Cove cutting on table saw

[Tyler Keniston]

For all those with tablesaw cove cutting experience...

I understand that taking small passes (+- 1/8") makes sense due to large forces on the motor and side loads on the blade, but just to be sure I understand the way the saw is cutting; a pass larger than the depth of the carbide teeth would physically not cut at all correct? The exposed part of the blade without teeth would simply jam into the lower part of the uncut cove.?

Also, is the fact that the back half of the blade is also cutting not really that big of a concern in regards to kickback? I assume that if the teeth were dull and/or a larger pass was attempted quickly that those teeth in the back could theoretically lift the work piece?

Just want to make sure I understand the forces during the cut before trying it...

[Lee Schierer]

You are correct. You want to make sure your stock is held between guide blocks in front of and behind the piece being cut. You also want to have a feather board to hold the piece down against the blade. Be aware that the cut you will get will be rather rough so plan on considerable sanding to get it smooth. A blade with a raker tooth profile should give a smoother cut than any other tooth configuration. You want to use a slow feed rate letting the blade cut. Making dado cuts length wise to remove the bulk of the material before you try cutting the cove will make the job faster.

[Richard McComas]

Cove cutter 1.0

Cool little program for cutting coves. Free.

http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/bpindex2.shtml#downloads

[John TenEyck]

I've done it with only a single fence at the front w/o problems. Not saying it's wise, but I found no issues. However, IMO 1/8" is far too much to try to take off with each pass. I think I used no more than 1/16".

John

[Chris Padilla]

Cutting coves on a table saw should be done slow and easy for the best result...especially with a normal table saw blade.

I happen to have a cover cutter...the Lonnie Bird version from CMT. That one cuts like a dream...very smooth and clean due to its mass.

[Jesse Busenitz]

Not to be a naysayer, but unless your building a piece of specific custom moulding.... just go buy it. Unless your doing it for the challenge.:)

[Mike Henderson]

Not to be a naysayer, but unless you're building a piece of specific custom molding.... just go buy it. Unless you're doing it for the challenge.:)
There are plenty of situations where a cove is needed but it's not molding. I've built a swing where I wanted a piece to have a cove shape (where the seat and back met). There was no way to do that except to cut a cove on the table saw. I can think of other situations.

Knowing how to do a cove safely on the table saw gives you a technique to meet those design challenges.

Mike

[Tyler Keniston]

Thanks all for the tips. Sounds like going slow is the way.

It's mostly just a technique I want to have in the arsenal. Not even a specific project in mind right now...

Is there any specific force the cut is placing on the piece that the rear fence is protecting against, or is it more a precautionary measure to prevent the work piece from wiggling/vibrating away during the cut?

I can definately see why applying a downward force via a feather-board or jointer pad would be necessary.

[Lee Schierer]

Is there any specific force the cut is placing on the piece that the rear fence is protecting against, or is it more a precautionary measure to prevent the work piece from wiggling/vibrating away during the cut?


You want to constrain the piece so that your cove cut is as smooth as possible. As you are pushing the piece across the blade, you are actually pushing towad the back of the saw. The guide behind it will prevent any slip ups that might ruin you piece.

[Yonak Hawkins]

I've done it with only a single fence at the front w/o problems. Not saying it's wise, but I found no issues. However, IMO 1/8" is far too much to try to take off with each pass. I think I used no more than 1/16".

John

I agree with John. There is no significant upcut just as there is no real upcut for a straight cut but, still, it's always important to keep the piece securely held down to the table.

[Larry Edgerton]

I use a dado blade for cleaner results.

Larry

[glenn bradley]

I do one or two fences depending on what I'm doing. I used two fences on the short dresser-top organizer since the piece was small and a bit awkward to control:

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I used a single on some larger stock as this allowed me to use push blocks to control the stock:

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I use a 60 or 80 tooth blade and move slowly taking 1/16" or less. I try for a very fine cut and very slow speed for the last pass. This seems like it takes "forever" but, in fact takes a lot less time than sanding out the saw marks left from a faster feed rate. For me this results in a finish that can be brought smooth with a few strokes from a goose-neck scraper.

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