Born again fear of saw

[Harry Thornton]

I grew up learning to use tools the old fashion way...trial and error. My dad, God rest his soul, was not particularly handy having come from an affluent, non-technical family. I learned how use tools by using them. I worked construction jobs and was not afraid of power tools. I am now.

I remember using a RAS when I was young. I was helping build a house for my sister. My father was the general contractor so I just helped by doing what was needed. I was doing some finish carpentry, using this RAS that I had not a clue about. I was ripping a piece of trim (probably from the wrong direction...I don't know a thing about RAS's still!...and don't use them.) The piece of trim shot out of the saw like a rocket and nearly hit my father. On the way out the board left a big chunk of splintered wood in my finger....went to the doc who cut it out.

That is the only mishap I have had but it may be purely due to the grace of God. I have a table saw with a riving knife that I cut down so it could stay on with non-through cuts. Gone are my blade cover and pawls. I have recieved feedback that is all over the board. Some call it a crazy move while others think it was the right thing to do. I personally considered them a dangerous obstacle when ripping short pieces, which I do a lot. I want to buy a Grr-ripper or two but for now they don't fit the budget. Does anyone know of a good book or source of free plans for making push blocks and other safety tools from wood? Feel free to PM me if you prefer. Thanks.

Harry

[Roy Wall]

Harry,

Check out "The Table Saw Book" revised 2004 (I think) by Kelly Mehler.....

It will have sleds, featherboards, push sticks, ....etc, etc.... to serve as reference.

Other books on TS's by Taunton press (is new this year) is also excellent.

David Marks, Jim Tolphin (Table Saw Magic)...are other great books!!

What TS do you have with a riving knife??

[Bill Lewis]

Better to learn by trial and error vs. trial and terror! Even if you reach the same result.

[Dale Rodabaugh]

I bought a used craftsman RA saw a few years ago.All of my friends said they are too dangerous ,dont use it.I use it for allmost all of my crosscutting,and have never had an accident or incident with it.Of course I never try to hog it either.I do my ripping on my table saw.To my way of thinking,you just have to read up on each tool,and treat them with respect.realize what they can and cant do.:rolleyes:

[Harry Thornton]

Roy, I have a Craftsman 22811, which is a Ryobi BT3000 in disguise. The blade and knife go straight up and down together. It is a controversial saw because it is aluminum and has a universal motor but it is great for me and has some nice features for much less money than cast iron brands....built in dust collection, sliding mitre table, smooth accurate rip fence, reversable/adjustable rails, etc. It is also very accurate when set up properly. It is not a good choice for someone that is hard on equipment...I am not. I need mobility and versatility more than durability.

Dale, I agree about RAS's. If I had one I would use it for cross-cutting and angled dado's. I would NOT use it for ripping under any circumstance. I have heard about them taking a run at you while cross-cutting but that does not scare me. Stuff flying at me faster than I can react scares heck out of me but is a distant #2 to losing a finger or eye.

[Harry Thornton]

I can say for a fact, I will never mention the Craftsman 22811 on this forum again. It is like saying you buy your clothes at TJ MAX...at the country club.:eek: :mad: :cool: :rolleyes: :eek: :mad: :confused: :cool: ......;)

[Sam Chambers]

Harry:

I just bought a pair of Grr-Rippers and used them last weekend for the first time. They provide very positive control of the workpiece, even teh hard, slick surface of the MDF I was cutting. As far as the price goes, the pair costs less than a trip to the ER. Seriously, if you're cutting small pieces, get a Grr-ripper.

[Vaughn McMillan]

I'm also a new Grr-Ripper owner, and I'm a walking endorsement. (No, not paid in any way.) I rip a lot of thin strips, and have been happily surprised about not only the safety factor, but due to better control, I'm getting better cuts. I thought it was a bit expensive, but as Sam said it's a lot cheaper than a trip to the hospital. (Well...initially about the same for me, since my HMO co-pay is $50 for a trip to the ER, but a lot more in the long run.) ;)

- Vaughn

[Rob Russell]

I can say for a fact, I will never mention the Craftsman 22811 on this forum again. It is like saying you buy your clothes at TJ MAX...at the country club.:eek: :mad: :cool: :rolleyes: :eek: :mad: :confused: :cool: ......;)

Harry,

I certainly hope you didn't get a lot of "get a real saw" or "Craftsman stuff is lousy" type messages off-forum. That's not what I'd expect of the folks at SMC.

You clearly said "It is a controversial saw ... but it is great for me ... I need mobility and versatility more than durability."

While I personally might think other saws are better, I can guarantee that there are a lot of folks on this forum who'd shake their heads and say that I didn't spend my money wisely either. Tools and machinery are a personal decision and we each make our own 'value judgements' about what we think is right for us.

Rob

[russ bransford]

Harry,

No advice, just an echo. My first experience around a TS was Jr Hi shop class. The teacher laid his had on the TS as he was explaining, then I saw his fingers. Most of them anyway.
I can still see it.
I found a safer way to make long cuts.

Be careful.

[Bill Fields]

Harry:

I have a big old (1963) 12" Craftsman RAS, and until I got a serious table saw, I used the RAS for everything. I only created one "unguide missle" once--ripping thin fiberboard.

The piece (it's hanging on the wall) was about 18" square and assumed the general behavoir of a lethal Frisbee, missing me, my truck, and embedding 6" into a cactus about 30' away.

I agree that staying away from RAS ripping is probably a good idea. But if one must, setting the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls correctly solves most of the problem--except in any slick hard material tha the pawls cannot dig into.

BILL FIELDS

[Russ Filtz]

I have built a narrow rip jig from the book "Table Saw Techniques, revised ed." by Roger Cliffe. Nice book with lots of pics, has several jigs to build and plans for some simple projects. The jig I use is from pp. 105-107, and works great and seems safe even for the narrowest rips.

[Harry Thornton]

Rob, nobody said anything ugly. People on this board seem generally very polite. Every now and then conversation can come to a screaching halt but that is in line with Mom's advice "say something nice or nothing at all".

I will go to the library and see if they have the recommended books. I am going to make a few push blocks and hold down devices and get after it again. Heck, I used a table saw with no splitter or cover before I even knew what kickback was. Igorance can be bliss....it can also get you seriously messed up!

[Don Baer]

Harry;
here is a link to a site with several push sticks you can make yourself.

http://www.woodzone.com/tips/push-stick.htm

I have a better one somewhere I'll try to find it.

[Kurt Aebi]

Harry,

You sound like a very nice person, Glad to have you aboard here at the "Creek"!

I have a Craftsman Table Saw and love it (others may not and that is okay). I don't profess one way or another is better - it is what you can do with a tool that makes you the craftsman you can be - not the expense of the tool. I look at it this way - If you are a cabinetmaker or professional woodworker, you better go top or near top of the line. If you are like most of us Hobby woodworker's go with whatever you like and make some real neat stuff to share with us here at the "Creek"! :)

It is the projects and pictures of what you can make that really gets us going here and helps keep each and every one of us inspired to make things and share with our friends here! We Love Pictures! :D ;) :)

[scott spencer]

Hi Harry - It shouldn't be too hard to make a something like a Gripper for a pusher....it would take some engineering to make it as versatile as a Gripper, but just a basic push pad modeled after a Gripper should be fairly simple.

[John Hart]

Harry...just an observation that I'd like to share....The conversation can go cold for many reasons...like people's schedules, nothing to add, different moods...whatever. Sometimes people just read the post and move on or talk to their screen. It's usually has nothing to do with saying something wrong or tool choice. I have a Craftsman TS and I didn't say anything. Oops! I guess I just did!!:D

[Harry Thornton]

Thanks for the kind words Kurt. Actually it is not the "Craftsman" that revolts people as much as the fact that Ryobi makes the 22811. In fact, when I realized Ryobi made my saw, I was not thrilled and a bit skeptical. I understand the reaction. Sears deserves much of the criticism. Some of their products are a very good value while others are not...similarly, Ryobi has some good products for the money and others that are just cheap. The 22811 is perfect for me and I have no desire to upgrade. I would like a better bandsaw, a bigger drill press and a jointer/planer, a but my saw is fine. It does not hold me back at all. Oh, and add a lathe to that wish list.

Again, thanks for the kind words. I appreciate the hospitality and will add pictures when I do something worth looking at. My next project is going to be a potting bench that I am doing for a friend for free. Rough cut custom sawn cypress will be the material of choice. Should be fun and easy.

John, you are probably right. I am just so chompin' at the bit to get all the answers...or maybe they really DO hate my saw...hey, just cause you're paranoid does not mean somebody is not out to get you! I am kidding, of course. Thanks for your comments.

[Don Baer]

My "Table" Saw is a Mikita bench top saw with an 8" blade. It was my dad's and he bought it over 20 years ago. He passed away 8 years ago and it became mine. I built a table for it with an outfeed and side table that gives me a 36 " rip capacity and have been doing fine with it for years. I find I can do anything I need on it except Dado's since the arbor will is not wide enough to accept a Dado blade. I just take more time to insure that my setup is correct. It has also forced me to make some fairly eleborate fixtures and use other means of joining. I have built some very nice pieces using it. Do I want a large Cabinate saw? Sure. Will I get one? Some day, but theres an awful lot of other stuff like a 16" band saw, a planner and a joiner that I'll buy first. And I will never get rid of my dads saw.

Like many on here have said it not the tool that makes the project, it's the craftsman or in my case the apprentice.