Circ saw blade rant

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

Cross cutting the ends of my dining table to add the end cap pieces (non 'functional' breadboard)...and I needed a new blade for the circular saw...so a visit to the HD was in order. Been quite some time since I bought a circular saw blade, but jeez o peete, when did they get so skinny? There's nothing to them anymore...makes a 10" thin kerf blade look awfully thick! Anyhoo, none of the ones they had looked good to me...so ignoring the little voice reminding me I said I'd never buy another Oldham blade, I bought the Oldham blade simply because it looked like it had a teensy bit more 'heft' to the teeth. What a waste of $14. Not only would it not cut 'straight', even with a guide, it was just a completely ragged cut. Soooo, back on goes the original Makita blade that came on the saw...the same blade that roughed out the birch plywood for a house full of cabinets, broke down a couple hundred BF of white oak, and had cross cut much 8/4 mesquite. Now, it didn't give me a 'finish cut' either, but it was vastly superior to the brand new Oldham. I eneded up using a flush trim bit with the straight edge to get an excellent finish cut...which I shoulda thought of to begin with. I've cut the ends of tables like this probably 50 times with a much thicker Freud blade...but all I see anymore are the cheapie Diablo. Where are the GOOD blades??? :confused: :mad:

KC

[lou sansone]

Seems like everyone wants thin kerf blades now days. A long time ago I used them, but a few years ago I moved to the 1/8" forrest blades. Like you said, they do not flex as much.

[Bartee Lamar]

Try the new "Razor" blade from PC . This is a very weird blade. It has Different tooth counts around the blade.

I put one in my Skill Saw and it seems a little better than the last few I used.

Here is the Link (http://www.portercable.com/index.asp?e=3399&p=4844)

[Kelly C. Hanna]

There is no good circ saw blade for what you wanna do available at HD's. I use the 40 tooth Freuds for casework when I have to. You could fashion a ZCI for the bottom of the circ saw foot and that would help. Don't try crosscutting Oak ply without it.

Oldham's blades are worthless...all of 'em.

[Bill White]

OK, I'll bite. What's a ZCI?

[David Wilson]

OK, I'll bite. What's a ZCI?

Zero Clearance Insert

[Jim Becker]

Based on an article in the latest issue of Woodshop News, it sounds like the Oldham (and Viper) brands are going to "go away" since they overlap with other B&D brands. But regardless of the brand, a blade that will not perform at least reasonably well, no matter what it cost, is dissappointing in the least.

[Gary Herrmann]

I got one as a gift, but probably wouldn't have spent the money on it. Its their Duraline HI/AT blade. A member of my family bought it for me after I built some melamine shelving into their closets. I had voiced similar complaints about my CS blades cutting the melamine. I think it goes for around $90+, but the resultant edge is excellent. Just like their TS blades.

You may also find that if you use the smartguide with a "normal" blade and the edge insert, you'll get a nice very nice finish too.

[Dave Falkenstein]

Whenever I need a clean cut with my PC Saw Boss, I mount a Forrest WW II blade that I bought a few years ago. It cost almost as much as the saw, but it does cut cleanly. BTW, it is a full kerf blade, too. For an even better cut (and for even more money), I am the proud owner of a Festool plunge circular saw and guide rail. This saw cuts with absolutely no chipout, and with perfect precision - worth every penny, IMHO.