Old iron, best iron? (24" bandsaw)

[Dennis Aspö]

Just bought this for 200 euros. 24" cast iron bandsaw:

http://i.imgur.com/ullKXpk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/RPnNaIu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0widhMm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hSPsFXZ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2vQtZefl.jpg

3-phase motor of unknown power. I wonder if I will need Y-D start, or if it has it already. It's made in sweden most likely, there where no identifying marks the seller (a boat building company that renewed its machine park) could find. But I will have a lookaround when it arrives. I have shown it to someone who said it is likely a Göteneds and is probably worth 600 euros minimum and if I did not buy it he would on the spot.

It is 2100mm tall, 1100mm wide, table is 700x700mm.

The alternative saw was a small 1200w scheppach for 300 euros, not a hard choice! :D

[David Kumm]

1.5-2.5 kw motor? If no motor tag you can check the starter and get an idea based on the settings for the overloads. Dave

[Dennis Aspö]

Based on the size I think you might be right, though I'd aim towards the higher side of that, not sure a 1.5kw motor would work that well with a heavy beast like this? I have a 4kw motor hooked up to a small 8" emco jointer (in my mind a hilarious setup) and that motor looks larger to me, in size this looks like the one in my table saw which is a 2.5kw motor.

[Frank Drew]

When this is up and running you might have a terrific tool; I think 24" is a perfect size for a small-medium size shop.

As for motor size, my 1940s 18" Oliver saw had a 1/2 h.p. polyphase induction motor and power was never a problem, but I rarely used it for re-sawing.

[Dennis Aspö]

I'm actually just a hobbyist, but I keep finding industrial quality machines at prices that beat modern hobbyist stuff :D

[Matt Day]

Is this the same bandsaw you posted about the flanged wheels?

[Thomas Hotchkin]

$ 251.04 US Dollars you SUCK

You have to love wood guides. Is the lower wheel belt driven?

[David Kumm]

old direct drive saws were typically 1-3 hp up to the 30" size. Because they were 6-8 pole low rpm motors they had large frames and lots of torque. Here in the US, 24" was a rare size for cast iron bandsaws. 30" were much more common and usually had 3 hp 600 or 900 rpm motors. That motor looks smaller than my 1 hp Yates. Dave

[Dennis Aspö]

Is this the same bandsaw you posted about the flanged wheels?

No that was another saw I came across for about half this price. I forwarded the tip to a friend who was also interested in a bandsaw and much, much better than me at working with old machines. He went and took a look at it and is likely gonna buy and restore it. He says he'll rebuild it and add the tilt capability, if it's needed, now that he thought about it he had worked with a similar machine in school. It tracks nicely when the wheels are not worn but when it accumulates wear it starts jumping off and in that case it'll be a more serious rebuild.

And Thomas Hotchkin it's direct drive, which was one of the things that make us believe the brand is a Göteneds as they came like that. The motor is probably not original and since it was used in an industrial settings they might have had big enough fuses to direct start even large motors. I can direct start a 4kw 3-phase motor no problem at home. Not sure what this'll turn out to be, or if it has Y-D starting or similar. So it might not run as it is at home, or it might, bit of a chance, but it'll be worth it even if I have to do some extra work.

[David Kumm]

I seldom see a wye delta motor or starter on motors less than 7.5 hp ( 5.5 kw ) but I agree it doesn't look original. Must have a special shaft if replaced. Direct drive motors were usually large frame not only due to rpm but to allowing for bigger bearings. Lots of stress on the shaft in comparison to belt drive. Would be interesting to find out how the original motor was spec'd. If the motor itself is wye delta you should be able to tell by the number of leads or the starter. Dave

[Dennis Aspö]

I am thinking a conversion to belt drive might be in the books if a motor replacement is required myself. I think though that this motor from the looks of it, is around 2kw

[David Kumm]

I am thinking a conversion to belt drive might be in the books if a motor replacement is required myself. I think though that this motor from the looks of it, is around 2kw

If the motor is shot but correct, have it rewound. Better option. Dave

[Rod Sheridan]

If the motor is shot but correct, have it rewound. Better option. Dave

Absolutely, don't convert to belt drive.

If you have starting problems ( doubtful) you can add an inepensive VFD to take care of that, and gain blade braking at the same time...........Rod.

[David Kumm]

Absolutely, don't convert to belt drive.

If you have starting problems ( doubtful) you can add an inepensive VFD to take care of that, and gain blade braking at the same time...........Rod.

If you go the vfd route, get an extra brake resistor installed. Bandsaws are hard to stop so the vfd needs help. Dave

[Dennis Aspö]

I was thinking the advantage of a belt drive conversion would have been that any old motor could have been used, and less stressfull on the bearings too.

But if the motor is shot, rewinding is more expensive than a brand new motor, at least it is here. I had a burned out 2.2kw 3-phase motor and the only thing worth doing with it was saving the bearings and chucking the thing into the recycling bin.

[Dennis Aspö]

Truck called, they left the saw outside the garage, it's apparently a little bit taller than the garage door... Now it's up to me to get it in. Yikes....

Also been reading up on the pros and cons of direct drive motors and it seems to me a direct drive motor is better (runs quieter and smoother, less vibration), if you got 3ph power so it can spin up that heavy wheel from a standstil better. So I'm keeping it like that even if it needs a new motor.

[Dennis Aspö]

Well I am not getting this inside myself... Called for help and on saturday I should have it inside.

[Jim Matthews]

Noudattaen perinne, olet surkea.

When you bring the saw into the garage,
remove the cast iron table, if you can.

Rather than wrestle with something so large,
and risk dropping it - may I recommend you remove the section of
your garage door that is in the way.

301043

[Dennis Aspö]

I have removed the upper wheel and cast iron table last night infact, so it wil fit inside the garage door now (it is a door that slides up). But it is still too heavy and I am alone.

I think I might have been able to roll them off using the same principle as your picture shows, it was my original plan. If the guy who left the saw had oriented it straight towards the door, now I'd have to roll it off the pallet and then turn it, or turn the pallet, I cannot do these things alone.

They will come on saturday morning and lift the saw inside the door using a tractor forklift, then we can roll it off using round logs as your picture shows and place it at its final destination.

The saw is sitting outside right now wrapped in a tarp.

---

I also removed the covers that encapsulated the wheels and blades, they are made from wood and are painted metallic green. I think they are an addition after the saw was built, due to safety rgulations, this saw is likely old enough that it was made when those things where not required. I found the company that used to make this saw and they stopped making them in 1960, so this saw is no younger than 54 years old, but likely a bit older.

When I took off the wheel, I was told it'd be easier to remove the whole housing with bearings and all than remove the wheel itself but I screwed up and I removed the shaft with bearings, except it wouldn't come out since the bearing is held captive on the other side, So I had to put it back but couldn't get it back in, the bearing on the far side is supposed to fit into this "holder" which also goes up and down via a screw, this allows you to tilt the blade. On the plus side the bearings look to be in top notch condition.

I took the wheel itself off instead using one of those 3-pronged pulling things. Still need to figure out how to get the shaft and bearings back in later though.

The table was easy to remove, just 4 bolts, but it's heavy as heck! Also found the saw did have a cast iron fence, I had not seen it in the pictures but that's a nice thing to have, don't have to make one now.

I had no time for pictures, perhaps on sunday or saturday.

[Dennis Aspö]

Got the machine inside today and I took some initial pictures. I am having problems getting the shaft and bearings back into the "holder" that keeps it in place and also tilts the whole mechanism. I can't get it back in, tried banging on it and jiggling the holder up and down while doing so, I even tried using the plate on the other side and screwing it in but that didn't work either. I just don't know how to get this thing back in and I am afraid of damaging it.

side view
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7580/15904161065_3c3a622bb8_c.jpg

The "holder" into which the bearing needs to be pressed:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8638/15903518752_836d3209f0_c.jpg

I dunno if I need to try and remove the whole thing and take it to a machine shop or something.

Here's the main part of it where it sits in my shop now, I don't think it'll be moving in the first place. Took a tractor with forklift and 3 people to move it inside, and thats after the top wheel and table came off.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7462/15904162975_ed178fe63b_c.jpg

Blade guides, rather primitive but if they work who cares. Seems to be a brass piece on one side and a wood piece on the other, one big bearing at the back.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7509/15903522892_250aa5d0d6_c.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8589/15716868160_ecabe92b18_b.jpg

[Jim Matthews]

Is it possible to suspend the wheel, from above?

The tolerance on the bearing land are "tight"
there's little room for alignment errors.

If you're muscling around something so heavy as a 24" cast iron
wheel and sliding it onto a shaft that small - remind me never to
challenge you to arm wrestling.

If there is a load bearing beam in your garage, or a pair of taller ladders handy
you could sling the wheel to take the load while you get it back on.

Best of luck
(* you still suck - $200? *)

[Dennis Aspö]

The wheel is not that heavy, it's a spoked wheel like the bottom one so not a lot of material, 10-15kg at most I think. But no that wheel is on the ground and won't be a problem to put back on again later I believe, a bolt is screwed into the center of the shaft, large washer and nut are put on before and by screwing on the nut it'll push it the wheel back on to the shaft, same principle as with a lot of electric motor shafts.

The wheel itself has no bearings, the shaft itself turns and has two large bearings. It's getting those bearings back into the "holder" again that is giving me grief.

And yes 200, plus the shipping and the cost of paying the guy with the tractor, so 280 total or so, so far.

[Jim Matthews]

Gotcha.

That's above my paygrade.
Any machinist nearby to query?

Stop whinging about the outrageous cost.
Most of us hate you enough, already.

It will probably resaw straight the first time, too.
Some guys have all the luck.

Even in Finland.

[Dennis Aspö]

Sorry I thought you where asking about that. Anyway I got the upper wheel shaft assembly reassembled today, a matter of proper alignment was all it was. Then I got the upper wheel back on, which was real easy, just tapped it back on with a rubber mallet. There's some sideways wobble on the upper wheel too. I'm not sure what the reason is or what can be done about it, or if it's even a big deal?

Here it is with the wheel back on:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/15914256391_62b07c7f79_b.jpg

And here's the blade, I think it's a write off. While I am pretty sure the motor is not the original anymore, I think this might have been delivered with the saw from the factory :p
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7513/15728921040_30eeb28a09_b.jpg

Closeup of the blade guide:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7545/15728923000_99229cc868_b.jpg

Lower blade guide:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7503/15890430156_f0b9c4a65f_b.jpg

Upper wheel closeup:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7497/15914264261_f813af4565_b.jpg

Closeup of the upper tire, it appears to be full of shavings, there was also a track in the middle which I think where made from the rusty teeth on this blade. I tried sanding it down and then recrowning but it's slow going, this was after I had sanded and turned the wheel by hand for some time.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7544/15296575073_59a6051fe6_b.jpg

I then decided to reassemble the table, it's insanely heavy but I got it up, also the fence mounted:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7504/15728933370_debf8efccb_b.jpg

Pretty darn rusty but half an hour later and lots of elbow grease it looks like this:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7464/15728935380_ccbb12c8d9_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7477/15915585152_f0c91ac2eb_b.jpg

Not perfect but good enough for half an hours work.

What I am going to try and do is keep on with my recrowning attempts and see if the blade will track any better, right now the blade goes back and forth when I spin the wheels. I am not sure what role the wobbling wheels have in this.

[Brian Kincaid]

Dennis, you should order a new blade or two. It might be the blade weld causing the blade to go back and forth.

-Brian

[Dennis Aspö]

Yes I ordered a new 1/2" 3TPI blade from Tuff Saws in the UK, I wasn't sure what I needed or of the exact size. But that combo is apparently the best all-purpose blade based on what I've read. I'll probably acquire more blades later but this will do for now.

Using the formula I found here I was able to determine I needed around a blade around 175" long:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tools/power/figuring-bandsaw-blade-length/

Instead of measuring at the middle point though I measured at both minimum and maximum tension to get the shortest and longest blades I could use, and got something near the middle of the two values.

[Dennis Aspö]

Apparently the brake on the saw has a high chance of being made from asbestos, any idea how I should proceed? I took the whole lever off and taped up the part with the pad in a plastic bag. I wonder if I can just hand it in to someone who can replace it with a new brake pad. I guess I should wipe down the saw too with a rag & dishwater.

I had a guy over who looked at the saw and who is very good at these old machines and he thought the wobble was a fart in space, to paraphrase. In his opinion lots of these old industrial saws are like that and it's mainly americans on youtube with their small and lightweight 14" bandsaws who need to be that anal about a little wobble. Test running the motor showed that the saw did not vibrate any, exceptionally quiet in my opinon. So we'll see how it behaves when my new blade gets here.

[Brian Kincaid]

Dennis,
I don't have any ideas about the brake, but can you add some clarification on the blade going 'back and forth'
From the perspective of where you feed wood to blade is it wobbling 'side to side' or 'to and away' Also how dramatic is the wobble, a kerf width or less?

I have diagnosed a few of these before, since you noticed it I hardly think it to be a 'fart in space'.
Some are tire issues, others are blade weld, others are kinked blade, etc.

-Brian

[Dennis Aspö]

It is side to side runout now that I believe I found the proper english terminology, I have ordered a dial indicator so I can see how much it is.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Dennis, you can likely have a car brake shop look at relining the brake, or ignore it which is what I'd do personally. They likely can, or can ship it somewhere.

[Phil Thien]

Side to side would indicate one or more of your wheels is slightly out of round. Could be the wear of the wires, too. Could also be a king in the band you're using for testing, if that is where you're noticing it. I've used enormous cast iron bandsaws and there was no side to side movement in the blade, so I don't really agree with your friend that it is normal.

But your saw apparently has rubber tires. So if the error is smaller than the thickness of the tires, I'd think it would be corrected if the tires were replaced and the wheels trued.

[Dennis Aspö]

No side to side movement in the blade is not normal, he meant side to side movement of the wheels themselves, as long as it doesn't affect tracking of the blade or cause vibrations it's not a big deal and according to him quite normal.

To clarify I can detect a wobble side to side in the wheels themselves, it's visible when it goes slowly, I cannot say for certain how much or if it's the tire or wheel itself, think its the wheel though. Getting a dial indicator to test how much, I plan to test the arbor itself too if that is it.

The blade also goes back and forth, but this can be due to it simply being old and worn out (it also wore a track into the crowning which can throw things of, so I need to recrown the wheels too, lots of rubber to take from though), it's really a piece of junk IMO. Good enough for practicing folding and thats about it.

[Dennis Aspö]

Well I got my blade today and I was finally able to run the saw properly. Unfortunately it wasn't as easy as all that. Still side to side movement with the blade but greatly reduced, though I was able to adjust the upper wheel tilt until I wasn't able to see any side to side movement of the blade near the table. Still the amount of vibration was unacceptable. So next step must wait until I get my dial indicator so I can document the runout and also remove the upper wheel and check the axle itself for runout. Might be new bearings are required, or perhaps the upper wheel can be shimmed or adjusted somehow.

[Phil Thien]

I still suspect your upper wheel is out of round due to uneven tire wear. I'm interested in what you find, though.

[Dennis Aspö]

I hope very much you are right. I found this video on how to true the wheel and it looks like something I could try and build:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jO-NsK-rwjc

[Jim Matthews]

Once the new blade is installed, if it tracks straight under load - it's ready to go.

Once the wheel guards are back on, you likely won't notice.
That's one purty old lady you brought home.

She'll still know how to dance, even if it takes her awhile to warm up.
* you still suck *

[Dennis Aspö]

I can't live with the amount of vibration it puts out currently even if the blade tracks well atm. Hoping its just the tires, spherical ball bearings like these can be expensive to replace I hear.

Also have the wheel guards on when I did this, I mounted those before I dared run the motor with blade on.

[Dennis Aspö]

Got my dial indicator and tested it, .2mm or 7-8 thousands of an inch runout on the shaft, it is less further in which means it's bent. So I guess that is the most likely reason for the vibration.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7466/16030594185_e0193591f8_c.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8613/15410963173_04059c8ee7_c.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7563/16028656851_ab2d5487db_c.jpg

[David Kumm]

Have you seen the video on youtube about straightening a bent shaft using heat? Dave

[Dennis Aspö]

Haven't seen it no. I was told it was "good news" if the shaft was the problem, expecting more details on why from the guy who said it, assumed it meant an easy fix.

[Phil Thien]

Did you check the bottom shaft?

Also, how about checking at the rim of the wheel while mounted on the shaft. If the wheel is round, your measurements at the wheel should approximate the shaft.

[Dennis Aspö]

Well I already took the shaft apart and ordered new bearings, it was pretty bad looking, the front bearing was also in quite bad shape. I'm taking the shaft to a machinist so they can see if it's true or not, and perhaps having a new one made is best. It might have been repaired before given the heat discoloration.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7490/15852456027_0b1ebd0df0_b.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7561/15869744568_9165f46404_b.jpg

The housing for the shaft on this saw doesn't tilt, instead it uses two self-aligning ball bearings, and the rear part of the shaft is raised via a collar that the other bearing goes into, the collar is prevented from moving sideways thanks to the lid which fits into a cutout in the collar, so it can only move up and down. This is apparently not a common setup.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8575/15420348234_36155377c1_b.jpg

[Peter Kelly]

Göteneds Maskiner built metalworking tools no? I seem to remember using one in the machine shop at school in Sweden.

I wonder if the replacement motor was to increase the rpms for woodworking.

[Dennis Aspö]

I believe they still do, also woodworking tools, under another name now that I forgot, Cidan machinery perhaps. I had a guy over who is something of a specialist in old woodworking machines, esp. swedish made ones, he mentioned the same thing but was pretty sure about it being built for woodworking.

We're only pretty sure that it is a Göteneds, given the complete lack of identification it's a mystery saw.

[Dennis Aspö]

New shaft arrived yesterday, it wasn't that costly IMO, machinist said 60-70 bucks and he'd send me the bill, not bad for a whole new part but I've never had to do anything like this before.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7486/15670930784_104e2493eb_b.jpg

Reassembly was a breeze, everything just fitted back real easily, it was a hundred times worse taking this apart. Vibrations are now much reduced and the saw blade tracks perfectly and I can't see any side to side movement of the upper wheel anymore. But there's still residual vibrations. But maybe the upper wheel can now be ruled out, the lower wheel seems to have some side to side movement too, so perhaps the motor needs new bearings as well.

[Phil Thien]

Excellent work so far. Having come this far, replacing the motor bearings seems like an obvious next move.

[Keith Hankins]

Some fine tool porn there!

[Steve Rozmiarek]

How do those bearings hold grease? Is there a seal assembly outside of them?

[Dennis Aspö]

I just squirted grease into them and closed up the housing on both sides, that seals them from the outside. I think I need to add more grease after this first application.

[David Kumm]

I just squirted grease into them and closed up the housing on both sides, that seals them from the outside. I think I need to add more grease after this first application.

Grease should be about 1/3 full. Bearings heat up from too much grease and I've seen more with too much than too little. Dave

[Dennis Aspö]

Hard to say I just used a little syringe like the one we used to feed the cat medicine with. Infact it was that one.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I just squirted grease into them and closed up the housing on both sides, that seals them from the outside. I think I need to add more grease after this first application.

Yeah, I asked a dumb question. You had good pics earlier in the thread, I should have looked better.

[Dennis Aspö]

A small update still, I balanced the upper wheel as it had a heavy spot, seems to be about 15-20 grams or so. Used stick on wheel weights but they got thrown off (gave me a good scare but they where safely ejected out of the way) despite putting them on the inside. I used some strong neodymium magnets instead and they seem to hold better, so that reduced vibration a tiniest bit still. I am still failing the coin test, barely. I think a better way to balance the wheels might be to do what Matthias Wandel did here and used a marble, that way I should be able to get it even more balanced.

Also to what extent can the tires add to vibrations and balancing issues? There are some gouges and bits missing on the outer edges of both tires, further in it looks better but I think still in need of some work.

The tilt function of the table is quite primitive by the way, have to reach in with a wrench and loosen a nut to move the trunnions, and no matter how hard I try to close it, the table can be rocked because the trunnions seem to be able to move a bit, I am not sure if I need to take it apart and see if there's something up with the trunnions. I added a larger washer on the nut to spread the force out more. Another annoyance is getting it to 90 degrees, use a square and keep on tapping, then tighten and then it moves when I do that, argh. Don't think I'll be tilting it a lot.

[Dennis Aspö]

Did some resawing with the saw using a 1/2" 3tpi blade, once I adjusted the guides I got no sideways drift, still didn't come out entirely square though, I think it's my table as the adjustment on it is atrocious and it moves a little when tightening it down. Or perhaps it's the lower guides being quite crappy, but a light pass through the planer fixed that and I've already turned the boards into a tool drawer.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7358/15798676114_a28d96619c_b.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8603/16421161035_655e7f884a_b.jpg


Also made a new insert that takes yet another insert, the sole reason being I want to be able to make square, not round inserts, got the idea from Matthias Wandels saw build, I was going to make that for the longest time until I found this one.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8566/16211232847_9651ceacde_b.jpg

Measured the resaw capacity and it's 13", the blade guard over the top wheel steels another 3" however so if not for that I'd have 16" of resaw capacity.

[Dennis Aspö]

Another update, after reading the thread on coplanar wheels and seeing how it could lead to vibrations it made me curious...

I looked into the coplanar-ness of my wheels today and they did not seem to be coplanar at all but eventually I figured it that they where actually pretty close, but the lower wheel was not square for some reason. Using a spirit level and setting the upper wheels tilt to the very center leveled it cleanly so the whole saw and mount seems level to the floor.

I took a look at the homemade motor mount and found two washers lifting up the back end of the motor, I figured these where there as shims for just this purpose. But I cannot figure out why. I did remove them and the lower wheel is now square when checking with a spirit level too. I can't say it made any difference in reducing the remaining vibrations, perhaps a little, I am not sure... It did change the tracking of the blade on the lower wheel and made it go a bit forward of center, before it was pretty far back, which I didn't like too much.

So a slight improvement in my opinion, but why the mechanic who refitted the saw with the new motor did it like that I can't understand....

[Jim Wheeler]

Another update, after reading the thread on coplanar wheels and seeing how it could lead to vibrations it made me curious...

I looked into the coplanar-ness of my wheels today and they did not seem to be coplanar at all but eventually I figured it that they where actually pretty close, but the lower wheel was not square for some reason. Using a spirit level and setting the upper wheels tilt to the very center leveled it cleanly so the whole saw and mount seems level to the floor.

I took a look at the homemade motor mount and found two washers lifting up the back end of the motor, I figured these where there as shims for just this purpose. But I cannot figure out why. I did remove them and the lower wheel is now square when checking with a spirit level too. I can't say it made any difference in reducing the remaining vibrations, perhaps a little, I am not sure... It did change the tracking of the blade on the lower wheel and made it go a bit forward of center, before it was pretty far back, which I didn't like too much.

So a slight improvement in my opinion, but why the mechanic who refitted the saw with the new motor did it like that I can't understand....


I should imagine that the back end of the motor was shimmed with the washers so as to slightly tilt the lower wheel forward and downward. Lower wheels are sometimes positioned this way to counteract the force of the blade tension pulling them up. In the case of this particular saw, it may have been made necessary by the bent upper shaft and worn bearings that you originally had - so as to make the blades track properly.

That is a fine old saw, btw. Wish I had something similar.

Jim
​
He who welds steel with flaming pine cones may accomplish anything!

[Andy Booth]

The motor looks like a relatively recent standard size. older motors tended to be built into the casting.
Seems small to be a low speed motor. Lower speed = more poles=more diameter.

[James Nugnes]

Hey just thought I would mention that my Iturra Design Bandsaw Accessories catalog came in the last couple days. It is really a neat catalog. 8" x 11" and about 1" thick. Lots of interesting parts and bandsaw articles, tips and DIY info. For guys with a Delta or a Delta clone it would seem to be a must have and worth having for anybody interested in bandsaws

[Dennis Aspö]

The motor looks like a relatively recent standard size. older motors tended to be built into the casting.
Seems small to be a low speed motor. Lower speed = more poles=more diameter.

I don't have an RPM meter but I did some improvised measuring by marking a bit of the blade with a felt marking pen and then filming it once running, it's a bit inexact but something like 820rpm was what I got for the motor.