Jointer Fence Question

[Andrew Kertesz]

I have a 6" Rikon jointer. It hasn't had much use and in trying to square the fence to the table I am unable to accomplish this on both sides of the cutter head. If I square it before the cutter it is off after the cutter at the top. Can't find my feeler gauge right now but I can see a small amount of light between the fence and the top of the square. If I square it after the gap is at the bottom of the square before the cutter head. I'm guessing this means I have a twisted fence. Which is more critical to be square? Before the cutter or after? Anyway to straight this out?

[Matt Day]

You should put a known straight edge on the fence to see if the fence is flat.
If so, your infeed and outfeed tables aren't parallel, which is making it look like your fence is twisted.

[Andrew Hughes]

Square your fence after the cutting head,and press there when squareing the edge that's what I do.
also helps to have a accurate square.I also agree with Matt Tables could be wacky or the fence twisted..Don't worry You can still get good edges if the machine isn't perfect.Good luck.Aj

[glenn bradley]

I'd do Matt's test first to make sure you aren't trying to fix a symptom as opposed to the problem. A fence could get twisted and tables can get misaligned. You would be really unhappy if you shimmed your tables to a bent fence. You would be unhappy if you replaced a fence only to still have the problem. Straightedge your fence lengthwise and across opposite corners and go from there.

[Andy Pratt]

Seconding matt's recommendation here. This is probably the right time to just either google a good guide on setting up a jointer or buy one of the books on it and go through the entire process. With a jointer you really need to start the setup from the right place and go through it all: tables index off cutterhead, fence indexes off tables on mine for example. If I tried to fix one without doing the prerequisite tasks I would just be making things worse. Good straightedges are somewhat pricey but they will pay for themselves in saved frustration when you have issues like these, and there is really no way around owning one eventually so you might as well get it now if you don't have one.

It would be easy for the tables to not be set to co-planer (very few are perfect from the factory), and it is also not uncommon to have a fence that is not flat and needs replacement (my last jointer had this issue).

The jointer needs to be set up pretty perfect to work right, this is worth putting time/money into to figure out and fix the problem or you will have no end of frustration and think the jointer just doesn't work right down the road as a result. Could be as simple as just turning a few screws to get the tables co-planar, or as burdensome as replacing the fence.

[Clay Fails]

Seconding matt's recommendation here. This is probably the right time to just either google a good guide on setting up a jointer or buy one of the books on it and go through the entire process. With a jointer you really need to start the setup from the right place and go through it all: tables index off cutterhead, fence indexes off tables on mine for example. If I tried to fix one without doing the prerequisite tasks I would just be making things worse. Good straightedges are somewhat pricey but they will pay for themselves in saved frustration when you have issues like these, and there is really no way around owning one eventually so you might as well get it now if you don't have one.

It would be easy for the tables to not be set to co-planer (very few are perfect from the factory), and it is also not uncommon to have a fence that is not flat and needs replacement (my last jointer had this issue).

The jointer needs to be set up pretty perfect to work right, this is worth putting time/money into to figure out and fix the problem or you will have no end of frustration and think the jointer just doesn't work right down the road as a result. Could be as simple as just turning a few screws to get the tables co-planar, or as burdensome as replacing the fence.

i second what Andy said. When I purchased my DJ 20 (used) 6 or 7 years ago, I went through the entire setup process. Time well spent. Once you get the tables coplanar, they stay that way unless maybe if you move the saw somewhere.
i also upgraded to powertwist link belt and Byrd helical cutters. Well worth the work.

[Andrew Hughes]

I doubt there any adjustments to bring the tables coplaner shimming the ways is not something I would want to spend my time doing.
Sometimes Ya have to play the hand you got.Squareing the table to the out feed is where I would start.Use good technique and see how close to square and straight Ya get.