Advice on cutting plywood top

[David Huston]

I am trying to cut this plywood top for an entertainment center for my wife. I was thinking about using a jig saw to cut this but I am nervous that if I stray from the cut line much at all it will be noticeable when i try and attach the edging. This will be stain grade so I cant rely on filler for the imperfections. Any thoughts are appreciated.

300030

[Matt Day]

Many ways to skin that cat.

Does it have to be one piece? Three rectangles cut on the table saw would do it.

Or make three rectangle templates out of 1/4", cut 1/8" to the line with a jig saw, then clean up with a router.

If it has to be one piece, you could do it with stopped cuts on the table saw and clean up the corners with a jig saw or hand tools.

And probably another 6 ways I haven't thought about yet.

[Charles Wiggins]

I was thinking about using a jig saw to cut this but I am nervous that if I stray from the cut line much at all it will be noticeable when i try and attach the edging.

I guess it all depends on what tools you have available. If it were me, in my shop, I would use my track saw to make the cuts stopping just short of the corners, then finish the corners with a flush cut saw.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I guess it all depends on what tools you have available. If it were me, in my shop, I would use my track sawThis is another one of those countless threads where if the OP had a track saw, then there would be no reason to ask how to do it.
I've lost count of those threads - but - I'm always at a loss to come up with a few of them to counter the claim that a track saw is only good for breaking down sheet goods.

I agree w/Charles, a track saw would make this a no brainer.

[Lee Schierer]

I've broken down plywood with my Bosch jig saw using a clamp on aluminum straight edge and a Bosch T-234X blade.300048 These blades give an extremely smooth cut and don't like turning. Just be sure that y9or straight edge doesn't flex and that you keep the base of your jig saw tight to the guide. Let the blade cut, don't force it into the cut.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I guess it all depends on what tools you have available. If it were me, in my shop, I would use my track saw to make the cuts stopping just short of the corners, then finish the corners with a flush cut saw.

Same deal, but with TS [and sled for x-cuts].

[Kevin Jenness]

1. Join two pieces together in the long grain direction.

2. Rough it out oversize with a jigsaw, clean up the long edges with a router and straightedge, clean up the corners with a handsaw and sanding block.

[Jerry Miner]

I would (and do) make stopped cuts with the table saw. If you're careful, you can cut right into the corner. The little bit of "over-cut" will be underneath, where it won't show.

[Brett Luna]

If it has to be one piece, you could do it with stopped cuts on the table saw and clean up the corners with a jig saw or hand tools.

I'm remodeling our stairs and recently finished fitting mitered return nosings on the upper treads. Matt's suggestion is how I got a nice clean crosscut up to the miter. I finished what little remained with a jig saw and a clean cutting Bosch blade.

[Ethan Melad]

What I'd do:
Rip your full 96x22 top (cut slightly oversize to account for kerf thickness). Then rip off 3" for your protruding section in front and cut to length, taking center section to match the grain. Check size of large section and trim the back edge to correct width. Biscuit or spline accurately, glue strip back on. Should be invisible, no fear of jigsaw blade error, no overcut from a circular blade, sharp corners, nice smooth edges to attach edge band.