Table Saw Fence and Fixtures

[Scott Berg]

Hi everyone. I am somewhat new to woodworking and have kind of a dumb question. I have a Biesemeyer fence on my table saw and would like to make another fence that goes over it so I can put T-Track on it for featherboards, etc.

How does one go about attaching this to the Bies fence without drilling new holes in it, or is this not possible. Any help is appreciated.

[Michael Perata]

Unfortunately I am without a link for you, but this is a very common and easy solution.

Typically, a saddle is made to fit over the Bies. Some use the saddle as a slider, some have screwed/bolted it to the Bies fence and I have seen a saddle that included a screw clamp arrangement to attach the saddle to the fence.

[Jim Becker]

There is an excellent system in Jim Tolpin's Tablesaw Magic that is designed specifically for a Biesemeyer style saw. I've been using it on my Jet saw for years.

[scott spencer]

Try mounting 3 or 4 rare earth magnets in your aux fence. Between their power and a reasonable friction fit, it should be plenty secure.

[Vaughn McMillan]

There is an excellent system in Jim Tolpin's Tablesaw Magic that is designed specifically for a Biesemeyer style saw. I've been using it on my Jet saw for years.
I second the Tablesaw Magic recommendation. Although I haven't built the auxiliary fence Jim's using, the book describes that system, as well as a whole lot of other useful jigs you can add to it. I plan to modify my existing aux fence to take advantage of some of them. Especially for someone who's relatively new to this game (like me), the book has a lot of good ideas and suggestions.

- Vaughn

[Rick Schubert]

I can't see how he attaches the rip fence fixture to the fence in Jim Tolpin's Tablesaw Magic on page 59.

There is a diagram showing the "Construction of a Univeral Rip Fence Fixture"and a photo of the fixture. In the photo it shows a black knob, but in the drawing it doesn't show the knob and how the fixture is mounted firmly to the fence.

Jim, how did you attach yours?

Rick

[Vaughn McMillan]

I can't see how he attaches the rip fence fixture to the fence in Jim Tolpin's Tablesaw Magic on page 59.

There is a diagram showing the "Construction of a Univeral Rip Fence Fixture"and a photo of the fixture. In the photo it shows a black knob, but in the drawing it doesn't show the knob and how the fixture is mounted firmly to the fence.

Jim, how did you attach yours?

Rick

Rick, in the Cross Section detail of the drawing on page 59, the author mentions drilling and tapping the metal part of the rip fence to accept the knobbed bolts. So, in regards to Scott's original question, this particular system would require drilling holes into the fence. I think Scotts suggestion for rare earth magnets might be the ticket if you didn't want to drill the fence.

- Vaughn

[Corey Hallagan]

I have this book as well and plan on building this fence. You have to drill and tap the fence top. You don't actually have to mess with the fence faces. I have a Delta Contractors saw that has the T2 Beis like fence. It looks like on my fence the piece that would fit into the saddle is 3/8". I will be a little squeemish about drilling and tapping as well when the time comes but this jig is well worth the effort I think.

Corey

[Roy Wall]

Scott,

If you didn't want to drill holes in your fence, this is my idea:

take one strip of BB the length of the fence but 1" shorter than the height. This is the section that will be clamped next to the fence....

Make another strip same length -but higher if you like -to accomodate this "T" track. This will be the side nearest the blade.

Between these two "long strips" add 3-4 crossmembers (kinda like a 3-4 rung ladder) to create and connect the jig.

Now you have spaces to hook a couple of clamps that will span the original fence and inside section of your new aux. fence.

You could also make it PRECISELY 4" wide or similar so you could PRECISELY subtract this number ( the 4" or whatever) from your rip fence readout and know the width from the blade...

[Rick Schubert]

Rick, in the Cross Section detail of the drawing on page 59, the author mentions drilling and tapping the metal part of the rip fence to accept the knobbed bolts. So, in regards to Scott's original question, this particular system would require drilling holes into the fence. I think Scotts suggestion for rare earth magnets might be the ticket if you didn't want to drill the fence.

- Vaughn
Vaughn - Interesting that my edition (1st ed) of the book doesn't mention drilling and tapping or anything about connecting the fixture in the Cross Section of the drawing. They must have added that later.

Roy - Good idea. I might try that. Thanks.

Rick

[Scott Berg]

Thanks for the tips guys. I have Jim's book and my version talks about drilling and tapping the top of the fence :eek: (OUCH). Since I have had this fence only a week I don't think I can bring myself to go within 10 feet of it with a drill!!


Roy, in your description, are you saying that the shorter piece of wood is on one side of the fence and the taller piece on the other? Forgive me for being a little slow, it has been a long night in the garage assembling my dust collector.

[Roy Wall]

Thanks for the tips guys. I have Jim's book and my version talks about drilling and tapping the top of the fence :eek: (OUCH). Since I have had this fence only a week I don't think I can bring myself to go within 10 feet of it with a drill!!


Roy, in your description, are you saying that the shorter piece of wood is on one side of the fence and the taller piece on the other? Forgive me for being a little slow, it has been a long night in the garage assembling my dust collector.

Scott,

No, this entire "sub fence" is on left side of the Beisemeyer....
I can see how you where confused by my wording...my fault!!!

I've seen photos of these in WW books. THey clamp the shorter height to the left side of the Beis so its easier to clamp. I guess as long as its about the same height as the Beis you're okay... I thought you may need a little taller fence than the original to accomodate the "T tracks.." ...but maybe not.

The other fence nearest the blade is usually taller for a little more control of the workpiece.

If you want a really tall support fence nearest the blade I think I'd go at it anothet way...

Yes, I'd feel the same way about drilling holes in your new fence.. but there is nothing wrong with it and lots of WW'ers permanently attach safety devices to the fence because they work. Better safe and effective than just trying to look good.....

[Sam Blasco]

There is an excellent system in Jim Tolpin's Tablesaw Magic that is designed specifically for a Biesemeyer style saw. I've been using it on my Jet saw for years.

I'll second Jim here, but alot of the accesories for the fence system I found tedious, at best or overkill, and often only used them once after the initial Euphoria of making them, always the best part anyway, and I did have fun making them. I've still got the base and some parts for anyone with a TS in my area who might want them, though I am modifying some of them to work on the bandsaw.

[Scott Berg]

Roy, It's amazing what a good nights sleep will do for my brain! Today I can understand what you were explaining, my fault.

I just need to make another fence "box" with holes in the top to allow me to clamp it to my regular fence, kind of a sacrificial fence on steroids! I like it.
I will make one up out of some birch ply I have and try it out. I will post some pix if I am successful.

Thanks again everyone!

[Rick de Roque]

I can't see how he attaches the rip fence fixture to the fence in Jim Tolpin's Tablesaw Magic on page 59.

There is a diagram showing the "Construction of a Univeral Rip Fence Fixture"and a photo of the fixture. In the photo it shows a black knob, but in the drawing it doesn't show the knob and how the fixture is mounted firmly to the fence.

Jim, how did you attach yours?

Rick

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/rd4212/woodworking%20stuff/fence.jpg

This is from my shop.Used his design. works great. Drilled two hole for the spacer and attached it to the fence then drilled two holes in the tall fence and attached it to the spacer.
rick

[Rob Blaustein]

Hi Rick,
This is off the topic of this thread, but can you show some pics of your overarm blade guard--perhaps in a new thread, or via PM? I'm planning to make one and I'm looking for designs. Thanks.
--Rob

[Rick de Roque]

Hi Rick,
This is off the topic of this thread, but can you show some pics of your overarm blade guard--perhaps in a new thread, or via PM? I'm planning to make one and I'm looking for designs. Thanks.
--Rob

Here are some pics of the shop with the blade guard in the pic(these are the only pics I have right now on my computer with the blade guard in them). I will need to take a picture of just the blade guard if you need better pics. There are three knobs just below the blast gate so if I need to remove the guard, it removes quickly. It is made with lexon (sp). I made it 1 1/2 years ago and has worked well. Keeps my hands away from the blade and dust collection is great. If you need better pics let me know and I will take new pics.

Rick

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/rd4212/woodworking%20stuff/shop.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/rd4212/woodworking%20stuff/shoppic.jpg