Crown Molding on a Table Saw?

[Scott Welty]

I need to cut some crown molding for a fireplace mantel I'm building. Yes I sold my compound miter saw due to disuse. Can a use one of those bench dog jigs (or other) on the table saw to make the outside corner cuts? Any other advise?

Scott

[Scott Brandstetter]

I suppose anything is possible but depending on how much you have to cut, and if they are outside corners, what about going old school and getting a $10 miter saw plastic box and putting a hand saw to it? Just a thought.

[Peter Quinn]

Technically, yes. Problem will be how to pass pieces the length of your typical crown molding past the blade, that will take perhaps some out rigger support, good clamping and a stout sled.

[Alan Schaffter]

Miter gauge changes angles and blade tilts, just like a compound miter saw. . . . . but

1. Stock must move over the blade instead of visa-versa. As Peter says, hard to keep control.
2. You'll need a good accessory fence on your miter gauge.
3. Depending on the size of your crown- there may not be enough blade above the table to make a through cut.

Forget it.

[Mark Bolton]

I can't imagine mantle crown being that long? 5' maybe? Of course you can cut them on the TS. Aux fence on miter gauge and cut them on the flat.

[Scott Welty]

Thanks guys. My reading indicated the idea of propping the molding up against the miter gauge in the manner in which it will be installed except upside down. Then you only have to deal with one angle (45 on the gauge?). Does this help at all or is it going to make the support issue even more important?

[Mark Bolton]

I wouldn't even bother trying to cut iit nested (upside down and in it angled position) on the TS. Just cut it flat.

[Mark Wooden]

Cut it flat, face up, like you would with a SCMS. Adjust your miter gauge and blade to the angles necessary to make your miters. Just get a few extra feet of the molding for test cuts.

[Larry Fox]

Out of frustration I finally broke down and built a jig that is dead-bang every time. It is essentially a sled with vertical risers at 45-degrees to the blade on both sides. you stand the molding up on it like it would appear on the wall and run it past the blade making the cuts. You have to make two cuts - one for each side of the corner but that is no big deal. For longer lengths I just get my wife to hold up on the floppy end to stabilize it. To make sure the molding is set at the right angle I put a strip running parallel to the risers the right distance away. Drop the molding in, register it to the strips and riser and run it through. My jig is for outside corners but a similar jig for inside corners should work also.

Couple of things worth mentioning: My table saw is a 12" Euro slider so the jig bolts to the sled which I think makes it really precise.

[Scott Welty]

Larry,
Good idea! I have such a sled that I use for mitered corners on thin stock but I could modify i so the walls are high enough for the crown molding. Thanks! Also its nice to have a wife to hold up your floppy end!!
Cheers,
Scott

[Chris Padilla]

And here I thought this thread would be about making the coved part of the crown by running it over the blade at various angles. I have Lonnie Bird's crown molding kit that has the large blade for the table saw to hog out the cove.

So what about coping inside corners? ;)

[Mark Bolton]

And here I thought this thread would be about making the coved part of the crown by running it over the blade at various angles. I have Lonnie Bird's crown molding kit that has the large blade for the table saw to hog out the cove.

So what about coping inside corners? ;)

You beat me to it on both points I initially thought this would be about making crown. And agreed, there are no inside corners with crown.

I can't see having a dedicated crown jig for the TS unless you run them regularly. Cutting them flat is common practice on sliders and the TS is no different. I can't see a reason to nest it on the TS. Too much work. I'd just cut it and go but whatever floats your boat.