Varnish Rub-out with brown paper + MS ???

[Kent A Bathurst]

Have not done this; I understand it. I have a "perfect finish is not a requirement" small bench I want to do this way - perfect place to make learning-curve mistakes.

One question: How long do I need to let the oil-base varnish cure before I start?

If I was doing a "real" rub-out on, say, Waterlox, I would wait 4+ weeks [more like 6 this time of year]. Does the same rule apply with the born bag + MS deal?

FWIW - outdoor kids bench; Epifanes is the varnish [on jatoba]. Just looking to nuke the dust nibs.

Bench is just the latest in the not-all-that-subtle shots across the bow they are sending their son regarding grandkids. DIL is definitely on board, the son has not awakened to the reality of his situation, as of yet. Tremendously bright young man - works in computer-techie field - but the husband game is something he is slowly learning how to play. :D :D

As a "newbie", please feel free to answer any questions I would/should have asked, had I been smart enough to pose them.

TIA

Kent

[John TenEyck]

I've always used a piece of brown grocery store paper bag, with no MS. Never heard of that actually; doesn't mean it doesn't work, just never heard of it. Epifanes takes a long, long, long time to harden. It's formulated to stay flexible so that it can handle the expansion/contraction experienced in outdoor furniture. I think I rubbed it with the brown bag trick after a couple of months. Since it was an outdoor bench, I wasn't trying for perfection, just to knock off any burrs, and it worked fine for that purpose. It doesn't really cut off the nibs, it just sort of rounds them over so that the finish is smoother to the touch.

John

[Bill McNiel]

Kent,
In my experience the Brown Paper Bag approach is best at refining a gloss finish. I don't think it is really the best way to remove dust nibs, etc. It just doesn't have enought bite. Never tried using MS with BPG, seem like it would further limit abrasion.

[Rick Mosher]

For removing nibs in the finish use a nib file. Either a fine or a coarse file from Steck (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_369374_369374?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Automotive-_-Auto%20Body%20Repair-_-1523621&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=1523621&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=1523621&gclid=CO_q7fi_gMICFaFr7AodqzQAFg)is good, my personal favorite is the metal plane from Konig. (http://www.konigtouchup.com/BuyNow/metalplaner.html) Don't apply pressure while using just allow the weight of the file to cut off the nibs. The paper bag trick works best with dust dried in the finish leaving a sandpaper feel. If you truly would like to rub the finish to a lower sheen than high gloss then Abralon pads on an orbital sander are by far the best way to go.

[Kent A Bathurst]

...........I wasn't trying for perfection, just to knock off any burrs, and it worked fine for that purpose. It doesn't really cut off the nibs, it just sort of rounds them over so that the finish is smoother to the touch.

John - That exactly describes my objectives. I will go away, and come back in the spring. Maybe.

[Kent A Bathurst]

For removing nibs in the finish use a nib file. Either a fine or a coarse file from Steck (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_369374_369374?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Automotive-_-Auto%20Body%20Repair-_-1523621&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=1523621&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=1523621&gclid=CO_q7fi_gMICFaFr7AodqzQAFg)is good, my personal favorite is the metal plane from Konig. (http://www.konigtouchup.com/BuyNow/metalplaner.html) Don't apply pressure while using just allow the weight of the file to cut off the nibs. The paper bag trick works best with dust dried in the finish leaving a sandpaper feel. If you truly would like to rub the finish to a lower sheen than high gloss then Abralon pads on an orbital sander are by far the best way to go.

Rick - I have never before heard of those tools. Learn something new every day. Very interesting. When/what/why do you use them? What is the resulting finish?


I'm not looking for the abalon rub-out result. That bit I know. Just looking for a quick-and-easy way to knock down the errant dust nibs - I'm not going to the pains I usually endure on good furniture to avoid them.

[Rick Mosher]

Kent, they are simply small files that cut the dust nib off at the surface. If you look real closely you will be able to see where it has been sliced off but the surface will feel perfectly smooth. Must be done on fully cured finish so it doesn't scratch the surface though. They can also be used to file down runs in the finish before the next coat. (I prefer a card scraper for that myself though)

[Kent A Bathurst]

Kent, they are simply small files that cut the dust nib off at the surface. If you look real closely you will be able to see where it has been sliced off but the surface will feel perfectly smooth. Must be done on fully cured finish so it doesn't scratch the surface though. They can also be used to file down runs in the finish before the next coat. (I prefer a card scraper for that myself though)

Very cool. Thanks.

I agree on card scraper between coats.

[Dan Hulbert]

For dust nibs, I usually use a single edge razor blade held vertically and dragged across the surface with a very light touch. Kind of a mini-card scraper without the burr. Also works well on shellac runs.

[Howard Acheson]

Oil based finishes should be allowed to fully cure before any finishing of the finish. This would be at least 4-6 weeks maybe more.