Epoxy and Wood Knots

[Mark W Pugh]

OK, what epoxy do you guys use to stabilize knots/wood defects? I always have System Three T-88 on hand, but it seems too thick and it does not release the bubbles.

I have viewed fixes, on line, where they were able to slowly pour the epoxy in the knot. So, back to the original question, what do you guys use?

[Dave Anthony]

I use West Systems epoxy. You need to stir carefully and adjust the amount of hardener to avoid excessive bubbles (I would expect this with any epoxy). I leave it clear or sometimes mix a little sawdust for color.

[Keith Hankins]

Depends on the knot size, makeup and what I'm trying to do. To be honest, I've done more stablizing with CA glue's than epoxy. With the diff viscosities and speed of drying, it works best for me, unless the pocket is extremely huge.

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi Mark,Here is the one I use sometimes bubbles keep coming out but usually I get most of them.I also use a lighter to pop the ones on the surface.

[Tom M King]

Sometimes black golf club epoxy

[Mark W Pugh]

Hi Mark,Here is the one I use sometimes bubbles keep coming out but usually I get most of them.I also use a lighter to pop the ones on the surface.

Once you mix West System epoxy, is it thin enough to pour?

[Chris Padilla]

Warming the epoxy in a bath of hot water will increase the viscosity.

You could also try a polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue. Warm it a bit and it flows like water and will soak in nicely. It won't impact your finish, either.

[Wade Lippman]

Warming the epoxy in a bath of hot water will increase the viscosity.

You could also try a polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue. Warm it a bit and it flows like water and will soak in nicely. It won't impact your finish, either.

It foams up; won't it make a great mess?

[Andrew Hughes]

It's very thin with a long open time in cool temp 70 is just about the best.Small batches take longer to harden, bigger batches and warm temp is will go hard faster.And trap bubbles.5 to 1 is the mix.The smallest amounts I make is 1tsp to 5tsp. Yes it will pour.

[Bruce Volden]

I've watched some DIY show where they use a heat gun / hair drier to warm the epoxy in place which will release any air bubbles. Never tried it but it must work, right, otherwise it would not have been on tv!! ;>)

Bruce

[Dave Richards]

I've used Raka Epoxy for about 15. Very good product and I like the mix ratio better.

You might also try heating the wood before adding the epoxy. This will cause the epoxy to soak in more easily. If the hole goes all the way through, clamp a piece of ply covered in packing tape or use a piece of smooth plexiglas to get a nice, flat surface. When the epoxy cures the plastic will pop right off.

Robb White was a boat builder in Florida who built boats out of yellow poplar which isn't an especially rot resistant wood. He impregnated the wood with epoxy by heating his shop and the boat to up around 100°F or so. Then, when he applied the epoxy it would soak right in. Here's one of his poplar boats.
http://www.robbwhite.com/photos/images/016.jpg

This is a photo of a boat by John Blazy. He rolled epoxy on the hull and then rolled down a sheet of polyester film on top of it. This photo shows the film being removed and the surface of the epoxy after curing.
http://www.johnblazydesigns.com/images/5-18-bowpeelclsp!.jpg

[cody michael]

I have used epoxy bar top coating, you can buy at woodcraft even hobby stores like michaels, heat gun/propane torch does make it thin and move faster just be careful not to heat it up to much, it then hardens with tons of bubbles (makes a big mess) and the heat source pops bubbles and makes them rise faster.

[Andrew Hughes]

I stand corrected I had forgot about the bar top coating,that's a good choice I have used some stuff called mirror coat,it has a very long open time and very friendly with fumes.One thing they all have in common is they are expensive.

[Chris Padilla]

It foams up; won't it make a great mess?

Do not add any additional water when using GG but the foam scrapes right off no muss no fuss. I use GG all the time to fix veneer bubbles and such. Just coat the surface...clamp...sand scrape and you're good to go.

[Peter Quinn]

I usually use west systems. If you warm the resin before mixing to around 100 degrees it flows better and makes less bubbles. The hair dryer thing really works well too, makes the epoxy harden much faster too.

[Bob Grier]

I have used West System 105 with 206 hardner in recent years and it worked fine. Also use microfibers 403 when structural filling. There are many options with West System depending on what you want to do.

However, when I was a kid I was into bugs and sea critters. I would use fiberglass resin (I suppose it was polyester resin) to encapsulate the critters and make little do dads or a science projects. As long as I didn't add too much hardener, I didn't get bubbles. Too much hardener made it get hot and boil with lots of bubbles. Kinda scary when that happened.

[Bill McNiel]

I use West Systems and add Transtint dyes. Never had any real issues with bubbles.

[Jim Finn]

I use a product called "Z-Poxy" I get at my local hobby store. It is thin and sets up with no bubbles. Even a small crack in a firm knot will require masking tape on the back side of the knot to stop this epoxy from running right through the crack and out the other side. This stuff penetrates !