Anyone make their own bandsaw guides from wood?

[Jack Gaskins]

Hello. Im wanting to try replacing my euro style guides with wood guides for my MM20. Anyone here done this and can show me some photos.

Thanks,
Jack

[Kevin Bourque]

I've done it lots of times but I don't have any pics, but all I ever did was cut a square of oak and plug it into the guide holder.

[Frederick Skelly]

Not to derail your post, but what's the advantage of using wood? (Other than cost, of course.) I might like to try it myself.

Thanks,
Fred

[Chris Padilla]

Lignum vitae is often used for such a task. I have not made any myself but have seen them.

[Phil Thien]

I use lignum vitae as well as other oily exotics. My holders just need something with a 3/8" (square) cross-section, so very easy.

Although I did replace the bearing rollers on a Rikon-type bandsaw with wood by simply cutting a slot through a block of wood and adding a screw. Worked great.

[Mel Fulks]

Yeah,one place I worked had an old band saw that seemed to have been made for wood guides ,but at some point metal inserts had been substituted. You can ruin a bunch of blades with ONE set of steel blocks ! I made a bunch of pairs out of dogwood ,marked lefts and rights, and stored pairs in clear baggies. Making improvements in a commercial shop on your
own time is a great way to irritate people!

[Jack Gaskins]

I use lignum vitae as well as other oily exotics. My holders just need something with a 3/8" (square) cross-section, so very easy.

Although I did replace the bearing rollers on a Rikon-type bandsaw with wood by simply cutting a slot through a block of wood and adding a screw. Worked great.

My euro guides are large, not sure how to secure the wood in the bearing holder since the euro guides have a threaded end and lock nut. Maybe your idea of making a kerf then using a screw to expand the guide in the holder might work.

[Jack Gaskins]

Not to derail your post, but what's the advantage of using wood? (Other than cost, of course.) I might like to try it myself.

Thanks,
Fred

Hi Fred, Well, I purchased my saw used and the guides where stiff. After soaking them for 30 days in a bucket of WD40 they turned easier but not much. They are loud and just a PITA. I have read several articles on using wood cool blocks that ride against the blade and the advantages are the blocks will not heat the blade, if the blocks come in contact with the blade teeth they will not dull the teeth, less noise and vibration,,,so I have read. Manufactures are invested in metal blade guides which IMO is why you do not see wood guides offered on the internet. Im sure metal guides have their usefulness but not on my machine. Then there is the flip side of the coin,,,,,,,,,do you need guides in the first place. I have read many articles supporting that if your blade tension is perfect then your blade will not need guides to keep it from wandering. Problem is, my bandsaw tensioning gauge is missing the "perfect" mark!

Jack

[Ed Aumiller]

Did it all the time on my last bandsaw... needed round inserts... made them out of cherry and would make 6 or so at a time and put them in a container with car oil to soak so when put them on machine, it would kind of lubricate the blade...
Never had any problem with oil getting on the wood I was cutting...
They worked better than the original guides and better than "cool blocks" in my opinion...
One reason I think is that I would push them tight against the blade and that helped hold the blade steady....

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Jack! I appreciate the help. I'm going to try it myself this weekend!
Fred

[Mike Wilkins]

Give Laguna Tools a call and see if they have a set of ceramic guides that will fit your saw. I made the switch from the Euro guides to ceramic on my Laguna saw and love the outcome. Not a cheap fix, but well worth the effort.
I am also restoring an older Craftsman band saw (late 40's/early 50's) that had brass guides. Not sure how they will work, but will find out soon.

[Jack Gaskins]

Give Laguna Tools a call and see if they have a set of ceramic guides that will fit your saw. I made the switch from the Euro guides to ceramic on my Laguna saw and love the outcome. Not a cheap fix, but well worth the effort.
I am also restoring an older Craftsman band saw (late 40's/early 50's) that had brass guides. Not sure how they will work, but will find out soon.

Yeah ceramic blocks are cool (pun intended) but just don't want to drop that much money on them. Least not now, maybe if the blocks I make don't work out.....

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Jack
How about this. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?26314-Simple-Small-Blade-Guide-For-Euro-Guides&highlight=sam+blade+guide

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=25983&d=1131907103

[Jim Andrew]

Thomas, how wide is that blade, and did you use your bandsaw to make the groove?

[Curt Harms]

Did it all the time on my last bandsaw... needed round inserts... made them out of cherry and would make 6 or so at a time and put them in a container with car oil to soak so when put them on machine, it would kind of lubricate the blade...
Never had any problem with oil getting on the wood I was cutting...
They worked better than the original guides and better than "cool blocks" in my opinion...
One reason I think is that I would push them tight against the blade and that helped hold the blade steady....

True about oil soaked wood. I used mineral oil, submerged the wood bits and microwaved them for about 45 seconds. The theory is that warmer oil is thinner so will penetrate better. I don't know how true it is but don't see where it'll hurt.

[Rick Potter]

I have been using wood guides in my Delta/Rockwell 14" saw for at least 15 years. Started right after ruining a new blade with the original steel blocks. Cool blocks had come out recently, and I was going to get some, but needed the saw, so I made some out of some oily tropical wood. Can't remember what, but I made several sets, which I have not used up yet.

On smaller blades, up to 1/4" or so, I just bury the blade in the guide, and don't worry about it. Every once in a while I remove them and square them up again with a sander, rotate them 1/4 turn to avoid the set screw marks and put them back in. The set screws make dents I the wood, so they are difficult to adjust after shortening them a bit.

Rick P

[Myk Rian]

I've used hardwood soaked in mineral oil. Works great.
The advantage of this is you can bury the blade in them. Very helpful when re-sawing.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Thomas, how wide is that blade, and did you use your bandsaw to make the groove?
Jim
This is Sam Blasco designed, I only fallowed the post, works very well with small blades. Have not used it during re-sawing wide panels.

[Jack Gaskins]

Jim
This is Sam Blasco designed, I only fallowed the post, works very well with small blades. Have not used it during re-sawing wide panels.

Thanks for the link, I will make one for small blades. I think I can use a fostner bit to make a recess to fit a block of wood over on the existing guide and the clamping action should hold them on the guide.

[Curt Harms]

I have been using wood guides in my Delta/Rockwell 14" saw for at least 15 years. Started right after ruining a new blade with the original steel blocks. Cool blocks had come out recently, and I was going to get some, but needed the saw, so I made some out of some oily tropical wood. Can't remember what, but I made several sets, which I have not used up yet.

On smaller blades, up to 1/4" or so, I just bury the blade in the guide, and don't worry about it. Every once in a while I remove them and square them up again with a sander, rotate them 1/4 turn to avoid the set screw marks and put them back in. The set screws make dents I the wood, so they are difficult to adjust after shortening them a bit.

Rick P

If you want to avoid the set screw marks, you could make 'em a bit smaller and slip a bit of hard metal between the wooden guide and the set screw. Something like a worn hacksaw blade with the teeth ground off?

[Phil Thien]

If you want to avoid the set screw marks, you could make 'em a bit smaller and slip a bit of hard metal between the wooden guide and the set screw. Something like a worn hacksaw blade with the teeth ground off?

I find a steel washer where the I.D. is smaller than the point of the set screw and the O.D. is small enough to fit into the holder. Works great.

[Rick Potter]

Great ideas.

Rick P

[ken seale]

I used to make these guide holders for the original USA MiniMax Distributors. I probably have about a dozen left. They will fit any euro guide band saw. I made them for using small blades. When setting them you can run them close to the blade tips without worrying about dulling the blade. The actual guide can be anything 1/2" dia. McMaster-carr sells all kinds of 1/2" dia. stock or you can use wood. 12mm cool blocks work fine too.

Drop me a PM for more info.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h119/nicobie/guide-holders-web_zps61832bee.jpg (http://s62.photobucket.com/user/nicobie/media/guide-holders-web_zps61832bee.jpg.html)

[Johnny Rowland]

Louis Iturra,Who has a vast knowledge of all things band saw speaks of Lignum vitae,Its used for making ship bearings very hard and oily.Easily purchased..