider whether the mortise pall will be harder to use. Pulling a handle on a mortiser is much easier than using a router to make a mortise, and you will be able to make a lot more mortises before tiring. Set up is much easier, too. Clamp in mortiser, mortise.

[scott vroom]

I've owned the General International one for over 12 years.

It always wound up in the top area in magazine tests.

Mine has made over a thousand mortices, still works like new...................Rod.

Which model?

[scott vroom]

I too am in the market for a mortiser. The Mortise Pal looks interesting but one drawback is that it wouldn't work for rectangular through tenon joinery without manually squarring off the slot ends.(unless I'm missing something).

[Rod Sheridan]

Which model?

Hi Scott, the 75-050 non tilting model...........Regards, Rod.

P.S. My brother has the newer 75-050T which is the tilting one. Same machine, his just tilts for angled mortices, I have to use a wedge.

[Stew Hagerty]

I too am in the market for a mortiser. The Mortise Pal looks interesting but one drawback is that it wouldn't work for rectangular through tenon joinery without manually squarring off the slot ends.(unless I'm missing something).

The rounded ends of the mortise from the use of a router bit are easy enough to square off. I think for a through mortise, I would knife the desired opening on both sides so that you have something to reference from.

[Stew Hagerty]

Yes, is there a reason the General International isn't under consideration?

Regards, Rod.

Thanks for catching my omission Rod. I intended to include it.

So, here goes the revised list

Rikon: $350
Powermatiuc: $490
Wood River: $290
Shop Fox: $370
General International: $439
Mortise Pal: $214

[glenn bradley]

A few points. I, too, am disabled, but not in a wheelchair. I do tire easily. I think you need to consider whether the mortise pall will be harder to use. Pulling a handle on a mortiser is much easier than using a router to make a mortise, and you will be able to make a lot more mortises before tiring. Set up is much easier, too. Clamp in mortiser, mortise.

I think Paul is on target here. Although I imagine you have your workbench and vises at a comfortable working height, taking a little time to get the material into the mortising machine and then just pulling the handle would be easier than the repeated plunging action of the Mortise Pal. As to the chisel quality of those that "come with" a machine . . . none of the reviews I read when researching had one single set of supplied chisels that they could use successfully without removing rough edges, resharpening and honing. Essentially they did everything a maker of quality chisels does before they send them to market ;-)

[Jim Andrew]

What do you guys think of the G I 75-040 model?

[Rod Sheridan]

What do you guys think of the G I 75-040 model?

Jim, a mortiser needs a vice to hold the work, the 75-040 doesn't have a vice, it's the pared down version of 75-050.

I would never buy a mortiser without a vice.........Rod.

[Stew Hagerty]

I am out in my workshop. The one that i just completed rearranged for more efficient use of space while giving me and my wheelchair significantly more maneuvering room. As I look around, I am trying to figure out exactly where I would park one of these things. I don't have the strength to lift a hundred plus pound mortiser into one of my benches. That means I need a permanent parking space for it. The only place I can think of off the top of my head is on a short stand under my floor model drill press. I've wanted one of these for a long time, but now that I've remodeled the location I had in mind for one is no longer there.

Well, I guess ive answered my own question. And now I feel really stupid for starting this thread. Although, I do like the look of that Mortise Pal. And I was unaware of it prior to this thread so I guess it wasn't a total waste.

It's a shame that Dominoes are so darn expensive. I wonder how many years before their Patent expires?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Stew,

Discussing subjects like this and learning what would best work for each of us is never a waste of time or effort. It's never a reason to feel stupid or be embarrassed. It's especially true for those of us who have some physical limitations or abilities.

I am deaf, use a cochlear implant to hear and have balance issues. I broke my back in 2001 and have limited flexibility. That's why I chose to build 2x4 grid to use for rough cutting plywood sheets and I use the grid on the floor. It's a lesser distance to fall should my balance "wander" momentarily.

[Stew Hagerty]

Thanks Ken,

Oh, I got some very good information about the various machines. And should my work volume change, I may very well get one yet. I was just kicking myself fornot looking at where i would put one sooner.
So far I have only been able to keep up with making items for family and friends. I do hope that I will one day maybe I can make back a dime or two of what I've spent setting up my shop. Oh, it has more than paid me back with what it has done for my mind, body, and spirit. But a little extra cash would be highly appreciated.
So anyway... I think I'm going to order one of those Mortise Pals. It costs half as much as the benchtop tools do and it fits in a drawer.
Thank you everyone who had some input. I appreciate it.

[Susumu Mori]

I'm just curious how many of you find yourself not using a motiser anymore after getting Domino. I felt like I'm cheating when I started to use one but it did transform my workflow and the quality of the work, although my skill level of hand works might have gone down... M&T has been one of the most time consuming and difficult parts of my woodworking but, better or worse, this process itself disappeared. On top of it, Domino transformed my panel glue-up process too. Now it simple, quick and easy. My current project requires angled tenons and I'll find out how useful Domino is for that too soon. I agree Stew that it (well all Festool products) is expensive, but this is something I do not regret. Just my 2 cents.