Waterlox

[Jim Tobias]

I have used a lot of finishes but have not tried.Waterlox. A few recent threads have had some positive things to say about it so I want to give it a try on a few small projects. The can I have purchased is the Original Sealer/Finish.
Questions:
1-If I want to rub it out to a different sheen...how long?
2-Can it be sanded in as you might do with Danish Oil or Antique Oil Finish?
3- Can it go directly over fillers? Waterbased or other fillers?
4 -Any other advice?
I know it stinks and that I need to follow good respiration practices ( I never go in shop without appropriate mask for the task (too many sinus/allergy issues).

Thanks
Jim


298544

[Mike Gresham]

Pay strict attention to the warning about getting air out of the can. Once you use about a quarter of the can, it can turn to jello in short order (a few weeks). I have used Bloxygen (sp) with some success, but the can used for original makes that a little difficult. The regular style can used for satin works much better. I've thought putting it in a wine bottle and pumping out the air, but worry the rubber stoppers would stuck or be attacked by the Waterlox.

Curing time is a moving target. The more oxygen available, the faster it cures. I always gave mine 2 days before sanding between coats, but never tried rubbing it out. I like a satin finish and didn't want to wait 60 days to see how the final sheen developed on original.

[Stan Calow]

Jim I found the information on their website give you a pretty good discussion of options on achieving the sheen you want. I note that they do not recommend sanding between first coats. Not sure about sanding in, but WL will build a film, so not sure what sanding in would do for you.

[Bob Wingard]

I just open the valve on a propane torch and dump some gas into the can ... heavier than air ... displaces air, keeping it from going bad in the can ... +CHEAP !!!

[George Gibbs]

2 pieces of scrap wood, 2 C-clamps, smush the can until the finish is at the spout. Not pretty but it works.

[Kent A Bathurst]

2 pieces of scrap wood, 2 C-clamps, smush the can until the finish is at the spout. Not pretty but it works.

OK - that is a winner. I will have to try it.

[Bill McNiel]

Jim,
I use Waterlox and yes it can be rubbed out to whatever sheen you prefer. I usually wait atleast 3 - 4 weeks for it to cure enough for a proper rub-out. I have used Micro-Mesh, steel wool and sandpaper depending on the sheen the client wants.

I have never tried to "sand it in" but have used a satin finish technique that involves rubbing it in with steel wool and wiping off the excess (some consider this a waste of an expensive finish)

I have used it over pore fillers and waterbased stains on Mahagony with no issues.

Oxygen is the key to curing more than temperature.

Hope this helps - PM me if you want more info. Also check for previous threads on Waterlox.

[Howard Acheson]

I use Waterlox Original Varnish frequently. It's a pretty standard oil based varnish. It takes 2-3 days to become tack free and 3-4 weeks to cure. If you want to rub out the finish, wait 4-6 weeks.

No, it's not a good technique to "sand in" the finish. That's a technique best used with oil/varnish products like Watco or Minwax Tung Oil Finish. Waterlox is a film forming varnish.