Oneida Dust Sentry Failure

[Robert Strasser]

I have an Oneida Dust Sentry drum level sensor for my dust collector. Unfortunately, the infrared sensor failed. I called Oneida but they would not sell the infrared sensor, nor would they give a part number so I could get it myself. After some searching I found a part that works. It is a Banner S18SN6FF100 that cost me $90 from Banner Engineering. Their website is bannerengineering.com.

The S18SN6FF100 is a Fixed Field (4 inch) sensor with NPN output (150 mA).

Just wanted to pass this information along in case anyone has the same problem. You could also make your own drum level sensor with one of these (or similar) infrared sensors, a 24 volt DC power supply, and a LED flasher. The Banner site shows how to hook up the infrared sensor.

[Frank Pratt]

We've used a few types of Banner proximity sensors at work & they seem to be a good product at a reasonable price.

[Tim Brun]

Robert. Thanks for finding this. I have had 2 of the Oneida Dust Sentry sensors fail. I also called and asked if they would sell just the sensor, and they said that they changed the supplier of the sensor and it would not be compatible. I told them it would be compatible and that it should not matter since it was just wired to an led and that I could wire up the sensor myself. It was like talking to a tree. I also talked with Banner about their sensors but could not figure out which one to use. Now I have 2 broken sensors and 2 working and constantly blinking led lights. By they way, Robert, does dust in the barrel affect the sensor and make it blink all the time? Thanks again.

[alan tasoff]

My Neanderthal approach to this has been to cut a window in the cardboard canister, and every so often , put a flashlight up to it. It works very well on the 3 h.p. Oneida cyclone.

[Ben Rivel]

Sorry to bump an old thread but Im considering building my own dust bin level sensor. Anyone know what Oneida may have changed their current sensor to? Is it another products from Banner Engineering? Or should the Banner Engineering one be avoided since thats what Oneida was using and it looks like have switched from seeing as how there were failures?

EDIT 1: yea just looking at the images of the Banner S18SN6FF100 and the latest version of the Oneida sensor (LINK (http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD.asp?Item_No=AXB999110A&CatId={428A1AFA-E859-459E-8BF9-47817428D9AF})) it appears that they are different but still a Banner product. Attempting to figure out which sensor they are now using.

EDIT 2: from my best guess it looks like they are using either the Banner QS18VN6D or QS18VP6D sensor with the only difference being an NPN or PNP transistor inside making the output a high positive or negative. Going along those lines Im guessing its a high positive and thus the NPN (QS18VN6D) would make more sense in order to trigger an LED strobe or relay to turn on said strobe. This is great as it looks like that sensor is readily available on eBay for $30-$50.

Anyone have a newer style Onieda Dust Bin Sensor and can check the Banner model number on it? It will be rectangular instead of cylindrical.

EDIT 3: Looks like this might be there strobe too: (LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Security-Alarm-Strobe-Signal-Warning-Red-Yellow-Blue-12V-LED-Flashing-Light-/311220867593?var=610384235274&hash=item4876359209:m:mMEJO3XymgqKI7yNNPkonsw))

EDIT 4: It has been confirmed that a late 2015 kit from Oneida did in fact use the QS18VP6D sensor which is the PNP transistor output model.

[Dan Schmidt]

Excellent Robert - thank you. I have the same issue. In fact i was going to start searching for a sensor, but wasn't sure if my defect is in the sensor or something else. How did you determine it was the sensor?


Dan

[Ben Rivel]

Excellent Robert - thank you. I have the same issue. In fact i was going to start searching for a sensor, but wasn't sure if my defect is in the sensor or something else. How did you determine it was the sensor?


Dan
Not much else it could be really. There isnt much else in the way of circuitry in the whole kit. Also if you want to replace that same sensor check ebay, they are MUCH cheaper.

[Dan Schmidt]

My Oneida SmartPro unit has the sensor connecting into the control module (board) of the SmartPro. The switch & light combo then connects into the SmartPro via a CAT5 cable. Different architecture than most. Given the obvious quality issues Oneida has with these older sensors, it is likely the culprit. Just hate to buy one if its not.

It's just a proximity sensor, so must be a way to test it independently using power and a multimeter. I'll look at it closer and find a way.

331998

[Ben Rivel]

My Oneida SmartPro unit has the sensor connecting into the control module (board) of the SmartPro. The switch & light combo then connects into the SmartPro via a CAT5 cable. Different architecture than most. Given the obvious quality issues Oneida has with these older sensors, it is likely the culprit. Just hate to buy one if its not.

It's just a proximity sensor, so must be a way to test it independently using power and a multimeter. I'll look at it closer and find a way.

331998
Try to find the model number on the sensor and post back what it is. Ill help if I can.

[Jim Andrew]

I bought one of these a few years ago, and ran the drum over about 3 out of 5 times. Called Oneida, they said there was an adjustment screw and to turn it all the way up. Still ran the drum over, I gave up, took the senser out and cut a window in front of the hose to the drum. My cyclone is located in my store room. I hang a trouble light in front of the hose when I plane up lumber, and the light helps show as the hose fills up. It fills quickly, you have to pay attention or it will run over.

[Ben Rivel]

I bought one of these a few years ago, and ran the drum over about 3 out of 5 times. Called Oneida, they said there was an adjustment screw and to turn it all the way up. Still ran the drum over, I gave up, took the senser out and cut a window in front of the hose to the drum. My cyclone is located in my store room. I hang a trouble light in front of the hose when I plane up lumber, and the light helps show as the hose fills up. It fills quickly, you have to pay attention or it will run over.
Which version of the sensor did yours have? Was it cylindrical or rectangular?

[Matthew Henderson]

Here is a picture of my sensor, purchased Aug/Sept '15. Hope this helps. The numbers on top read: 1502C, insp208.
332013

[Ben Rivel]

Here is a picture of my sensor, purchased Aug/Sept '15. Hope this helps. The numbers on top read: 1502C, insp208.
332013
That is definitely the newer/current sensor. Sadly those numbers wont confirm what model it is though. The model number for these sensors is usually on the sides. Is there anything on the other side? Oneida may have removed it too. It might be just a sticker.

[Matthew Henderson]

The other side (far side) was not easy to get to... but here's what I found. "QS18VP6D", with a smaller "10-30VDC" underneath.

[Anthony Whitesell]

The other side (far side) was not easy to get to... but here's what I found. "QS18VP6D", with a smaller "10-30VDC" underneath.

Google is your friend.

http://www.bannerengineering.com/en-US/support/partref/61654

http://info.bannerengineering.com/cs/groups/public/documents/engdrawings/139709_pdf.pdf

Does this look about right, Matthew?

[Matthew Henderson]

Given the info you found, I would not hesitate to risk the $67 on this bet. Everything from the picture to the component specs all look inline with what I received from Oneida. On a related note, It looks like Oneida redesigned the way the sensor connects to the strobe. On my unit, there is no connector, it is hard wired in. I had to disassemble the strobe, cut the wires inside in order to mount the strobe on the outside of the closet... Looks like they received some good feedback and made a change, just a little too late for me.

[Steve Peterson]

ClearVue has a bin sensor as a complete kit for $250. I scan their forum and haven't heard anything bad thing about it. Nobody complains that their bin overflowed.

Steve

[Ben Rivel]

The other side (far side) was not easy to get to... but here's what I found. "QS18VP6D", with a smaller "10-30VDC" underneath.
Huh, well I was almost right. Looks like they are using the PNP version. Interesting.

[Brian Hood]

I wonder if this would work:
The S18SN6FF100 sensor (~30 ebay) driven by a TORK TRP sensor (~$10 ebay) which takes 100 to 300vac and converts it to 24vdc to drive the sensor and provides a relay, either using the 24vdc (drive a bright red LED, buzzer, etc.) or the supply voltage, or whatever else is available. $50 all in and a very fast build time.

Might have to build me one of these.




I have an Oneida Dust Sentry drum level sensor for my dust collector. Unfortunately, the infrared sensor failed. I called Oneida but they would not sell the infrared sensor, nor would they give a part number so I could get it myself. After some searching I found a part that works. It is a Banner S18SN6FF100 that cost me $90 from Banner Engineering. Their website is bannerengineering.com.

The S18SN6FF100 is a Fixed Field (4 inch) sensor with NPN output (150 mA).

Just wanted to pass this information along in case anyone has the same problem. You could also make your own drum level sensor with one of these (or similar) infrared sensors, a 24 volt DC power supply, and a LED flasher. The Banner site shows how to hook up the infrared sensor.

[Ben Rivel]

I wonder if this would work:
The S18SN6FF100 sensor (~30 ebay) driven by a TORK TRP sensor (~$10 ebay) which takes 100 to 300vac and converts it to 24vdc to drive the sensor and provides a relay, either using the 24vdc (drive a bright red LED, buzzer, etc.) or the supply voltage, or whatever else is available. $50 all in and a very fast build time.

Might have to build me one of these.
Can do it easier than that. I already linked to the LED strobe Oneida uses and you can use a 12V wall wart power supply and a simple/cheap solid state relay to control the LED strobe. Just have to make sure you wire it up correctly if youre going to use the PNP vs NPN version of the Banner QS18 series sensor.

The S18SN6FF100 sensor had issues and a people had problems with it. Using the newer sensor they now use would be better. Its the same cost on eBay.

[Ben Rivel]

Anyone out there who owns a newer/latest version of the Oneida dust bin level sensor want to open the box (where the LED strobe is mounted) and snap a pic so we can have a quick look inside? Not needed but it would be interesting to see what they did in there.

[Ken Andersen]

Ben, if you do go ahead and build a bin sensor, please post the details!

[Ben Rivel]

Ben, if you do go ahead and build a bin sensor, please post the details!
Will do. Going to be a while to get all the parts in though, some are coming from good ol china.

[Brian Hood]

Hi Ben,
do you understand the PNP vs NPN question? Because it is going right over my head and I want to add one to a build I am in the middle of, a current sensing relay that will switch the DC automatically with the TS. Because it already has a 24vdc power supply and a very bright red LED I may be able to simply add the Banner device to get the overfill feature as well.

[Ole Anderson]

Someone here used to build and sell an aftermarket bin sensor, anyone remember? Still available?

[Ben Rivel]

Hi Ben,
do you understand the PNP vs NPN question? Because it is going right over my head and I want to add one to a build I am in the middle of, a current sensing relay that will switch the DC automatically with the TS. Because it already has a 24vdc power supply and a very bright red LED I may be able to simply add the Banner device to get the overfill feature as well.
Give this a read, might help: LINK (https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/transistors/applications-i-switches)

[Matthew Henderson]

There are no electronics in the box. Only connections where power and the strobe and sensor connect to each other. I think there are 3 connections including ground. Power to sensor, Sensor output to strobe, ground.
332385

[Ben Rivel]

There are no electronics in the box. Only connections where power and the strobe and sensor connect to each other. I think there are 3 connections including ground. Power to sensor, Sensor output to strobe, ground.
332385
LOL Thanks for that! Thats too funny. The cheap chinese strobe they are using shows a current draw of 120mA, but the Banner sensor claims from its data sheet a max current draw of 100mA from its NPN or PNP output. Now I realize that its a strobe and only on for a very short duration, but thats still closer than I would have preferred if it were my design. However Im sure they cleared it with Banner and obviously its been working fine and the data sheet also says it does offer over current protection. Good to know. Its just a direct wire up with the strobe, sensor and AC transformer/wall wart. Too easy.

Interesting though, I only see what looks like three wires coming from the sensor, I dont have mine in front of me but I thought there was supposed to be four.

EDIT: Ah there is four, black is Normally Open (NO), white is Normally Closed (NC). They are just using the normally closed (black wire) and probably cut back/off/short the white wire which is why it isnt seen in the pic.

[Ben Rivel]

Welp, here ya go guys, nice and simple.

332394

Id recommend a wall wart of at least 200mA. Pretty common, you probably have an old one laying around from a network/internet router or some other electronic do-hicky that no longer works. Just make sure its 12V DC.

Regarding the sensor, this example uses the PNP version (QS18VP6D, the one Oneida currently uses) but you can also use the NPN version (I will be since thats what I found a good deal on, QS18VN6D) but the wiring will be different.

NPN Version (QS18VN6D):

332398

The strobe they are using is this one I believe: LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pcs-DC12V-Security-Alarm-Strobe-Signal-Safety-Warning-Flashing-LED-Light-L5GR/381466401877?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D35721%26meid%3Db1b56b64f6ed4a7f8c3f36a87199 0505%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D1418 38048377&autorefresh=true), if you use anything different either drive it with a relay (one which the contact driving part draws 100mA or less) or make sure whatever it is you use draws less than about 120mA.

[Robert Payne]

Someone here used to build and sell an aftermarket bin sensor, anyone remember? Still available?Ole, I make the bin sensor system that has been sold through the ClearVue Cyclones website since 2012. It was mentioned briefly earlier in this thread, but I cannot comment further per the forum standards.

[Ben Rivel]

Ole, I make the bin sensor system that has been sold through the ClearVue Cyclones website since 2012. It was mentioned briefly earlier in this thread, but I cannot comment further per the forum standards.
You make this one? LINK (http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/supporting-products/50-bin-sensor.html)

[Robert Payne]

Yes (can't just say "yes" due to 10-character rule!).

[Ben Rivel]

Yes (can't just say "yes" due to 10-character rule!).
Ha, yea that does get annoying sometimes. Well thats pretty cool. I do like that it monitors the build up going up the flex hose, seems like it would leave less possibilities for erroneous readings. Might adapt my build with a two part (transmitter and receiver) Banner sensor and try monitoring via the flex hose tube too. Wouldnt have to drill a hole in the top of the can lid then either. And I suppose I could add a solid state relay in the mix to cut power to the blower too, but Im not sure I like that idea seeing as how false trips could trigger it and I really dont want my blower being turned on and off anymore frequently than it has to.

Anyone out there opened up their Oneida power box and taken a look inside? Post a pic if you have. Otherwise Ill try and get to it when Im home and can have a look. Lets see what it might take to add the power kill control to the dust bin sensor.

[mreza Salav]

I have a home-made bin-full sensor that costs under $20 and works fine. All you need is a light sensor with a bit of delay (20-30 seconds), an LED light and I put them at the opposite side of the 6" clear flex-hose at the top of the bin. I have a red light outside my DC storage closet that turns on when the bin is full. Haven't had any problem in the last 5 years or so I have had it. The sensor/LED are at the ends of a U-shaped piece that is hinged and will lift up when I want to move the bin out.

332468332467

[Brian Hood]

Ben,
thanks for your help with the PNP thing. I went ahead and added the overfill sensor to my automatic (current sensing) DC controller I built today. DC turns on when the saw comes on and the sensor kills power to the blower if the barrel gets too full.
Cost $105 for the whole shebang and was a dead easy build. Now, all I need is a barrel!
332604
332605

[Dennis Yamamoto]

The other side (far side) was not easy to get to... but here's what I found. "QS18VP6D", with a smaller "10-30VDC" underneath.

I have the same problem with my Oneida dust bin sensor too. I called Oneida and they would only sell a whole new unit including strobe and power supply that I don't need.

Has anyone installed the Banner QS18VP6D? If so, where did you get it from? I see several on Ebay from China. Although I have traveled to China a number of times on business, I have never ordered on Ebay from China.

Thanks,

Dennis

[Ben Rivel]

I have the same problem with my Oneida dust bin sensor too. I called Oneida and they would only sell a whole new unit including strobe and power supply that I don't need.

Has anyone installed the Banner QS18VP6D? If so, where did you get it from? I see several on Ebay from China. Although I have traveled to China a number of times on business, I have never ordered on Ebay from China.

Thanks,

Dennis
Bought mine from some random seller with good feedback on eBay. It was brand new and I got it for I believe $35. Was from a US seller though. That being said Ive bought TONS of stuff from China via eBay. If the sellers reviews were good Ive never had a problem. And if you do have a problem eBay will give you your money back and more than likely you wont have to bother returning the product.

[Brian Backner]

Welp, here ya go guys, nice and simple.

332394

Id recommend a wall wart of at least 200mA. Pretty common, you probably have an old one laying around from a network/internet router or some other electronic do-hicky that no longer works. Just make sure its 12V DC.

Regarding the sensor, this example uses the PNP version (QS18VP6D, the one Oneida currently uses) but you can also use the NPN version (I will be since thats what I found a good deal on, QS18VN6D) but the wiring will be different.

NPN Version (QS18VN6D):

332398

The strobe they are using is this one I believe: LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pcs-DC12V-Security-Alarm-Strobe-Signal-Safety-Warning-Flashing-LED-Light-L5GR/381466401877?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D35721%26meid%3Db1b56b64f6ed4a7f8c3f36a87199 0505%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D1418 38048377&autorefresh=true), if you use anything different either drive it with a relay (one which the contact driving part draws 100mA or less) or make sure whatever it is you use draws less than about 120mA.

You could utilize that fourth lead from the optical sensor to activate a a cheap automotive 12vdc relay to activate, in turn, a 120vac coil power relay for your 240vac dust collector. When the bin is full, the sensor both activates the strobe light and automatically shuts off the DC. Probably not really necessary, but if someday you can't turn on your DC, a lighted strobe would at least let you know why (and that there wasn't some other problem). I was able to find 30A 4 pole SquareD relays on eBay for $25, so you could add this functionality for about $35 and some additional wire, etc.

Of course, that does mean you'll be working with line level voltage that can kill you or burn down your shop if you mess it up. So get help if you don't know what you're doing!

[Ben Rivel]

You could utilize that fourth lead from the optical sensor to activate a a cheap automotive 12vdc relay to activate, in turn, a 120vac coil power relay for your 240vac dust collector. When the bin is full, the sensor both activates the strobe light and automatically shuts off the DC. Probably not really necessary, but if someday you can't turn on your DC, a lighted strobe would at least let you know why (and that there wasn't some other problem). I was able to find 30A 4 pole SquareD relays on eBay for $25, so you could add this functionality for about $35 and some additional wire, etc.

Of course, that does mean you'll be working with line level voltage that can kill you or burn down your shop if you mess it up. So get help if you don't know what you're doing!
A much safer and simpler and cheaper route would be to just wire the NO output of the sensor to the off button (assuming its also a NO switch) on a spare dust collector wireless remote.

[Brian Backner]

A much safer and simpler and cheaper route would be to just wire the NO output of the sensor to the off button on a spare dust collector wireless remote.

True. If you have a wireless remote for your DC. I don't, but I do have a box full of various relays ......

[Ben Rivel]

True. If you have a wireless remote for your DC. I don't, but I do have a box full of various relays ......
Got it. Gotta work with what ya got!

[Ken Andersen]

Welp, here ya go guys, nice and simple.

332394

Id recommend a wall wart of at least 200mA. Pretty common, you probably have an old one laying around from a network/internet router or some other electronic do-hicky that no longer works. Just make sure its 12V DC.

Regarding the sensor, this example uses the PNP version (QS18VP6D, the one Oneida currently uses) but you can also use the NPN version (I will be since thats what I found a good deal on, QS18VN6D) but the wiring will be different.

NPN Version (QS18VN6D):

332398

The strobe they are using is this one I believe: LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pcs-DC12V-Security-Alarm-Strobe-Signal-Safety-Warning-Flashing-LED-Light-L5GR/381466401877?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D35721%26meid%3Db1b56b64f6ed4a7f8c3f36a87199 0505%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D1418 38048377&autorefresh=true), if you use anything different either drive it with a relay (one which the contact driving part draws 100mA or less) or make sure whatever it is you use draws less than about 120mA.
Ben,

I have both the strobe you linked and a QS18VN6D sensor on order. Now I'm wondering about supplying power to them. My DC is 230v, and I'd like to source power from the the magnetic starter so the drum sensor is only on when the DC is running. Thus, to facilitate the wiring into the mag starter I need a 230v to 12v dc adapter **with cord** (not a wall wart). The lowest power of this type I've seen is 12v 1000ma output, wheras the strobe only requires 120ma. Is that an issue? Any other specs that I need to look for?

[Ben Rivel]

Ben,

I have both the strobe you linked and a QS18VN6D sensor on order. Now I'm wondering about supplying power to them. My DC is 230v, and I'd like to source power from the the magnetic starter so the drum sensor is only on when the DC is running. Thus, to facilitate the wiring into the mag starter I need a 230v to 12v dc adapter **with cord** (not a wall wart). The lowest power of this type I've seen is 12v 1000ma output, wheras the strobe only requires 120ma. Is that an issue? Any other specs that I need to look for?
Im amazed you found that unit. I hadnt tried looking for a 220V to 12v power supply as I didnt want my sensor to be turned on and off every time with the dust collector. Since the sensor only draws 25mA (the amount of on small LED like the kind that is probably on right now on your flat panel TV) its energy usage is negligible. That being said, as long as the power supply you found outputs 12 volts DC it doesnt matter how much its max current output is as long as its more than the system needs. In this case the system needs at the least 145mA (25mA for the sensor and 120mA for the strobe). The remaining overhead in the 1000mA (or 1A) in the power supply you found will just be there unused and might be nice to have around for later in case you want to power something else off of that same power supply, like maybe a brighter light, led strip, or perhaps a buzzer.

Post a link to the powersupply you found. Others might find it useful. As soon as I get a chance to assembly my setup I was planning on creating a separate thread on this build as well as one for the Oneida filter efficiency gauge I figured out the parts for.

[Ken Andersen]

Im amazed you found that unit. I hadnt tried looking for a 220V to 12v power supply as I didnt want my sensor to be turned on and off every time with the dust collector. Since the sensor only draws 25mA (the amount of on small LED like the kind that is probably on right now on your flat panel TV) its energy usage is negligible. That being said, as long as the power supply you found outputs 12 volts DC it doesnt matter how much its max current output is as long as its more than the system needs. In this case the system needs at the least 145mA (25mA for the sensor and 120mA for the strobe). The remaining overhead in the 1000mA (or 1A) in the power supply you found will just be there unused and might be nice to have around for later in case you want to power something else off of that same power supply, like maybe a brighter light, led strip, or perhaps a buzzer.

Post a link to the powersupply you found. Others might find it useful. As soon as I get a chance to assembly my setup I was planning on creating a separate thread on this build as well as one for the Oneida filter efficiency gauge I figured out the parts for.

Ben,

Here's one:

http://www.banggood.com/110V-240V-to-DC-12V-1A-12W-Power-Supply-for-CCTV-Security-Surveillance-Camera-etc-p-981109.html?currency=CAD&utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=all&utm_campaign=electronics-CA

I'm curious why you prefer to have your sensor on even when the DC is not. My own practice is to unplug everything before I leave the shop so having a wall wart
for the dust sensor is one more thing to plug in/off.

[Ben Rivel]

Ben,

Here's one:

http://www.banggood.com/110V-240V-to-DC-12V-1A-12W-Power-Supply-for-CCTV-Security-Surveillance-Camera-etc-p-981109.html?currency=CAD&utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=all&utm_campaign=electronics-CA

I'm curious why you prefer to have your sensor on even when the DC is not. My own practice is to unplug everything before I leave the shop so having a wall wart
for the dust sensor is one more thing to plug in/off.
Oh yea now I see what power supplies you were thinking of using. I dont think you can use those kinds because they are designed to be used in a setup similar to our 110V outlets where there is a hot, neutral and ground but in other parts of the world. Where as our 220V circuits are two hots and a ground with no return path through a neutral. Motors wired for 220V are designed to utilize and combine the two separate 110V circuits internally. Now Im not 100% sure on that as I am much more of a low voltage electronics guy so you should do some research on that before you attempt to go that route.

That said if you can not use that type of power supply and power the bin sensor setup off your dust collectors power you will still have to power on and off the bin sensor separately.

To answer your question regarding turning it on and off or leaving it on all the time, no real reason I guess other than thats the way anyone who purchased the kit from Oneida would run it and as I mentioned before since its power usage is so small Id rather just not be bothered with remembering to turn it on and off separately as you are trying to avoid too. Perhaps Ill wire it to my shop lights or something so that it can be powered on and off when Im in the shop/garage and the lights are on. ? Not sure, Ill have to think about it.

[Ben Rivel]

Now here is an interesting idea: If you have an Oneida dust collector, and add the wireless remote receiver to it, they wire in the receiver before it ships and it is inside the on/off switch power control box. That means that there must be a low DC voltage somewhere in there to power that tiny receiver. Unless its built into the tiny receiver box they install in there, though I doubt that. Id have to go messing around in there to figure out how much voltage and current is available from the power supply they are feeding that RF receiver with, but yea it might be possible to power the bin sensor system from that...

[Brian Hood]

Now here is an interesting idea: If you have an Oneida dust collector, and add the wireless remote receiver to it, they wire in the receiver before it ships and it is inside the on/off switch power control box. That means that there must be a low DC voltage somewhere in there to power that tiny receiver. Unless its built into the tiny receiver box they install in there, though I doubt that. Id have to go messing around in there to figure out how much voltage and current is available from the power supply they are feeding that RF receiver with, but yea it might be possible to power the bin sensor system from that...

Ben,
fter reading your posts I built a couple of level sensors from the information you provided. As I posted upthread I'm using the Tork TRP power supply/relay which provides 24vdc 150mA whatever voltage (120 to 277vac) you give it, so it's just hooked into the motor control, no wall wart needed. In one case I'm also using the 20amp 1hp rated relay to turn the DC on and off with a current sensing relay, and the other I'm just using the power supply and not the relay. For $9 per unit the Tork is a pretty good deal.
In the simple version where I'm not controlling the DC motor there is just three components; the Tork TRP, a Banner S18P6D sensor, and a buzzer. The srobe light seemed a bit clunky and the buzzer works well. The complicated version I built just adds the current sensing relay, and in that case the relay shuts oof the DC motor when the sensor sees the container getting full.
I like it very much.

[Ben Rivel]

Ben,
fter reading your posts I built a couple of level sensors from the information you provided. As I posted upthread I'm using the Tork TRP power supply/relay which provides 24vdc 150mA whatever voltage (120 to 277vac) you give it, so it's just hooked into the motor control, no wall wart needed. In one case I'm also using the 20amp 1hp rated relay to turn the DC on and off with a current sensing relay, and the other I'm just using the power supply and not the relay. For $9 per unit the Tork is a pretty good deal.
In the simple version where I'm not controlling the DC motor there is just three components; the Tork TRP, a Banner S18P6D sensor, and a buzzer. The srobe light seemed a bit clunky and the buzzer works well. The complicated version I built just adds the current sensing relay, and in that case the relay shuts oof the DC motor when the sensor sees the container getting full.
I like it very much.
Nice. As I mentioned before to another who offered there solution I know there are tons of ways to do this, I was merely trying to document how Oneida's system worked. Theirs is by no means the best or even feature packed, just A way.

That said I like your idea. Is this the supply/relay you are using: Tork TRP-24 LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Tork-TRP-D-Intelligent-Transformer-Relay-20-Amp-Power-Pack-120-277-VAC-/141930714435?hash=item210bbad543:g:xqEAAOSwLVZVrof k)? I may pick one of those up and play with that too.

[Ken Andersen]

Now here is an interesting idea: If you have an Oneida dust collector, and add the wireless remote receiver to it, they wire in the receiver before it ships and it is inside the on/off switch power control box. That means that there must be a low DC voltage somewhere in there to power that tiny receiver. Unless its built into the tiny receiver box they install in there, though I doubt that. Id have to go messing around in there to figure out how much voltage and current is available from the power supply they are feeding that RF receiver with, but yea it might be possible to power the bin sensor system from that...

Ben,

I do indeed have the Oneida (2.5hp Super Dust Gorilla) with the remote, so I'll look into that. Thanks for the idea.

[Ben Rivel]

Ben,

I do indeed have the Oneida (2.5hp Super Dust Gorilla) with the remote, so I'll look into that. Thanks for the idea.
Its an interesting idea, but Im kinda thinking now it might not work as Im guessing the supply voltage to that RF receiver is probably now 10-30Vdc which is what the Banner QS18VN6D wants. Plus it would have to be 12Vdc in order to power the strobe. If I had to guess Id say it would be a 5Vdc supply going into that RF receiver.

[Ben Rivel]

Hey guys, going to move further discussion to a dedicated thread I threw together quickly. Ill refine it later when I get time. You can find it here: LINK (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?242096-Building-Your-Own-And-Improving-Upon-The-Oneida-Dust-Bin-Sensor)

We have gotten this one way off topic.

Feel free to move your designs and ideas into that thread so that hopefully we can get a proper centralized thread of information on the topic.

[Ben Rivel]

Also created the Oneida Filter Efficiency Gauge thread here: LINK (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?242098-Building-Your-Own-Oneida-Realtime-Filter-Efficiency-Gauge&p=2543898#post2543898)

[Brian Hood]

Nice. As I mentioned before to another who offered there solution I know there are tons of ways to do this, I was merely trying to document how Oneida's system worked. Theirs is by no means the best or even feature packed, just A way.

That said I like your idea. Is this the supply/relay you are using: Tork TRP-24 LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Tork-TRP-D-Intelligent-Transformer-Relay-20-Amp-Power-Pack-120-277-VAC-/141930714435?hash=item210bbad543:g:xqEAAOSwLVZVrof k)? I may pick one of those up and play with that too.

That is the exact device.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Ben,
thanks for your help with the PNP thing. I went ahead and added the overfill sensor to my automatic (current sensing) DC controller I built today. DC turns on when the saw comes on and the sensor kills power to the blower if the barrel gets too full.
Cost $105 for the whole shebang and was a dead easy build. Now, all I need is a barrel!
332604
332605Did you use plans from Aug 2000 FWW? I added a delay on break timer to let DC run after machine turns off? Runs about 10 seconds to clear the pipes.

[Ben Rivel]

Did you use plans from Aug 2000 FWW? I added a delay on break timer to let DC run after machine turns off? Runs about 10 seconds to clear the pipes.
Ill have to check that issue out.

[Dave huber]

Ben/others,

This thread is timely for me. Thanks for sharing your work on this.

I intend to build two sensors, since I have two bins to worry about.
I see you have confirmed that the commercial version uses QS18VP6D, which is readily available.

However, I notice it has a 450mm range. I hate to ask a dumb question, but is there a way to adjust the sensitivity or distance within that range?

Can you advise about the effective range of the sensor in this application where sawdust triggers this sensor?

Thanks!

Dave

[Dave huber]

Duh.
google is my friend indeed.
looks like there is an adjustment on the sensor.
i should have noticed that.
dave

[Ben Rivel]

Yep, you answered your own question :)

Also Ive moved this topic to a new thread: LINK (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?242096-Building-Your-Own-And-Improving-Upon-The-Oneida-Dust-Bin-Level-Sensor)

[Dennis Yamamoto]

Ben/others,

This thread is timely for me. Thanks for sharing your work on this.

I intend to build two sensors, since I have two bins to worry about.
I see you have confirmed that the commercial version uses QS18VP6D, which is readily available.

However, I notice it has a 450mm range. I hate to ask a dumb question, but is there a way to adjust the sensitivity or distance within that range?

Can you advise about the effective range of the sensor in this application where sawdust triggers this sensor?

Thanks!

Dave

I just installed the sensor, and I believe the detection range is up to 18 inches. It can be adjusted to much less than 18 inches (450 mm), but I set mine to around 5-6 inches. I didn't choose something close to zero in case I didn't see the LED warning light immediately.

[Tim Brun]

Sorry for the super late response. The part that replaced the Oneida bin sensor was a Banner S18SN6ff100. It works great compared to the previous Oneida supplied ones that I used. Has anyone else had to replace the remote control receiver inside the magnetic switch. I have a 5hp single phase gorilla and will be on my 3rd remote sensor. Any one know where to get the part for it besides from Oneida?