New guy with a miter saw question

[Charles Rogers]

First, I learned about this forum recently and after reading through several threads that make me look like I've never touched a tool, figured I would go ahead and join. Recently I purchased a 10" Ryobi sliding compound miter saw hoping to be able to make very precise cuts. The actual cuts are measuring about a degree off. That's fine if I'm using the saw to cut dutch siding for the house as the ends are covered by 1x4 trim pieces. I would like to try to start making small items where angles aren't concealed, items like an end table or a classic style toolbox. In those cases, the angles need to be precise.

I know that Ryobi tools get a bad rap in some circles. My experience with them in the past has been positive, though I'm not a contractor or someone else who uses tools for a living. I have a 7.25" Craftsman (non sliding) compound miter saw that cuts very precise angles. Unfortunately it won't cut anything wider than 4", hence the Ryobi purchase. Would a Milwaukee or some other higher priced machine be more precise, or am I expecting too much of this type of machine?

Thanks,
Charles

[Grant Wilkinson]

When you say that it is off by a degree, do you mean that, when the table is set in the 90 degree detent, the cuts are 89 or 91 degrees? If so, it's a simple matter to adjust the saw to be accurate. If you mean that it is cutting 90 degrees when not using the slider and is off when using the slider, things get more complicated.

[Myk Rian]

I did a Google search for "calibrate ryobi miter saw".
There is so much info, you'll never read it all.

[Stan Calow]

Charles, I think miter saws are made for the rougher carpentry cuts and can seldom be precise enough for small, precise furniture-type joinery without additional hand work with planes, sanding etc. There is too much movement, flex and torque having an effect on your cut no matter how carefully you make the initial set up. The blade and motor assembly have to move a relatively long way, so hard to stay square. That being said, I think clamping the workpiece securely helps a lot. Just my amateur opinion.

[Matt Day]

Stan, I'd agree with you if you're only talking about low end saws, especially those that haven't been adjusted properly.
A quality SCMS that is fine tuned can create a very nice and accurate cut good enough for woodworking.

[Charles Rogers]

When you say that it is off by a degree, do you mean that, when the table is set in the 90 degree detent, the cuts are 89 or 91 degrees?


That's exactly what I meant. This is a new model, so there's no information for this specific saw available except at the Home Depot website, and maybe Ryobi's website, though I didn't check there. The instruction manual says that fine adjustments are made at the factory and there's no need to do any fine tuning. The reviews at the HD website are glowing, maybe mine was set by a factory worker in a big hurry. I looked at youtube videos for other saws and was able to glean enough information to fine tune the saw. Now it's cutting exactly at 90 degrees, as measured by a couple different squares. Now I'm feeling better about it.

Thank you for the help.

[Harvey Miller]

Here's a pretty good article on checking a miter saw:
http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/07/23/miter-saw-tune-up/

It includes a couple ways to check the 'trueness' of the saw.

And you can find your manuals here:
http://manuals.ryobitools.com/

[Jerry Thompson]

I still use a 45d shooting board after the saw cut. It sure makes them tight. But then again I'm a Brain Surgeon.:)

[Rich Engelhardt]

Now it's cutting exactly at 90 degrees, as measured by a couple different squares. Now I'm feeling better about it. & it will continue to cut like that - - - provided you check it very frequently.
Check it if you transport it from one place to another, cut a lot of material, change the blade and/or have some sort of issue that either binds the blade or sends a cutoff into the works and makes a horrible loud noise. (can't think of any other way to describe it - there's another thread here about that sort of thing happening)

Sooner rather than later though, the bearings are going to develop a lot of play, the slide mechanism is going to quit locking up nice and tight and in general the saw is going to lose it's ability to hold true settings.
That's the price you pay for buying a low end saw like the Ryobi.

No knock against the aw since my "go to" saw for a job site is a 10" Ryobi non-slider.

More expensive saws will hold their settings better and longer, have better bearings and will resist wear and tear better.
Go ahead and enjoy using your saw & just check it for true before you do anything real critical with it.